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Christ872

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Everything posted by Christ872

  1. In short, yes. Dry hopping with Willamette would work great. Love the recipe. Simple, but great.
  2. Can you? Sure. What strikes me is that the 1Lb of Wheat DME only really comes to about 30-40% of the malt...so it's really not much of a WHEAT IPA as much as it is an IPA with a wheat component. And can you do a Wheat IPA? Sure. It can work. I have a great one that I hoped the sh00t out of with Summit.
  3. In addition to the above information, which is very imortant regarding the brewing, fermenting and carb/condition information...also be aware that the American Classic (by itself) is only going to be about a 3.0-3.2% ABV beer. So, even once you get that part of the equation down pat, you're still going to be dealing with a beer which is light/watery. Keep that in mind.
  4. You're right. You're not doing anything wrong. And I'm happy you know now. Anytime you run into problems or concerns, just ask.
  5. "bkstang" post=367523 said:I filled the keg to 8.5 l mark so I should be at around 4.7%. American Porter HME is 3.7% and LME -Robust is 1.1%. Why you are saying I'm on track? Maybe I'm not calculating this correctly? Ahh...No. Okay...first off, the Mr. Beer products information is over-exaggerated. They have a bad case of doing that. Always have. Even before the new product line with the Coopers merger. The old ones used to be listed at 2.3% ABV, but you never really got above 2.0. If you look at a normal standard refill can, it is listed at 3.7% ABV. That is wrong. All of the trial and error has proven it to be closer to 3.0-to-3.2%. So, that explains a lot. And the LME is anywhere from 1-to-1.1%. I'm saying you're on track, because if you use the correct numbers (i.e. 3.0-to-3.2) instead of the 3.7 then it explains where the discrepancy is. Your calculations are fine. You're just using the numbers provided by Mr. Beer as opposed to what the numbers really are (based on proven research/brewing). Once you account for that, you're fine.
  6. "bkstang" post=367517 said:My American Porter Deluxe was fermenting for 18 days and the FG is steady at 1.013. My OG was 1.040 so ABV is 3.5% however the description of this beer says it's supposed to be around 4.7% which makes a big difference. I've checked the FG today twice and it is 1.013 so did I make a mistake when checking the OG? If the ABV is 4.7%, the OG should be 1.049 but it was 1.040. The 1 Can American Porter HME is about 3.0-to-3.2% ABV The 1 BrewMax LME Softpack - Robust is about 1-to-1.1% ABV I'd suspect you should be anywhere from 4 to 4.3% ABV on a 2 gallon batch. If you filled the fermenter higher than 2 gallons even, then it could be less. It sounds to me like you're on track. ===== Using hopville, I get 1.042 OG on a 2 gallon recipe, 1.040 on a 2.1 gallon recipe. My PPGs could be off a point on the HME (38) and the LME (36)...so that is the correct ballpark there.
  7. "Beer-lord" post=367496 said:I sometimes add yeast nutrient the last 15 minutes of my boil. I don't always do this and when I do, I can't say I've noticed anything different. That's fair. I have a tendency to add it at about 10 minutes.
  8. In addition to what Brewbirds noted, one additional issue is the fluxuation in temps too. Typically, the temp inside the fermenter can be 2 or so degrees warmer inside than the thermometer strip indicates. So, if your temp strip said 82, it could easily have been 83 or 84. On top of that, the fluxuations in temps will also cause havoc...especially early. If you go 72 to 76 to 83 and then down to 77...it's going to (and pardon my layman's terms) piss the beer yeasties off. Typically, most of the dry Mr. Beer yeasts have a range up to around 74/75 degrees. Once you start exceeding that, it can produce off flavors.
  9. "russki" post=367179 said:Chris, here's what I know: Co-Humulone: hops lower in co-humulone provide softer/smoother bittering than those higher in co-humulone Total Oil: Different oils provide different flavors/aromas - hops higher in oil content are better for flavor/aroma additions Myrcene: myrcene lends distinctive "American" (citrusy) flavor Humulene: lends the distinctive "noble" character Caryophyllene: adds a spicy, herbal character similar to humulene Farnesene: Its effect on flavor and aroma is unknown. More reading: www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Hop_chemistry Russki~ Thanks. That helps a lot. I appreciate it.
