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Everything posted by Christ872

  1. 1st try of the Monica Sweetheart Pilsner tonight. Wow, this is fantastic. The Saaz is spazing out all over the place. When they say that a Bohemian Pilsner must be Saaz...this is. Super proud of myself on this one. Will put this at the head of my repertoire.
  2. Yeah...If you drop 1Lb of the DME and keep everything else...this turns into a very balanced beer, albeit a bit high on the ABV. But that one thing would even it out some.
  3. So...if I'm looking at it right...you OG is upwards of 1.095 (or thereabouts). Your IBU is going to end at roughly 43-45. 23 from the citra and about 20 from the IBUs on the HME. So...if I'm looking at it right, this is VERY!!! malt heavy. And with such a low IBU it might be too sweet to even get close to. And with an OG that high, you might not be able to get next to it for 6 months or so anyway. Mind you, I calculated this for a 2.3 gallon Mr. Beer LBK. If you brew it as a 5-gallong batch, it's a more manageable 1.044OG...but even then your IBUs are way too low for a normal pale ale.
  4. how many IBUs in that Cooper's Draught HME? I'm not familiar with that product. What are the IBU, SRM, etc for that. Hard to give you correct information without all the info.
  5. Well, it's interesting. I guess it's something I'm going to have to try. The general rule is the hops need something (?malt sugar proteins?) to adhere to. And in this instance it's just straight water. And I guess it does make some sense that if you boil something in water...you do get some of those properties. It's not like you can put 1 oz of Cascade in water and expect it to continue to taste like water. You're definitely going to get some of the qualities that Cascade have. And I believe that the purpose of the experiment is to gain knowledge of the quality of those hops. However, what her video does NOT show is the long term stability of this. In other words, if you did your hop boil like this and put it in your wort...in 2 or 3 months when you go to try this beer...is it going to maintain the full effect of those hops evenly throughout your beer?? If you're doing this simply to gain a grasp of the particular hop...you're looking for an immediate answer. You try your sample(s) and the experiment is over. Whereas, if you're making a case of beer that won't be ready for 2 or 3 months..will it have changed since you did not have the hops boil and adhere to the malt sugars. Curious.
  6. Although I like the unconventional idea...I have a hard time wrapping my head around chili and lime. I know it's been done...and been done well. I just have a hard time picturing it. Are you familiar with Sorachi Ace hops? Just curious. Probably more lemon than lime...but interesting if you've not seen it before.
  7. BlackDuck~ I have used the Zythos is a SMaSH. Nice choice. Very good on the aroma. The flavor is good...but not as distinct.
  8. "herobrew" post=362172 said:Will do! Hypothetically: if I were doing this hop boil technique that included a recipe that used an LME, I would also want to save the LME for after the boil is complete and throw it in at the same time as the HME? No. DME and LME are malt extracts without hops. They would be good to boil your hops in. The only thing you really don't want to add to your boil is an HME (HOPPED Malt Extract). A boil of HME will alter the composition of the HME recipe. But since DME and LME are not hopped, they can be boiled and would serve as a great base to boil hops in. Either one or both. The will provide the necessary sugars and whatnot for the hops to adhere to. DME and LME are really no different, the only thing is that the DME has all the water removed out of it. But both would work essentially the same in that regard.
  9. herobrew~ No...that's a legit question. I would mix the Pale DME and Booster and then put the pellet hops in there to boil. To get the most out of the hops, it would be best if the gravity is close to 1.030-1.040...but since all you have is that and the HME...do those two and boil your hops in that. Maybe even 1/4 can of the HME (although this is usually a no-no)...and at the end of the boil THEN add your HME so as not to boil it. Boiling hops in plain water won't do jackdiddleysquat. The hops need the proteins and sugars to adhere to. Get yourself the water, DME, Booster...boil for about 30 minutes. Put your hops in at the 22 minute mark. At the end of the boil, while it's still very hot but not boiling, mix in your HME.
