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Christ872

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Everything posted by Christ872

  1. Christ872

    Rum Beer?

    I have done it. I added some Jamaican Rum to my Jamaica Mon brew so that it wouldn't be crap...There is nothing JAMAICAN about that recipe, so, I made it Jamaican See this: http://hopville.com/recipe/1238610 Understand, it has been a long time ago, but this was a very good brew. It did condition about 2.5-to-3 months in order to let the flavors and whatnot mesh well...but it turned out very good.
  2. http://beeradvocate.com/beer/profile/689/2961/?sort=topr&start=0 http://www.twobrotherstaphouse.com/ Brewed by: Two Brothers Brewing Company visit their website Illinois, United States Style | ABV Bière de Garde | 5.90% ABV 16D. Bière de Garde Aroma: Prominent malty sweetness, often with a complex, light to moderate toasty character. Some caramelization is acceptable. Low to moderate esters. Little to no hop aroma (may be a bit spicy or herbal). Commercial versions will often have a musty, woodsy, cellar-like character that is difficult to achieve in homebrew. Paler versions will still be malty but will lack richer, deeper aromatics and may have a bit more hops. No diacetyl. Flavor: Medium to high malt flavor often with a toasty, toffee-like or caramel sweetness. Malt flavors and complexity tend to increase as beer color darkens. Low to moderate esters and alcohol flavors. Medium-low hop bitterness provides some support, but the balance is always tilted toward the malt. The malt flavor lasts into the finish but the finish is medium-dry to dry, never cloying. Alcohol can provide some additional dryness in the finish. Low to no hop flavor, although paler versions can have slightly higher levels of herbal or spicy hop flavor (which can also come from the yeast). Smooth, well-lagered character. No diacetyl. Ingredients: The “cellar” character in commercial examples is unlikely to be duplicated in homebrews as it comes from indigenous yeasts and molds. Commercial versions often have a “corked”, dry, astringent character that is often incorrectly identified as “cellar-like.” Homebrews therefore are usually cleaner. Base malts vary by beer color, but usually include pale, Vienna and Munich types. Kettle caramelization tends to be used more than crystal malts, when present. Darker versions will have richer malt complexity and sweetness from crystal-type malts. Sugar may be used to add flavor and aid in the dry finish. Lager or ale yeast fermented at cool ale temperatures, followed by long cold conditioning (4-6 weeks for commercial operations). Soft water. Floral, herbal or spicy continental hops. Vital Statistics: OG: 1.060 – 1.080 IBUs: 18 – 28 FG: 1.008 – 1.016 SRM: 6 – 19 ABV: 6 – 8.5%
  3. "Elko brewer" post=360103 said:Hi to all out their in brew land your thought please on Jamaica mon. My next batch will be the beer in question I have read many diffrent opinions on this beer from its real good to it real bad. So what can I do to insure a good beer I made a Jamaica Mon version which was excellent...but it had some creativity to it. As-is...the recipe is drinkable, but not something to center your brewing career around.
  4. "asnider" post=359788 said: Thanks for the tip about getting the right hop balance. I'll aim for a higher ration next time I make this one. Am I right in thinking that a longer boil with the same amount of hops will add more bitterness, but the same boil with more hops will increase both the IBUs and the hop flavour? Essentially. Here's where I would look (this is from your revised recipe: Sterling - Zpicy, herbal hop with a hint of citrus. Can be used as both a bittering and aroma hop 0.25 oz, Pellet, 23 minutes **This is your flavor boil. You could increase this to about 0.5. The IBUs would increase and at the same time, you would bring more flavor from the Sterling. Sterling - Zpicy, herbal hop with a hint of citrus. Can be used as both a bittering and aroma hop 0.25 oz, Pellet, 37 minutes **If you elected to tinker with this one...say move the 37 minutes to 50 or 55 minutes...you're not chaning the flavor, but definitely adding to the bitterness end. Of course you could tinker with both...but I'd advise being gentle with the adjustments otherwise this goes more to the APA or IPA level that you wouldn't associate as a lawnmower beer. ============= On taking a second look...you may really want to look at your numbers again. I think your IBUs are off completely. Here's what you put down: "asnider" post=359788 said:Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.047 OG Recipe Bitterness: 22 IBU Recipe Color: 5° SRM Estimated FG: 1.012 Alcohol by Volume: 4.5% Alcohol by Weight: 3.6% If the Classic American Light has 11 IBUs...how do you have a 37 minute boil and a 23 minute boil of an 8% AA hop only yield 11 more IBUs???
