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vmaxept

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Everything posted by vmaxept

  1. Bottled this lager today. I brewed this with the 'first' yeast washing of W2633. Made 8 oz over 8qt. Quite nice. Had slight malt aroma, malt taste, some hop aftertaste. Smooth BUT it was lite and thin. As a few of the other new Basic recipes. It was smooth and easy drinking. I am giving one bottle 4 weeks to condition . As with all my lagers I carb at 68-70 for a week then cold condition at 50 for at least a month. Not all that bad, and it was from the costly yeast ,now priced in half. I thought , why not go again. I now have 4 jars of second gen washed yeast in the fridge. The process went better this time. Not sure when I will brew another German style lager. I think this will be a nice lite good Brav lager beer. Will know later IF I would brew it again.
  2. vmaxept

    C-MRB Stout

    Just another followup on this. As it ages it is getting better. I am going to try and let some age for a few months. Next time I brew this -when I get one on sale- I will add some dark malt and some steep grains.
  3. Made this different reciope today. MRB CA Blonde Ale HME MRB Pale Export UME Yeast re-hydrated s23 Hops Fresh hops Casscade. 5.9 oz wet. Dried for 3 days 2.9 oz bag of hop cones. I first used 1/2 gal water and 1/2 can UME. Heated water and added UME. Split hops. Filled a large fruit bag. Dropped in wort, noted there was not going to be enough water, added 1/2 gal. I used a different process, hops in water as it heated. When the boil started, set the timer for 20 min Read about doing the hops at the beginning of the boil ?? I think BYO. At 20min. flame out, opened fruit bag, added balance of hops, added balance of UME. Flame on Set time to 10 min when the boil started. Remove bag full of hop cones, placed in clean colander over a small pot to drain. Added HME Ice bath cooling When the bag of hot hops was cool enough, I squeesed the hops to tremove as much wort as I could, add to the main pot. I over cooled the wort to 56. Filled LBK covered with dark towel and set outside in the sun to warm up some Re-hydrated the yeast and cooled to 60. When wort was at 60, pitched yeast. Placed keg in 'ale' freezer set to 60*f. Should be interesting. Will be beer, will be a CA Common steam and should be hoppy? Based on the aroma of the boil. I have no idea about AA and IBU. Dont really care A good experince with fresh hops. I might be obtaining more. Now to wait for 21 days. Some picture Half the hops [attachment=8941]100_04911.jpg[/attachment] Balance [attachment=8943]100_04941.jpg[/attachment] All the hops in the boil . Not the yellow green 'stuff' floating in the boil, should be the lupine ?
  4. Yes. Read the side of the can of malt. Directions are there.
  5. Have used both Muntons yeast. I use the GOLD based on opinions it will attenuate better the then the basic pkt. I normally use the GOLD for Eng style, brown, red, dark, or I use S04. My results have been acceptable.
  6. I always cold crash. Depending on the recipe I CC for 2 to 4 days. I have not noted any hop 'grass' flavor from the beer that was dry hopped. I normally do not use a hop sack for DH. Thinking about how to remove the hop particles from the turb for yeast washing. I could try to filter the turb. Mix with the sterile water and pour though a fine mesh stainer? Should capture the hops and let the yeast pass though. Filter cloth might filter out the yeast cells. ???
  7. Good info. Did not read about breaking the cones to leaves. They are all over a large screen I found in the barn. Cleaned well of course. I will crumble then tomorrow. I read a long thread on the MRB FANS forum about using whole hops. I will re-check the ratio to use. I plan on using as flavor and aroma not bittering so AA is not significant. Although I can get some bittering from a 30 min boil. Might drop it to 20 and 5. Have to read more. This load was cheap $3. I am going to trade some beer for what ever they have. They have 2 vines full AND they are not brewing beer, so they have no use for them. They planned on brewing this summer/fall. They wanted to go AG from the start. I suggested a MRB setup and brew extract small batches at first. I told them I would be glad to come over and help them with the first brew. Looks like I will brewing a few Cascade based PA and IPA ales next month.
  8. I found a local source of off the vine fresh hops. I have 6 oz of Cascade cones. Never used fresh hops. I did a number of searches on various forums and sites. I plan on using this bag this weekend. The bag is 5.9 oz I have them spread out over paper towels to dry some and not get rotten. I read I have to use 5oz fresh hops cones to 1 oz pellets. So I have enough to make a nice flavor and aroma boil. I am brewing MRB Blonde Ale and Pale Export UME. I plan on half of the cones for a 30 min boil in half the UME with a gal of water. The second half in a 10 min boil. Late addition of the balance of the UME and water to the gal mark. I have a large fruit bag that will hold them all. Thought about dumping the hops in the boil but I do not have a large stainer I think I will make this as CA Common Steamer using S-23 yeast. Ferment at around 60-64 for 3 weeks. I have no clue how this will turn out. Its an experiment. It will be beer - I guess a good hop beer. I will be able to get another load next week maybe a pound or more. After I dry them I will pack in heavy zip lock bags press out the air as best I can and -tape the seal then double bag. I do not have a seal a meal yet. Plan to store in the freezer. The person will give me a cutting rhizome in the spring. I will try to grow some. The room sure does have a nice Cascade hoppy smell. This hobby never stops - always something new.
