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Christ872

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Posts posted by Christ872


  1. Hey everyone~

    Anyone have a really good recipe for a Mild?? I don't really recall having many to drink and would be interested in giving this style a shot. Thanks in advance


  2. I echo jsherman's response.

    When you get a chance to get more fermenters...do so. Depending on your drinking habits, you'l build a great pipeline.

    With an LBK filled to about 2.3 gallons, you'll get roughly 21 or 22 bottles per batch. If you brew every week or even every-other-week...by the time you get ready to crack your first, you'll have the makings of a good pipeline.


    beginning of Week 1 - brew batch
    beginning of Week 2 - brew 2nd batch
    beginning of Week 3 - brew 3rd batch
    end of Week 3 - bottle first batch (and if you want...begin 4th batch)


    When you get to Week 7, you're ready to open your first of 22 beers.
    When you get to Week 8, you have your send batch of 22 beers + any of the first 22 you didn't drink that week.

    If you get 3 fermenters rolling like that...you'll be, as my good friend says, awash in a sea of beer.


  3. "Jim Johnson" post=388682 said:

    fwiw amber bottles don't stop skunking just slows it down. so I keep my brown bottles in boxes, just like my green ones. don't really what bottles you use, unlike commercial beers, ours aren't on display. they come out only to be drank.

    True. I even do some bottling in the clear bottles. So long as you keep it cover/out-of-UV light...it should hold off the skunking. Although I wouldn't necessarily advocate clear bottles as a main...having one or two (and I guess you can use it as a easy-colorview look-see) isn't going to hurt. Like was said, just make sure you keep it out of light as best humanly possible.


  4. Manowar~

    I've had the Dingo there at MadFox. I liked it. Wasn't thrilled, but did like it. I would echo BigPapaG's thoughts about what Galaxy brings forward. It's a nice hop...for me moreso on the aroma than the flavor.

    The description on Midwest says:

    Often used as a late addition for flavor and aroma. Developed and grown solely in Australia.
    Development: Brewing Usage.
    Usage: Dual purpose
    Aroma: Distinctive citrus and passion fruit character
    Alpha Acids: 13.5 — 14.8%

    A 14%-ish hop is going to bring a lot of IBUs...so an IPA or Double IPA is best.

    The Wyeast 1056 or the WhiteLabs WLP001 are good here (US-05) if you're going dry yeast. I don't remember how full it was...but here's another option:

    White Labs California Ale V WLP051

    From Northern California, this strain is more fruity than WLP001 (California Ale), and slightly more flocculent. Its attenuation is lower, resulting in a fuller-bodied beer than with WLP001.


    The LHBS in Falls Church does carry Galaxy...just FYI


  5. #1 suggestion...if you have a small shot glass or even if you don't...when you're ready to bottle do one...maybe 1 1/2 small quick squirts...this should clear out any trub around the spigot.

    At that time you're ready to bottle.

    Make sure your bottles are cleaned and sanitized. The beer should be clear...although there might be some chill haze. That will clear...so no worry. You should have very nice golden color.

    From my experience...what I do is take it out of the fridge early in the morning and give it a few hours to warm a little (this depends on if you're taking a FG reading). If you are going to take a FG reading...I'd suggest doing it after about 8 of the 12 oz glass bottles or 2 or 3 of the 1L bottles. I always think this is the most optimal FG reading you'll get. FG should be measured around 68-72 degrees or whatever temp you're conditioning at.


  6. "Incognitum" post=387505 said:

    Thanks for the advice. I've never tried Summit, but I am changing this recipe every time I brew, until I get something I really like.

    Right now I'm adding orange peel to the boil, but I'm not getting as much orange flavor as I wanted. I was going to add more orange peel, but I'll give your hops a try next time and see how that works.

    What does the Carabelge do for your steep? I've never used additional grains in my wheat.

    Oddly, I'm getting no head retention on this beer. It's only been a couple weeks in the bottle, so maybe that will be improve, but I always thought Wheat was great in head retention.


    Mark~

    I came across Carabelge looking for another grain...but with it being a cara malt I thought it would be similar (in terms of head retention) as what a CaraPils would offer. I also wanted a little more color than CaraPils. Since CaraPils is around 2 SRM...the 14 SRM on the CaraBelge was a positive fit to add some color but not too much.

    Carabelge® gives beer mild, restrained notes of caramel and a honey-colored hue. It is often used for Belgian specialty beers, Belgian blondes, Belgian browns, Belgian ambers, tripels, and dubbels. The usage rate is 1-30% of the total grain bill.
    14L

    The "mild/restrained notes of caramel" are really restrained. You don't get any of it in the amount I used in that beer. I would say that "honey-colored" is a fair assessment. The 9 oz (in my version) still only brought my beer up to a 6 SRM...and I'd say that is an accurate color. Sometimes too much wheat can be...too much. So the Carabelge here toook a lot of that edge off. At least for my taste.

    I like that you went with US-05...but (if you haven't) take a look at the WLP 320 American Hefe. No clove or banana...and that's exactly what I wanted. I swore off wheats due to clove/banana until I found this. US-05 works fine and is clean...so there's no issue. Just another idea.