  10. Heather Tips Calluna vulgaris It is both the flowers and the greenery of this plant that have been used to impart a pleasing aroma and a smooth bitterness to beers. It is especially appropriate for a Scotch ale known as Fraoch. With a flavor that is similar to a subtle chamomile/mint blend with a hint of lavender, heather pairs well with honey. It's also great for tea. ============== Dried Wormwood Artemisia absinthium Wormwood use dates back to 1600 BC. It is the principal ingredient in the legendary liqueur Absinthe. While used historically as a beverage ingredient, currently the FDA advises against its use due to the presence of thujone, which is a neurotoxin. Though wormwood is still used in the production of vermouth and Campari, it is a variety other than Artmesia absinthium.
  11. Okay guys...help me out on this... Looking at the read out on various hops. Which of these factors contributes to a hop being a good aroma hop and what contributes to being a good flavor hop??? Alpha Acids: Beta Acids: Co-Humulone: Total Oil: Myrcene: Humulene: Caryophyllene: Farnesene: I believe that the Alpha Acids are the number we use for bittering. But which of these do we use to factor flavor and/or aroma???
  12. +1 to Russki's note. It can be astringent and I'd also advised against it too in favor of something like Roasted Barley or even Carafa II (or III)
  13. "RaleighBrewer" post=366374 said:I appreciate the feedback, especially the info about conditioning it for and extra period of time due to the higher ABV. As a general follow-up question, do higher ABV beers require a longer fermentation period, or is that timing still about the same? (which is about 3 weeks usually) If it requires more than 3 weeks, my schedule gets a bit hectic, so I may not be able to bottle until week 4-5 - would there be any hard in letting it go that long? No, the fermentation is the same. Many beers will ferment in about 2 weeks. We will always suggest 3 just to make sure that all the clean-up is done...so 3 weeks in the fermentation is good. No need to go beyond that. Obviously a hydrometer would help...but the 3 weeks is also a good mark for people who don't have the hydrometer. At that point (week 3) there should be no doubts period about it being fermented and all the clean up having taken place. The big deal regarding the time comes on the conditioning. Some beers like wheats or IPA are usually best young. But usually higher ABV beer are high because of the amount of malt in there. In order to truly settle out and have everything condition well...you extend the conditioning time on higher ABV beers. I have hear of stouts and high ABV Barleywine beers taking upward of 6-months or longer. Again...USUALLY the longer a beer conditions the better. Not always, but most of the time. And I would definitely tend to think that would apply to what you have going on here.
  14. Don't worry about it being cloudy. You'll have luck getting it less-so if you cold-crash it for a few days. If you don't plan to cold crash it...it might not be as clear...but that's okay. You'll still have good beer.
  15. "RaleighBrewer" post=365868 said: are there any suggestions or changes I need to make to my process or timeframes? For my previous brews, I have been fermenting for a minimum of 3 weeks and conditioning for at least another 2-3+ (before putting in the fridge) with really good success. In this case, you have the Northwest at about 5% ABV and the Patriot at about 3%. So, you're talking at least an 8% ABV beer. I'd let it condition about 6-to-8 weeks before you even try the first one. It might take longer, but that's where I would start. On the positive side, with the 17 IBUs in the Patriot and the 43 in the Northwest, you're at 60. In a 1.080 beer that should work well. In fact, unless your beer goes above 1.093...you should be fine. Above that and I would suspect it's more sweet than balanced. According to the info...the S-33 would work well here: Fermentis Safbrew S-33 Dry Ale Yeast Safale S-33 is a popular general purpose yeast that displays both robust conservation properties and consistent performance. This yeast produces superb flavor profiles and is used for a varied range of top fermented special beers including Belgian wheats and Trappists. The yeast has excellent performance in beers up to 7.5% alcohol content, but can ferment up to 11.5%. Flocculation: Medium Attenuation: High Ideal fermentation Temperature: 59-75 F (15-24 C)
  16. I would sample about 5 more bottles just to be 100% sure. lol. Just playing. I may be corrected on this, but what you say sounds outside the norm. The best guess on that would be a possibility that you fermented too warm. Fermenting too warm or using too little yeast can cause the yeasties to go bat-$hit and produce some off flavors. Too little yeast would cause the yeast to stress itself and that can lead to fruity or similar off (unintended) flavors http://www.winning-homebrew.com/off-flavors.html
  17. Well, since you have it in...I wouldn't take it out. But then my suggestion would be to take a look at exactly what you're getting out of the 7 C's hop. The 7 C's does mention lemon...but I believe it's far less than the lemon in Sorachi Ace the hop. So whether you want more or less is up to your discretion. If you get more citrus out of the 7C's than lemon...then the lemon zest will be an interesting matchup against the large amounts of various citruses you have going on there. Again, I don't want to talk you out of doing it if you have thought about it. Just thought...to me...that the lemon seemed like a unique branch off when paired with citrus. When I think of taking a sip of orange juice or grapefruit juice, I have a hard time mentally picturing the smell or taste of lemon with it. LOL...could be great...who knows. Just hard for me to envision.
