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Everything posted by losman26

  1. My gravity at mash out was at 1.020. It only went up to 1.024 because I boiled off some of the water.there was so much water that its hard to imagine that I had any dough balls
  2. f "Brewbirds" post=372133 said:I'm going to follow this because we just tried the same thing and had problems. We thought Beersmith added to much water as well at first only our boil off rate was outrageous and we ended up having to add a bunch of top off water. Why do you double crush grain for BIAB? They say to double crush to get a better efficiency. I think that the beersmith water might be right, but maybe it doesn't compensate for lack of efficiency, meaning that you have to add more grains. I do not know much about all grain or BIAB, but just looking at the grains, I had a hard time imagining that I was going to get a 1.049 beginning boil wort from what I had. My temps were perfect too.I might try a different bag next time as well.
  3. I brewed this up yesterday, and had terrible efficiency on this one. My starting gravity was supposed to be 1.046 and it was 1.024. I ended up having to add 1 1/2 lbs of DME to compensate for this. It will turn out to be a good beer anyways, but it sucked having to spend much more extra time to figure things out for such a small batch. What I think happened 1. Grains were only crushed once 2. Guy from LHBS made a mistake, that I didn't check beforehand. Was missing 1/2 lb of grains. 3. Beersmith had me add way too much water for the amount of grains. 4.25 gal for a 2.5 gal batch is way too much water. Something seemed off, when I still had 4 gal in the pot to start the boil. I even had to boil off some of the liquid to get what the amount. That being said, I'm going to buy some sort of mill. Does anyone know of cheap one that works good? Or should I just fork over $100 and get a good one. I've already spent tons of money on this hobby anyways.
  4. I have to say that the easiest way to wash yeast is using the better bottle racking adaptor. It is effortless. All you have to do is move the stem above the trub and grab the yeast exactly where it is at. Here's a few vials I did. I also have a mason jar that is filled all the way up to 100 ML of good white stuff. This one was tricky to figure out at first, because the trub was on top of the yeast. WLP 940- Mexican Lager yeast.
  5. "mashani" post=370658 said:More power to you, but honestly it depends on if you have another hour, plus the time for a longer boil too (you can get away without a longer boil if you just steep some grains). I love doing it when I have time, but I can't add 2 hours to my brew day all the time... I'm just really careful what extracts I buy, I like the ones I get from MoreBeer and Northern Brewers Rye has been good so far too. I just buy fresh bulk stuff, nothing in cans except for Mr. Beer HMEs on occasion. Anyways, I doubt over-attenuation had anything to do with the extract. If anything extracts don't give you the attenuation you'd get from a lower temp mash. If I'm going for a drier beer I'll use a bit of dextrose in my extract brews to simulate a lower temp mash. Well, after the 45 min steep, plus the time to get DME to dissolve, then to bring it up to a boil isn't much less time than doing a BIAB. The only drawback for me is that I can only do 2.5 gal BIAB batches with the pot I have.
  6. "Bassman" post=371135 said:I just ordered the Cool-Brewing. My apartment is 76' and it's only May. In the winter my apartment never went below 72'. Gotta love NYC radiators. This is with them shut in the living room, lol. There have been 2 faults with my MB batches. One is with the older ( 2 years old ) HME's that I used. I felt they had a cloying taste, maybe the infamous extract tang ( or is it twang ). I didn't get that on the batches that used new HME. The other problem is a slight higher alcohol taste, subtle but there. None of my batches have fermented below low 70's. Because I live in an apartment, and space is a premium, I felt Cool-Brewing was the best answer for me. I appreciate the folks who mentioned this and gave it a thumbs up because I would not have found it otherwise. You did the right thing. I'd just recommend using two liter frozen water or soda bottles instead of other misc frozen bottles. They have done a lot of research using these things, and they say that 1 2-liter will lower the beer temp 5 degrees. I have used other sizes, and have been wrong on my temps. One batch I got a stuck fermentation, because the temp got too low. Frozen ice packs (the ones that ship yeast with), thaw out way too fast as well. I've had better luck going with two liters, or 1 liter bottles.I'm guessing that in NYC your ambient temp in July is gonna be 75F or more. So following this formula will eliminate all the guesswork. Also, get an accurate thermometer to measure the ambient temp.
  7. hmm. I wouldn't trust yourself just yet. Last summer, I decided to put two of my brews in one of my friend's basements which had a temp similar to yours. I even raved about how his basement was perfect fermenting beer, because I didn't see a temp above 60. Enter July, I decide to leave a couple of brews fermenting in his basement, and the heat wave happens in the upper 90's. So the ambient temp of the basement rose in the 70's, giving some off flavors to the beer. Never trust your opinion/belief in what your ambient temp will be, and always have a safe backup. I use the Johnson controll in my wine fridge, but most of the time it is occupied by kegs. Cool brewing makes an insulation bag that is better than anything. I have been using that lately. . DO NOT TRUST YOUR AMBIENT TEMPS NOW! It's gonna rise eventually, and you'll be pissed off when you're drinking fusel alcohol a few months down the road.
