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russki

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About russki

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  1. You've got me at "Falconer's Fruit". These go really well with 3-row.
  2. Give it 72 hours. If still no activity, then you will need to repitch.
  3. "haerbob3" post=388643 said:One of the reasons I started this thread is because I am redesigning my rig again. Some of the stuff I am seeing on line has be worried. The plate chiller, without pre-chilling, is only bringing the wort down to the mid 70's. My water source is 55* year round. (200' well) How are you plate users getting down to lager yeast pitching temps? Are you recirculating back to the kettle or straight into the fermenter? If going straight to the fermenter, simply reduce the wort flow until it's coming out the temp you want. With slow enough flow, it should be the same temperature as water flowing through. If you recirculate, just let it go a bit longer.Oh, and make sure water and wort are flowing in opposite directions!
  4. "losman26" post=388623 said:Just a question for you guys with plate chillers that do all this extra cleaning- do you use hop bags or kettle screens? I use a kettle screen and a big hop bag, and have only cleaned it by backflushing. I haven't noticed anything coming out after doing this. Also duda diesel recommends baking at 350 for 30 mins to sanitize. I use a spider to control the hop debris. I recirculate boiling wort through the chiller for the last 15 min of the boil to sanitize. Have not baked my plate chiller. No problems so far.
  5. "Brewbirds" post=388628 said:Man oh man I love my no clean, no cost kitchen sink ice bath. :laugh: Or you can use the no-chill method No ice or sink needed.
  6. "BigFloyd" post=388590 said: After building the E-BIAB rig with its 15.5 gallon keggle, I knew that the IC wasn't going to fit down inside of it very well, so I switched to chilling by recirculating through a Duda Diesel 30-plate chiller mounted on my brew cart. It's about the same speed as the IC, just more compact and better suited for my particular setup. For a typical brew pot situation, the IC is just fine. +1. My old 20' IC was just too small for my 15 gallon eBIAB rig. And since I had a pump, I just spent $65 on a DudaDiesel 20-plate chiller rather than building a new IC. I can get 6 gallons of wort down to 65F in 15 min by recirculating ice water through it. Although the additional cleaning regimen plate chiller requires negates any time savings. Rinse back and forth with tap water, then recirculate hot OxyClean for 20 min, then recirculate hot clean water for 10 min. With an immersion chiller, all it needed was a quick rinse and wipe.
  7. I've had cucumber beer; actually hibiscus-cucumber beer - HiCu from Magic Hat. It was the most disgusting thing I've drank in a while. Have you tried cucumber beer? I love cucumbers and cucumber water... Cucumber beer, not for me.
  8. I have one question - why? I dump everything into the fermenter, gunk and all. It will settle out into the trub anyway. Doesn't hurt nothing
  9. So now you're coming up with obscure German names for your frankenbeers? Sounds interesting, although I'm not a fan of WB-06. But you can't go wrong with some Munich and Vienna. Keep us posted!
  10. "Jim Johnson" post=387963 said:what you got to clean 'em with CLR? StarSan works just fine for removing the white film.
  11. "losman26" post=387238 said: Question is, what is the best way to deal with this? Do I maybe get a pump? A pump would help a lot - constant mash recirculation will prevent stratification. Adding a PID-controlled heating element (or burner) will allow you to hold precise mash temps indefinitely ("set and forget"). Otherwise, mix, mix, mix!
  12. "Sluggo" post=386497 said:Thoughts on doing this in the LBK? I have 3 sitting idle and would love to put them to good use I'm worried about after fermentation is complete and letting it bulk age for a few months LBK is fine for primarily fermentation, but I would bottle or transfer to 1 gallon jugs once it clears. Otherwise, there's too much headspace.
  13. F3 is compressor delay, set it to 10 min, or you are risking burning the compressor out. F4 is temperature correction if your probe is not reading accurately - leave it at zero.
  14. "Btech117" post=385831 said: Also I live in a area that gets power bumps "power goes off for 2 seconds" Will this re set my box and have my fridge turn on like normal causing temperatures to drop below what is specified for each beer? Would a battery box like most offices use for their computer towers work so when the power goes off the box stays powered up? And also If a battery box may work ... would i cause too much draw on a outlet having my fridge pluged to the controller the controller to a battery box and a battery box into the wall? The STC-1000 controller will not lose its settings when the power goes out. No need for a battery backup.
  15. "Mexicant" post=386061 said:Thanks to everyone for all of the advice. I have one last question. How do you go about calculating/estimating how much water you should start with? http://www.simplebiabcalculator.com/
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