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Everything posted by Christ872

  1. Robert~ Whatcha making first?? Welcome. Read, learn, participate, and enjoy.
  2. Beerlord~ I think you make a good point in regard to the SMaSH versus having something with a little more variety to it. But here's my question...do you (or anyone reading this) have any concern about the flavors of steeped grains affecting the taste of a hop/beer prior to really gathering what the hops bring??? When you add a grain like Crystal 30L or Crystal 40L...I read the description as: "has a medium toffee-like caramel sweetness". If you have a hop which is supposed to bring Mint or Blackberry or Pine or whatever...a hop you're not familiar with...do you have any concern about the influence of "medium toffee" on top of it?? Again, not sure it would matter, especially at a low percentage, but I would think you'd want something as clean and one-note as you can get to really grasp the entirity of what the hop brings to the table. I'm curious what people think about that??
  3. It's not necessary, but when I do my dry hopping, I get some sanitized steelies to add weight to the bag. My intent is to get the bag to dry to the bottom under the assumption that all of that aroma from the hops would go up and therefore spread throughout the beer. Again, it's not necessary, but it works well for me.
  4. Bravo. Thanks everyone. I really appreciate it. I'll throw a handful of them in the fridge tonight. Glad I asked.
  5. Morning everyone! Have a question about and English IPA that I made. I brewed this up on 3/16 and bottled somewhere around the 4/6 weekend. 3Lb Maris Otter LME 7 oz Victory 7 oz Special Roast 0.75oz Styrian Golding @ 60 0.50oz Mosaic @ 22 0.50oz Mosaic @ 7 1oz Mosaic @ 5 days dry hop WLP007 My final stats: OG - 1.047 FG - 1.010 SRM - 13 IBU - 59 ABV - 4.9 Since I bottled on 4/6, when do you think would be a decent time to test a 1st bottle??? I'm thinking this weekend...but I'd like to get some feedback. For some reason, I have 6/30 written on the box to try it...but something has me thinking I should be trying one sooner. Any thoughts would be appreciated!! *** And I apologize, this my not be truly to style, but it's what I wanted to work with here.
  6. "ChizzleD" post=371678 said:When boiling hops for the purpose of bittering is it better to use a lower AA% or a Higher AA% will a lower AA be less harsh then a High AA% what are the pros and cons to each? Not sure if this is answering your question...or maybe just something to bear in mind. I think it's important to have an idea of where you want to end up. If your recipe calls for 30 or 40 IBU...how are you going to achieve a 13%AA hop at 60 minutes and still leave room to manage flavor and aroma hop IBUs. The answer is maybe 1/10th of an oz. Unless you have designs on using the remainder of that elsewehere, what are you going to do with an open bag of hops that still has 80 or 90% of the pellets left. As an example, if you have a beer with a 1.050 OG. A basic straight 2.5Lb of DME Golden Light. In order to get an IBU of 30-50....if I use 0.15oz of a 12%AA Horizon, I get 17.8 IBUs. If I use 0.20oz of the same 12% AA Horizon, I get 23.7 IBUs. At 0.20 oz (23.7 IBUs) ...you only have 7 to 25 IBUs left to split between Flavor and Aroma.
  7. Although I'm not familiar with the Randy Mosher article on this...I agree wholeheartedly. ESPECIALLY when dealing with a Mr. Beer sized batch. I do like a lot of flavor and aroma from hops...so if I have a beer with a 1.050 to 1.060 OG I'm looking at 40-75 IBUs to suit my tastes on a Pale Ale or IPA. If you use a 12 or 14% AA hop at a 50 or 60 minute boil, you're really up $#!75 creek In terms of leaving room for plenty of flavor and aroma. My bigger concern is less about "cat pee" but more about the balance of my beer. If I am going to get 25-30 IBUs from flavor and aroma when I only need 60 IBUs...then my bittering backbone has to be managed appropriately. Part of it, I guess, is also laziness and money-wise. If it only takes 0.1 or 0.15oz of a 12 or 14% AA hop at 60...I'm not going to waste it. If I have a 1oz bag of a 12% AA hop and a 1oz bag of a 7% AA hop...I'd much rather get use a full bag or majority of the bag if I'm going to go through the trouble of opening it up.
