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losman26

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Everything posted by losman26

  1. I did not like the domino dots in my last batch. It gave an extremely cidery taste, and I had to dump the bottles, it was so bad.
  2. That is correct sir. Go Lions!
  3. Which one are you gonna go with? I'm selling my mini-fridge and am going to buy a chest freezer next week. I'm probably gonna go with a 5 cu one, although a 7 sounds tempting. I want to be able to fit two corny kegs, which most 5 CU ft ones do, and be able to fit one carboy on the main floor when I don't have the kegs in there. This would serve great for cold crashing or bringing the pitching temp down faster during the summer time. For example, this summer I'd run my finished wort through a plate chiller which would bring it to the high 70s, low 80's in this heat. After that I'd throw it in my wine fridge, but the compressor is way too weak. If I have the option of throwing a carboy in a freezer, I'd be able to bring the temp down to the 60'swithin minutes. With my wine fridge, I constantly have to defrost the damn thing, because the temp will not go below 45 if I don't.
  4. I have done a couple of larger batches (6.5 gal and 7.5), using 2 different yeasts with whatever was leftover. In my first try- I did 6.5 gal SMaSH with Citra using Wyeast 1056 in the gal carboy, and the S-4 yeast in a one gallon jug. The Wyeast was way better, and I had some skunky flavors from the S-4 yeast. Granted, it was pretty old yeast (but not expired), so I didn't care all that much. Next, I did a batch of a BIAB Zombie Dust clone, using the 1968 yeast, and for the hell of it, I tried using Nottinham yeast. The Nottinham yeast was fairly fresh. I did not rehydrate it, but it picked up skunky notes. I do not know why. Each beer I drank, seemed to vary from glass to glass. I'd drink one, and think it was awful. The next, it would be good, and the day after it would suck again. However, using the 1968 yeast, it was simply awesome. The bottom line for me, is that I'm pretty much done with dry yeast. I have not gotten the consistency from brew to brew that I get from liquid yeast. Rehydrating yeast on brew day is a big PITA, and I'd much rather do starters in advance. My new favorite liquid yeast is the San Diego Super Yeast, but it is hard to find on the east Coast. I really want to try this yeast that screwy gets in NJ. I might actually make the 90 minute trek one day to do it.
  5. Yooper, I got my cereal killer from the great state of MI- $100 shipped.
  6. I remember back in a college we used to buy Keystone LT, and one day they had a case for about $6. I grabbed one can that was half-full, but still sealed. when I opened it up a cockroach climbed out. LOL
  7. UPDATE- so after 11 days the gravity has dropped from 1.074 to 1.014. Right where it needs to be, and taste seems a little fruity/ sweet, but I'm guessing that the 2 oz of zythos hops used for dry hopping will improve things. I can definitely taste the alcohol in this one, although it's not terrible. I just thought this yeast would be a little cleaner. It's my fault for not pitching two packs. When all is said and done, after I finish my last two packs of dry yeast, I'm only gonna do liquid yeast. I never have any off or unexpected flavors with liquid yeast, but always do starters in advance, and decant. The last couple batches where I have used dry yeast, just sprinkling it ,haven't turned out so good. I'd rather just spend the time on the starter ahead of time, and not have to worry about re-hydrating yeast on brew day. After all, I already have enough to worry about- sanitizing my carboy, plate chiller, tubing,better bottle spigot, airlocks, o2 wand, etc. You almost have to time the re-hydration process perfectly.
  8. Dag, are you talking about Danstar's West coast yeast?
  9. I've always wanted to try the Pac Man yeast. It's kind of difficult to find around here though. How is the flavor profile as compared to the Wyeast 1056?
  10. So I decided to give the MR. Beer Spring Seasonal another shot using the Belle Saison yeast. Yeast was pitched at 68F and I have the ambient temp of the fridge at 66F. Fermentation is quite vigorous right now. Should I ramp up the ambient temp a little? I could move it to my closet which has an ambient temp of 75F. Or should I wait a few days?
  11. Is Pac-Man yeast the same strain as the SD Super Yeast? I did a batch using the SD Super yeast, and it finished in 4 days! The gravity dropped all the way to 1.013 (exactly where it was supposed to be) in 4 freaking days. When I checked the SG, 5 days later, it was still the same. It basically seemed to be a fast Chico-strain with a slightly drier finish.
  12. I remember an old thread where someone (Mashani or Kealia maybe??) used this yeast with the spring seasonal, but can't seem to find it on this new format. I just picked up this yeast and was going to brew this up tomorrow. If the thread is gone, any advice would great on hop additions, temps, etc. Thanks
  13. I'm looking at getting a chest freezer as well. Check out this thread. It gives the size and specs for a lot of different freezers. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f35/chest-freezer-specs-layouts-377518/
  14. I just did an IPA with an OG of 1.074, with a final volume of just under 4 gal using a packet of dry Danstar's West coast yeast. I did not rehydrate but did aerate with o2 for 2 minutes. According to Mr. Malty it says that I need around 203 billion cells. I did not pitch 2 at the time, because I only had 1. I did pick up two more packs yesterday. My concern is that I might not have enough cells, because I did not rehydrate. Right now the batch is actively fermenting (day 4), and would adding another pack of this yeast do any good? I'm thinking of just letting it ride out. Thoughts?
