Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

The_Professor

Community Members
  • Content Count

    190
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The_Professor

  1. Page 15 of "On Beer And Brewing Techniques In Ancient Mesopotamia": The malt...seems to have been treated in two ways: it was either kept in earthen containers and sacks or baked with aromatic matters or the like into perhaps bread-shaped lumps or cakes which were called bappir...The baking was done in a special kiln... Malt made in the shape of flat bread with an added "aromatic" mixture does not sound like burnt toast to me.
  2. Here is the part where I don't tell you what you should make of that paper. What I read at the beginning is an attempt to convey what makes up the Sumerian terms about beer making and how the terms may or may not be understood well. The further use of the terms should, of course, carry the weight of the caveats mentioned. What else could bappir be? Crystal grain with spices and aromatics? Does "baking in a big oven" refer to baking bread in an oven or kilning barley (malted or unmalted)? Or was this some way to introduce yeast into the wort? Baking bread fully would kill the yeast. And was yeast the only fermentation agent or were things like lactobacillus or brett involved? Since it remains a mystery, the fun is deciding what you make of it.
  3. Ah, but a symbol, often translated as bappir, is not necessarily bread... The Origins of Brewing Technology in Ancient Mesopotamia
  4. Does Ancient Egyptian Beer made with home malted emmer wheat and barley count? The only additions to the beer were roasted date pits and saffron.
  5. Adjuncts have their place and it depends on what you like and intend to make. All malt will have a fuller body. Adding sugar will thin the body a bit and up the ABV. While some styles are intended to have a sugar adjunct addition, I don't think a Brown Ale is one of them.
  6. See the note here . Muntons 4 pound cans are designed to make 6 gallons with an original gravity of 1.040 (with 2.25 LB of dry malt extract or sugar) giving about 4.1% ABV. We prefer to make 5 gallons with 3 LB of dry malt extract to give an OG of about 1.054 and 5.5% ABV.
  7. Like Joechianti, I've used recycled glass quart beer bottles. The Mr. Beer plastic caps work fine on the bottles.
  8. You probably want to bring the water to a boil before adding anything but any malt extract is supposed to be "good to go". Make sure it dissolves well.
  9. If you know about where it was at you might be able to use the Wayback. The forum "search" on the wayback doesn't work, and of course you won't be able to log in.
  10. Yeah, cheers to all the drunk, self starting, do-it-yourselfers.
  11. I am just seeing your post today, hindey19. I am not real sure what to think of your recipe but you know what? When you go all grain and make your own recipes you are completely free to (attempt to) brew up what you want. My main concern with your original recipe was conversion. Too high of a non base malt to base malt recipe may mean your mash will not convert well. Your hop additions, with no bittering but 15 and 5 minute additions are more of a "hopburst" style. With a lot of hop flavor and aroma added to the beer. If you really like "maltier beers with a slight hop aroma" you may want to do a 60 minute addition (this is all bittering with no hop flavor) just to balance the beer as you like and then add 1/2 to 1 oz at five minutes for aroma. In any case, good luck with your brew.
  12. "RaleighBrewer" post=384519 said:...combining any two MRB cans would be more than the single Munton's can, so would it not be okay to use the whole can of Munton's? .. I think the answer to your question is both yes, and maybe.Some larger HMEs suggest adding additional sugar or malt to make the larger batch. So brewing that brew with only the single can would make it a bit stronger (for both malt and hops), not necessarily bad but maybe and maybe not stronger than you want. Other HMEs are intended to be used singly for a smaller batch or doubled up for a larger batch, in which case one can for a Mr. Beer keg would be about right. Stating a particular HME you intend to use would be best.