  8. FLOutlander~ A couple quick notes. Looks like you have a good idea in regard to brewing; however there are a couple head's up for future knowledge. I see you did not add the HME (Aztec) prior to boiling....that's good. I see you only added 1/2 of the Light LME -- In the future I would highly suggest you boil the entire Light LME. The reason being that PRIME hop utilization comes with a wort of 1.030 to 1.040. Based on the look of it, your 250g of Light LME comes up short of that...simply meaning you may not get as much utilization out of the Hallertau. Based on a Hallertau AA of 4.4%, it look like this beer will have around 30-32 IBUs. The FYI here is that the BU:GU ratio is right at 0.50. Since it's almost perfectly center...use this as a gauge whether that level of BU:GU ratio works for you. BALANCE is on the palate of the beholder. For me, a beer doesn't really balance until around 0.63. Based on a normal Mr. Beer yeast...Foothiller is correct. At 74% Attenuation, this should reach 1.016 FG. Things to note...the quality of yeast, the fermentation temp, and other factors may contribute to true FG being slightly better or worse.
  9. http://hopville.com/recipe/1417713 This is fantastic. One of my best yet.
  10. I bought the Alaska Amber clone and it turned out very, very good. I also bought a clone by Sin City, but have not yet made it.
  11. "mrblase" post=370394 said:I was going to bottle my White IPA tonight and took a final hydro sample, which I assumed would be the same as the one I took last Saturday but I was surprised to see that it is now lower at 1.012 from 1.016. :banana: I only used half of the yeast supplied as I don't like to over pitch. One thing that I did was to add a teaspoon of honey at the end of the first week to give the yeast something to munch on after the initial fermentation and it seem''s to have worked. The sample tasted and had better aroma with the addition of the cascade dry hop which I addeed on Saturday. I'll check again this week end and hopefully the FG will be the same as today and I'll be able to bottle. Good tip. I'll employ this strategy.
  12. So, here's a question...I am reading that I really want to bump up the hops in both flavor and aroma. Curious how I could do that without boiling the HME. The obvious answer would be to boil dome DME as a platform for the hops...but I'd rather not make it any bigger that the 6.2 or whatever it is. Hmm???
  13. "mashani" post=369871 said: at least to me a 1.06+ beer no matter what it tastes like, is not a good lawnmower beer. Oi! Depends on how big your yard is and if you got a ride-on mower. lol
  14. Nice work. Great to see that you both are having so much fun with this hobby. Awesomeness!!
  15. "jsherman" post=369059 said: So here is what I made: 1-Bavarian HME 1-Canadian HME 1-Booster 2-Yeast packets 1. I have figured this as 6% (2.3+2.3+1.4). Is that correct? You figured wrong. Although 2.3% ABV was the Mr. Beer info on those cans...I don't think anyone ever got above a 2.1. So...adjust your figure to 2.0-to-2.1 The booster was actually closer to 1.2 or 1.3....NOT 1.4. If you have a hydrometer...I'd bet you're closer to 5.3 or 5.4...not 6.0
  16. Simcoe...I can take it or leave it. No big whoop. But Amarillo, gots to have it.
  17. dond~ Ah. Sorry. It looks like we - as a Borg - missed this one. We should have told you. Honey WON'T contribute to a honey taste. In fact the only taste you'd get from honey is if were a specialty honey like Buckwheat Honey or Orange Blossom Honey. If you truly want the flavor of honey, you should be using Honey Malt. I've never used Ginger in a beer...so I don't know the issue with that spice in beer.
  18. You are absolutely correct that Mr. Beer instructions are not always full and complete. But in this instance...the "wrong" is in the use of the word Lager...not the temp. All Mr. Beer products are intended to be Ales as opposed to Lagers. So, the use of the yeast and fermenting/carb/condition at Ale temps is correct. You can...if you so choose...try to brew it as a Lager, but use your own Lager yeast. But what comes with the refill or recipe is an Ale.
