Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

losman26

Community Members
  • Content Count

    1,653
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by losman26

  1. "BigFloyd" post=384262 said: "losman26" post=384257 said: Maybe eventually I'll convert to traditional all-grain. Which method do you prefer? Go electric. I went from traditional mash tun AG to single vessel recirculating E-BIAB and am glad. It was an adventure to build it all (from one of PJ's schematics on HBT), but a really interesting and rewarding project. I love being able to set/monitor my mash temp on the PID controller, let the Chugger pump recirculate wort, and leave it be for 60-90 minutes. Funny thing is that, during the hot Texas summer, I may just have to do a few stove top 2.5 galllon batches and ferment them in the LBKs. My E-BIAB rig is in the garage where the 240V 50A spa panel is located. Just standing out there can get uncomfortable. I have thought of either building a electric BIAB rig or buying one from High Gravity.
  2. I'm drinking my second BIAB batch using the HBC 342 experimental hop, and see no reason to do extract brewing anymore unless I'm either teaching someone or need a quick batch. BIABing doesn't really take much more time as extract brewing, and costs about 1/2 as much. I just tasted my hydro of a Citra Rye batch using the San Diego super yeast, and it tastes awesome. The freshness of the ingredients, and being able to control your mash makes all the difference. It also seems a lot easier to adjust or scale recipes doing all-grain. Now, I just need to buy a really good digital thermometer. I'm probably gonna go with something from Thermoworks. Maybe eventually I'll convert to traditional all-grain. Which method do you prefer?
  3. You should just get a plate chiller. I was able to get my wort to 72 F in 7 mins. Imagine this with a pump and prechiller.
  4. This is going to be my next DIY project within a month. It looks pretty easy to do, and affordable.
  5. "zorak1066" post=382650 said:if you got it on amazon, i would contact amazon's support and explain your situation. like MB amazon has STELLAR support ppl. even though you bought from an amazon market place dealer, if you complain to amazon about having to pay return shipping for the seller's mistake - amazon will often send you an RMA authorization email with paid postage. at least i never had problems with them. good luck. As far as shipping goes, it has gotten so expensive across the board in the last few years, that it almost costs almost as much to ship a product as the actual cost of the product. AmazonPrime is starting to screw over people with their Add ON BS. Making you spend $25 in order to get the primeShipping that you previously never paid for. Airline industries are now gonna start trying to charge us for carry-on items. When does it end? When shipping costs almost as much the item you bought, it's almost better to throw it away or try and make it work somehow.
  6. I've gotten screwed on two homebrew purchases this week. My steamer basket for my BIAB rig was too big for the pot. This is my fault, but I cannot believe the place sticks with their damn policy of no returns, even though I would pay for shipping and buy something else. I managed to order the only basket that didn't allow returns on all of ebay. Not to mention, the thing came shipped with a huge dent. Not a big deal, because I would have used it, had it fit my pot. It just seems that too many companies are interested in making a quick buck, rather than keeping you as a costumer. Now this on Amazon. They screwed up, and want me to pay postage that almost costs the same as the actual product.
  7. Basically I have a threaded 3/8 female NPT. The Kettle screen connection they sent me was a male 1/2 inch .
  8. "zorak1066" post=382641 said:dont know if brass is bad for home brewing but... http://www.lasco.net/reducing-adapters-c-2937_820_821_822/12-male-pipe-thread-x-38-female-compression-brass-adapter-p-7997.html is something like this what youre looking for? Yes, exactly. It seems like it's next to impossible to find this in SS for some reason. I'm starting to thing that brass could be bad, because you never see it anywhere in homebrewing fittings.
  9. I ordered this kettle screen, and was supposed to get a 3/8 inch one, but this place sent me a 1/2 inch. http://www.amazon.com/Kettle-Screen/dp/B008534XAC I put in a request for a refund and they are saying that I have to pay for postage, even though it was their screw up. I have sent another email complaining about this, but I'd almost rather find some sort of connection converter or reducer to connect this to a 3/8 inch one than wait two weeks or so to get another (after they receive mine and exchange it). I have googled, and still do not know what I need. Can I find something at Home Depot? Is a brass connection bad for homebrew? What piece do I need to connect a 1/2 inch kettle screen to a 3/8 female thread? Should I just tear apart the the clamp, buy a new clamp, and insert a 3/8 inch connection? Where do I find this 3/8 connection? Thanks...