  10. I found the clone recipe on BYO...and since my numbers aren't exact...just using it as an inspiration. Very close, just different enough not to label a true clone. What do you guys think? 2.3 gallons 2Lb 14oz - Munton's Plain Extra Light DME 6 oz Crystal 80L (Steep) 4 oz Carapils (Steep) 3 oz Biscuit (Steep) 0.725 oz. Willamette @ 60 min. 0.55 oz. East Kent Goldings @ 15 min. 0.45 oz. EKG @1 min. Dry English WLP007 Based on the calculations, I should get: 1.054 OG 13 SRM 36.3 IBU 5.5% ABV 1.013 FG Curious if anyone has any thoughts on this. I believe I should have all the components to this at home, so I may be able to do it this weekend. We shall see.
  11. It may be WELL over-the-top, but I'd suggest the Centennial at 22 minutes for flavor and the Cascades as a dry hop addition @ 5-to-7 days to enhance the aroma. My guess is that this might bring your IBU up to about 65-70 or so and really be hop-forward with a nice citrus/pine to it....which is what the Northwest has already.
  12. Northwest = 1.051 OG, 43 IBUs Pale DME = 1.010 OG, 0 IBUs Booster = 1.020 OG, 0 IBUs If you added the full Booster, you start off with a gravity around 1.081. I'd suggest using half of the pouch, which would get you closer to 1.067. The 43 IBUs are in your Northwest can. Centennial Pellet Hops Centennial hops are popular among craft brewers, sometimes called a super Cascade. It is typically used in American ales and has also been used with American wheat beers. The hop was named for the Washington State Centennial Celebration. Possible Substitutions: Cascade, Columbus, Chinook Technical Specifications: Aroma: floral, citrus Alpha Acids: 9.5 - 11.5% ========================= Cascade Pellet Hops Cascade is an aroma variety with well-balanced bittering potential. It is the most popular hop with the craft brewing industry and is good for dry hopping. Beer styles that typically use this hop include American-style ales, especially pale ales, IPAs, porters, and barleywines. Technical Specifications: Aroma: flowery, citrusy, grapefruit Alpha Acids: 4 - 7%
  13. "herobrew" post=361423 said:Are there any guidelines to using multiple UME's with the beginner HME recipes that come with the refills? What are the reasonable limits to how many you can add without ending up with a lot of residual sugar (or is it just a matter of giving plenty of additional fermentation time?) Example Recipe: 1 Pack DME Smooth 1 Pack LME Pale 1 Can HME Northwest Pale Ale .5 oz. Cascade Hops What you are proposing here is a beer with a gravity up near 1.073 or so. No two ways about it...that's a big beer. Also, if you're going to go with the Pale LME, I'd also recommend the Pale DME. The Smooth brings in notes of coffee/toffee and residual sweetness. It would seem to me to contradict everything the Northwest is about. It's going to be sitting in fermentation for 3 weeks and maybe in the bottles for a MINIMUM of 2 or 3 months. Probably closer to 3.
  14. "herobrew" post=361848 said: I'll heed your advice about the brew calculator. Does it let you input Mr. Beer products, or do I need to do any conversions?? Some do. I know Screwy has QBrew which is great with that. I personally use www.hopville.com That has some Mr. Beer products and what it doesn't you can easily improvise. For example, looking at it now, if you tried to pnch in Aztec Mexican Cerveza, nothing pops up...but if you type in Mexican, it does pull up Mexican Cerveza Hopped Extract. Some caluclators will be exact and some will either get you close or give you the tools to work it. For example, when I put in the Mexican Cerveza Hopped Extract, it comes up with a Lovibond (color) of 10 and a PPG of 36. There is an easy edit function where you can change this to shop the Mr. Beer listing of 2 or 3. "herobrew" post=361848 said: When a beer's formula does become malt/sweet heavy, as mentioned below, is the only counterbalance hops? Well, basically, yes. I know that there are other herb products like Heathers which will increase bitterness, but hops is the bitterness to the malt sweetness. Either use more hops or less malt. There is a formula call BU:GU...Bitterness Units to Grain Units. So...if you have an ABV of 3.1 (1.031 gravity) and 13 IBUs (international bitterness units)...then your ratio is 0.42. or 13:31. A beer of this nature would be malt heavy. Using your "idea"...if you added 1Lb of DME and got a gravity of 1.045, you're now looking at a BU:GU ratio of 0.29. 13:45. A ratio of 0.50 is supposed to be "balanced". However, that is also going to be dictated by your palate too. Just like in cooking, one person can consume Cayenne like no tomorrow and other people couldn't be in the same room as a jalapeno without breaking out in a sweat. For me...until a beer gets in the 0.65 range, it's usually a little sweet to me. If you have time, find a commercial beer that you really enjoy. Something you think it balanced. Do a little research on it. If you find your perception of balance to be higher or lower...than you have a starting point.