  9. I also use a 'block of ice' added to the hot wort. I 'almost' freeze a full gal jug. I use another half gal for the heat/boil and add half gal in the LBK. I place the hot pot in the sink with water and ice cubes. sanitize the outside of the 'frozen' jug of water, cut off the bottom with clean knife, let water drain into the wort, then ease the ice block into the wort. I get the wort temp under 70. Pour wort in LBK. If the temp of the wort is over 68 based on the temp probe in the lid, I place the LBK in the sink of cold ice water for what ever time it takes to drop temp to around 68. I normally can cool the wort to pitch temp in about 15 to 20 minutes. If doing a lager I reduce the wort temp to around 55-60 before I pitch the yeast. Now that I am rehydrating dry yeast, I float the small bottle with the yeast slurry in the ice batch to match the temp of the wort.
  10. I store some of my beer at the conditioning temp of about 68. I use the large ale JC controlled freezer, if not full of LBkegs I have a full under house cement slab The avg temp during the summer is 66 to 70. Cement temp is 66 on avg. I carb/condition most of my ales on the slab. I move then around from the aging side to the drinking side. I move a few at a time to the kitchen fridge for a few days before drinking. I store the lagers in the lager fridge at 50*. Its just me, I prefer not to let the finished beer get warmer then the conditioning temp
  11. First taste test today. The new CMRB Stout. Not Bad. Actually I really like this one. Not sweet, some chocolate ? , Good bitter hop after taste or the bitter from the roasted malts. Not a full body Stout. At 3% ABV I can drink many without getting buzzed. OG was 1.034 FG 1.013. Did not attenuate enough. But its OK. Good stout taste. Will brew again with added DME and ?? Might try a different yeast like S-04 (When I can get the recipe on sale) [attachment=8889]CMRBStout11.jpg[/attachment]
  12. Agree. For all my lagers, I used the conditioning temp of 65*f. I only condition at that temp for 2 weeks, then move to the lager fridge- at 48-52*f for about 2 months. I have 1 lager drinking. 6 months old. 2- in the bottle lagering stage 2 in the LBK. these are 2 of the new 'lager' recipes using the washed yeast. I tend to use the upper end of the prime scale for style . I had a few that were under-carbed.
  13. I have brewed 2 Cowboy Golder lager (ale) with an assortment of LME/DME and hops. I call then Hop Along Cowboy 1 and 2. I posted about Nr 2, IBU 97 OG .040, like way off the chart. Actually someone ? posted it was like 107 IBU. BUT it was so good. I just finished the last one today. SO, have to make another version, I have not finalized it. I really liked Arrogant Bastard Ale by Stone, so here is my recipe For your comments Arrogant Hop Along Cowboy 3 MRB CBGL NRB Creamy Brown UME Amber DME 1 pnd Recipe est OG .059 Hops Chinook .75 oz 35 min Chinook .25oz 10 min This gave me a IBU of 58 Add CBGL in Qbrew total hops IBU 71 Yes off the chart. But there may be enough malt backbone for this one. SRM - yes dark 29 Est ABV 5.2% That is about as strong as I care to make my beer. I really like ABV 4 to 5% YEAST was thinking about Muntons Gold? I have US05, Coopers and fromundra (both old and new) and Lager S23 Plan on making this next week.
  14. Brewed this today. Almost straight up. I used the ' sort of washed' S23 yeast from the CMRB Grand Czech Pils Lager. This is really another yeast washing experiment. Hit OG 1.036 Since I am gong for a real lager, I will ferment it for 21 to 25 days plus 2 days D-Rest so this one will be in process for a long time. I have brewed all 3 of the new CMRB Basic 'Lager' recipes as lagers. It has a nice aroma. Hope it turns out
  15. Pix of the S23 yeast after initial washing Good yeast is under the yellow water. I think one jar has quite a good layer of yeast while the other has a thin layer with more turb. [attachment=8825]P10100011.jpg[/attachment] The good yeast is in the jar on the right ? Left jar has some but looks like some turn on top? Going to use it anyway Going to use this to brew the CMRB Patriot Lager as a lager.
