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About Eric

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  1. I ordered a kit for my son and had a couple of questions before I get started. First, has anyone ever force carbonated the Mr. Root Beer? I have a kegorator on my patio and my son wants to have his root beer "on tap" for the summer. I know the yeast produces the carbonation in the bottle, but does it impact the flavor? I have also considered "bottle" carbonating it in the keg. any insight/experience would be greatly appreciated!
  2. approximately 73 pouch is fully expanded now
  3. customer service said that sometimes it can take up to 7 dyas to fully activate - if the pack does swell over the cours of the next couple of days, would if be safe to use?
  4. ordered it as part of a recipe from mrbeer I was going to contact customer service tomorrow
  5. it was between 70 and 75 - stored in the cooler i keep my keg in with a thermometer yes it is the wyeast smack pack
  6. The best that I can tell - there does not feel like there is anything in the pouch anymore other than liquid. I even tried hitting it a few more times this morning just in case
  7. I am in the process of making my first batch with liquid yeast - I activated it about 24 hours ago, but it has yet to expand/swell. It may have expanded slightly, but not what I was expecting. Like I said, this is my first time using liquid yeast so I have not frame of reference. The yeast is german ale and followed the direction as instructed on the package. Is is ok to use?
  8. I remember reading that darker beers and beers with higher ABVs require longer carb/conditioning time. Is 12 weeks for the Blacker Porter enough? I have plenty of home brewed beer on hand, so there is not a need to rush it other than I am looking forward to trying it. Also, what would you recommend for a beer with ABV of 6-7? Thanks,
  9. After 3 weeks fermenting, 12 weeks carb/conditioning, and a couple of days in the fridge I finally got to drink my first pilothouse pilsner. Carbination is good, tasted is good, but the color is much darker than I had expected and darker than the flavor profile and picture on the web site. Any ideas on why it came out so dark? Should I even be concerned? This is only my third beer to brew. First was the west coast pale ale and the second was the linebacker doppel bock. I was expecting to the color to come out similar to the WCPA. Just curious.
  10. Thanks for the input, patience is hard, but I have been constructively using my time by, as they say, drinking all the free beer that came in the bottles i bought for my home brew. My beer ferments at about 68 degrees. Would I be safe to carb/condition at temps in the mid to low 70s, lets say 72-76 range? I started carbing/condition with the bottles in a cooler and controlling the temp with frozen water bottles. I started this because when I first started this, we were right in the middle of a 30+ day strech of 100+ degrees temps and it was the only way to keep it cool. I was under the impression that if the temps got too high it would effect the taste. Now that we have cooled down, I can keep the temp between 72-76 easily without using the coolers and ice. Thanks again for the input. I think I might sneak one bottle of the Dopell bock into the fridge in the name of science.
  11. My second and third batches are currently in the bottles carbing and conditioning at about 65 degrees (4th is in the fermenter). My second batch was the Linebacker Doppell Bock. It has been in the bottle 8 weeks. Was planning on leaving in the bottle 12 weeks before drinking. My third batch was the Pilot House Pilsner. I was planning on carbing/conditioning 8 weeks before attempting to drink. Do these these carbing/conditioning times sound about right for these recipes? Thanks,
  12. Read this on another board and tried it with a case of Red Stripe bottles I was given. Worked well for me - now just waiting for my next batch to finish fermenting so I can bottle with them. Soak them in a 3:1 water:muriatic acid solution for about 15-20 minutes then scrub off the paint with a scouring pad. Make sure you use glass or plastic bucket/measuring cup as the acid reacts with metal. Also. buy some PVC coated gloves and handle everything with the gloves on. Got the acid and gloves at home depot for about $15 total. You will need several of the scouring pads (I went through about 1 pad for every 3 bottles). Once the paint was off, I put them is a second plastic bucket then rinsed them REALLY well with the water hose before handling them with out the gloves. Final step was to wash them in the sink with soap and water followed by another good rinse. Also, make sure you do this outside and take your time and be careful. even at a 3:1 dilution, it still bubbled up when dripped on the concrete on my back patio (no noticeable mark on the concrete). It really is not as dangerous as it sounds and was actually pretty easy once I got going. I also read that you could use a wire wheel (brass) on a bench grinder, but the acid seemed safer to me - I was imagining shards of flying glass going all over my garage
  13. I am getting ready to brew my Pilothouse Pilsner. This is also my first attempt with taking an OG with my hydrometer. How do I figure about where my OG should be for the different recipes? I thought I had read on the board about people comparing their OG's with what they "should" have gotten, but couldn't fing the thread or the info. Thanks
  14. I found another option that is woring pretty good for me. I used it on my first 2 batches while battling a around forty consecutive days here in north texas of 100+ degree temps. The temp in my was around 80 during the day. I put the keg on a 12" x 12" piece of ceramic tile, 1 to 2 frozen water bottles on either side of the keg (also on top of the ceramic tile), and covered the whole thing with a folded towel so that all of the tile, water bottles, and keg were covered except for the very front of the keg where the spout is. I removed the Mr. Beer label and place and adhesive backed thermometer similar to the one sold on the Mr. Beer web site (got mine at walmart) to monitor the temp. Replaced the bottle or bottles about every 12 hour. This kept my temp down to between 68-70.
  15. My second batch just reached it's third week of fermentation. I did not have a hydrometer when I started the batch to take the orginal gravity, but got one after the batch had started. I am pretty sure it has finished fermenting because I took a hydrometer reading at 2 weeks and another 2 days later and the reading dropped from 1.016 to 1.014.(both at 68 degrees). I took another reading 5 days later and got 1.014 again. The beer came out pretty cloudy, but had a nice "flat beer" taste. Does the cloudiness indicate that more fermentation time is needed? Since this is only my second batch, I am not really sure what level of cloudiness is "acceptable." After doing some reading on these boards, I was going to "cold crash" for a couple of days before bottling. Any other suggestion or inpouts before I proceed? Thanks
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