  15. "herobrew" post=361728 said: But as far as the mechanics are concerned, will everything be okay chemically if one were to just sneak in an extra ume or two? I want to increase the body and flavor of the beer, and I know that doing it with malt is the right way to go. To answer your question...will everything be okay?...maybe, maybe not. As I noted earlier, it requires a little more than just sneaking an extra dme in there. A 1b DME addition of Pilsen Light (using Briess) when added to Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner would raise your ABV to about 4.2 to 4.5. The Pilsen fits here with the flavor of the GBCP recipe. And the GBCP has an IBU of 27. So you're close to being balanced to the extent that a little Saaz at 22 minutes for flavor could work. On the otherhand, A 1Lb DME of Golden Light added to Aztec Mexican Cerveza would raise your ABV to 4.2 to 4.5. It would bolster the flavor and make it more of a store bought flavor and mouthfeel...but if you just stop there, you're only sitting with 13 IBUs. The malty sweetness of this - if you stopped there - is going to be overpowering without a hop addition. ============== I would strongly encourage you to run a recipe by the folks here. There are sections for BASIC RECIPES and ADVANCED RECIPES. Post your idea and one of your peers will give you some educated feedback...this may work better than that, you need this, you shouldn't use that...things of that nature. Ultimately, you're brewing and drinking...and our goal as friends and fellow homebrewers is to see you happy in getting the most out of it.
  16. herobrew~ I would strongly invest in finding a brewing calculator. Something you can punch a recipe into and see where you are at. If and when you go beyond just the normal refill as-is (which you should ascertain first) -- you really need to know how these ingredients are playing together in a recipe. Unlike cooking, brewing has caluclators which really help to flesh out a recipe. For example, I'm not familiar with a COOKING calculator which would tell you how much tomato or ground beef would make a chili too spicy to too meaty. But beer calculators can help in that regard. For example, if you start with a standard Mr. Beer Refill you may start at 3.0% ABV, 11 IBUs and a color of 4 or 5 SRM. 1Lb of DME might SOUND great...but when you put it in the calculator, you now have an ABV of 4.2% and still have an IBU of 11. Now you see that your beer may be starting to get more malt/sweet heavy. I would contend that a majority of us all advance to using DME or UMEs (or even extra HMEs)...but I also think a lot of us also flesh it out to see first.