  15. I just received a free all grain recipe kit from MoreBeer that I'm gonna convert to BIAB, and the grains are already crushed according to their settings. I wanna run it through my mill one more time to get a finer crush, should I go for .033?
  16. I just picked up a cereal killer mill to try and bring up my efficiency a little more as opposed to using the LHBS setting. What's the ideal setting for BIAB? Should I go .025? Is that low enough? Should I go higher? Do I need to run the grains through twice on a lower setting? Thanks
  17. If your water source is 55 you are more than fine with a plate chiller. My plate chiller brings it to about 1-2 2degrees above ground water in one pass.
  18. Just a question for you guys with plate chillers that do all this extra cleaning- do you use hop bags or kettle screens? I use a kettle screen and a big hop bag, and have only cleaned it by backflushing. I haven't noticed anything coming out after doing this. Also duda diesel recommends baking at 350 for 30 mins to sanitize.
  19. "Inkleg" post=387348 said:I use BeerSmith and a gas burner for now. I Don't use a basket, just the BIAB bag. Have no problems with temperature jumps. Bring water to temp per BeerSmith, put in bag, stir in grains, wrap pot in this and a blanket and walk away and stir every 15 minutes for the next hour. No problem maintaining a steady temperature. Going to do the same when I go electric to start. Don't know on using a pump yet. I did this for my first two BIAB batches, but the problem was that my temps dropped drastically while adding the grains, and I needed to fire up the pot again. These bags seem pretty easy to scorch, and that was the main reason for buying a basket. I was honestly thinking about buying an electric BIAB system, but will probably just build my own seeing that I already have a big enough pot, basket, etc.Also, what kind of efficiency are you getting with BeerSmith? Mine has been low. Highest has been around 60%, although since adding this basket and a therma-K thermometer on this latest batch, it improved by 7 points? Do you find that beerSmith maybe has you add too much water?
  20. Today I did up a 7.5 batch of Zombie Dust,using a new steamer basket for a 15 gal pot. There is about a 1 1/2- 2 inch gap between the pot and the basket. I had a hard time knowing what my mash temps were. Inside of the basket it was inconsistent because of the gap between the basket and the pot. Eventually I was able to stabilize the temp with constant stirring, but it is really annoying having your thermometer jump all over the place. Question is, what is the best way to deal with this? Do I maybe get a pump? Or is it not that big of deal to have temps flying all over the place as long as I get them to where I need them to be eventually. At one point, I was afraid of scorching something because the temp in the water outside of the basket shot up above 170, but inside was in the high 140's. I do know that my efficiency was much higher using the basket for the first time.
  21. I use the cool brewing bag. By putting in 2- one liter ice bottles, I'm able to get the wort temp to around 62-64. This bag is awesome. I only change the bottles once a day.
  22. I did a recipe recently using the c-hops and found that using the nugget hop as the bittering hop adds a nice contrast.
  23. "mashani" post=384267 said:Yep, it's cheaper until you buy lots of extra shit! It only costs half as much isn't quite true at least until the investment in whatever goodies you buy/build is payed off. Back when I did nothing but AG in my former brewing life, I don't know that I ever brewed enough batches to really break even. If I started doing nothing but AG again, I'd invest or build an EBIAB rig. Not sure how many batches that would take to "break even" but it will be a lot of them, that much I know. For now I'm happy with my mix of all things, I'm making good beer and not having all the weird kinds of issues you were having. LOL. Here's what I have bought in the last two weeks. 1. 15 gal pot with valve- $90 2. Kettle screen $15 3. plate chiller $140 4. Thermometer- $158 with the extra probe and shipping. Now I probably need a pump. Or a pump would be useful. Not an absolute necessity, but would make things easier chilling, and getting rid of some of the cold break
  24. "Beer-lord" post=384258 said:I recently put down a pound of cash for a Thermopen after I had concerns that 4 thermometers gave me conflicting temps. Some in the 60's but most in the range of the mash temps. My beers have been fine, though some not attenuating as well as I'd like so temperature control was just one more thing I wanted to remove from the equation. I'm also showing my evil twin how to BIAB though he's not a regular brewer, he wants to learn the process though it's simply, simple. I still plan to do an occasional extract/partial mash or steep when time is a problem and simply will make sure the ingredients are fresh as that is the major key to all good brewing. The beer I'm drinking now, while it tastes good, didn't attenuate like I was expecting because of a bad thermometer. I'm guessing I had the temps in the 60's for the mash, therefore it finished at 1.020. Not a bad beer, better than my extract brews, but would be way better if it was down around 1.015 or so. Also, I just bought a Thermo-k-Plus off their site, with the heavy duty wire probe that is about 6 feet. This will be good for monitoring the mash temps without having to open up the pot every time to check it. Also, I can monitor my temp in my cool-brewing fermentation bag much better now. Hell, pretty soon I'm gonna have to buy a pump. Damn you, expensive hobby!
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