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Everything posted by The_Professor

  1. I did not measure the sugar content of my fermenting beer for about a year. I assumed 2 weeks for a 5ish ABV and longer if it went to 7ish. I also clued into secondary signs. If you use the spigot to put a small sample into a shot glass shortly after adding the wort to the keg you will see how clear it is. If you taste it it will be really sweet. Within 24-48 hours a sample will be somewhere from noticeably cloudy to really cloudy and a taste will be somewhat yeasty. This clues you in that fermentation has started. Visible krausen shows this as well. Samples within about 4-7 days will remain somewhat cloudy. Somewhere within the 7-10 day period you will probably notice that the wort drops to slightly cloudy. Actual readings with either a hydrometer or refractometer are going to be both easier and more reliable but monitoring secondary signs works to some degree as well. Yeah, I use a refractometer now-a-days.
  2. Seriously, I was happy enough with the 5 gallon extract kits I was brewing that I wasn't that hot to do all grain, both because I didn't really understand the process and the extra equipment involved. The extract kits made some great beer. Once you get your process dialed in, all grain does step it up a notch. You can totally use whatever grains you want in your mash. You can experiment with First Wort Hopping. You can even malt your own grain for brewing.
  3. "FedoraDave" post=364507 said: "tangerineyeti" post=364498 said:Almost to wk 2 of fermentation and I see a lot of stuff in the bottom of the LBJ. Is this normal? I don't know what former president Lyndon Johnson has to do with it, but if you're seeing sediment at the bottom of the Little Brown Keg, you're making beer! Hmmm, stuff on LBJ's bottom is probably NOT called trub.
  4. I've used the Mr. Beer keg as a secondary for mead. I did the SNA like mashani mentions so the mead was only fermenting for 2 or 3 months before bottling. The primary fermenter was a 3.5 gallon bucket then transfered to the Mr. Beer secondary at 3 or 4 weeks.
  5. My understanding is malt extract per gallons of water for the boil. I had read no more than 2 lbs extract per gallon of water. So long as you watch that your beers will have the correct color without excessive carmelization.
  6. There are at least a couple different ways to steep grains. One is to heat the water to a specific temp (maybe 160ish) and steep the grain for 20-30 minutes. Another is to add the grain to the water and then begin heating the water, remove the grain before the boil. Steeping is just that, like steeping tea. You could actually do a cold steep if you wanted. Let the grain sit in room temp water overnight. Steeping will add the desired color and flavor to the wort. For the best color and flavor, never add more than 2 lbs of extract per gallon of water. Add the remainder after the hop boil.
  7. "Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=302010 said:The yeast you used was the DownUnda? Then this is an ale no matter what you do to it. Since it's not been done with a true lager yeast you don't need to D-Rest it. I'm replying to this post since it seem the most reasonable.The difference between Ale and Lager yeast is if it it top or bottom fermenting. I had to do a little reading since I was recently reading that Nottingham can ferment at 55, but wondered why all posts called it a pseudo lager. A top fermenting (ale) yeast that can ferment at 55 is not a bottom fermenting (lager) yeast just because of the fermentation temp. I'm gonna question the no d-rest comment. I have noticed diacetyl using US05 that accidentally dipped well below 60 (due to weather changes). Personally, I never find a d-rest necessary using a lager yeast that is pitched and maintained at 50-55.
  8. LOL, another no FB here. I thought I was an odd man out. Not so much I see. I exit anything to do with it.
  9. "mashani" post=294739 said:Maybe I'll brew one with just a TINY bit of smoke like I'd use spice, and see what I think of that. The first time I used it I steeped 1 oz in a Mr. Beer sized extract batch.
