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Everything posted by losman26

  1. I've just read that its supposed to be 90 on brew day, so I'll probably use the immersion chiller asa pre-chiller in a pot of ice. I don't have a pump yet. Would gravity work as long as I have enough ice? I also wonder how I should handle the cold break. Because this thing cools so fast, should I whirlpool, wait and then chill? Or not worry about it and just chill right away? As far as cleaning goes I'll probably run oxyclean, then starsan and then do a quick rinse at the end. I saw a video of someone connecting auto-siphon tubing to it and pumping out debris that way.
  2. I just got a Duda Diesel 30 plate chiller with garden house fittings and 1/2 inch barbs. http://www.dudadiesel.com/choose_item.php?id=HX2330BWGH http://www.dudadiesel.com/img/items/HX2330BWGH_ID1310-S.jpg Because I'm brewing up a BIAB batch with a 9 gal boil volume on Tuesday, I decided to do my first test run in 80 degree weather, and was able to get 6 gal of boiling water down to 72 F in 7 minutes. This was done in one pass, gravity fed. It probably would have been lower, but I opened up the spigot quite a bit in the beginning. I'd imagine that if I were to use my immersion chiller as a pre-chiller in ice, the wort would probably get down into the low 60's or lower. I think that I'd prefer to use a pump. IMO- this thing is simply amazing, although proably a pain in the ass to clean. I bought some hop filters that I'm going use with my new 15 gal Brewer's Edge kettle that I got from Williams brewing. At the end of the day, this is an investment I should have made a long time ago instead of making a half-assed immersion chiller, with some kinks, from my screw-ups trying to bend it.
  3. "jivex5k" post=380422 said: "losman26" post=380421 said:I'll probably go with the 1056 or the WL California ale because of the temp range. Has anyone tried the Lallemand West coast yeast? I'm using it right now for an IPA, fermentation took off like crazy after 24 hours. It's been a week since I pitched, going to take hydro readings today but it's probably pretty close to finished.I can't say much about the flavor or anything though since the beer isn't finished, but it ferments vigorously. Let me know how it turns out. I have a starter of this that has an expiration date of 6-13. I did a 1.8 starter, expecting it not to do much, and it is going crazy. This is definitely gonna be washed later on for future use.
  4. You should try this HME with White Labs Mexican Lager yeast. This yeast captures the "mexican lager" taste which you cannot find in other lager yeasts, and is incredibly crisp/clean. Even though I screwed up the beer by dry hopping, and filtering, the hydro tasted really good. I have about 6 bottles in the fridge lagering away are in the fridge, hopping that it will get better with time.
  5. Sounds awesome. I just got a 20 gal pot and a nice plate chiller with 30 plates, that can chill down to whatever temp the tap the water is in 5 mins. I'm gonna test it out next week.
  6. "Beerlabelman" post=380911 said:I'll take that can beer brother. Meet me at DeCicco's Armonk Friday 4:00PM. I'll add it to my Super Atomic Ridiculous Double Imperial Sour Rye Wheat IPA which I'm brewing this weekend. :cheers: Wow, they're already open? This is one place I'll be hitting a lot. I can do next week, not this week though.
  7. I'll put it to you this way. I went to the LHBS,and bought some grains for a 5 gal BIAB- Rye-Citra-IPA. It cost me exactly $25 plus 6 for the yeast. This will be an incredible beer, for $31, no doubts, no questions. The white IPA was simply false advertising. I was enthusiastic buying this, because it's a whole new beer style, and I liked all the ones I tried previously. The IBUs seemed like they were at 15 Ibus instead of 60, like they claimed. My second can of this stuff will simply go to waste, or be given away.
  8. Is it me ,or is this the seasonal that has taken the longest amount of time to sell out? I've never seen two seasonal brews overlap one other. In the past, seasonal brews were gone within a few weeks. This seasonal, just was not that good. The Dubbel from 2 years ago was great though. I still have one can of the "White IPA",and will either give it away or brew it unenthusiastically.
  9. I just started doing biab and it is so much cheaper than extract. Also, it really doesn't take much longer. Before, I was steeping for 45 mins then taking the pot off to disolve the extract. After that bringing it back to a boil. Not much difference and a better quality beer by just adding a few mins. I can go to an awesome lhbs and get the exact ingredients I need for a batch. There's absolutely no reason for me to do extract any more unless I see a recipe kit that is really interesting.
  10. I usually wrap a sleeping bag around my pot after raising the temp 7 degrees higher The temp seems to stay stable, almost too stable for that matter.
  11. I'll probably go with the 1056 or the WL California ale because of the temp range. Has anyone tried the Lallemand West coast yeast?
  12. Has anyone used this yeast? How does it compare to the California Ale yeast or the Wyeast 1056? I'm going to try this in my next batch if the LHBS has it.
