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KZ

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Everything posted by KZ

  1. Red wheat and white wheat actually have about the same lovibond; I've used both without noticing any differences. The only difference I know of is the size/hardness of the kernel. Regarding the stout, what was the recipe?
  2. Bottle it; if you have a hydrometer you can check the gravity to make sure fermentation is complete, but after three weeks on a standard refill you can pretty much count on it. Clarity in the keg isn't anything to be concerned with, it will clear in the bottle. Cheers!
  3. A pound of DME is fine, and the 5g yeast pack will be fine. Cheers!
  4. Had a 100% maris otter barleywine at my brew club meeting last night. I love MO and have used it quite a bit but never as the only grain, and I was impressed with how much flavor it had. Helps that the couple that brewed it used 16lb of grain, and that it had been aged for a year.
  5. KZ

    New brew

    "k9dude" post=288318 said: "swenocha" post=288263 said:Did you decide against the raspberry? Recipe looks tasty. With that OG, are you thinking somewhere in a 3.85%ish ABV? Also, I'm not sure that steeping 2-row will really get you much out of it, but the other grains are certainly steepable. What were your steep temps? I didn't do any math regarding IBU... What are you shooting for there? :drinking: +1 Next time if I were you instead of steeping I would do a partial mash. It's basically the same process, you just need to hold the temp and let it soak longer. That way you would get something from the 2 row. By steeping it you get next to nothing, but by mashing you can get those sugars out of it. Plus it'll bump that ABV up a bit (not alot but some). Overall it sounds like a good brew! Wish you luck and let us know how it turns out. He basically did a mini-mash without intending too. A good bit of the conversion will be done within the first 30 minutes, but without good temp control (shooting up to 160) and no sparge the efficiency would have been poor.
  6. Welcome! :chug: A little more info on what you brewed, please. Were these HME+booster recipes? The little bit of sugar added for priming should not impact flavor. That being said, cutting back on the priming amount is fine...the MB guidelines for priming are on the high side. Anyway, without having anything to go by I'd guess the cidery flavor is a combination of adjuncts (non-malt ingredients...i.e. sugar or booster) and too little time. Wait a few weeks before the next sample and the flavor should be much improved. EDIT: If you haven't already, I'd recommend reading this and this.
  7. KZ