  17. Here's a nice chart. Click on the beer style at the right and it will give you an idea of where you want to go with the bitterness. http://www.madalchemist.com/chart_bitterness_ratio.html
  18. AO~ I read your post that you'll probably only try for flavor and aroma. Just understand that you need to also make sure that you do bitter your beers. One interesting thing to do is take a look at your BU:GU (bittering unit to grain unit) ratio. According to the information 0.50 is considered balanced...but for each person's tastebuds that falls at different points. For me, a beer doesn't really taste balanced until it gets closer to 0.63 or so. The lower your BU:GU ratio, the sweeter your beer...and the higher, the more bitter. If you look solely at flavor and/or aroma, just make sure you have enough bitterness to make the beer balanced enough for you to drink it. =========== You mentioned Glacier. Nice hop. Here's some information on that: http://www.brew365.com/hops_glacier.php Glacier Pellet Hops USA Glacier is an excellent new variety with balanced bittering properties combined with a good aroma profile. This hop is well suited for a wide variety of beers including pale ales, ESBs, bitters, English-style pale ales, porters, and stouts. Possible Substitutions: Willamette, Fuggle, Tettnang, Styrian Golding Technical Specifications: Aroma: citrus, fruit, herbs, woody Alpha Acids: 5 - 6% Beta Acids: 5 - 9.5% Co-Humulone: 11 - 13% Total Oil: 0.7 - 1.6 ml/100g Myrcene: 33 - 62% Humulene: 24 - 36% Caryophyllene: 6.5 - 10% Farnesene: ...As you can see...this is a nice hop and would fit well with either an American or English Pale ale...but will work in a variety of other styles too. The 5-to-6% AA is low, but good. If you brewed a 5.0% ABV beer...then you'd want at least 25-to-30 IBUs to start getting it balanced (again depending on where balanced is for you).
  19. Bingman~ Interesting question. The one thing I (personally) would hesitate on is the German Wheat yeast. Although you do get that banana...the problem (for me) is that I hate clove so much...and there's as much if not more clove in there.
  20. eboucher~ Not sure if I don't understand your question. There is a topic heading for BASIC RECIPES and another one for ADVANCED RECIPES. In addition, Mr. Beer also has the http://www.mrbeer.com/category-exec/category_id/14 Am I not understanding you?? The BASIC RECIPES and ADVANCED RECIPES sections in this forum usually (but not always) have a the recipes in there...somewhere. ========== If - however - you are referring to the beer listing (click on my Spoiler icon)...then those may or may not be Mr. Beer recipes. Those are more a list of what each brewer has or is working on. In many cases some of those don't even have Mr. Beer components. ....oh and Thank you, as I needed to update mine anyway....
  21. Anyone who likes Tosh is good in my book. And I agree. Trying to drink beer in between fits of laughter is tough. Mind you, I do fight the good fight every Tuesday night...but it is tough.
  22. In speaking about the yeast...I like your idea of S-05 or S-04. No real issue with the yeast which accompanies the Munton's can...but growing up I always had a hesitation on the "mystery meat" at school.
  23. "Sundance" post=361380 said:I may be off base here, but if you want to spend a few more bucks, getting a good liquid yeast would probably help the flavor out, too. From what I've heard and read on this forum, yeast makes just as much if not more of an impact on taste as the other ingredients do. Sundance~ I would agree. Although Hazardous does note that there is a great deal of good in dry yeasts...I have always found more diversity in liquid yeasts. More to the point...the selection of a good yeast (regardless) is often critical in a good brew. You could have great malts, but if you select a yeast that sucks turd...still not going to turn out well. Meanwhile, if you select a "Nothing Special" Pale 2-Row and a great yeast, you could have a great beer.
  24. Wilipepper~ I can of the Classic American is about 3% ABV. That PLUS 1 Lb of DME would bring it up to about 4.2% or so. Now, I did understand that you are in favor of taste over alcohol content...and I applaud that. So, yes, the DME...a Golden Light or Amber DME might work well here. I assume Pilsen might...but I'd go with the heartier Golden Light or Amber. In addition, the Classic American comes with 11 IBUs. 11 is mighty thin. A flavor boil on a hop is best around the 22 minute mark. So adding 1/2-to-3/4 oz of a nice citrus or floral hop would work well. If you're looking at the Mr. Beer hop line -- Cascade, Centenniel or even the Glacier might work well. In fact, you could buy 2 of whatever you pick and then add the second with 5 days left in the fermentation to enhance the aroma side...without messing with the IBUs. ...just might thoughts.
  25. I got the PM last night. I politely emailed the fella back and said, "Dear Friend~ In the future, use a period. I have no fricking clue what you're talking about." ====== Understand, I know it's spam...but it's amazing that the art of being an a$$ has boiled down to this. In the olden days, people dedicated to the craft of being an a$$ would put more effort into it. lol
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