    Here's the Austin Homebrew notes on Summit:
    Summit boasts high alpha acid values. Summit is a dwarf variety grown using a low-trellis system. Dwarf hops are picked gently in the field unlike their taller cousins, which must be cut and transported. Dwarf varieties are of the highest quality. Recent trials have discovered strong orange and tangerine citrus notes in this hop's flavor. Ideally suited for brewing American style IPAs and Double IPAs, Summit is an excellent bittering hop.

    My suggestion would be to use it in a flavor or aroma boil. It is a high alpha hop...so use it with restraint. I think I used less around 0.6 oz at both the 22 minute and 7 minute marks and my IBU ended upward of 69. You can scale it to your needs.

    I used the Orange Peel almost as a dry hop in an attempt to boost the aroma end. It's a thought.


  7. "Incognitum" post=387502 said:

    Chris, I'm Incognitum on BrewToad, same as here. I'll try to track you down.

    I found you. So, you're talking about the Kayle's Ale.

    I'm sure you looked at the possibilities...but in a future version of this Ale, maybe take a look at a hop called Summit. It's supposed to have a definite Orange/Tangerine presence. I think that would play really well with the bitter orange peel you have in there. There's also a German hop called Smaragd which is said to have some Orange Marmalade which might work also.


  8. Incog~

    What's your brewer name on Brewtoad...or something on there (recipe name) so that I can look at it? I'll follow your stuff there.

    Yeah, I do agree with you regarding the extra hops. While it might be "in style" as it stands, I can understand and agree with your doing the extra hop there.

    Take a look on mine...or search my Wheat-O's Peak recipe on BrewToad. That one turned out perfect and is exactly what I wanted in my American Wheat.


  9. jbags~

    I think...in principle...you're right. Many beers do ferment in the 2 weeks. Definitely not the 7 days Mr. Beer suggests. But the SUGGESTION of 3 weeks is a blanket to make sure all fermentation is complete, all clean-up is also resolved and to give the brewers the best chance to ensure they're getting the best quality they can.

    I would say probably 85-90% of the beers will be good to roll in 14 days...but why not be 100% sure and go 21 days (or something close to that). As MOST...not all but most....Mr. Beer brewers are newer-to-brewing folks, I believe there have been a lot more people erring on the side of caution and being pleasantly surprised with the end result.

    If you're hitting your FG in 15 days...why let it sit?? Certainly no need to extend it. But you've also extended a long ways beyond where most folks here are at in their brewing hobby. Safer than sorry is the preferred approach around here.


  10. Ingredients (Specified by brewmasters)

    Malts:
    Wheat and Pale

    Hops:
    Cluster


    Other:
    Coriander

    =============

    Sunset Wheat Clone
    American Wheat


    Type: All Grain
    Date: 5/30/2008
    Batch Size: 5.50 gal
    Brewer: Loot
    Boil Size: 7.39 gal Asst Brewer:
    Boil Time: 60 min Equipment: Brew Pot (15 Gal) and Igloo/Gott Cooler (10 Gal)
    Taste Rating(out of 50): Brewhouse Efficiency: 75.00
    Taste Notes:

    Ingredients

    Amount Item Type % or IBU
    4.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 50.00 %
    4.00 lb Wheat Malt, Ger (2.0 SRM) Grain 50.00 %
    0.50 oz Cluster [7.00 %] (60 min) Hops 12.4 IBU
    0.50 oz Cluster [7.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
    1.10 items Whirlfloc Tablet (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
    1.25 oz Blueberry Extract (Bottling 5.0 min) Misc
    7.00 gm Coriander Seed (Boil 5.0 min) Misc
    1 Pkgs San Francisco Lager (White Labs #WLP810) Yeast-Lager


  11. On top of the other advice/recommendations provided - although there are some yeasts and situations where the yeast can ferment a beer in 7 days or less (for example WLP090 White Labs San Diego Super Yeast) you have to consider the clean up and be patient. The 7 days suggested is a bare minimum...we (through experience) advise people to go 3 weeks...let fermentation do its job, let clean up do its job, and then be safer than sorry.

    Although the directions suggest the minimum time as 7 days...anything worthwhile is worth giving more than the bare minimum. Whether that be work, life in general, or beer...never put in minimum effort. ;)


  12. Big Floyd~

    Thanks!! That's good notes.

    Yeah, although they're two different companies...I don't think the hops or malt makeup would be different enough to make a difference.

    I can definitely drop the Special Roast to 6 or 7 oz. I do want the biscuit flavor...but I want it more as an additional flavor than a domineering one. I would tend to think Vienna side-by-side with the toasty biscuit of the Special Roast would work (hoping so).

    I'm not using the Mr. Beer yeast here. I may have a sachet of Nottingham...will have to look. If I don't I was going to go with a California WLP001 as a clean yeast which will let the flavors of the beer do their own work. I can probably get my temps in the 65-68-ish range.

    Thanks for the help.


  13. I may have typed it in wrong, but I'm not getting any hits on my searches.


    Does anyone have any idea about combining one of the new Standard Series - Octoberfest Lager and one of the old Octoberfest Vienna Lager???

