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rmoore4556

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Everything posted by rmoore4556

  1. +1 Also, slimlines are cheap. I saw one at wally world on sale for $3 the other day. They're usually around 5 or 6.
  2. Oh ok. No, they don't have that. I've got three and none of them came with it.
  3. Awesome, thanks. That confirmed my hunch. I'll ask my LHBS guy about it and update
  4. I never had the older version, but my understanding is that it had an airlock...? The new ones just have two small holes under the lid that act as vents. Hope I understood the question right
  5. I brewed a stout recipe on Wed Nov 9th that I got from my LHBS. Its a five gallon recipe and its in my only carboy. The recipe says "...do not leave in primary fermentor for more than 2 weeks." I dont have a secondary, only a bottling bucket. I'll be out of town for thanksgiving (including the 23rd, the two week mark). I leave on the 22nd. Which is better...bottle on 22nd (13 days) or the 26th/27th (17-18 days) when I get back? I've let MB recipes go three weeks, so I was surprised by their recommendation. Anyone know why the instructions would say this? Thanks
  6. mnstarzz13 wrote: Also, for those with the old LBK with an airlock, (I know this doesnt apply to you rmoore) be sure to add the water to your airlock AFTER moving the LBK to its resting place. By lifting it, it squeezes air out of the keg and up into the air lock and it will force water down into wort if you already filled it. Does that not apply to a carboy at all? Because last night I moved the carboy after I filled the airlock...
  7. Gymrat wrote: When the pressure from the fermentation first starts building up, it lifts that plastic piece up and leans it over, I doubt that your water is going into your wort. You are fine, relax and let the yeast do their thing in privacy, soon you will have beer. I unfortunately watched it drip in several times. That, and the water was significantly lower than the fill mark this morning. Fill the airlock AFTER everything (the riser cup) is in and ready for the top cap. Ahh, I filled it before I put in the riser cup. I'll give it a try, thanks.
  8. Hey everyone. I brewed my first five gallon batch last night and its in my carboy now. I'm having problems with the airlock-the cylinder kind. I fill it to the bottom fill line with sanitized water, place the plastic guy in there (which brings it in-between the top and bottom fill lines), and shut the lid. Everything looks fine at first, but then the plastic moving part in there will end up all pushed up and crooked and the water will actually be dripping into the wort. This has happened last night and this morning. I've fixed it both times. What am I doing wrong??
  9. The caveat is that there is more headspace and that's easier to compress than beer, so explosions are possible but not imminent. SB, What I take from this is that the extra headspace is going to be pressurized more than that of the beer itself...? Rogue Co2 (as a gas)?
  10. Just bottled an Englishman nut brown ale. I used 12 oz bottles, so the priming sugar was 3/4 tsp per bottle. I always add sugar to all the bottles, then fill and cap each one individually. The last bottle only went to about half full, but I had already put the 3/4 tsp in it. Because of the larger ratio of sugar to beer, will this last one be more likely to explode? I'd rather ditch it than lose the bottle.
  11. Screwy Brewer wrote: rmoore4556 wrote: Sounds amazing. Couldn't help but notice the thermometers in the LBK lids. You use a gromit or did you just make a hole that they fit tightly in? rmoore4556 nope I just drilled a hole slightly smaller than the thermometer probe so it fits in tight enough to need some firm pushing to adjust the depth of the probe into the LBK.Awesome, thanks
  12. Sounds amazing. Couldn't help but notice the thermometers in the LBK lids. You use a gromit or did you just make a hole that they fit tightly in?
  13. I just got it after about 2-3 weeks. Honestly, the stick on thermometer they give you isn't great. I prefer the one you can buy for around 2 dollars from them. It works and everything but it doesn't give you exact temperature (just ranges). The best part of that gift thing was the 20% off coupon I got with it. Considering my next order will be about $120, that's $24 free. Pretty cool. The other gift is a magnet for the fridge.
