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Everything posted by rmoore4556

  1. Brewed last night. Oddly enough, I kind of did both commando/sack. When I went to open the sack and throw in the flavor/aroma hops the two times, most went in but some fell straight into the pot. The thing was too hot to handle well haha. The only negative aspect of the night was when I pulled the hop sack up and against the pot for the additions some of the wort/hop mixture spilled over the lip and onto my stove. Now, I've had this happen with just wort boiling over. I would just leave a wet paper towel on it and let sit overnight. The stuff would wipe right off. This stuff last night burned on there and is tough. I've scrubbed and even let oxy clean sit on it. Nothing will even make it budge. Any ideas?? (I rent this place :whistle: )
  2. Awesome I'll be rehydrating then. If I were to go without a sack would I need to filter or something or will it settle with the rest of the sediment (I use whirfloc if that matters)? I don't have the ability to cold crash because even if I were to take all the racks out of my fridge it wouldn't fit. I might try to rig the sack to the pot with a paperclip. I got busy and couldn't brew so I pushed it off to tonight. How long will milled grains last in one of those plastic sealed bags? I hope they haven't lost their potency... Thanks for the knowledge
  3. I'm about to start my third partial mash ever and I have a few dumb questions (Its been awhile :dry: ) I have hops going in at three stages (Bitter, Flavor, Aroma) but only one reusable hop sack. Would it be stupid of me to just fish the thing out each time and add them all to the same sack at their respective times? I think the last couple times I had some throw away muslin sacks so I've never encountered this. I'd rather not go way back to the brewstore lol Also, there are surely a million different resources on rehydrating dry yeast, but I have yet to try it and am still hesitant. Does this really add to the final product? Thanks
  4. Newcastle Clone: West Coast Pale Ale + Creamy Brown + ½ oz Willamette Hops boiled 12.5 minutes OG: 1.040 FG: 1.008 I was skeptical as to how close it would be to Newcastle, but it turned out very well. I really liked it and I'm still savoring my last few. I boiled the hops 12.5 minutes (because I wanted a balance b/w aroma and flavor and the hme will already be bitter enough) in the UME then added the HME. I tried a beer every week, and it started to turn out really well after 2-3 weeks conditioning and one week in the fridge. As for the yeast, I used a 7 gram packet of Cooper's yeast. MB yeast would work fine, but use 2 or 3 packets. Hope this answers your question!
  5. Just got done brewing. I'm worried about the wort. Its in an ice bath right now and (what I can only believe are hops) there is an accumulation of sediment towards the top, slightly submerged. Its so dense that it looks like seaweed. Or, more accurately, a sponge (The real kind, not the manufactured ones). This is my sixth batch (third 5 gal) and I've never seen it before. Have I just been overlooking it or is this odd? It occured right when the temp started to significantly drop. Thanks Also, first time using WhirFloc...last 15 min of boil EDIT: Wort seems slightly less dense as well
  6. Thanks for the clarification on that! What's collaboration brew? EDIT: The recipe also says 5.5 gallons...not 5. Does this still apply?
  7. oly wrote: ... It will be richer than the recipe intended, so you may want to bump up your hops a bit. If it was me, I'd use an ounce of hops for every addition, but I likes me hops. He mentioned that. Gave me Cascade that were 7.4% rather than 6.6%..? Still only 2 ounces though.
  8. texasbrewer0069 wrote: You need to mash your grains not steep... very simple just follow the instructions as laid out by AG recipe... What's the difference b/w mash and steep? Don't both entail throwing grains in a sack and into hot water for a period of time? In this instance 60 minutes @ 152* EDIT: I understand the sugars vs. just flavor/appearance difference of mash vs steep (respectively). The actualy technical process is what I'm concerned with
  9. Found this online and decided to give it a go: All Grain Version Beer Style: American Pale Ale Batch Size: 5.5 gallons Original Gravity: 1.051 Final Gravity: 1.011 Bitterness: 39 IBU Boiling Time: 60 minutes Color: 5 SRM Alcohol: 5.24% ABV Ingredients 8 lbs. 2-Row Pale Malt 2 lbs. Vienna Malt 0.5 lb. Crystal 10L Malt 1.0 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 60 min. 0.5 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 30 min. 0.25 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 15 min. 0.25 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 5 min. Danstar Nottingham Ale Yeast. Directions: Mash all grains for 60 minutes at 152 degrees. Drain the runnings into the boil kettle, recirculating the first quart or so back into the mash. Sparge with 175F degree water and boil for 60 minutes adding hops at the schedule above. Chill to 70 to 75 degrees before pitching yeast. Fermentation Use 1 Package of Nottingham Dry Yeast and ferment for 10 Days at 68 Degrees. Extract Version: Steep Crystal Malt for 30 minutes at 155F. Replace Pale Malt and Vienna Malt with 6.5lb Extra Pale Liquid Malt Extract and 1.5lb Munich Liquid Malt Extract and boil according to directions above. Now, I have never done all-grain, so when I went to my LHBS the guy gave me a somewhat modified version of the ingredients. Here it is: 5 lbs Pilsen Light LME 1 lbs Munich LME 1 lbs 2-Row Pale Malt 2 lbs Vienna Malt 0.5 lbs Crystal 10L Malt 1.0 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 60 min. 0.5 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 30 min. 0.25 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 15 min. 0.25 oz. Cascade (6.6%) boil for 5 min. Plus, Safale 05 instead of nottingham (Which I prefer anyways) My need for clarification comes in at the directions. LHBS guy told me to follow the all-grain directions and to just omit the "Drain the runnings into the boil kettle, recirculating the first quart or so back into the mash." I had a hard time remembering his directions so I want to make sure. I'll basically just be steeping grains for an hour, then adding LME and boiling for an hour (w/hops). How's this sound? Thanks!