    hopville

    Yes, I've used it for quite some time, and I know others here use it as well. Like Trollby said they recently overhauled it, and now that I've gotten used to the new format I like it and like the additional functionality they've added.
  8. "Brewsus Yeast" post=288078 said:I bottled my Winter Dark last night. FG 1.012. It didn't taste as good as I had hoped. It was very dry and bitter. Perhaps that bitterness will condition out, but I didn't get any of the caramel/toffee I was expecting. I didn't get much in the way of hops flavor/aroma, either. Just bitter. :S How did everyone else's turn out? Honestly I'm not too surprised...when I saw an IBU of 60 (if it's legit) I thought that was pretty high for the style and gravity. The BU:GU is going to read really high, same with the Diablo...almost like they were purposely overhopped so that an additional DME/LME addition would temper them a bit (a la the deluxe refills).So that's what I did - added a pound of LME to the Diablo and a touch of finishing hops and a pound of LME to the Winter Dark. Even so the hydro sample of the Diablo was bitter...haven't tried the Winter Dark yet, but I'm hoping I've balanced it a bit.
  9. For an IPA, I would boil about half the chips for 10 minutes, then add after primary fermentation for a week or two as a start and see if you like the results. If you plan to secondary you can use less chips/more time. Definitely agree with FIT - I love bourbon barrel beers and have made a number of them, though I don't think it goes with an IPA. Save that for a stout, dark Belgian, porter, strong ale, etc. FWIW, I have a container of oak cubes soaking in bourbon at all times so I always have some on hand. They've usually soaked for several months between uses. I believe the sulfite solution is being used as a sanitizer. Cheers!
  10. First things first - what type of batch are you looking to make? All Mr. Beer products? Extract + steep? All grain?
  11. Looks good, hope it turns out well! :chug:
  12. Thanks for sharing, I've thought about trying to clone it...it is indeed an awesome beer that drinks way bigger than the gravity suggests. Cheers!
  13. I would think something like the dark winter ale would be a better base, but that's your call. I will say to go *very* easy on the cloves. It does not take much to overpower the whole beer. Cheers!
  14. "Gizmo" post=287245 said:I wish I could just do full volume BIAB, but my 16qt pot is just not big enough. I've done full volume traditional BIAB, and have much better luck doing it similar to you. I use a more traditional mash thickness then a separate batch sparge and get much better efficiency this way.
  15. "pghFred" post=287242 said:KZ - I think I can handle that. Thanks again for the advice. I'll post again after brew-day with any updates/mistakes/successes. Sounds good, just re-read my post...corrected my pre-coffee math.
  16. Off the cuff, I'd cut the maris otter down to 4lb, which would give you 6lb of total grain. If you aim for 2 gallons of top up you need around 3.5 gallons pre-boil. If you use about 9qts for the mash (1.5 qt/lb) you can use about 2 gallons for the sparge to hit the pre-boil volume. If you do a late addition with the extract (4lb of maris otter LME should give you about the same OG as the original recipe, efficiency dependent) you should have a similar boil gravity as the original recipe as well, so you should be able to use a similar hop schedule (it'll need to change some because of the difference in volumes, so run the numbers and tweak as needed). Does that make sense? Cheers! EDIT: Sorry, coffee hasn't kicked in, corrected bad math
  17. "Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=287111 said:You could steep 6 to 8 ounces of Chocolate 350L specialty grain for 30 minutes in 155-160 degree water. This will add head retention, mouthfeel and impart color and some flavor. Midwest Supplies says "Chocolate malt will give your beer a warm, nutty, chocolate-like flavor. Just a few ounces in a batch will impart a slight brown color. Use up to a pound in porters and stouts and dark lagers." They are of course talking about 5 gallon batches when they say to use a pound so that's why you dail it back to 6 to 8 ounces. :borg: That is an option, but remember the porter by itself is low gravity and already has black patent, chocolate, or some unknown combination of roasted malts in it. So go easy, those dark roasted malts can get overpowering. I'd do no more than a couple of ounces the first time around to make sure it's not overdone.
  18. You could do something like this, but personally, I would just do the porter with the robust LME. I haven't made it, but I would imagine it would be pretty decent and would give you a baseline. I made an American porter with the old creamy brown UME and the aroma and hydro sample were encouraging (I made it as a barrel aged lager and it'll be a few more weeks before I take a taste test).
  19. "goblin" post=287089 said:would LME do the same as two row? in getting the enzymes to work. not sure if this will help. brew-on No, the enzymes are denatured via boiling (actually prior to that, but it's irrelevant when exactly once you've boiled the wort).
  20. "pghFred" post=287091 said:Thanks for the input. One other question - Do I have to do a full 5 gal boil or can I get away with a 2-3gal boil and top off in the fermenter? You can, but you'll need to adjust the hop boil because the hop utilization will be different. You will also have efficiency issues because you won't have enough water volume to sparge properly (if at all) If you want to do a partial volume boil I'd recommend doing a partial mash. Cheers!
  21. Yes, there is an upper limit, but three weeks is perfect. Normally you don't need that long, but it's a good window to plan for, and as noted even if fermentation is done, the yeast are still working. Cheers!
  22. Looks very trubby...was that the VERY first pour from the spigot? Note that trub will often get plugged up inside the spigot, so the first ounce or two out will not be indicative of the rest of the batch. You might want to let a little bit more run out till it starts running clear(er) and then sample. I'd be surprised if you weren't at terminal gravity by now, but it won't hurt anything to go another few days to a week to make sure. Cheers!
  23. "T8r Salad" post=286703 said: "oly" post=286677 said:Every time I've tried using the forum the last couple weeks, it has been the slowest loading website I visit. I don't believe it's my service or computer, other sites load instantly between pages. Anyone else having this problem? I wonder if this might be the problem or if it affects the site at all... "In total there are 1297 users Online :: 33 Members and 1264 Guests" Phantom guests or ghosts or trolls, whatever the h-e-l-l you call them. I sincerely hope not...that would mean they're running this thing on an old TI-81 calculator. I have noticed periodic slowness too, and a stop/refresh usually fixes it.
  24. "myndflyte" post=286696 said:Probably the most crucial part of the yeast pitching is having the right wort temperature. If the yeast are alive, they'll find the sugar to snack on. True, but pitching rate and aeration are right there too. The goal is to get fermentation started as quickly as possible, and as furiously as possible. If you are working with dry yeast, in my experience proper rehydration makes a big difference. If working with liquid or harvested yeast a starter makes a big difference.
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