  13. I just did up a BIAB batch using two ounces of this hop on Tuesday. Here's the recipe I did substituting the HBC hops for the falconers flight which was originally in the recipe. I'm not sure how it's gonna turn out. I tasted a sample at 1.022, and wasn't overly impressed, but we'll see how it turns out after the dry hop. It seems like this hop from what I tasted, that this hop would work well in combination with another hop, maybe centennial or Magnum. Alone, I'll have to wait and see how the final product. Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 3.41 gal Post Boil Volume: 2.81 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 2.50 gal Bottling Volume: 2.25 gal Estimated OG: 1.075 SG Estimated Color: 9.6 SRM Estimated IBU: 79.9 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 81.0 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 5 lbs 12.0 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 82.4 % 9.6 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 2 8.6 % 8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 3 7.2 % 2.1 oz Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 4 1.9 % 0.50 oz HBC 342 hops (1) [11.40 %] - First Hop 5 40.3 IBUs 0.25 oz HBC 342 hops (2) [11.40 %] - Boil 2 Hop 6 12.7 IBUs 0.25 oz HBC 342 hops (3) [11.40 %] - Boil 2 Hop 7 11.1 IBUs 0.25 oz HBC 342 hops(4) [11.40 %] - Boil 1 Hop 8 9.1 IBUs 1 Whilfloc (Boil 10.mins) Fining 9 - 0.25 oz HBC 342 hops (6) [11.40 %] - Boil 1 Hop 10 6.6 IBUs 0.25 oz HBC 342 hops (7) [11.40 %] - Boil 0 Hop 11 0.0 IBUs 0.9 pkg American Ale (Wyeast Labs #1056) [124.21 Yeast 12 - 0.25 oz HBC 342 hops (8) [11.40 %] - Dry Hop 13 0.0 IBUs Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 6 lbs 15.7 oz ---------------------------- Name Description Step Tempe Step Time Saccharification Add 15.68 qt of water at 161.4 F 152.0 F 75 min Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min Sparge: Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort Notes: ------
  14. What I did is, edit the 18.5 gal profile and change the mash tun volume to 20 gal instead of 18.5, and change the batch the volume from whatever it was before to 5.25 gals. Is this the right way? Also does BIAB generally reach 70% efficiency?
  15. "philm00x" post=379992 said:You can create your own equipment profile, and filling in the properties of your equipment, but you'll have to know the boil off rate and other parameters of your setup. Using the BIAB profile is a good starting point, but creating your own profile will be even more accurate. I do small BIAB mashing following the single infusion, light body, batch sparge profile, and it has been pretty accurate with my small kitchen gear. Should I edit the default- 18.5 gall/ BIAB equipment profile?
  16. How do I accurately convert an all-grain recipe and scale it down to a 5.25 gal batch accurately. I'll be using a 20 gal pot but only a 5.25 gal batch. Is it as simple as changing the mash profile to BIAB- medium body, light body, etc? Edit: my main concern is that I buy the right amount of grains and compensate for the efficiency rate. I don't want to have to add DME. My last BIAB was 7 points lower than the projected boil gravity, but I didn't crush the grains twice like it's recommended.
  17. I'm guessing that since the 1056 yeast is a very clean yeast, that I should be allright.
  18. "alb" post=379243 said: "losman26" post=379236 said:Make sure you double crush the grains. I haven't read anything about needing to do that. Do you mean just put it through the grain mill twice, our crush it twice as small? Why is it important? Everywhere I've read says to pass the grains through the mill twice. I haven't done that yet, and have been off on my efficiency on the two BIAB batches I've done. I'm also wondering if maybe I should do a small sparge, or get a different bag.
  19. Make sure you double crush the grains. I brewed up a batch today and was 7 pts off of my projected boiling gravity. I also had more evaporation for some reason that BeerSmith calculated, and had to top off with 1/2 gal of water. Does beer smith calculate the grains you need to add correctly to compensate for less efficiency? if you want to get really adventurous, try doing a Zombie Dust Clone or Kern River's Citra Double IPA. I have done the extract version of both of them and they are amazing. I'm going to do a BIAB version in a couple of weeks.
  20. I guess I was paranoid for no reason. I had a krausen pretty much three hours after pitching the yeast. I'm just worried that I over-pitched by stepping up the starter. First I did a 1L starter, and then stepped it up another 800 ML.
  21. I'm going to pitch it and if there's no activity ill use the the us-5
  22. I saw some bubbles but not the normal amount I'm used to
  23. I used 100 g dme to 1000 ml, nutrient and ferm cap. I had a few bubbles. But nothing compare to other starters I've done. I haven't used 1056 in a while but it seems like I'd remember not having a krausen
  24. Expiration date is 11/2013 on the us-5 is,Do you think that I have enough viable cells?
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