  18. Pat~ That does sound off. An OG of 1.060 may be right. The Northwest by itself should be about 5.1% ABV...so 1.050 + 1.010 for the booster would get you to that point. The FG is where I think you're off. No possible way it could be 1.090. And honestly, unless you had a super yeast, it would be difficult to reach 1.009. The only FG number that would make sense is 1.019. ============ The ABV of the Northwest (according to Mr. Beer) is Northwest Pale Ale A classic US craft style, this pale ale is a rich amber color, with a full malt character. A highly refreshing woodsy hop aroma and clean bite make this beer a standout. It’s a genuine craft classic. Flavor: Hoppy ABV: 5.5%, SRM: 4, IBU: 43 5.5% is an over-estimation, so 5.1%-to-5.3% would be more accurate depending on your water level. 1 thing of booster would bump it up 1%. 6.1-to-6.3. No real way you could be down around 4% ABV.
  19. I bottled this on Sunday - 4/21. The FG turned in at 1.020 (my projection was 1.019...so, I'm pretty good there). Which leaves me at a good 7.5%ABV. The IBUs on this is a measely 52. I was a little worried that it could be very malt heavy...but surprisingly the FG Hydro sample was very good. I have a boatload of Galena as an aroma hop (both in boil and in dry hop) but maybe the next round of this I'll crank up something heavy in the flavor end of things. I wanted to let some of the malt shine through on the flavor end...but I'm happy beause it really opens the door on revisions.
  20. Interesting. The only thing that really strikes me as curious is the 1oz of Lemon Zest. I'm not as familiar with the Falconer's Flight 7 C's, but my thought is it's far less "lemony" than a hop such as Sorachi Ace. With as much orange and marmalade and citrus that you have through the recipe, I would think lemon is a different direction. Not sure if it would be "bad" per se...just seems like a different direction than the bulk of everything else. Curious indeed.
  21. Ok...what you had was more malty than what you like. So, in order to balance the malt, you need bitterness (from hops). A dry hop will add to aroma, but give you nothing...NOTHING...in the added bitterness. Essentially, your beer would be just as malty sweet, but smell better. The profile chart that Jim Johnson provided is a good go-to. While a hop boil for flavor may give you some flavor...it won't add as much bitterness (which you need to balance the malty sweetness) as a bitterness boil. It will give some, but not as much.
