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About The_Professor

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  1. I dug these up a few months ago: The British Trade Journal and Export World, Volume 19 ( c. 1881)Pale ale, or, as it was first termed, "India Pale Ale"...The fact is indisputable and undisputed that the inventor of the healthy and invigorating drink once known as "India Pale Ale" was a Mr. Hodgson...and at one time no other malt liquor was drunk...in Calcutta. All the year round (A Weekly Journal conducted by Charles Dickens c. 1890)The cause of all the commotion...was East India Pale Ale, and many strange tales have been told of it's origin...a consignment of beer sent out in a cloudycondition, which, after travelling round the world, came back...in a conditionso excellent, bright, and sparkling... The Law Reports: Chancery Division, and on appeal therefrom in ..., Volume 18 ( c. 1880)...to sell to them only a kind of bitter ale, known in the trade as "I.P.A.", ...This beer was retailed by publicans as "Pale Ale"... Household Words, Volume 7 (conducted by Charles Dickens c. 1858)...ordered his butler to bring a bottle of India Ale which had been to India and back..."There, sir," conculded Sir John. "That's the true legend of pale ale..."
  2. Adjuncts have their place and you just need to know what you are in for. My favorite example would be Belgian style beers that use adjuncts to kick a 5ABV beer up to 6, or a 6ABV beer to 7, etc. By adding the adjunct rather than malt you do get a bit more kick without making the beer maltier. Maybe I have this wrong but I don't think of the adjunct as "thinning" the beer, I think it is the malt body kicked up by the adjunct. Now, as brewmaster, you need to decide if you want to add more malt or some adjunct to your brew. Never add rice, corn, or sugar to your beer or it will be bad, is nonsense. But so is, can I just dump a bunch of sugar in my beer to make it really strong? I made a number of the older Mr. Beer refills with one pound of DME and one package of booster and they were good. In theory adding either or both to a newer refill should be fine according to your taste. Ferment in the mid 60s rather than anywhere in the 70s (per a stick on thermometer, not room temp).
  3. There's a German influence (tending towards lagers) in many countries Mexico, China, USA, etc.
  4. Actually, when I do lagers, if all goes well with the fermentation temp and they get a bit of cold lagering no diacetyl rest is needed.
  5. I don't know what recipe would be best, but you could use some of these. http://www.austinhomebrew.com/Wine/Additives_2/Whiskey-Barrel-Chips.html#.VNbB7HXN-is
  6. Things like hopping rate, alcohol content, and capping can make a difference if you're talking years.
  7. As far as going "mad scientist", brewing is a bit like cooking. Say you are making hamburgers. You could choose your own beef cuts, grind them yourself for just the right beef/fat/flavor content. Or even mix hamburger and quinoa to make everyone healthier. Maybe mix hamburger with chili peppers, or garlic? And, of course in dreaming these up, you ask yourself "what would I like". And if you're cooking for a crowd you ask "what would they like". Same for brewing. A nice fruit beer has it's place, and an American wheat is a really good base for this. I do think a new brewer should make a "beer" before getting too wild. Just to know, okay I made a beer, and it tastes like a beer. Then you become the brewmaster and make the beers that you like. Here's a link to a well seasoned brewer fooling with a Mr. Beer kit he got from Target recently: http://www.mrbeerfans.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/344137/Improving_the_Classic_American.html#Post344137
  8. It looked like a bit of planning went into the livestream. Having what you needed at hand and moving video angles to cover some stuff better. The Mr. Beer HME production plant was mentioned. I'd be interested to see that sometime. Live or not. It was interesting to see how quick the comments came when some guy (unnamed) tried to open a yeast packet with his teeth.
  9. I have done a few lagers. My usual process now is 1-2 week in primary, transfer to secondary (to get off the yeast cake) and lager in the fridge for 2-4 weeks. Then I bottle it by batch priming and carb, ideally in the high 60s. I get a nice clean lager doing this. So I am not real sure what the reasoning is to carbing that low. Perhaps it takes the place of laggering before bottling. I do have to test the carbonation of my bottles as it can take longer than usual sometimes after the lager phase.
  10. Yeah, sometimes 3 weeks is needed. Maybe even gently invert them.
  11. One thing you can do to make a beer that has "too much" drinkable sometimes is to pick up some sort of BMC beer and do a little mixing.
  12. Number nine, number nine. Number nine, number nine.
  13. Doing the Classic American Light Deluxe refill (it's 2 for 1 right now) as a lager might get you in the ballpark. That would mean fermenting in the low 50s with something like the Saflager 34/70 yeast. Using Nottingham yeast in the low 60s would be an alternative for a pseudo-lager.
  14. Bananas, red millet, and quinine bark...
  15. You don't give much info on the particular beer, PunkyBrewer. The first lager I made had tons of diacetyl because I under pitched and then raised the temp when I realized there was not much activity after a number of days. I did not find it undrinkable but it was pretty weird. Aging did help some. I have had a bit of diacetyl fermenting with an ale yeast that went below the low 60s I intended into the 50s. I think I did a "diacetyl rest" with that one since I was forewarned. Very recently I brewed an "Olde Style Steam Beer" using a regular lager yeast in the low 60s. I actually expected a bit of diacetyl and there is a slight butterscotch in the background. For this beer I think it just adds character. Yeah, aging a month or two should help.
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