  10. "mashani" post=294459 said:...I unfortunately don't like raouchbier. At least every one I've tried, and I've tried a handful just to make sure it wasn't a particular beer. Just don't like smoke in my beer for some reason. That is one of the reasons that I like making my own beer.Rauchbier is one of those beers that sounded good when I read the style guidelines but when I tried a Schlenkerla I found it to be to much, almost medicinal tasting. I did try some small additions of cherrywood smoked malt in a couple beers and I liked it. Then I made a real rauchbier with 50% each rauchmalt and pilsner. Actually a jalapeno smoked beer. Only one other person said they really liked it, most everyone else said it was way too smokey tasting. If I make this again I will do 20-25% rauchmalt instead. But I do plan to make a straight rauchbier as well. Another style that I thought sounded good was Strong Scotch Ale, but the versions I found at Bevmo seemed thin and lacking. I made my own recipe with an oak addition and got a nice thick 9.0 ale. When I taste commercial beers I don't think that is the only way that style can turn out. If the style description sounds good I wonder how I would make it for my palate.
  11. 50% smoked to 50% non smoked malts makes a good Rauchbier AFAIC, so your numbers look good. I've just used pilsen malt for the non smoked portion so far so your recipe is a bit maltier and darker than I have made, but it sounds pretty tasty to me.
  12. "piscator" post=293599 said:Not even close. Wow, I am disappointed to hear that.
  13. Have you looked at the Bewitched Amber Ale refill. I was assuming it was similar.
  14. I'd suggest picking up some amber DME and Hallertau hops. Bring 1 gallon of water to a boil (in a 2 gallon pot), remove from heat and stir in 1 lb of amber DME, return to the heat and boil (watch for boil over), once the foaming subsides add 1/2 oz Hallertau hops and boil for 5 minutes. Remove from heat and add the HME. Cool in an ice bath, then proceed as normal.
  15. "Abqu" post=288156 said:...Fresco Chili Lime Beer (jalapenos + lime) Nah, this is chili beer, no lime...
  16. The Maris Otter is a great base for any English style beer such as a bitter, an English style IPA, or even a nice Irish Red. You just need to add the right steeping grains and hops.
  17. "Trollby" post=288189 said:Here are the images, they are from my phone (son broke camera and in the shop) It smells like good wheat beer Looks like you've got a nice pellicle there. While some people want that on their fermenting beer, for most beers it is unwanted. You might be able to bottle or rack the beer without disturbing the pellicle too much and have a normal beer. You might be surprised that you like the beer even if it isn't quite normal. Then again, maybe it needs a year or two to appreciate it...I sampled mine that had an unwanted pellicle and tossed it since it wasn't what I had intended.
  18. "onajojo" post=286500 said:My father-in-law is visiting this Christmas, and he is far from a "fancy" beer drinker. Despite having the ability to buy many different incredible beers from local breweries, he prefers Coor's and Keystone light. I refuse to have either of those beers in my home. I would like to brew a batch of beer for him from one of the deluxe refill kits, but I'm not sure which one. I assume either the Classic American Light, Canadian Blonde, or Patriot American Lager. Of those three, which one is the closest to a Coor's light? I have one more week before I can try my first batch, and my next two batches are planned. I just need which one will be the next batch. Are you going to brew these as is or as a lager?
  19. Looks pretty good to me 1moreplease. I've done just a few meads, both boiled (as in burnt honey mead) and not boiled. Either may work fine. Takes at least 3-4 months for the "hot" alcohol flavor to condition out. Maybe not as noticeable with the fruit addition.
  20. FWIW I try to ferment my lagers at 50-55. I do not do a diacetyl rest. I do rack to secondary and after dropping temps over 3-4 days put the keg in the fridge for 2-4 weeks to lager. Then I bottle and carb at 70ish.
  21. I have done quite a few extract kits with hop boil and steeping grain. I liked the results so much that I didn't see a need to try all grain, until I did anyway.
  22. You want to be looking at a Hop Utilization Chart and use Brewing Software to see what you really want. A 60 minute boil adds only bitterness. 20ish adds flavor 5ish adds aroma
  23. "bpgreen" post=268195 said:I took it to mean that he planned to use a pound for the go boil and do a late addition with the rest. But you're right. If he doesn't tell us, we're only guessing. Ditto
  24. Personally I would not do a boil with less than 1 gallon
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