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vmaxept

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Posts posted by vmaxept


  1. "ba1980" post=284018 said:

    What is the best way to split it between 2 lbks? Do I measure it out or do I dump the wort directly into the lbk and hope my guesstimate is right?

    I mark the side of the can. Trying to pour off into a large cup is real messy.

    If you are using DME and no hops, then heat the water to almost boil add the DME stir until dissolved then,
    Pour the HME in to the hot water (NOT the keg)

    Just eyeball it.

    Cover the can with plastic wrap and a rubber band. Store in fridge for the next batch.

    If you use LME add both to the hot water at the same time. No boil is needed if you are not adding hops. I heat water to almost a boil temp 210*

    These cans are hopped for 5 gal with the addition of 2 pds of LME/DME or sugar.
    For the LBK at 2.4 gal, I would add 1.5pnd DME or one pnd LME to half a can of the HME.


  2. Might as well jump on the bandwagon.
    I brewed all the new CMRB Basic recipes expect the Patriot Lager. That is 11 new recipes in the keg, in the bottle or gone. I brewed all 'as is' expect the lagers where I used lager yeast.

    What I found was to use just 2 gallons of water. No top off. Even the water used to rehydrate the yeast comes out of the 2 gal. When I batch prime I use FG sample and about a cup of 'beer' to dissolve the sugar or booster. So NO extra added water. That trick really helped to improve the FG and quality of the final beer.


    I doubt I will buy the BASIC recipes and add 'stuff' at list price. Just a cost issue.
    If I can buy the BASIC on sale then I might consider that option.

    So far the only recipes I would consider are Bav-Wiess, American Porter, American Ale.
    Stout is ready next week, Grand Boh Pils in the bottle, OFVL in the LBK

    The 4 Craft Recipes, at the sales prices with 'legal' discounts was a good deal.
    I plan on brewing as is. Since they are all ales, I would not brew any as a lager. I might consider using a different Ale yeast, one that is style appropriate vs the generic Coopers yeast.

    The new Deluxe recipes with the Basic plus 8.81 oz LME, is a cost issue. Sure can buy DME/LME for a lot less. 2x as much for the same price.
    For $22 I should be able buy DME/LME/Hops/yeast for less or a bit more for a 5 gal extract steep recipe.

    The advantage is, it is quick and simple to brew that will be better then the Basic recipes.

    I am looking forward to the 4 craft recipes.


  3. OFVL is suppose to be malty.
    Adding 1/4 to 1/2 oz of a Nobel Hop would add to flavor or aroma.

    If you wanted a hop boil I would pick one for a 15 min or less boil.

    Until more of us brew this new recipe, we will not know 'what' it might need to make improvements.
    I have the CMRB OFVL in the keg 'as is' but used lager yeast.

    Adding the LME will increase the malty-ness and body . But 8.81 oz is not much.

    If I added a full pnd, then I would do a flavor aroma hop boil.

    I think I would pass on the hops this time.

    R


  4. WE GOT KRAUSEN How do the texter say it OMG WTF :)

    I pitched ALL the washed yeast in the 2 gal CMRB OFVL. I guess at least 3 oz of slurry.
    Pitched about 4 pm, it is now 10:30. I have krausen foam up to the lid. Fermenting wild.
    I pitched at 62* both yeast and wort were the same temp. Let the keg sit for 1/2 hr then moved to the lager fridge at 50*

    Sure did not expect this.


    KZ- guess I made this process more complicated then it is. :)
    If I do it again, I wont decanter more then 2 times. Will follow your advice.

    So I guess I should harvest it again? I am going to ferment this for 21 to 25 days. Do the D-Rest for 2. Cold crash 2 days and bottle. Should be interesting how this turns out.


  5. Thanks SB

    Crap , I was trying to pour off JUST the white creamy yeast layer from the top of the turb.
    I thought it was a 'bad' thing to use the old dead turb as in the yeast cake.

    Also I should have left it in the fridge longer then a few days ? Then the turb would cake solid.