  5. Adam~ I'm sorry I didn't see this before, Looks good, but...had I seen this beforehand...my suggestion would have been to extend the bitterness boil...either by the amount of Sterling or the length. Looking at the revision of the recipe...you projected an OG of 1.047 and an IBU of 22. At this point your BU:GU ratio is less than 0.50 (0.47 to be more precise). Which...to me...would indicate a lot sweeter beer. Personally for me it doesn't feel balanced until I get to around 0.63-0.65 (in that range). If you're been doesn't have the bitterness backbone...I would suggest that this may be the culprit. Not concern about anything else I see.
  6. Jim Johnson~ Good question. The beer might be somewhere in the 6 - 6.2% ABV and he's only working with about 24 IBUs. Definitely going to need something on the hop end of things. Nice spot.
  7. In my trials with Wheat...I would suggest you determine how big or little a turn off is the Banana and/or Clove to you. If it's not an issue, I'd go with the WLP300 White Labs Hefeweizen Ale WLP300 This famous German yeast is a strain used in the production of traditional, authentic wheat beers. It produces the banana and clove nose traditionally associated with German wheat beers, and also leaves the desired "cloudy wheat beer" look. --however, if Banana and/or Clove are a turn-off-- I'd suggest WLP320 White Labs American Hefeweizen Ale WLP320 This yeast is used to produce the Oregon-style American Hefeweizen. Unlike Hefeweizen Ale (WLP300), this yeast produces a very slight amount of banana and clove notes. It produces some sulfur, but is otherwise a clean fermenting yeast which does not flocculate well, producing a cloudy beer. I prefer WhiteLabs to Wyeast...but this is also a good yeast to consider: Wyeast Belgian Witbier 3944 Probable origin: Hoegaarden, Belgium Commercial examples may include: Celis Wit, Hoegaarden, Blanc de Brugge Unique properties: This yeast produces a complex flavor profile with a spicey phenolic character and low ester production. Phenols tend to dominate most flavors and dissipate with age. It ferments fairly dry with a finish that compliments malted and unmalted wheat and oats. It is sometimes used in conjunction with lactic acid bacteria to produce a sharper finish. This strain is a slow starting yeast with true top cropping characteristics requiring full fermenter headspace.
  8. Hey guys, good evening! Question...I intended to Dry Hop an IPA for 5 days. Do I include the 2 or 3 day cold crash in that?? I added the dry hop on 4/2...and my intent is to bottle on 4/7 or 4/8. But I was also going to start cold crash tomorrow (4/5) prior to bottling...will that cold crash disturb any of the dry hop? Or no effect?
  9. Yep...welcome aboard. Give to have you brewing. It only gets better from here.
  10. Big +1 to Whirfloc or other similar product.
  11. "dbrowning" post=358503 said:your doing your best to criticize and insult him Not in the least. If you elect to read it that way, that is entirely up to you. But that is NOT! the intent.
  12. I don't think the hops have much of anything to adhere to. Are they supposed to be adhering to the Booster??
  13. "dbrowning" post=358487 said: "Christ872" post=358484 said:Peterson~ Whoa, dude. Your answer sounds like you're pissed. What I did understand was that you want to use half of a can of HME...and you want to know if you can estimate what IBU you'd have. Is that your question? The short answer is no...no way to really know what IBU content you'd have. You COULD guess...but you'd probably be wrong. Another asshole Not everyoe speaks good english Be considerate dbrowning~ I think Peterson speaks English just fine. Doing my best to answer him.
  14. Peterson~ Whoa, dude. Your answer sounds like you're pissed. What I did understand was that you want to use half of a can of HME...and you want to know if you can estimate what IBU you'd have. Is that your question? The short answer is no...no way to really know accurately what IBU content you'd have. You COULD guess...but you'd probably be wrong. This is a situation where the question to you is whether you want a "general" idea or a specific idea. If you want to say your beer has roughly 20 IBUs...you'd be fine. However, if you want to say for sure that this beer has 20 IBUs...you can't.
