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Everything posted by The_Professor

  1. "mrbeer" post=249228 said:Awesome! Great! Super! Speculator! OK... this is simply a way to see the new "polling" feature. Cool eh!? But all the choices seem...similar
  2. Sounds like you know what you are doing realracer2. You are right the these kits are basically the same as any 5 gallon kit, they are extract recipes with steeping grains and hop boil. Strangely enough, while I saw the Leener's kits years ago while I was researching my Mr. Beer purchase, I just recently got some the the Homebrewers Outpost kits to try out. I have one carbing, one ready to bottle, and a third ready to brew. Check my post here if you like. Be aware that with only 2lbs DME you will want to fill below the normal fill mark on the keg. Note the comment that these are for 2 gallons. Good luck with your brew.
  3. If you were doing all grain I'd suggest a low hopped wheat or rye beer. With extract, maybe some wheat UME (liquid or dry as you prefer) light hopping with Hallertau in the 0.3-0.4 BU/GU range, maybe steep some crystal, clean American yeast? EDIT: Or either Hallertau or Cascade at 20 for flavor, aroma as desired.
  4. The simplest explanation is that steeping is soaking the grains in water. You can cold steep, steep as you heat the water, or bring the water to temp and soak the grains. Speciality grains are used for flavor and color. Mashing is holding the grain at certain temperatures for set amounts of time to allow the amylase enzyme in the malt to convert the starches to sugar which the yeast can turn into alcohol. When mashing, a brewer is concerned that there is a good proportion of "base malts" so all the grains starches can be converted. Mashing can also be accomplished in a number of ways, but the temps and timings can vary. Sparging or not doesn't really have anything to do with mashing or not.
  5. The Golden Wheat is Liquid UME. DME is dry UME. So a wheat dry UME (DME) will be a pretty close sub. (1-2 lbs) For a partial I'd think 50/50 wheat/2 row would work well. (2-2.5 lbs)
  6. bpgreen wrote: ba1980 wrote: ...at some point in the future I may look at doing a 5 gal batch using the Northern Brewer ingredients. You could always get the 5 gallon batch, split it in half and overfill the LBK. Or make it a little stronger. Extract kits with steeping grain and hop boils are a lot of fun. Go for it.
  7. losman26 wrote: The_Professor wrote: Have you considered doing timed yeast nutrient additions? Never heard of this technique... I ran across it doing some mead, something like this.Have you posted what yeast you are using?
  8. Have you considered doing timed yeast nutrient additions?
  9. jersey john wrote: ........... when has ANY one gone to jail for breaking the -200-gal law ?????????... Well maybe, but I don't want to learn to make pruno!
  10. meopilite wrote: I heard that the law prohibits anyone from brewing more than 100 gallons of beer at home per year. How do they keep track of how much we're brewing? They read your posts?I'm gonna suggest that as long as you don't have a 2 barrel conical fermenter in your yard, aren't selling your beer (without paying taxes) or allowing it to get in the hands of minors that no one cares if you make 80 or 120 gallons a year. Well, unless...
  11. I mash in a 3.75 gallon pot. 5+ lbs of grain is fine. I sparge in a 6.5 gallon bottling bucket with an extra large grain bag. Without mashing there is no sugar for the yeast.
  12. More head space than you normally want to have, but if the airlock is bubbling then it's filled with CO2. Why do you want to use the larger fermenter?
  13. Gymrat wrote: Personally I don't like my beer sitting on the yeast cake any longer than necessary. I bottle any beer 1.065 and below after 2 weeks. Higher than that and I will give it a full 3 weeks. If I wanted to go longer than 3 weeks I would rack to a secondary. This is pretty much what I do. There are instructions that suggest racking to secondary as soon as you are close to an FG and letting it sit 2 weeks. I'm not sure you're gonna see much difference between that and 2-3 weeks primary.
  14. I only estimate my brix by 1/4s at the smallest. So 5.0, 5.25, 5.5, 5.75, 6.0. Works perfectly fine to check the mash for conversion, check pre boil, as well as OG and FG with a small sample.
  15. You can do it either way. If there is UME in the recipe I'd add it for the boil. I used a minimum of 1 gallon for Mr. Beer batches, there will be some boil off so you will end up with less. Keep the UME to less than 2 lbs per gallon (during boil) for clearer beer.
  16. A hole with an attached air lock or blow off tube is usual.
  17. I dropped mine when it was full of beer, it cracked, and I only saved about half of it. Make sure it is good before you use it to ferment again.
  18. Noah0504 wrote: ...I'm about to attempt to make my second all-grain batch using the BIAB method and I'm going to try and make an English Bitter. I'm trying to keep it pretty simple and use what I can get, so this is what I came up with: 3.5 lbs. Maris Otter Malt 0.5 lbs. Crystal 75L 0.25 lbs. Flaked Wheat (Just for a little more body and head retention.) 1.0 oz. Kent Golding Hops (.25 oz. at 60 and another .25 oz. at 30 minutes) .25 oz. of Willamette (This will be to dry hop with. I want to get all my ingredients at the same place and right now they're out of Fuggles, so I figure this will be close enough... I believe any flaked grain is more of an adjunct that provides more sugar with less body. You should be using malted wheat for more body and head retention. I think.
  19. Personally, I'd do something like this: Bring your water to a boil, remove from heat and stir in the Wheat DME, return to heat and bring to a boil again watching for a boil over. Once the boil subsides a bit (it's no longer foaming a lot), set a timer for 10-15 minutes. Add the coriander and orange peel for the last 5 minutes. Add the WWW after removing the pot from the heat.
  20. UME = LME or DME So you're buying some extract. If it's not already clear, is it hopped? If it is then it is HME. If it is NOT hopped then it is UME. It could be unhopped LIQUID malt extract or unhopped DRY malt extract.
  21. rlandrau, one very nice thing you will learn about brewing your own beer is that you can make whatever beer you like. But you will probably make a few beers before you get a real direction you want to take. If you got a kit I'd suggest just brewing it up as is the first time. You need to learn that cleaning and sanitizing your brewing equipment is very important, that maintaining frementation temps is important, and that waiting the proper time at each step is important (usually 2 weeks fermenting, 2 weeks carbonating, (QC testing sample) and 2 weeks conditioning at a minimum) The first batch or two doesn't have to be fantastic, but just making beer that is beer is sort of magical. Then you know you can make any beer you want. Good Luck.
  22. highlandmck wrote: So how long should a ume be fermented?I heard not to long as it may spoil quicker I'm not sure I follow your question. If you are using UME and doing a hop boil you can ferment 2 or more weeks as usual.
  23. highlandmck wrote: ...He said i could make a beer out of the LME by just boiling some hops in it.Is this true? and how good would the beer taste? He had one that is only a week old but we tasted a bottle and it well was not ready and very sweet,i go as far as saying sickly sweet... You can make great beer with UME and hops boil! One thing that is very useful is a brewing program, like beercalculus to get the right numbers for stuff like ABV and IBU.
  24. NewMBbrewer wrote: i'll have to agree with MB on this one i think the 60% deal was more than appropiate does an occsional bad product get out,of course it does with any company i wish i could be compensated like that for being inconvenienced like that everytime at mcdonalds,lowes,bestbuy,etc texasbrewer0069 wrote: You already got your money back... now you have vented your frustration... Forget about it and brew on... I wonder if peter was PETER. If you returned the kit for a refund then the case is really closed other than frustration. Without everyone else being on the line during the conversation, trying to leverage one's frustration and then slurring Mr. Beer afterwards seems (fill in the blank).
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