  10. "asnider" post=382077 said: Either way, I'm hoping I can get the second can to attenuate down enough to get the 6.5% ABV that Mr. Beer has advertised for this one. A bunch of false advertising on this one. Not a Belgian White IPA, and nowhere close to the 6.5 ABV as advertised nor the 60+ IBUs. Something went wrong here.
  11. no carbonating. I was just thinking of adding hops in the keg and letting it sit at room temp. So, I guess using the secondary lid is what I'm gonna do. Basically you kill two birds with one stone with this secondary lid. All you have to do is change the lid to carbonate. I just thought about putting the regular keg lid, because you can purge out the remaining o2, and put a co2 blanket on it.
  12. "Bluejaye" post=381842 said:The Mr. Beer LBK is not airtight. You can just use the lid that came with it. I'm talking corny kegs.
  13. Here's a report online from the water company in my town, not the water in my particular house, but the whole town.. I do not quite understand it. Page 3 of the PDF lists all the chemicals and what's allowed by law, and what they have comparable If someone could take a look at and let me know how it looks, and what I need to do if anything. Thanks http://www.aquarion.com/pdfs/Greenwich_2012.pdf
  14. "Brewbirds" post=381749 said: "losman26" post=381722 said:I guess that I'm gonna go with 8.5 gallons and use bottled water until I get a report. If overshoot my boiling gravity, i can always add a little water. Do they make filters that hook up to a garden house ? If I am not mistaken our research indicated that bottles water is not free of chlorine/chlorimines. Only RO/distilled water is and then you have to add back in some essentials minerals. I use Poland spring, and my extract brews taste great. It seems when I go to a generic bottled water that I get some sort of metallic taste. Since I'm doing BIAB now, it doesn't seem very cost effective to continue this way.
  15. I'm kegging up a 2.5 gal batch, and need to dry hop with .25 oz. Should I use the regular keg lid, or should I use a keg lid that I have that has a whole drilled with airlock where you can essentially make your keg into a secondary? http://www.homebrewing.org/Cornelious-Keg-Lid-for-Secondary-Fermenter_p_999.html Is it a bad thing to have the keg totally sealed up during dry-hopping with no way for co2 to escape, or would be better to use the lid that makes my keg like a secondary?
  16. I guess that I'm gonna go with 8.5 gallons and use bottled water until I get a report. If overshoot my boiling gravity, i can always add a little water. Do they make filters that hook up to a garden house ?
  17. "Beer-lord" post=381711 said:This is somewhat painful to read but it looks like it's just under 15 lbs of grain. I still don't know why you'd need more than 8.5 gallons total. I looked at a few of my recipes from Beersmith online and see a few that have 14 lbs of grain and it only called for 8.19 gallons of water in a 15 gallon kettle. It's actually 15 lbs, 11.2 oz
  18. I adjusted the equipment profile and it now says 10 gallons. Here's the original recipe. It has changed from 5.25 to 5.5 gals and the pot is now 15 gals and not 30. The grain amounts are slightly different Sorry I'm at work and postng from my phone. So it's a litte screwed up CaIPA-Citra RyeAmerican IPAType: All GrainDate: 10/20/2012Batch Size (fermenter): 5.25 galBrewer: Mr. GBoil Size: 9.00 galAsst Brewer: Matt (neighbor)Boil Time: 60 minEquipment: Pot (20 gal/) BIAB-5.25 batchEnd of Boil Volume 7.20 galBrewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %Final Bottling Volume: 4.51 galEst Mash Efficiency 92.3 %Fermentation: Ale, triple HoppedTaste Rating(out of 50): 45.0Taste Notes: Awesome taste, clean, dry w/ a very pronounce citrusy finishIngredientsIngredientsAmtNameType#%/IBU10 lbs 3.7 ozPale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM)Grain168.3 %1 lbs 13.3 ozRye Malt (4.7 SRM)Grain212.2 %1 lbs 7.2 ozVictory Malt (25.0 SRM)Grain39.7 %11.6 ozCaramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM)Grain44.8 %4.9 ozCara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM)Grain52.0 %3.9 ozCaramel/Crystal Malt - 20L (20.0 SRM)Grain61.6 %3.3 ozWhite Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM)Grain71.4 %0.75 ozCitra [13.90 %] - Boil 