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vmaxept

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Everything posted by vmaxept

  1. I would guess contamination. Like dirt or other 'crap'. Could be mold - that is black and soft. I would take it back to the LHBS. I would request a replacement with a 'clean' pack I doubt I would use it. r
  2. Planning on this recipe for next week. Another Original MRB OVl with UME and LME Will use the washed OVl Wyeast for the third time. 2.25 Gal MRB OVL 1 can 1.21# 1.25 pnd Munich LME 1 can MRB Creamy Brown UME 1.21# Steep Grain SPL-B 1 to 2 oz ? or maybe more? Hops Hallertau .25ox for 30 min Hallertau .25 for 5 min Reason for the steep grain, I have allot of crushed steeping grains I need to use. The yeast W 2633 should be good to pitch. I have about a 1 inch layer. Then maybe a simple starter? I have not tried one yet. I have an open bag of the TBM Canadian Red, I guess I could use a few oz of that for the starter? Qbrew has the OG at 1.056 and the IBU at 24. I could bump up the vol to 2.5 g. For more beer and a lower ABV. Thoughts comments? RR
  3. Here is a steam recipe using original MRB HME STEAMY BLONDE ALE STEAMER American Blonde Ale HME 1 can 1.21 pnds Coopers Light LME 2pnds .75 oz Northern Brewer 9.6% for 30 min .50 oz Northern Brewer 9.6% for 15 min .25 oz Northern Brewer 9.6% for 7 min dry hop .5 oz of No.Brewer after a week Pitched 11.5g of Saflager W-34/70 Lager Yeast Dry Pitch 60* OG 1.051 Ferment at 65 for 25 days BOTTLED 8qt FG 1.014 TEST 3/18 Very hoppy Earthy aroma. Bitter but smooth. little afterbite very smooth. Nice mouth feel Not high carb level Make again with less hops. Another one, not quite ready MRB Classic Blonde Ale + Pale Ale Export Cassy Steamy Blonde A CA Common Steamer MRB CABA MRB Pale Ale UME Yeast Lager S23 rehydrated OG 1.040 HOPS First time fresh hops. Casscade Dried 2 days 2.9 oz Schedule 1/2 hops In fruit bag. 1/2 gal water with 1/2 can UME 20 min Second hop addition. Shut of flame Open bag add balance of hops Add bal UME Add 1/2 gal water Flame on At boil start timer 10 min Remove hop sack place in colander over second pot to drain Pressed hops sack to get balance of wort from hops. Added to keg Ferment 21 days at 60-62 a bit too cool for a true steamer CC 10/14 Bottle 10/15 FG 1.012 45* 9qts PRIME 73.5g booster ABV 3.8% Very good, not too bitter, but hoppy aroma and flavor. Smooth sort of malt sweet? READY Next Steamer I will brew at 68-70*
  4. Just a little followup on 'how I condition a lager' After batch prime bottling; Carb at around 64 for one week Cold lager at 50 fermentation temp, for 4 to 6 weeks. Deep cold lager condition at normal fridge temp 35 to 40 for a month or longer. I start drinking during this phase. I have a large lager pipeline that I can 'let them age'
  5. Dave nice you got a real lager finished. It will get better with the longer cold lager time (50* or so). I had a few that were 6 months old,. OFVL, very smooth softer with time and a noticeable change in the taste. Even 3 of the new CMRB Lagers brewed as lagers with lager yeast are quite good. Light but good. Last CMRB lager due for taste 11/5 My process is the same for all of them.
  6. BK Yep about the best homebrew beer forum you can find. Been here since Feb 2011. Coming up on 2 years. I learned how to make great beer. The other 2 forums are OK. HBT has issues with extract brewers that come from cans. I read more then post. The MRBeerFans is OK but I like it here. I have given some of my brews to real hardcore craftbrew drinkers. Most of the responses are 'OMG this is great beer'. After you brew some advanced recipes, pass a few to your 'beer snobs' buddies. There are a few on this forum that have 'placed ' in beer judging contests with 'all extract' recipes. I am one who really likes extract brewing. It is easy, less work, less equipment thus less cost. I have advanced to hop additions with LME/DME. I just recently started with steep grains. I doubt I will move to AG or 5 gal batches. Hope you continue to brew and enjoy your HB.
  7. I have tried to add honey at FO, fermentation +7 days and at batch prime, no honey taste that I can determine. My latest attempt for honey flavor was steeped honey malt, added to my WWW+Wheat UME recipe. To be bottled on Fri. Sure smelled and tasted great when I filled the LBK. Will know more on Fri and after it conditions.