  8. "mashani" post=370661 said: "pspearing" post=370522 said:Lagunitas claims it is "homicidally hopped" but while there's plenty of hop flavor and aroma I didn't find it to be very bitter, so IMHO the hops not only don't qualify as homicidal, I don't think they even qualify as assaultive. See, it's a matter of perspective. Old school European brewers would say that the hop flavors we create from American hops is insanely wrong and overly assertive, regardless of the bitterness. I just got back from Europe a couple of months ago. While I can say that the beer in Belgium is amazing. On the other hand, they are doing really ground breaking stuff in California. It's kind of like comparing European wine to California wine. IMO they are both great, but Cali is more on the cutting edge of everything. They are not afraid to go outside of the norm.
  9. After drinking a White IPA from a local brewery that I've never heard of before, I've realized that this seasonal really is not that good straight out of the can. Granted it is a drinkable beer, but it is not what was advertised at $25/can. Bitterness, bitterness...... Where are the 60 IBUs that you claim, Mr. Beer? I do not taste them whatsoever. They seem more like 20-30.
  10. "mashani" post=370427 said:As little water as needed to dissolve it, but you really somehow need to swirl it in like a bottling sugar solution. It won't do you any good sinking to the bottom as a thick syrup, it's not like feeding sugar to a fermentation where the fermentation itself will whip it around and integrate it. If you shake your keg to help speed up carbing, then I guess that would do it? I dunno, this is uncharted territory for me. I was reading up on this on Homebrewtalk.com, and the results were good, but they recommended adding a little at a time to get the desired result. I kegged it tonight, and the beer wasn't terrible, but has this extreme dryness to it that is driving me crazy. I usually like drier beers, but this one is way too much. For me, it's not a big deal, because I'm re-doing this as a BIAB version which will be spot on. I just hate producing a 5 gal beer that is shitty. My days of doing extract brews are over. No reason for me to continue. If you spend 30-45 mins steeping grains, what is the big deal to add another hour or so onto the process?
  11. https://www.cool-brewing.com/ This thing is awesome. You can fit two 5 gal carboy's in there. Putting 2-two liter bottles that are frozen will bring down the wort temp 10 degrees. It works so well that you have to be careful about how cold the thing gets, because it maintains temps so well.
  12. "Kealia" post=370061 said:I'm typically seeing people use 1/4lb in a 5G batch. I'm seeing it listed as 40PPG, so using 1/4lb would gain you only 2 points in a 5G batch. You could scale there and get 4 points from 1/2lb, etc. but you might want to let folks who have used it extensively comment on how much is too much to use. I have the batch cold crashing now. Can I add it to the keg while it's somewhat cold? Should I bring it back to room temperature? I'll probably add 1/2 lb to bring it up 4 points. How much water do I boil it in?
  13. "manosteel9423" post=370034 said: "OikoEco" post=370022 said:Yup, I remain optimistic here. Whatever we want to call in the end is fine with me as long as it tastes good. And this is all I was trying to get at in my longwinded manner! I certainly hope that I didn't offend anyone...losman26 specifically. I wasn't trying to call anyone out or anything. No offense taken, but I just feel that this brew was not as advertised. You cannot convince me that this has 60 IBUs or even close to it. This is the first problem with this seasonal. Second of all, if you taste White IPAs, you will realize that it doesn't match up. I brewed up a kit from Midwest "Lawnmower de Saison" over a year ago, which was more like a white IPA than this one, and it is the furthest thing from an IPA. I'd be curious to see what hops they used in their HME. The other huge problem with this brew is the low attenuation rate. Most of us were only able to get it down to 1.021.
  14. Also, should I have the grains crushed finer for BIAB brewing?
  15. "teutonic terror" post=369886 said:This looks like the recipe I used to make a five gallon AG batch ten days ago. Of course yours is half of that but it looks like you're on the right track grain wise with it. Your mash and mashout look good too! I used US-05 in mine. A package for each LBK. I seem to remember the original recipe called for WLP001. Sorry I can't help with the 1968, I've never used that yeast before! Good luck! The 1968 yeast is what they use in Zombie Dust, and it is rumored that it is their house strain. It doesn't attenuate as much as an American ale yeast, and tends to be fruitier and gives malty characteristics. I've never had gumballhead, so it's difficult for me to say which yeast would work better.
