Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Beer-lord

  1. That's probably right but that's just my opinion. For sure, dry hop because that's one major proof it's an IPA!
  2. In my opinion, no. I would, at a minimum, increase the 50 minute to 1 oz and the 2 late additions to 1/2 oz each and had at least 1/2 oz dry hopped the last 5-7 days. Almost all IPA's have some dry hopping.
  3. I use the Barley Crusher... http://www.barleycrusher.com/ Had it for over a year and I do nothing to it. Crushed a few hundred pounds with it since getting it.
  4. That DME can be used for almost any style of beer you want.
  5. I've done a 'hop stand' for 10 minutes and another for 20 and can't really say I've noticed much of a difference at all. I'm thinking you need 30 minutes or so but for me, nothing has beat dry hopping and lots of it. Often I let things sit a few minutes for chilling anyway and most of my beers are IPA's and have lots of late additions that really add to the aroma and flavor.
  6. I've used liquid yeast, mostly from harvested yeast and starters, much more the last 12 months thanks to Screwy and others who convinced me it's worth the little bit of time and love it. However, my last 3 beers, I've used dry yeast, mostly because I had them for awhile and wanted to use them before they expired. 2, I rehydrated and 1 I simply spinkled on top after aerating all. The dry yeast seems to start much faster than the liquid. Usually in 4-6 hours where the liquid with starters have taken 8-12 hours. Neither is worth complaining about and I'm doing well with both but I'm curious what others have found in their brewing.
  7. Just be careful not to burn or scorch the bag. Some folks on another forum had a discussion about that recently and many mentioned the painter bags gave way after they weren't careful and burned them. Just common sense but shyte happens.
  8. Its all good and many times, brews like this are surprisingly enjoyable and then, you can't make them again as you don't have all the ingredients. I'm sure it'll be good. Maybe not what you were aiming for, but good.
  9. My 2.8 cents (adjusted for inflation) is that you have more specialty malts than I think you need. I would increase one or both of the base malts and remove some of the specialty malts. I'm not saying it would be bad, but there's a lot of stuff going on there and I think you're going to likely have a more complex flavored beer than what you are aiming for (for a red ale). I agree with Chris too that you should mash for a minimum of 1 hour. I'm also a fan of Cascade and I enjoy using that hop alot.
  10. I won a bet last year when I bet a friend that on dry and winter days, I had less boil off. He looked it up and found out it was true (but I only got 1 beer out the bet).
  11. I do account for trub but I'm sure I'm not losing that much in an hour, I'm between 60 and 90 minutes and closer to 60. Next brew I'll keep my watch going and make a note as it boils away. But, I'm definitely going to use another calculator that is closer to what I'm seeing instead of following Beersmith. However, even if I followed Beersmith exactly, including trub, the OG would have been way off. This time, I barely squeezed my bag and I usually squeeze the bejezus out of it and get a lot of good wort from it. That would have made it even more so. In fact, anyone who wants to can tell me what they'd do with the following info: Total grains: 17.71 total hops (in boil) 8 oz Boil off 1.2/hour kettle diameter 17 1/8" kettle height (inside) 16 5/8" This is the same basic info I used for my smaller pot and it was almost dead on....the only exception was my smaller pot was a lot closer to 1 gallon per hour boil off.
  12. I had a bomber of the SSSR last week and I didn't think it was anywhere near my Black (either my CDA or my latest one I did similar to yours). It was, like all Stone beers, a breed to itself. I've got to get back to brewing something a little more sessionable as these big beers make me dizzy! <rolls eyes>
  13. I'm going to follow my usual 3 weeks in the fermenter than a week in the keg and another week or so in the kegerator before trying it. As with all hoppy beers, I want to enjoy this one young.