  22. Well, first, the WCPA is very accommodating to the citrus/grapefruit type hops. Whether we're talking Cascade, Centenniel, etc...those work well there. Second, if you are talking about the old Mr. Beer WCPA...then that can - by itself - should register about 2.1% ABV and 22 IBUs http://web.archive.org/web/20100531071323/http://www.mrbeer.com/product-exec/product_id/7/nm/West_Coast_Pale_Ale1 You said that you have a Pale LME. If you are talking about the new Mr. Beer LME products, then only 1 will raise your ABV to 3.1% and you still have 22 IBUs. At this stage, any hop boil could make that a really hoppy brew. So here are a few suggestions: 1) Add 1 more Pale LME or DME (to your above proposal) in order to create a situation where you have more flexibility with a hop boil. This should get you closer to 4.2% ABV or so and it will under balance the hops enabling you to have more flexibility in a hop boil PLUS it will add more substance to the beer. 2) Go forward with this as is and - in order to just get a feel for doing a hop boil - only do the boil at 15 (flavor) or 5 (Aroma) minutes and do a very small portion of hops You currently have 0.5 oz of Columbus which you can dry hop for 5 or 6 days. This will bring aroma. Columbus is described as: Aroma: pungent, citrus I would look at the following hops for a 22 minute flavor boil or 7 minute aroma boil (personally I'd err on the side of flavor here...but that's my own personal thought) Cascade Pellet Hops Cascade is an aroma variety with well-balanced bittering potential. It is the most popular hop with the craft brewing industry and is good for dry hopping Aroma: flowery, citrusy, grapefruit ==================== Centennial Pellet Hops Centennial hops are popular among craft brewers, sometimes called a super Cascade. It is typically used in American ales and has also been used with American wheat beers. The hop was named for the Washington State Centennial Celebration. Aroma: floral, citrus =============== Falconer's Flight Pellet Hops This novel proprietary pellet blend is comprised of many of the Northwest’s most unique hop varieties and is perfect for any Northwest-style IPA. Each hop has been hand selected for its superior aromatic qualities, imparting distinct tropical, citrus, floral, lemon, and grapefruit tones. Aroma: tropical, citrus, floral, lemon, grapefruit ============ Pacific Jade Pellet Hops The aroma of this hop is described as “bold” as it delivers a herbal infusion of fresh citrus and crushed black pepper. Brewing trials have illustrated Pacific Jade as an excellent hop that delivers a pleasing soft bitterness matched to desirable aroma characteristics. Suited for use as a bittering hop with some excellent results also being seen in dual purpose applications, with a soft bitterness attributable to the low cohumulone. The citrus aroma and flavor notes work well to temper malt sweetness in “fullish” Ales especially when used moderately as a finishing hop. Pacific Jade is also well suited to balance dryer Lager styles when employed as an “up-front” kettle addition to showcase its bittering qualities. Aroma: bold, citrus, black pepper =============== Smaragd Pellet Hops This hop, also known as Emerald, has fruity and flowery notes. Smaragd is the European response to varieties like Simcoe and Amarillo. It has a more prominent nose than most European varieties, but the fruitiness is more subdued and the overall impression is balanced and refined with a slight nuance of spice. Its medium bitterness allows use in the boil kettle. Also great for dry hopping. It shows hints of lemon and orange marmalade. Great for Ales, Alts, and Kölsch beers. Aroma: fruity, floral =============== Summer Pellet Hops (1 oz) [07165] Summer is a unique seedless aroma hop developed and grown in Australia. Summer provides distinctive light apricot and melon fruit notes nicely balanced by a background hop character which can be used to great effect in many beer styles. Aroma: light apricot, melon fruit In my estimation...any of those might work with the WCPA. Amazing how many ways you could go. YEAHHHH BEER!!!
  23. Mash~ Niiiice. Curious to hear how the Stella translate in the final product. My LHBS did the same thing. They gave me 4 oz of Apollo hops. Just gave it to me. The funny thing is the Apollo is like 20% AA...so I'd be lucky to use 3/4 oz, much less 4 oz.
  24. T~ No. IBUs are IBUs. If you calculate the IBU of a beer to be 39...that is and always will be how many IBUs it has. But...the age of a beer and the various hop oils play a very important and critical point in how the bitterness, flavor, and/or aroma are perceived. Generally speaking, a the flavor and aroma may tend to fade some over time. So, if you brewed a beer with 30 IBUs...and, in that you had 1oz of Cascade as your flavor hop you may taste the Cascade more in 2 months than you might if you held on to the bottle for 1 year....but you'd still have a 30 IBU beer. Should you give a crap? -- Yes and no. For your personal consumption, if you enjoy it...don't sweat it. But yes, it is important to gain a grasp as to when you like your beers. If you use Cascade and really pick up that flavor at the 2 month mark...moreso than at the 6 month mark...then you should care about when you're really getting the best experience out of your beer. And if you end up submitting a beer for competition, it IS! important to keep an eye on your IBUs. A beer style (such as a category 15A Weizen/Weissbierbier) has an IBU range of 8-15. If you try brewing up a Weissbier with 30+ IBUs...you're at risk for getting counted off unless you enter it in the Specialty Beer category.
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