  8. Wen, I would recommend you let it ride for a full 2 weeks. The MRB directions on that point are a bit short. The beer is really NOT done yet. 2 weeks is about right. Many of us go 3 weeks. This allows time for the yeast to clean up the junk remaining in the beer. After you bottle it wait at least 2 weeks, 3 is better. Then put on eor 2 in the fridge for a few days. You made beer for sure. The hard part is the wait. Welcome and enjoy the hobby
  9. I only need a small mill to crush a few oz of steep grains and maybe a pound of 2 row for a micro mash. So the big crusher is over-kill for me, and costly. Extract and steep brewing is enough for me. No desire to go AG.
  10. I am going to buy one of these http://www.discounttommy.com/p-189-premium-cast-iron-corn-grinder-for-wheat-grains-or-use-as-a-nut-mill.aspx http://www.walmart.com/ip/Weston-Cereal-and-Multi-Grain-Mill/14223932 Both will do the job for less then $30
  11. Hey Joe Looks like my comments posted to your thread was lost in the turb Here is your post on 8g Co2 and my comments http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/12-community-drain-pipe/291462-calling-all-8-gram-co2-cartridges TAD systems is working great for me. I looked into the PP but felt the system and cost was more then I wanted. There is a link someplace? on Utube for a CO2 system using a paintball cyl. Looks like a good setup but not for me at this time. I have 2 TAD kegs. Need another for my third M/C Home draft tap. For now the CO2 cartridges work for me. Doubt I will ever go the real keg route.
  12. First welcome hope you enjoy the homebrew hobby. You can make GREAT beer. Ok heater. I used the waterproof floor foot warmer pads and dog bed warmers. You can also get the heat pads used for plants. All safe low wattage. I put the pad under the keg - heat rises. I placed the keg on small strips of wood to get it off direct contact with the heat pad. Cover with a towel. Use a probe temp gauge on top of the LBK . I adjusted the temp buy changing out the wood block thickness - higher or lower. If you stick with it and get more kegs, You can use the spare room closet with a small oil filled heater or ceramic heater. As long as the heater device has an adjustable thermostat, you can control the temp. To monitor the temp of the keg you can use the stick on strip gauges. I prefer a digital probe gauge. I also have an IR Temp gun. Easy and quick to use and not too expensive Then later you can build a nice multi-keg fermentation chamber from thick foam blocks/boards. Also low cost and easy to build Enjoy your beer.
  13. Yes, thats the one. I will use the bags until they leak, which is the issue. They work better in the freezer. Bags are really cheap. You can also buy the better ZIP-LOCk Vac bags but the Reynolds pump does not match the sealing valve. It will work but you have to mess around with it. As long as I can find the bags made for this pump I will use it. Seal A Meal is in the future.
  14. I found a Reynolds vac bag sealer at a junk Sundry store for $5. It was new with 3 QT bags. I have wanted a better means of sealing the open hop bags and the steep grain bags. A seal a meal would be nice but did not want to spend the money now. I read in many forums this Reynolds system did not work very well. I have used 2 bags to seal the hops bags. I place the opened hop bag, taped shut to prevent spillage, in the vac bag and pull the vac. So far it is working great, Easy to open and reseal. I store the hops in the freezer. This device is no longer manufactured, but many are around on Ebay. Low cost bags QT and Gal are on Ebay. I will buy a qty of qt and gal bags soon. I have not tried it with the steep grains. They are reusable as long as they will seal and do not leak. Sure not as nice as the SealA-Meal but it was great for the price and it works better then plain zip lock bags.
  15. You know how hops and steep grains bits escape from the hop sack and the steep grain bag/ or you drop hops commando style. I wanted to remove this junk from the wort. Especially if I planned on washing the yeast. I did not want this junk in the turb bed. I found this very fine SS small stainer at Walmart http://www.walmart.com/ip/Oneida-4-Mesh-Strainer/15149536 I use this to mix the wort during the cooling process. Sweep the strainer around in the wort gathering the floaters. I tap the stainer on the side of the sink or a sanitized pan/bowl to clear the junk. I keep swirling around in the wort until the strainer is not gathering the bits. By that time the wort is about ready to pour in the LBK. This action of swirling the wort though the strainer adds lots of O2. Doubt this would work well for a 5 gal batch but for the LBK batch it worked great. Of course this would not apply to post ferment dry hoping. But then I might try using it strain out the junk in the turb that has been mixed with water during the prep for washing. I doubt it would filter out the yeast? R
  16. If it has been in the LBK for less then 7 days, I would try this, Heat up about 8 oz or more of honey in the microwave Open keg, dump in. Using a sanitized long spoon, mix very slow, try not to hit the bottom and mix-up the turb. Wont give you and body but will bump the ABV. I have added honey that way. Then, I did read a post ?? to add about 8 oz LME, just heat in microwave on low. Dump and mix. One of the CMRB LME packs should work great. Both additions will start a small second fermentation. I would try the LME if you have it. Then, 4-8 oz DME dissolved in about 8 oz hot water around 180* should work also no boil needed Insure the pot, cup,spoon has been cleaned and sanitized. I have never tossed a recipe in 67 brews, they can be 'fixed'.. even the TBM recipes
  17. J You actually have made a 'steam' lager. Brewing with lager yeast close to 60*f or higher. Steam or Ca-Common recipes are very good. There is a difference in the flavors imparted by the yeast at higher temps. I believe most lager yeasts like to ferment at lower temps. They brew cleaner. I have made 8 lager recipes using S23 w34/70 and Wyeast OctFest. The process I use is from this forum, Palmer-How to Brew and other sources. Ferment around 50*f for 25 days 2-day D-rest at 60-66*f Cold crash 2 days Bottle Carbonation for 1 week at room temp -not over70*f Condition lager- at 50*f for 4 weeks to xx months. The longer the better. I no longer take SG readings during the process. Loss of beer and risk of contamination if I pour the sample back in the LBK. This protocol has worked great for me. I would let your current recipe continue as-is in the fridge.