    I tried to only use the lower yeast layer from the large jar, poured off the water/beer then transfered to the small jars.

    If I do this again ? I would pour off the water-beer from the large jar, mix the yeast-turb and then transfer to the small jars. I left allot of good yeast in the big jug.

    I really doubt I would do a stater, just pitch all the salvaged yeast from all the jars. Maybe later.

    For now back to re-hydrated dry yeast :) at least you got me doing that the right way, sure does help getting the yeast to work faster.
    Thanks


  6. I tried to do this yeast washing re-use process.

    I brewed an OVL using W2633.
    I wanted to try the wash-repitch with this yeast in the new CMRB OVL.

    I think it was a bust.

    After the bottling was complete I cleaned the area and readied for the wash process.

    Boiled water gal.
    Sanitized the bottles and jug.

    Pot was not large enough to hold the jars and the jug. So I just soaked with SS drained inverted on a sanitized surface to drain.

    Once water was cooled in an ice bath I filled the large jug 3L 3/4, poured in the LBK. Mixed well and poured the turb/yeast into the large jug.

    Covered with SS sprayed plastic wrap, secure with rubber band. Placed in fridge.
    2 days later jug looked like the pictures I found on the forum etc.

    I poured off the 'beer-water'.

    Filled the small jars half way with boiled cooled water.

    Tried to pour the yeast -creamy white layer in the jars, trying to get an equal pour in all 3.
    That was where it went bad.
    The bottom layer - turb- mixed with the yeast. The yeast layer was thick and did not pour well. I tried to retain as much of the turb in the large jug but over half ended in the small jars.

    Mixed each jar well. covered and back to the fridge.

    2 days later - poured off the water-beer layer and tried to transfer the yeast layer to a new clean jar with boiled water. Trying to get rid of the bottom turb layer. Same problem thick yeast and turb mixed together.

    I decided to transfer all jars (yeast layer ) to one jar. Sure did not work a seen in the assorted videos. Yeast and turb mixed came out in a slurry. It was a real mess trying to only pour off the yeast layer.

    Back to the fridge. I am sure I lost a mess of yeast.

    One day later - today brew day. Since I was making a 2 gal recipe I planned on not trying a starter. I would use all the yeast I was able to salvage.
    Poured off the water layer . While I had a thicker layer of white creamy yeast, there was not way I was going to pour off the yeast without a good bit of the bottom layer. Poured into another clean cup.

    I used what I could and mixed with some of the wort, mixed and dumped in the keg. Rinse with more wort and dumped into the keg.

    I think I lost allot of good live yeast, but I was not able to separate the yeast from the crud.


    Keg is at 58/60*F, placed in the lager fridge (50), now wait and see if it starts to work in a day. I will bet this wont work.

    Not a real big loss if it fails. Of course I could just pitch a dry lager yeast if it fails to start.

    I am not sure I will do this again, just too much to deal with and junked up the fridge in the kitchen with all the jars.

    All my recipes to date have been made with dry yeast(with no problems). I now re-hydrate the dry yeast.

    I think for me I would just buy new a smack pack for each recipe.. The main purpose of this process is to save $7.00 ? I only brew 2 gal recipes.
    Not a big deal to me. I would prefer to spend the $7 and get new fresh yeast that will work, rather then mess around like I did this week and maybe mess up a recipe.

    I suspect my process was flawed.

    It was worth the try.
    Hope I made beer :)


  7. I just bottled a OVl real lager.
    2 cans OFVL HME
    1.5 pnd Munich LME

    It was malty as it should be. Not sure about it as I used Wyeast OVL.
    It is different. First time for liquid yeast and Munich LME.

    Will know in 5 weeks with a test bottle. Going for a long 2 month cold lager on this one.


    While back made this one;

    Octoberfest Vienna Lager
    Mellow Wheat UME

    HOPS

    Tettnang .5 oz 40 min
    .5 oz 30 min

    Hallertau .25 oz 10 min ( split over 3 drops- 10 / 8/ 5 min)

    Hallertau .25 oz dry hop ferment +7 days 2/23 CC 3/8

    BOTTLE 3/11
    FG 1.012 45* adj 1.0113 ABV 3.6

    Taste too hoppy for OVL. Some bitter not allot of malt. IBU 56
    A bit weak due to the 9 qt vol Have to see how it conditions. Might be a good summer light beer.