    I would tend to believe that they would be similar...but different. Hopefully not too different.

    Also...would this combo be a good setting for me to have about a 10 oz Steep of Special Roast??


  14. Maduro Clone 1

    http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/maduro-clone


    Maduro 2

    http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/winstons-maduro-herfest


    Based on what I see....
    I would suggest getting a 3Lb container of Maris Otter from Northern Brewer
    Chocolate looks like it belongs and also some Brown malt or darker Cara malt...maybe a CaraBohemian
    Goldings and Fuggle seem to be the hops of choice
    Both use: YEAST STRAIN: 1450 | Denny's Favorite 50

    This terrific all-round yeast can be used for almost any beer style, and is a mainstay of one of our local homebrewers, Mr. Denny Conn. It is unique in that it produces a big mouthfeel and accentuates the malt, caramel, or fruit character of a beer without being sweet or under-attenuated.
    ..............if you can't get the Wyeast 1450, I hear the best White Labs sub is going to be WLP051...California V

    Definitely Oatmeal...and I'd go on the higher side with it too.

    You could hit up Wayne...head Brewer over at Cigar City:
    wayne@cigarcitybrewing.com


  15. I agree with Rickbeer regarding the 3 weeks as opposed to 2. Two should be fine...but 3 would have provided any final clean up. It won't turn out like turd at 2...but 3 is just a general rule of thumb.

    As for the cold crashing, I tend to prefer to cold crash - everything except fruit and wheat beers. It's not "necessary"...but can certainly help in terms of getting everything to compact and settle...which should aid in a clearer pour at bottling.


  16. "Ser Stein" post=381782 said:

    So after 6 weeks of conditioning my Diablo IPA with added 1.3 cups honey (ya, I know, not good to add that) is really tasting more like a nut brown ale (a lot like Newcastle). Really weird.


    So...is that good or bad or just a general statement? Aside from the honey, which you addressed, it looks like just a statement of fact. And I guess if you like Newcastle, then good.


  17. Yeah, I've used Zythos. I did a

    http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/zythos-elixir

    note that the Szech Saaz is not saaz - but rather a numbers filler for the Mr. Beer HMEs

    The aroma was great, but I would agree with Mashani on the aroma/flavor boils. The 40 minute bitterness boil left some grassiness and didn't benefit the beer. Course I also think my dry hop may have been too long too.

    Very nice smelling hop. I would think it would make more sense in a lighter beer.

    I didn't get as much out of it as I would have liked, but 90% of that is due to my procedures/recipe. I will use it again with a different gameplan next time.


  18. I would urge you to be a lot hesitant with the Black Patent. My experience tells me that it's a nasty grain and astringent. Although the documentation says that the astringency is "slight"...I think if you're going Black Patent for a color adjustment, there are better grains for that, such as a Carafa or the like.

    I think that German medium crystal should be a nice complexity touch.


  19. Yeah, Rick's right about where the comment should go AND for the original poster to be a little bit patient in our responding.

    Unfortunately, I don't do cider...but I would assume that if you just enter the word cider in the search space...I believe there's probably a bunch of other cider recipes. I bring this up because it might help you determine if yours is somehow out of whack while waiting for a response.


  20. I apologize if this is outside of what you're looking for...but I really like using liquid yeast. Now, I prefer WhiteLab personally...but Wyeast is good too. What you should come to find is that I think you have a little more specialization with liquid yeast. Depending on what you're shooting for that could mean a world of difference.

    Let's take, for example, a British Ale yeast.

    WhiteLabs has:

    White Labs Austin Homebrew English Ale Yeast Blend WLP085
    White Labs British Ale WLP005
    White Labs Dry English Ale WLP007
    White Labs English Ale WLP002
    White Labs London Ale WLP013
    and even
    White Labs Platinum Essex Ale WLP022

    You really have the luxury of tailoring beers to your taste or desired outcome. For example, if you want a more crisp English beer with a higher ABV...go with WLP007 as opposed to a something which leaves the beer a little more full and sweet like WLP002.

    Understand what ATTENUATION is. Attenuation (in rough terms) is what of the wort will convert. As a standar...you should figure 75%. Attenuation is a measure of how much of the sugar in the wort has been fermented by the yeast. And this is where your alcohol or ABV comes into play. So...a yeast which coverts 75% will make a beer with a slightly lower ABV than something that converts 80%. WLP002 runs roughly 63-70% whereas WLP007 runs roughly 70-80%.

    Example:

    OG = 1.050

    On a normal 75% standard...your ABV should be roughly 5.0 -to- 5.1% ABV. The WLP002 at 67% would produce a beer around 4.5% ABV...whereas the WLP007 at 80% would give you a beer around 5.3% ABV. Both strains are said to have a similar flavor profile...but the WLP002 would give you a bit more sweetness whereas the WLP007 would be more crisp.

    As far as brewing temps...I strongly advise you to put in some research on the yeast you employ. They may all vary.

    For example, WLP085 is optimal from 68-72 whereas WLP005 is optimal 65-70 and WLP013 is 66-71. Information like this is particularly important depending on your personal process and what temps at which you ferment.

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