  19. "ChizzleD" post=368215 said:Your hydrometer should read around 1.008 at 66*. If it is still sweet tasting it might need more time in the LBK but, the hydrometer will be a better choice to go by. How are you figuring your ABV? the ABV on the hydrometer is for wine not beer. ChizzleD~ Yeah, I was thinking that as well. Don't use the ABV numbers on the Hydro. At this stage, without a FG, there's no way to calculate ABV. Subtract the final gravity from the original gravity and multiply the difference by 131. (OG - FG ) x 131 = ABV For example, a Mr. Beer Standard refill which starts with a 1.032 OG and ends with 1.008 would be: 32-8 = .024 x 131 = 3.144 or 3.1% ABV Curious if timmsram had taken an OG.
  20. Brewbirds~ Bravo. Nice question. No one else thought about that. A) The biggest you can brew for an LBK is 2.5 gallons. B ) The biggest I (personally) have brewed in an LBK had a 1.106 OG. A very nice, thick Barleywine. I believe you could probably brew a Barleywine of most anysize...but you have to be sure to focus on balancing it with enough hops to even make it drinkable. By definition, an American or English Barleywine can have an OG up to 1.120...but once you start pressing the "big" limit to 9, 10, 11 % ABV...you just gotta be making sure you balance it so that you're not drinking something the consistency of glue.
  21. "finsfan" post=368017 said:I might be able to, there is a small room in my basement that could be kept cold pretty easily. When ranger mentioned the czech pilsner from mr beer i thought he was speaking of the bohemian czech pilsner here: http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/1014/nm/Grand_Bohemian_Czech_Pilsner1 this is the one you guys have tried or was it a previous batch mr beer offered? Yes, this is the one I used in the recipe listed in my post
  22. finsfan~ Are you able to lager? In otherwords, someplace to keep an LBK cold (roughly 48-55 degrees) for about 3-to-4 weeks? If so, here is a Bohemian Pilsner recipe I used which incorporated the Czech Pils. Soooooooooooo good. http://hopville.com/recipe/1417713
  23. I strongly prefer either the Canadian Blonde or the Czech Pilsner. Both can serves as a great base and produce very nice beers by themselves or as a platform to build on.
  24. 12A. BROWN PORTER Ingredients: English ingredients are most common. May contain several malts, including chocolate and/or other dark roasted malts and caramel-type malts. Historical versions would use a significant amount of brown malt. Usually does not contain large amounts of black patent malt or roasted barley. English hops are most common, but are usually subdued. London or Dublin-type water (moderate carbonate hardness) is traditional. English or Irish ale yeast, or occasionally lager yeast, is used. May contain a moderate amount of adjuncts (sugars, maize, molasses, treacle, etc.). ========== Based on the English or Irish Ale yeast note - There is WLP002, WLP005, and WLP007 WLP007 is my personal go-to. ================== White Labs English Ale WLP002 This is a classic ESB strain that originated from one of England's largest independent breweries. This yeast is best suited for English-style ales, including milds, bitters, porters, and English-style stouts. This yeast will leave a beer very clear, and will leave some residual sweetness. White Labs British Ale WLP005 This yeast is a little more attenuative than WLP002 (English Ale). Like most English strains, it produces malty beers. It is an excellent choice for all English-style ales including bitter, pale ale, porter, and brown ale. White Labs Dry English Ale WLP007 This is a clean, highly flocculent, and highly attenuative yeast. It is similar to WLP002 (English Ale) in flavor profile, but is 10% more attenuative. This eliminates the residual sweetness, and makes the yeast well suited for high gravity ales. It reaches terminal gravity quickly. 80% attenuation will be reached even with 10% ABV beers.
  25. eboucher~ I looked through a few clone recipes listed at Austin Homebrew. Here are the yeasts I see: Yuengling Porter - WLP830 German Lager Stone Smoked Porter - WLP002 English Ale Sierra Nevada Porter - WLP001 California Ale Smuttynose Robust Porter - WLP002 English Ale Longtrial Imperial Porter - WLP001 California Ale Rogue Mocha Porter - WLP051 California V Founders Porter - WLP001 California Ale Hoepfner Porter - WLP830 German Lager Stone Darth Porter - WLP820 Oktoberfest/Marzen Lager That's just an example, but it looks to me like there's no real "special" yeast.
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