    Next OVL less or no hops, more malt LME

    9 qts 7 32oz pet 4 16oz pet

    READY 4/9

    4/10 taste great nice head
    4/22 so far getting better

    5/19 hops mellow more malt now better


    GONE


    It was good but too much aroma and flavor. These are the correct Nobel hops but way too much.
    Will brew another lager OFVL with just 0.5 oz Tett or Hallertau at 30 min.

    I suggest none of the hops you have are 'correct' for an OFVL. But then its you beer :)
    RR


  8. 1 2 oz

    2 Add at FO or could add some at +5 days in the keg either way. I made all my chocolate recipes with a flame out addition. I wanted the chocolate to be in the wort in suspension.


    3.. I only use vanilla extract - 2 oz at batch prime. Bottle prime - x 'drops' into each bottle, have no idea how many .
    Might be able to add the vanilla extract 3 or 4 days before bottling to the keg.


  9. New CMRB Porter. I posted about this in another thread.
    I liked it. A bit bitter, not thick, had good malt taste, nice head, a hop bitter aftertaste.
    I will brew this one again later.

    If you get it on sale for around $15 or less, add 1 pnd DME ( I would go with dark) No hops.
    I have made at least 4 chocolate based Porter/Stout

    Use about 2 to 3 oz pure choc -Hersey. Added 2 oz pure vanilla at batch prime bottle.
    I would NOT add sugar.

    When I brew this again I will amp it up some DME/Choc/ and or coffee and vanilla.
    Might consider 2 oz choc malt steep.

    Its a good basic recipe.


  10. Brewmasters WH in Atl Ga has a good selection. Flat ship $6.99. and no sales tax. Rebel Brewers is in TN so I get hit with shipping AND 10% sales tax.

    I have bought from Morebeer, Northern B, Midwest (shipping costs), Homebrewstuff, and of course MRB ( just posted another big order for the craft recipes and more..)


  11. The prices are going up :) $23 inc shipping.

    Now, I sort of liked the new Brav Wiess..
    I did not brew Witty M since I assumed I did not like wheat beer.
    I drank a bottle of WMW with mods from Inkleg, now that WAS GREAT.

    So, we need a recipe for extract/steep that might be close to WMW?

    Many whitbier on the assorted forums. Any suggested recipes?

    I have an ori WWW+Golden Wheat UME ready to brew after I get wheat yeast. I will add a small amount of hops based on other recipes I have found. I think it might be OK?


  12. Hi Nash
    Welcome.
    I started with MRB on this forum. I learned how to brew great MRB Extract beer from this forum.

    Joined the MRBFans a few months ago. Something to learn from both. Many on here are dual members.

    I have only brewed MRB and Muntons Gold all extract over the past year and a half. Planning on trying some extract/steep later.
    I bought a few large orders of the original MRB recipes. Looks like I will be brewing MRB for at least 6 months.

    Few of your recipes sound great.
    When you get it brewed post the recipe for the Porter Caramel. I might try that one.


  13. Yep do it all the time. I clean the LBK with Oxy soak for one day. If I do not have plans to brew for a few days, I fill with SS. On brew day pour to jugs and use to sanitize the equipment then brew. Good place to store SS and keep the kegs pure.
    I normally dump the SS mix after 2 uses.
    Have also used one-step stored in the keg for a few days.


  14. OK then you all talked me out of it :) Do not want to spend the money to go bigger.
    In my case smaller is better :)
    I really want to move to extract/steep brewing. Split the 5 gal recipes.

    Jeff- doing great. Few problems with the big truck. Major brake redo. Have not gone out with the horses for a few weeks.
    Looks like the beer class will be in Sept or Nov. That works better for me.