  18. Read these threads http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/20-advanced-recipes/290650-adding-oatmeal-to-my-mr-beer-stout http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/18-advanced-brewing-techniques/290529-help-with-ag-recipe-does-this-look-ok Great advice in both R
  19. Sticky WS is quite good as is. I used S-04 for all the Porters and Stouts Steep grains. I would weigh the grains and not measure. I will guess 3 cups is way too much I have a BTP on deck. 1 BTP (can) 1# DARK DME 2 oz Choc Malt 2 oz Black Pat Malt Not sure I would add the roasted barley. It will be quite bitter. Unless you dropped to 1 oz each. It is used in Irish Stouts. So it might be OK for your recipe. I am adding a small hop boil Fuggles .25oz@30m and .25oz@15m Look for another thread on AG Porter or Stout for more advice, I cannot find it now I look to a few malt grain sites for descriptions as well as the NB catalog. Might consider adding a few oz of flaked oatmeal, roasted. There is a good thread on this also. I have 6 cans of SWOS to brew later, might use your final recipe
  20. Sorry my error. I thought it was 1:1 for balance . I should check the charts before I posted that . Yep that's what I wanted. Sort of a shot at Stone Arrogant Bastard Ale When I first ran this I had OG of .042 and IBU at 65 or so. Tinkered around with the recipe ended up with 61 : 61 Sure smelled great. Getting better at the steep grain process. Tried some hop addition variations. The process was from BYO Mag First drop was done before the boil started around 180* Last addition at 7 min lowered to slow boil then FO at 5 with temp around 180* First addition extracts the oils at a different rate . The last addition extracts the aroma without the boil off. Just experimenting to make it fun. The long wait to find out.
  21. OK the letter names are not the best. Original MRB. Cowboy Golden Lager I guess that should be CGL. That is my base HME. Muntons Gold a common ale yeast Steeping Grains CaraPils Crystal 90L Should clear up the confusion.?
  22. This has been mentioned before. I filled the SL with One-step , shook it around some and placed on the counter. It hit a little more the normal but not a hard drop, just a bump. I noted water on the the counter. Yep- small crack at one corner. Tossed the SL. I have an older LBK with the top lip cracked. I was not using this for brewing ( Have 4 going) I installed the new spigot. Cut a small section of tubing about 1 inch long placed over the bottling wand and the spigot. Worked great for batch prime. No more slimline for me A LBK is better then the SL as stronger plastic and a good price.
  23. No response?.. well its a moot point. The beer is brewing with vigor. I re-worked Qbrew, looks like this is a balanced beer. NOT what I wanted I wanted this to be Chinook Hop heavy. IUB 61 OG 61. Should be a nice beer anyway.
  24. I put this one in the LBK today 1 MRB CBGL HME 1# Amber DME 1# Sparking AMBER DME Filled to QUART line 9 qts plus OF 1.062 A bigger recipe then I wanted. I did a 30 min steep at 165* 4 oz Cara-pils 4 oz C90L Hops Chinook .5@30m .25@15m .25@7m I use one pkt Muntons Gold yeast hydrated. That is 6g. I did add a pkt of the old MRB yeast at FO. I am not sure IF I should add another pkt of dry yeast?
  25. Cold crashing drops the suspended junk to the bottom and sets the turb into a more solid mass. With batch priming there is no turb bottle. I drain the LBK by tipping the keg forward very slowly. I get a slight bit of turb in the slim-line. That is then mixed well with the priming sugar. The turb settles out in the bottles, I get a slight turb in each bottle.
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