60.0 minHop827.5 IBUs0.50 ozCentennial [8.70 %] - Boil 50.0 minHop910.9 IBUs0.50 ozCentennial [8.70 %] - Boil 30.0 minHop108.8 IBUs0.25 ozCitra [13.90 %] - Boil 20.0 minHop115.6 IBUs0.50 ozCascade [6.80 %] - Boil 15.0 minHop124.5 IBUs0.25 ozCitra [13.90 %] - Boil 10.0 minHop133.3 IBUs0.25 ozCascade [6.80 %] - Boil 5.0 minHop140.9 IBUs0.5 pkgSan Diego Super (White Labs #WLP001) [35.49 ml]Yeast15-Beer ProfileEst Original Gravity: 1.070 SGMeasured Original Gravity: 1.070 SGEst Final Gravity: 1.010 SGMeasured Final Gravity: 1.010 SGEstimated Alcohol by Vol: 8.0 %Actual Alcohol by Vol: 7.9 %Bitterness: 61.5 IBUsCalories: 235.0 kcal/12ozEst Color: 7.9 SRMMash ProfileMash Name: BIAB, Light BodyTotal Grain Weight: 14 lbs 15.8 ozSparge Water: -0.00 galGrain Temperature: 72.0 FSparge Temperature: 168.1 FTun Temperature: 72.0 FAdjust Temp for Equipment: TRUEMash PH: 5.20Mash StepsNameDescriptionStep TemperatureStep TimeSaccharificationAdd 40.38 qt of water at 154.9 F147.9 F90 minMash OutHeat to 168.0 F over 7 min168.0 F10 minSparge Step: Remove grains, and prepare to boil wortMash Notes: Brew in a bag method where the full boil volume is mashed within the boil vessel and then the grains are withdrawn at the end of the mash. No active sparging is required. This is a light body beer profile.Carbonation and StorageCarbonation Type: KegVolumes of CO2: 3.0Pressure/Weight: 20.72 PSICarbonation Used: Keg with 20.72 PSIKeg/Bottling Temperature: 45.0 FAge for: 20.00 daysFermentation: Ale, triple HoppedStorage Temperature: 40.0 Fk I adjusted the equipment profile and it now says 10 gallons. Here's the original recipe. It has changed from 5.25 to 5.5 gals and the pot is now 15 gals and not 30. '
  19. I did the recipe on Beersmith and it has an OG 1.070 with over 15 lbs 11.2 oz of grain. Are the calculations wrong? It says 45 quarts of water to add.
  20. do you do anything special to the water or just simply use it?
  21. I have always used bottled water, but am doing a 5.5 gal BIAB batch that requires 11.25 gal of water to start with. I'd rather just use tap water, but am wondering what I should do to get rid of the chlorine. Should I fill up my pot and let it sit overnight? Does it need to be longer? Do I have to boil it first? My tap water doesn't taste bad. It's city water though.
  22. I just went to home depot and bought another hose adaptor female, and a male connector for the pre-chiller.I'm ready to go, and also got my pre-chiller. I'm excited!. Now to sanitize, I was thinking of boiling in water for 15 mins, then cover the holes with sanitized until I'm ready to use. Would that work? Basically, I only have to worried about sanitizing the wort in and out right? Thanks
  23. I just ordered one of these to go with my kettle to use as an extra precaution for my new plate chiller. I also have used this hop filter on my last few batches and it works wonders. http://www.homebrewing.org/Stainless-Brew-Filter-4-x-10--300-micron-mesh_p_3180.html
  24. "BigFloyd" post=381518 said:Nice. I've got that same chiller on my recirculating E-BIAB rig set up with camlocks. It works well. Since I'm running a chugger pump, I take the return hose (coming out of the pump) off the top keggle valve and connect it to the "wort in" on the Duda. The hose on the "wort out" goes to the top keggle valve to recirculate while chilling. I start out with hose water to get it down to about 85*F then switch over to pumping ice water out of and back into a 5-gallon igloo with a Northern Tool submersible pump. Since I do both ales (target 62*F) and lagers (target 48*F), I can just keep adding ice to the igloo until I get there. When finished, I leave it covered and give it a 15-20 rest (to settle the junk) then I run the "wort out" hose to the bucket and pump slowly so as to not suck up the kettle trub. For cleaning, I forward and reverse flush with DIY PBW and rinse water via the pump. For the last 10 min of the boil, I gently circulate wort through the pump and chiller to sanitize. You can also put the chiller in the oven at 300*F for 30 minutes, rinse and then hit it with starsan right before use. How did you do a DIY backflush? Since I have barb connections on the wort-in and out should I just get a garden hose attachment with some tubing? Then just turn on the hose?
×
×
  • Create New...