    Drank all your samples. Best one for me was the AAA mod. I am going to get the steep grains and try that one later. I have the ori MRB CGL and Creamy Brown UME.

    Wicked Monk 2 was very good. I really have not liked witbier. Nice citrus. Will have to brew this from other bases.

    Others were good also.

    Need your email for direct


  15. New from Northern.
    3 GAL BIAB
    I sort of thought this might be a worth-while try of AG?

    I would like to use my 3 gal pot for the boil. Problem , would not be able to run a full vol boil.

    I want to use the LBK. I could over fill but then will get blow off. So if I made a short batch like 2.5 gal, how bad would that be?

    The prices are not that great. Close to a 5 gal batch. More then a modified CMRB recipe.
    I was just 'thinking' about trying this.
    Do not want to invest in more equipment at this time. Might be more trouble then its worth?

    I have a good stock of the original MRB recipes to brew first.


  16. Hi and welcome. You have made beer, a great adventure awaits you :)

    As pev poster said , ferment for AT LEAST 2 WEEKS. Most new brewers will not wait 3 weeks. :)

    However, I have brewed ,most of the new Basic Recipes (8).
    I fermented for 2 weeks then Bottled. I bottle age/condition for 3 weeks min really like 4. Try one at 3 weeks. Condition at room temp preferable under 72.

    This recipe is really really LIGHT. I did not care for it. Not allot of flavor or hops... CMRB is correct it is a light beer.

    The PAV number on the hydrometer is for wine. The only scale we use for beer is the SG. 1.030 is about correct for this beer. This recipe will give you about 3.2% ABV

    I suggest not to use booster with this recipe. Booster is good to use with higher malt recipes. It adds noting but alcohol. It tends to thin out the beer thus less body in an already light beer.

    After you read about adding malt and ready to move on with recipes, you will have better tasting beer.

    Read the stickies at the top of each forum section.
    Try not to go wild and add 'stuff' to the recipe.
    Try all the new recipes 'as-is' first.
    I found the American Ale and the Brav Wiess to quite good.

    Enjoy your beer brewing.


  17. "packerduf" post=281592 said:

    Lacing occurs as a result of the bittering compounds linking proteins together. Regular dish-washing soap is petroleum-based and will leave an oily "invisible film" on your beer glasses. This film will quickly kill the head on a beer, and may affect the taste of the beer.

    Beer-glass cleaners can be purchased, but I have toyed with the idea of washing my beer glasses with One-Step and rinsing well. Any thoughts on this?

    Yes, all the time everytime. Once the glass is empty, I rinse the glass, add a pinch Oxy, fill glass let sit for a few hours, rinse very well with the sink sprayer. Drain dry and place in the fridge, NOT the freezer.

    I never use soap. Never use a wash cloth to clean the inside.


  18. Might be good beer. But I am concerned it might be similar to a few of the new basic recipes.
    So far the only one I thought was good is the Brav Wheat.
    The Stout and the Porter are in the bottle due out in a week or so.
    Grand Boh Pils is in the LBK as a lager, 2 weeks to go.
    The other 2 'lagers' OFL and American Lager are on the shelf. Will brew both as real lagers later.

    The cost surely is not worth it to me. Hope to be moving to extract/steep recipes in a few months. I have many old style MRB HME to brew. I found a great deal for 12 cans of ori HME/UME.

     I took advantage of the MRB 15% discount as well as the clearance prices. Bought three of the premium recipes and HCCD OFVL WWW HME.


  19. I have brewed 8 of the new CMRB HME.
    Drinking 5, aging 2 and one in the keg.
    I plan on a detailed write up some time.

    Summary, Mex, Am Lite, Can Blonde , ZIP NADA. Would not use these. Would not buy the base and add 'cost' that equates a 5 gal Extract recipe for the same price.

    Two are OK. Baviran Wies and American Ale. OK means not as bad as the others. I would brew these again when I can get them on sale. Quick and easy.
    But then so is the Munton one can extracts and the beer is great. These cost about $15 per LBK 2.5 gal.


     Stout and Porter are due the end of the month.
    The Bav Pils Lager is in the keg as a real lager with S-23. That one will be ready in a few months.