  14. Pretty interesting stuff. Thanks for the input!
  15. The beer I made last night was made with 2g of MB yeast. So it will benefit me to add coopers when it arrives in a couple days and it wont mess up the fermentation process? (This assuming that mixing yeasts won't hurt...?) Sidenote: I have an extra 2g packet of MB yeast...if the option stated above is iffy, can I just throw in the extra packet now? (It's been about 15 hours since I brewed) The "mix vigorously" step with brewing w/ MB seems like it would mess up my 15-hour old wort. As for the lager/ale difference, coopers and muntons are both advertised as ale yeasts. Is there a brand that makes lager yeast and is similarly priced? I'd like to stock up for when I make lagers too. And by the way, Thanks for all the great info everyone. This place is a goldmine! Much appreciated
  16. Awesome thanks! I went with coopers. Found a ten-pack of 7g packets for $19. Will this be better for ales, lagers, or equally good for both? I just brewed a classic american blonde ale w/blueberry last night...is it possible to add more yeast during fermentation? If so, whats the cut off point time-wise? Mixing the mrbeer yeast and coopers yeast a bad idea? Just lookin for the best outcome... Sorry for the hoards of questions :blush:
  17. That makes sense bpgreen. mashani wrote: I don't do it when I pitch an 11g pack of Fermentis yeast into a 2.25 gallon batch, there is plenty of yeast available even if some of them implode. I have been getting active fermenation in 3-4 hours in general, which I'm not going to sneeze at, I don't see any reason to stress about getting it going faster then that. I've never used any yeast other than the 2g packet included with the hme. 11g for the same 2 gallon LBK is a huge difference. Are the 2g packets just that small or is the Fermentis yeast different in a way that it requires more? (I know very little about yeast) And while we're on the topic, whats the best yeast that will work decently well with all brews? I've thought about using better yeast, but I can't afford the real expensive stuff so I've just been using the 2g packets (so cost of yeast is kind of important).
  18. The whole process just seems a little redundant to me. When you pitch dry yeast into the LBK, aren't you basically rehydrating it then? Especially considering the fact that (percentage-wise) the majority of the ingredients in the LBK is simply water. Or is pure water really essential to the process?
  19. Been doing some research but I'm still uneasy on rehydrating yeast. Specifically with the basic 2 gram yeast packets that come standard with mr. beer refills...how exactly do you rehydrate? Also, is it really that important to rehydrate? I know it makes the yeast more active in the beginning, but does it have a different overall effect? I let ferment usually for about 2 1/2 to 3 weeks no matter what anyways. Thanks for any info!
  20. See, that's why I come here haha. That's great. Thanks!
  21. Hey everyone, I've got some concerns about temperature... I live in an apartment and my electric bill becomes a huge issue when we start talking about fermenting temperatures as low as 66 degrees. I cannot go lower than 77 degrees in here without my bill shooting up. Is this gunna really hurt me? Another issue...I know I need to ferment at consistent temperatures, but I also can't afford to turn the heater on much. The temperature during winter so far has been as low as 68 degrees when I wake up (That's 68 degrees within the apartment...I just keep A/C set at 77), then it slowly comes up as the day moves on. I've got the stick on thermometer on my keg and it keeps at between 72-76 (mostly 74). Any suggestions as to how I can solve these issues without my elec bill doubling?
  22. I had a buddy over and he was checking out my beer equipment when he partially opened a beer that was conditioning. This brew has only been carbing for eight days. They're in the 1-liter plastic mr. beer bottles. He didn't crack the seal on the cap (They're new caps), but there was definitely that "pshh" sound, so I know air escaped. The bottle is also not as pressurized anymore, but it still has some pressure. Can I save it somehow? Is it possible to open it, add some sugar, and start over somehow, or will it still be decently carbed if I leave it for awhile? I'd hate to waste an entire liter of beer. Thanks!
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