Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

The_Professor

Community Members
  • Content Count

    190
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by The_Professor

  1. A secret to know about UME is that you can tweak it more than just choosing light or dark. Using Crystal, Carapils, or other grains for steeping you can make it more to your own taste. (Just be aware that steeping base grains doesn't do much) For instance looking at the Munton's LME they mention what sort of grains they use. The Amber is: ...a blend of pale and crystal malts... The Dark is: ...Chocolate malt, crystal malt and pale malt...
  2. "BigRiverBrewer" post=267555 said:...because I worked as a chef for nearly a decade... I've always thought that a beer recipe was like any recipe and it is interesting that you are working ingredients that you are familiar with.Wait until you try all grain and can create the exact malt profile you want.
  3. "Kethyar" post=267435 said:...what's the best way to ween yourself off the canned refills... I'd say an extract recipe kit with steeping grains and hop boil, it lets you take a step without worrying about formulating your own recipes. Most kits are for 5 gallons so you'll need a bigger fermenter or 2 Mr. Beer kegs.
  4. "mashani" post=266795 said:I think the pride of ringwood thing might be like that catty (black current) thing with some hops... some folks don't notice, doesn't bother them... other folks hate it. I don't mind the black current thing, but I don't like the pride of ringwood thing. I've heard that about Cluster hops. Some people really notice a cattiness about it while others don't.I've seen some posts saying the American Ale had a bad oder and some saying it doesn't. Could very well be a hop variety issue. I have only made the Grand Bohemian Czech Pilsner and it smells and tastes fine in it's first few days fermenting.
  5. "BigRiverBrewer" post=267367 said:...I started with the included WCPA, subbed out half the booster for 3/4 cup honey, dry hopped with Centennial at 8 days, added a 1.5" sprig of rosemary at 12... In the primary now is a Ginger Wheat. Can't wait to taste it! That's an interesting combo, glad everyone enjoyed it.Good luck with the ginger wheat.
  6. This thread raises an interesting question I had never really thought about. Boiling with the hops removed would be different than boiling with the hops still in the wort? Suppose I added 1 oz cascade to 2 gallons of boiling wort and removed the hop bag after 20 minutes, but continued to boil the wort for 40 minutes more. Would the result be more like a 60 minute boil with the same addition (IBU and bitterness) or more like a 20 minute boil (flavor and IBU)? I have usually assumed that boiling a HME would make the additions more bitter.
  7. I see the Munton's Dark HME doesn't specify what hops are used, but, it's probably all bittering, in which case it doesn't really matter.
  8. "oly" post=264972 said:I've seen that posted before...Can't think of any reason that it wouldn't work as advertised. Ditto.
  9. I'll be interested to hear how the new wheat HME does as a witbier. Are you adding any orange peel or spices?
  10. "Christ872" post=264886 said:...I'm going to go rogue with a Robust Porter... With those IBUs it makes me think Dark IPA.
  11. "hilkertj" post=262012 said:I like the new packaging. Mexican cerveza...good addition. I'm glad to see the Oktoberfest is still around! :banana: "Docniel" post=262309 said:That and St. Patrick's Irish Stout is still there! :charlie: Are they? I took a look at the Cooper's site to see how the HME offerings were similar to the new Mr. Beer HMEs. One can easily see that some of the new Mr. Beer HMEs are rebranded from the Cooper's HMEs. So, are new Mr. Beer HMEs that retained their old Mr. Beer name really the old Mr. Beer recipes or are they also rebranded Cooper's?
  12. The order is steep the grains, add UME and begin boil, add hops during boil, cool wort, I learned that you should use no more than 2 lbs of UME per gallon of water for the boil. Add the rest post boil. Both the color and flavor will be better. Plan to cool your wort close to fermentation temp. I use an ice bath.
  13. The overflow should not hurt. My only thought is that a 70 ambient temp is a bit high. This recipe would be great with a low 60's fermentation temp.
  14. I read somewhere to use less than 2 lbs extract per gallon of water during the boil, add the rest at flameout. My extract batches turned out with much better color when I followed that advice.
  15. "Joechianti" post=253259 said:Then does that mean there might be clowns in the beer? It's best to add hops (from bunnys) rather than yucks (from clowns). Too much yuck and funny isn't funny any more. Seriously I agree with the "lower your fermentation temps" in your other thread.
  16. I believe "cellar temp" (50ish?) is suggested rather than "room temp" (God only knows).
  17. I'll agree, no idea what the end product will be, but I'd order one...
  18. I've just started using Nottingham yeast because it came with some extract kits I've bought. The first one was supposed to be a Pilsner and I fermented in the 58-64 range (bit of diacetyl at first but decreasing). The second is an ongoing IPA fermented at 65-70, and the third (just started) Stout (also at 65-70).
  19. "bpgreen" post=250890 said:What operating system are you using? What browser? Where do you save your downloads? Yeah, I'm on Ubuntu Linux and the only tricky thing is where to put the newest updates.
  20. I like the video. It's fun to make beer!
  21. It's always fine to add a whole pack of either dry or liquid yeast (made for 5 gallons) to a Mr. Beer brew. There are a couple yeasts that might be better with less, Belgian and wheat. While the fermentation will be fine there has been some discussion about using half to get the traditional flavors by "stressing" the yeast. So unless you are going to argue that point you can use either a whole package or a half (if you are thrifty).
  22. "snakefetus" post=250361 said:No I didn't do a taste test yet. I think I will let it sit another week before I bottle, and will let them sit at least 3 weeks carbing, maybe more if I can wait longer Hahaha Personally, I do a lot of QC testing. I'll try a small shot glass taste once or twice a week during fermentation, I'll try a bottle at 1 week and 2 weeks carbing (if they're 12 oz bottles, at 2 weeks if 1 L), and although I know most beer will be better with some aging, I'll drink it all early if it is really good.
  23. "snakefetus" post=250346 said:...It has been 2 weeks exactly since I pitched the yeast and tucked the mr beer keg in my closet. There is still a decent layer of yeast floating on the top of the beer....Does this mean it is still fermenting and I should leave it longer before bottling?... 2-3 weeks fermenting is fine for the basic Mr. Beer refills if the fermentation temp has been good. (Note that this may be different from room temp. Consider getting a stickon temp strip for the keg). The real way to tell is with gravity measurements which you may be doing later on. Gravity measurements allow you to really know what stage the fermentation is at. "snakefetus" post=250346 said:...My first batch was undercarbonated, I let the beer sit in the bottles for 2 weeks and in the fridge for 3 days, If I let it sit in the bottles for longer before putting them in the fridge will it be more carbonated? Probably. Sometimes good carbonation takes longer than 2 weeks. Unless you added too little priming sugar, try one week longer carb.
  24. I've never seen anything like that. If you had caught it shortly after the blowout you may have been able to clean it up and continue. Too bad about that batch, for sure.
  25. Once while you are awake, perhaps more while you are sleeping...
×
×
  • Create New...