    Cost to vol and quality is not there for me.
    I scored a great buy on 12 cans of HME/UME ori MRB. Add that to my stock on hand, I will be brewing the original MRB for the next 5 months.

    When the current stock pile is depleted, I will start with extract kits and DIY extract/steep recipes. The time required to brew is not an issue for me.
    I can make a great 2.5 gal batch of beer for around $15 +/- .

    I looked at the new recipe kits. Price WAY over the top. I can brew a 5 gal extract for less then most of them.
    The new CMRB might work for the new brewer who wants to brew a few recipes of beer in the spare time. The price may not be an issue.

    The new products are not appealing to me.


  20. The last time I offered advice or MY opinion I got pushed back .. but I offer this advice anyway..

    Stouts are suppose to be malty.. per style. SWOS is good the way it is for bitterness.

     C hops you might like them but I used Northern and Fuggles.
    I agree you are well over hopped. Suggest 1 oz of one hop split over a boil.

    I would not do a bitterness boil but go with a flavor aroma addition
    Running Qbrew qt 2.13 gal I get OG 1.082

    With a big recipe high ABV you might want to overfill keg to the Q line for 2.4 gal. Gives you 9 qts of a strong beer.

     When you enter in Qbrew the weight of the MRB HME and UME is 1.21.

    2 SW HME is 2.42

    IBU with no hops added, is 17 (adding the SW HME under hops as 2oz for 5 min.) A bit low for the recommended 25 - 40

    1 Oz Fuggles 30min AA4.3 IBU 38.

    1/2 oz Fuggles 15min IBU 41.

    Other hops would be good. Look up other hops. I use BYO.com/resources.
    What do yo have on hand? I assume what you listed. I would not use either.

    Of course you might like a 'citrus' stout.

    I like US-04 for Porter/Stouts. But as mentioned, they got stuck.
    I have not tried a starter yet. I suspect you should.
    I might try that with my next stout.

    I am now at least rehydrating my dry yeast.
    Maybe all you need to do is re-hydrate a US05 or 04 pkt?

    Might want to consider a Wyeast smack pack. Maybe W1084.

    hydrometer reading - use the tube or a cyl used to float the hydrometer. NOT in the beer. Will surely contaminate it.

    Good luck you will get beer..


  21. Mashani
    I was looking for the Woodforde recipes but cannot find a good sale price.

    The Muntons I get from homebrewstuff for $28.99 plus flat rate ship $7.99. I bought 2 kits to cut ship costs. That make 4 LKB batches.
    If you find better sales on either post the link

    I made the IPA aand Stout both very good.
    Thanks
    R


  22. A billion here a billion there and soon its the national debit.

    I decided a while back to use a '5gal' yeast pkt for all my MRB recipes.
    IF I use MRB 2 gr yeast I use 3. I have a lot of these .. I use the older pkts for nutrient - dropped in hot wort at flame out.

    I have started to hydrate the dry yeast. I really did not see much difference. I will continue doing it just in case it helps get the yeast started quicker with less loss of cells.

    I have not messed with washing re-using. The cost of new yeast is not that big a deal for me. Most recipe I use the assorted dry yeasts.

    I used the high $ liquid Wyeast for my OFVL. I might try to reuse that. I guess I have to use it with a lager recipe? It is a Oktoberfest blend yeast. I might try it with the new C-MRB OF lager recipe.

    I hope to take a yeast class later this month or next, then I will an 'educated' yeast expert :) :) yeah sure...


  23. I liked this one as is.
    I have added choc. I used 2 to 3 oz at flame out. I made a Stout with the Baker choc blocks. 3 oz was quite strong bitter, took 2 months to age.

    Not so sure about the brown sugar. It just increases the ABV with no flavor. Maybe 1/2 cup ?
    Might add a small cup of expresso at flame, out like 8 oz.

    Add vanilla at bottling- batch prime with an oz of pure vanilla.

    It will be a good beer. Next porter I make will be all extract with steep grains.

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