  16. So, since my extract version of Gumballhead doesn't seem to be all that good based upon the hydro-samples, I'm going to do a BIAB version of this next week. I found a 5 gal all-grain recipe on beersmith, and changed the equipment profile to BIAB as well as the mash-profile to medium body- BIAB. Also, I did some minor editing using beersmith, increasing the bitterness slightly to be equal to the original, as well as the OG to make it around 5.6 ABV%. My main doubt is the yeast. Almost all of the recipes online of Gumballhead use US-5 or 1056 yeast. I have read a lot that Three Floyds use 1968 yeast for all or most of their beers. I have changed the recipe using the 1968 yeast. I'm unsure about this. If I go with a yeast like 1056 or White Labs California ale, or WL-American Ale, I'm going to have to alter the grain bill a little. So for those that have done a Gumballhead clone. I need your input. This will be my first stab at BIAB brewing. Does my grain bill seem correct? BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: Gumball Head_BIAB Brewer: Asst Brewer: Style: American Wheat or Rye Beer TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 3.88 gal Post Boil Volume: 3.13 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 2.50 gal Bottling Volume: 2.28 gal Estimated OG: 1.059 SG Estimated Color: 6.4 SRM Estimated IBU: 35.0 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 65.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 78.3 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 3 lbs 0.5 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (1.9 SRM) Grain 1 50.0 % 2 lbs 6.8 oz White Wheat Malt (2.4 SRM) Grain 2 40.0 % 9.7 oz Caravienne Malt (22.0 SRM) Grain 3 10.0 % 0.19 oz Amarillo Gold [8.25 %] - First Wort 60.0 Hop 4 11.0 IBUs 0.19 oz Amarillo Gold [8.25 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 5 10.0 IBUs 0.48 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 mins) Fining 6 - 0.37 oz Amarillo Gold [8.25 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 7 9.9 IBUs 0.37 oz Amarillo Gold [8.25 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 8 4.0 IBUs 0.12 oz Amarillo Gold [8.25 %] - Aroma Steep 0.0 Hop 9 0.0 IBUs 1.0 pkg London ESB Ale (Wyeast Labs #1968) [124. Yeast 10 - 0.48 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 7.0 Day Hop 11 0.0 IBUs Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body Total Grain Weight: 6 lbs 1.1 oz ---------------------------- Name Description Step Tempe Step Time Saccharification Add 17.30 qt of water at 157.8 F 152.1 F 75 min Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min Sparge: Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort Notes: ------ Created with BeerSmith 2 - http://www.beersmith.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  17. "Kealia" post=369674 said:Don't toss the yeast. If there was an infection I have a hard time thinking it's from the yeast - and you'd know it from the taste (there wouldn't be a question about it). Your priming agent isn't going to make a difference, sorry. It's just like newer brewers who want to est priming with honey, corn sugar, table sugar, etc. The quantities are so small it's not going to give you the results you desire If you want to add body I think you have a few choices: 1) Malto-dextrine 2) Do a small batch of high-gravity beer and blend them Hey, you could always blend this with the batch that got stuck, right? I know you got that one unstuck, just trying to make light of this for ya. How much. Malto dextrine would you add? After doing the hydrometer calibration, I had a fg of 1.008
  18. "Brewbirds" post=369669 said:Would it help if he primed with DME? I didn't think about that. I have one pound of wheat dme sitting somewhere. Maybe that would be perfect since it is a wheat beer?
  19. I guess I'm going to cold crash and keg it. Question is, should I go the priming sugar route and let it sit for a month or two? I'm just afraid that the damn thing might ferment out further if there is an actual problem with the yeast (infection), or do I simply keg it, force carb it and let it sit the fridge for a month?
  20. For those saying that it will be a "great lawnmower beer", this is not what you paid for. You paid for a "White IPA" that is not a White IPA, nor is it even close. Also, Lawnmower beers tend to ferment out a lot lower than 1.021 which a lot of people where getting. My guess is, that they intended it to be a White IPA, but screwed it up during the brewing process. This has to be one of the most disappointing batches ever, and I'm pretty easy to please. I'm sure this beer could turn out great as intended with some hop additions.
  21. "haerbob3" post=369659 said:If I remember correctly I think wheat extract is more fermentable that barley extracts So, I'm going to guess that there was some problem with the wheat extract, because according to beersmith, the estimated FG was around 1.016. Either way, I'm going to toss the washed yeast that I have saved, and not risk using it future batches.
  22. "Jim Johnson" post=369652 said:considering the keg will be kept cold, i'd bottle it, seems like it'd condition out faster at room temp.. imo I really don't feel like bottling at this point unless it's directly from the keg using my counter-pressure bottle filler. I thought about just tossing some priming sugar in the keg, and leaving it there for a month at room temp.
  23. "haerbob3" post=369653 said:you could add milk sugar, at this point adding sugar would most likely cause excessive foaming. I would force carb it. Over pitching will not cause over attenuation. There is only so much fermatable sugars available. The yeast can not process sugars that they can not adsorb. The most likely cause is the extract had more fermentable sugars than usual. I'm starting to wonder if the guy at the LHBS gave me the wrong DME, maybe he gave me light instead of wheat? Or maybe I did something wrong in the steeping of the grains?
  24. "Jim Johnson" post=369647 said:i can't think of any way, i say bottle it and wait, you might be suprised. probably take it longer to condition than planned. I'm going to keg it. Maybe I should carb it using priming sugar instead of force carbing??
  25. I can't figure out why it attenuated so much. I'm not sure if over-pitching had something to do with it or not. I did make a really large starter, because I was unsure about how much yeast was in my jar that I had washed. I'm thinking that I might as well dump my remaining yeast jars of 1968. Maybe there was something wrong with the washed yeast. It doesn't taste like an infection, but just an extremely dry beer, light bodied beer with a slight alcohol taste (not bad), and strong hop taste. My next attempt at this clone will be a 2.5 gal all-grain version. I'm hoping that will come out better.
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