  14. Here's what I ended up using.....as of now I plan on doing the Levitation next week if things go well. I actually ended up with 5 gallons instead of 5.5 but not too shabby I guess. BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: Stone Sublimely Self-Righteous Ale Clone Brewer: Paul Asst Brewer: Style: Imperial IPA TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 6.93 gal Post Boil Volume: 5.93 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal Bottling Volume: 5.50 gal Estimated OG: 1.089 SG Estimated Color: 34.1 SRM Estimated IBU: 122.9 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 76.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 78.8 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 15 lbs 15.2 oz Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 1 90.1 % 14.1 oz Carafa III (Weyermann) (525.0 SRM) Grain 2 5.0 % 14.1 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 3 5.0 % 2.77 oz Chinook [13.00 %] - Boil 60.0 min Hop 4 97.2 IBUs 2.21 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 5 10.1 IBUs 2.21 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Boil 5.0 min Hop 6 15.5 IBUs 1.5 pkg SafAle English Ale (DCL/Fermentis #S-04) Yeast 7 - 2.20 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Day Hop 8 0.0 IBUs 2.20 oz Simcoe [13.00 %] - Dry Hop 5.0 Days Hop 9 0.0 IBUs Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 17 lbs 11.4 oz ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Mash In Add 22.14 qt of water at 163.7 F 152.0 F 60 min Sparge: Batch sparge with 5 steps (Drain mash tun, , 0.88gal, 0.88gal, 0.88gal, 0.88gal) of 168.0 F water Notes: ------
  15. Jeez, you can't even search these forums to find a previous post!!!!! We all had our share of my version of the Maharaja.....damn, I'm extremely happy with this beer. Even though it's only 8.5% compared to 10%, it's a smooth, extremely balanced beer. I can taste the quality and am surprised that I brewed something this good. It's so good from the keg even after only 1 week on gas I can't believe it. It shall be done again in the future.
  16. Today I brewed the biggest beer to date, and loved every smelling minute of it. I had to boil longer than anticipated but my evil twin and a mate came by near the end to help with the cleanup (and BBQ and drink lots of beers). Can't wait to see how this one ends up.
  17. Chris, one can never know everything about brewing but I did know my old kettle like the back of my hand (what does that REALLY mean?). But, I'm still getting use to this new, 15 gallon pot so maybe that's the problem! I think after today, I may have it down so I'll try next week again (if I have to) and brew another batch to see where I stand. What to brew?
  18. Just checked my kettle calibrations for gallons and it's almost dead on. I actually boiled more than I needed and came out with 5 gallons instead of 5.5 no biggie. Hit 1.094 instead of 1.089.....now officially the biggest beer I've brewed. I do think part of my problem is I'm not use to my new, 15 gallon kettle and the boil off still seems to be about 1 gallon an hour, maybe a tad bit more. I'm just going to follow another spreadsheet program I use instead of using Beersmith for water amounts.
  19. Once again, Beersmith is giving me way to much water for my BIAB. I even cut it down 1/2 gallon and I'm still going to have to boil an extra 30-45 minutes to hit my numbers. What's up with that? I've got my pot info in correctly but find other calculators on the net more accurate. Oh well, it's just extra propane wasted and an extra hour in 94 degree heat. Not that I have a problem with that!
  20. I agree with Ron but looking at mrmalty.com, it shows for 4 gallons and dry yeast that 1 packet should be enough. Though, I personally like to reydrate mine when it's that close and I'm above 1.060.
  21. It should still be good. It's pretty normal for them to harden.
  22. Yeah, they're pretty disgusting. I hope they didn't make you sick. Next time, don't drink them but send them to me......I can use the empty bottles to put good beer in.
  23. I don't blame you for worrying about bottle bombs! Just a few thoughts......I doubt it's the reason but temperature changes can cause this though it's odd. Maybe if you have another airlock, you can try using it just in case it's funky. It could just be dissolved CO2 coming out of solution. I would suggest just raising the temperature a few degrees for a few days and see what it does. The gravity may not change but the yeast might get active enough to finish things off. You did have lots of sugar in there so I'm thinking it just slowed down.
  24. I have 2 different size Vittles Vaults. You can get them at Petco but they are cheaper online. They lock out air and keep things uber fresh for a very long time. But they aren't cheap. I also have extra large zip lock backs that I put my 50 lbs bags of 2 row in (it takes 2 of these bags to fit all 50 lbs). This way, it a bag rips or spills, the grains don't get mixed. Works for me and the containers will last a lifetime.
  • Create New...