  10. No boiling over sounds great, but no krausen? How's that work?
  11. I've never taken a preboil reading, but I do know that you shouldn't use a hydrometer in high temps. It won't just be inaccurate; it can break it.
  12. It tastes sour like very mild grapefruit/rotten citrus juice with alcohol in it. And pretty bad...I can't imagine trying to swallow it. As for the ridiculous amount of adjuncts...I saw a recipe on MB that involved the same ratio, so I figured it'd be ok to try. I had the CABA HME sitting around and I didn't see myself using it so I gave it a go in an extra LBK I've got. The only difference from the MB recipe was the HME used. I think it called for the high country canadian. I'll keep it. Its been in the LBK two weeks. Leave it in there for how long?
  13. Kealia wrote: You made cider with a little malt in it. It's going to be thin, pale colored and not taste very good for a long while. Haha, ouch. Is it even worth taking up my bottles forever or should I just dump it?
  14. OK, first, I apologize for the ridiculous picture. I took it with my phone and thats the only way I could get it on there. Technology hates me. As for the wort, its very watery. The picture is accurate. Pinkish too. The issue is I've never seen pink beer and that worries me haha. My girlfriend will love it. And amennn to the men of mayhem BugLaden
  15. I have a very odd looking beer fermenting. Brewed this just for the fun of it and as an experiment with some extra stuff laying around, so I'm not heartbroken about its odd outcome, but I was wondering if anyone could provide some insight as to how this happened. Classic American Blonde Ale HME + Booster + 1 can of blueberries 4g MB yeast OG=1.041 Brewed: WED, Nov 2 Honey Adjunct 1 cup Nov 8 Just took a gravity reading ~1.012 It's the color and consistency of grapefruit juice. This was my first time using the canned oregon fruit. I know the malt/adjunct ratio is skewed, but would that have this sort of an effect? The trub is lacking its normal characteristics. Its there, but not as dense and pure looking. It's got blueberry flakes. Did I not puree the blueberries enough?
  16. Just as an add-in, if you're using MB 2g yeast packets, heres a quote from a different thread that may make future batches take off more quickly. (Your current beer will be fine though) bpgreen said: I think the 2 g packets are not really enough for a Mr Beer batch. I like to use at least 3 packets when I use it. If I were doing a plain standard or deluxe refill, 2 packets might be enough, but my preference is to use more than 2 g in all cases. An 11.5 g packet is more than you need (I usually use 1/2 packet), but not so much that it will cause problems (it's possible to pitch so much that it will have bad effects, but it takes A LOT of yeast to get to that point). As far as a good general purpose yeast for all styles, the Mr Beer yeast is a good choice (but as I pointed out before, I use more). So is Fermentis S-33 (11.5g). Other choices (not available from Mr Beer) are Cooper's and Munton's. I think those are in 7 g packets, so a single packet would work well.
  17. JV wrote: ...Is there a defined section on here for abv's etc. ? The book that came with your kit has a pretty good adjunct ratio explanation section. The malt to adjunt ratio post is great too. Welcome!
  18. Sounds pretty good! These guys will be able to answer your question far better than I can, but here's a start (maybe) http://www.brew-dudes.com/milk-stout-recipe/426
  19. Brian1179 wrote: welcome to the borg BIG TEX :cheers: first off, looks like every got answered. secondly, deployed....are you in the service, if you are thank you very much for serving. Just get home safe please :woohoo: +1,000
  20. That's pretty impressive! I think I'll give it a try on my next batch. Thanks
  21. Ya, I'm not worried about it so I'll just leave it until I get back. As for the cold crashing, I've made batches where I bottled a couple beers then let the rest cold crash before bottling in order to see the difference. I have yet to really see a significant difference in taste or clarity/bottom-setlling sediment. Am I missing something here? And while I'm on the topic of clarity, has anyone here ever used and been impressed by irish moss? I'm not picky about the clarity of my beer, but I'm interested in the concept.
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