  15. Peterson~ First off...I've never, and I mean NEVER!!! heard of such a thing. Second...there's no way to guesstimate what IBUs you have and in what percentage. The part you use for a mix could contain 10, 20, 50, even 75% of the hops. As with anything fluid...the contents may not be uniform throughout. Since the HME is a syrup it would be very difficult to see or tell what parts of the IBU settle where. Third, How in the wild world of sports are you measuring half an HME??? Do you say to yourself that an HME can is 850g so you accurately measure out 425g??? Or are you eyeballing it and saying, "hey that looks like half"??? Understand that since the HME is a Syrup, you have an undefined amount sticking to the side of the can. If you are, in fact, measuring out an exact 425g...it might still be difficult to accurately know for sure what portion of the hops the 425g has. The consistency of a hopped extract leads me to believe that some parts are more more hoppy than others. Like I said, not uniformity to be able to make that call. =========== I say all of that, but I do remember that there is some company out there which can...if you send them a couple ounce sample...measure it and send you a report as to how the beer measures SRM, ABV, IBU, etc ...but by hand, one your own, without all that...it would be near impossible to have an accurate grasp of what you have. Curious if anyone remembers that company or has a link to it. I tried a search but was unable to find it.
  16. "pghFred" post=358179 said:One other thing - You may want to condition this and any beer a little longer when using booster. The most recent brew I made w/booster was the Jamaica Mon recipe and the cidery taste from the booster didn't really subside until around 8 weeks in the bottle. +1 !!!!
  17. LOL...looks like you have everything in there but beer. "colincloss" post=358200 said:Ok, Im starting out with: St. Patrick's Irish Stout unsweetened dark choc. powder brown sugar Choc. peatnut butter french roast coffee Oatmeal? St. Patrick's Irish Stout An authentic blend of grainy roasted malt, malted barley and hops, this is a rich, dark brew exhibiting coffee and chocolate aromas, a perfectly balanced, roasted bitter character and dry finish. ABV: 3.7% ***actual estimate is close to 3.0 - 3.2%*** SRM: 40 IBU: 50 ------------ Dark chocolate powder = Maybe 1 to 2 spoons Brown Sugar = 0 Choc. peatnut butter french roast coffee = I'd suggest 3/4 - 1 1/2 oz whole bean in a Muslin bad Oatmeal = I'd suggest 4 to 8 oz steep. Flaked Oats Pregelatinized oat flakes have been produced specifically for brewing. The process of gelatinizing makes the starches readily soluble and digestible by the naturally occurring enzymes in barley malt. This allows the flakes to be incorporated directly into the mash with other grains. Because the flakes have a large surface area and are pre-cooked, they hydrate and disintegrate quickly. Filtration time will be normal. Oat flakes have been dehulled before being cooked and flaked. Although these flakes are readily attacked by the malt enzymes, yield will be slightly lower than with other pregelatinized flakes. Oat flakes have a very distinctive “sticky” mouthfeel which is noticeable even when used in small amounts. ========== Beyond this I would suggest maybe 8oz-to-1Lb (...i.e. 1 or 2 bags) of LME (such as the Mr. Beer Softpak SMOOTH) BrewMax LME SoftPack - Smooth NET WEIGHT 8.81 OUNCES (250 GRAMS) Designed to maximize the quality of your beer by improving mouthfeel, flavor and head retention. Brewers profile: Reddish hues, coffee aromas, toffee richness of flavor with residual sweetness. Flavor: Malty ABV: 1.1%, SRM: 4 1 pack would get you to 4% , 2 packs would get you to 5%
  18. Fantastic. I'm saving this. I appreciate it.
  19. "psbeerkeeper" post=357486 said:So are they yeast colonies? "ao" post=357512 said:I am also interested in the answer to this question? Yeah, that's krausen...you're good. http://howtobrew.com/section1/chapter8-2-2.html
  20. AO~ Yeah, Jim Johnson is on point. In most instances, fermentation should actually be done in about 2 weeks...but we always recommend 3 just so that all of the final clean up by the yeasties can take place...or especially in a case like yours where you don't have a Hydrometer to ensure it. The Booster and DME/LME addition shouldn't complicate or change anything.
  21. "TJZ" post=358054 said:BTW my hops come in 1 oz pouches from my lhb store, not the half oz packets from MB. Good. Yeah, I wasn't sure on that point. Thanks. That clarifies it. You're definitely going to have an IPA for sure.
  22. "TJZ" post=357876 said: I guess I am going to boil half the hops for 20 minutes, and dry hop the last 5-7 days in the keg with the other half and see what happens. So...you're going for the flavor (20 minutes) and then the aroma in the 5-7 day dry hop. I'd be curious how much hops you have. Only 1/4 oz at each of those may not add much. 1/2-3/4 oz at each of those on the other hand would be a pleasantly hoppy brew.
  23. http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/8-new-brewers-and-faqs/357349-dry-hopping-for-aroma
  24. The peak boil for flavor is 22 minutes. So anywhere in that 18-25 minute range should give you flavor The peak boil for aroma is around 7 minutes. The 5-10 minute range would give you aroma.
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