  13. "planetb" post=379062 said:...I just bottled this on Sunday (I have 15cans of American Light.. I bought 15 kits from sears very cheap, so playing around..) and it smells and tasted wonderful before bottling, Looking forward to this... I'd like to hear how it turns out for you after carbonation and conditioning.
  14. You'll want 2 packages of the yeast. A lager requires more yeast than an ale. I usually aim for 50-55 fermentation temps.
  15. "rodwha" post=375244 said:...but I wanted the little fermentors and bottles for when we go backpacking... WTF?!!??!You're brewing while you backpack?
  16. Hmmm, it appears you have made beer...
  17. "headcase71" post=373228 said:@The_Professor. Thanks for the tips. Since I'm using an LBK then I don't really have an airlock, right? I'll just pour in the (cooled) wart, pitch the yeast and it's off to the races? Yes. You can top off with water if it's needed, but it should already be pretty close.
  18. "pspearing" post=373184 said:...I forget the manufacturer but it's supposed to make 9 liters of Grand Cru.... Probably Brewferm?Again the site mentions Mr. Beer: Brewferm 3.3 pound cans are designed to make 2-1/2 gallons with an original gravity of 1.075 giving about 8% ABV. One can is perfect for use with the Mr. Beer system...
  19. I have a 3.5 gallon fermentation bucket. Just the bucket and lid with hole for the airlock, no spigot on the bucket. They can be hard to find. I see them here. I've never bought anything from there.
  20. I wanted to look up what the 2 cans in the "Gold Series" were. Both HME or 1 each HME and LME. The first site I pulled up has a note: CAN BE SPLIT INTO TWO 1/2 BREWS FOR MR. BEER KITS
  21. "headcase71" post=372868 said:So here are the instructions: Heat 3 gallons of water to 160 degrees Steep grains (they sent 4 lbs Two Row; 4 oz Munich Malt, 2 oz Crystal 60L) for 45 minutes using grain sack Remove grain sack Bring to a boil Set timer for 60 minutes Add hops according to schedule (.5 oz Cascade @ beginning; .5 oz Cascade 55 minutes later) After boil water cool to 85 degrees Pour into fermenter Add yeast and shake well Attach airlock; fill fermenter with water or vodka (how much with LBK?) Wait 10 Days Bottle Thoughts? Also, what is this stuff really worth in $? Doesn't look bad, headcase71.Sounds like a BIAB process that is supposed to leave you with 2 gallons of wort to ferment. A comment I would make about the "Steep grains for 45 minutes" after heating the water to 160 is that you do want to hold within a temperature range. Usually 152-158. Put a lid on the pot while mashing and check the temp about 5 minutes after adding the grain. I'd check in another 30 minutes as well. If it looks like it's gonna drop well below 150 you'll need to heat the water some. Maybe keep a second pot available to move the grains into while you heat the "steeping" water. You might consider mashing for 60 minutes rather than 45. After the boil the wort needs to be cool enough to not melt your Mr. Beer keg and to not kill the yeast. I'd suggest using an ice bath in your sink and cool close to fermentation temps. And yeah, don't add vodka to the fermenter, but you can to the airlock if you want.
  22. AFAIC the only obvious fact is that you'll use less high alpha hops than low alpha hops for the same bittering IBU. Supposedly "bittering is bittering", but... If I am making a traditional beer that uses noble hops, I use the noble hops for the bittering. In a pinch I would use whatever if I just wanted to brew. Some high alpha hops are called "clean bittering" hops so in theory they should be.
  23. This is your first lager? Looks like all is going well. Best of luck with it.
  24. "Afghanvet_2x" post=369111 said:...Every beer I have made in it has a real sweet like cider taste too. I know people say that it is a sign of a green beer... "Afghanvet_2x" post=369137 said:When I do 5 gallon batches when I bottle the hydrometer sample is exactly what the beer is gonna taste like. My own thought is that if there is a cidery flavor at bottling that there is something to improve in the brewing process, even if the beer improves with age.I agree more with the second comment. Although a good beer's flavor will improve with aging, the pre-bottling sample should be closer to that than to cider. I would suspect something in the cleaning/sanitizing process. The spigot gets cleaned and sanitized while unscrewed from the keg?
×
×
  • Create New...