  16. Ok Good all is not lost. I have 2 small jars in the fridge. Almost dumped them. Will let them sit for a few days then try to make a starter out of one. Will try again using the different process you use.
  17. Ok video review again. Yep I did it wrong --again. Got it now- the bottom layer in my picture is TURB, all that top layer had the yeast floating but not settled out in 48 hrs. That was what I wanted to pour into the small jars. I will dump it all and try again with the next batch. This had been a Senior DUH moment for me
  18. I guess I messed this one up also. SB says the yeast is the WHITE creamy layer. According to his pictures, the yeast should be on the bottom. The pix is 24 hrs in the fridge. I watched the video a few times but I must have missed something. Today 48 hrs in the fridge, I drained off all the top yellow water, mixed the creamy white bottom with water and poured into the small jars. Sooo, it appears the yeast was in the TOP larger layer and the bottom layer was old DOA yeast cake and turb. I thought I did it right this time. Sure dont understand why I am making this so difficult There seems to be a few 'different' procedures and methods. SB says the yeast is the white creamy layer and he shows it in the pictures. KZ and IL - you tell me the yeast was/is in the suspension ABOVE that white bottom layer. It looked like caked turb to me, so I suspect I dumped all the yeast down the drain and now have 2 jars full of turb water and almost no yeast I might try making a starter just for the heck of it to see if there is any yeast in the small jars. Good thing I dont have allot invested in this experiment I mean, S23 lager yeast, just buy another pkt Now to read about making a starter on the easy.
  19. Mixed water in LBK transferred to the big jug. I did not let the mix settle in the keg. I am going to pour off the top layer then divide the bottom layer into 3 small jars with boiled cooled water. If my first messed up attempt worked, (I got beer brewing), then this one should work Tnx
  20. After messing around with the first batch, I am trying again. Pictures of the new try. S-23 from a CRMB Grand Boh Lager. The yeast is on the bottom, right? The white layer. So I pour off all the top liquid and split the bottom slurry into 2 or 3 small jars. So where is the turb layer? Floating above the yeast.? Once in the small jars, the yeast settles again. Pour off the water and pitch the slurry. Do not plan on making a starter. I plan on using this yeast with the CMRB American Lager recipe. [attachment=8796]P10100041.jpg[/attachment] [attachment=8797]P10100071.jpg[/attachment]
  21. Ok the Borg has voted Will pitch the Cooper fromundra 5g. Might brew one of these today. As usual thanks for the advice.
  22. Ok the steeping grains at 4 oz ea should be great. Yes they will darken the light DME and offer some flavor. Sounds good to me, should be a nice recipe. I really have to try some steep grains.
  23. I would use S05 yeast. I sure like the old OFVL. I have one in the bottle lagering with 2 OFVL HME and 1 pnd Munich LME. If you try to ferment on the low end of US05 like 60 you get a nice 'lager like' ale. I have not steeped any grains, just reading. The 1/2 of you steep grains might be a bit high. Many recipes I read use 2 to 4 oz. I would use an amber or dark DME
  24. "myndflyte" post=284057 said:I've brewed MB recipes using 1 2g yeast packet. 5g should be fine I would think. Yes, it can be done that way,and you get beer. The recommendation of this forum- the Borg, is to use at least 2 MRB 2g yeast pkts. For recipes with more malt use 3 pkts. Problem is with under-pitching. Under attenuation and maybe some of the off flavors. The recommendation is based on science. I think there is a web site MRMALTY?? that addresses the yeast pitch rate for a give recipe. I have not been there though. Since the first 4 or 5 recipes I brewed last year, I use 3 of the 2g pkts. Unless I use another dry yeast like Us-05. That is 11g. I might brew one of the new craft recipes with fromundra yeast, but I will brew the other 3 with a selected dry or maybe a Wyeast Liquid I always re-hydrate dry yeast. Just my opinion and the way I brew
  25. I have the new Craft recipes. 2.68# Question Is the 5g yeast pkt going to be adequate? We (I) always used at least 3 (6g) of the fromundra yeast with the old recipes of HME+UME/DME?LME That came up to about 2.4# malt This yeast, the new fromunder the lid,is Cooper Ale? Generic general purpose. It is in a gold pkt vs the Basic silver pkt of the same weight? Is it the same yeast? There is a extra 'code' on the gold pkt "IM" I think I need to use more yeast. I wounder how it would work if I used the Cooper 5g and add the old MRB 2g? It is thought the MRB yeast is S33. I doubt there would be any impact on the beer? Two different yeast stains, not so good I guess. Cannot buy the new yeast pkts from CMRB yet. They only sell the old yeast. I might opt for using US-05 I do not plan on brewing any of these for a week or so. What does the Borg think?
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