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MedWonk

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About MedWonk

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  1. The kit WCPA won't knock your socks off, but if you let it warm up a little to around 45 degrees, you'll find that the flavor really mellows out and it becomes a somewhat better PBR.
  2. I fermented 3 weeks, then carbed/condition for 6. So, I did the 3/3/3 plan. I imagine doing an all-malt recipe will taste much better, so that's what I'll be doing next. Haven't decided which recipe, I'll do yet, though.
  3. ...and it tastes kinda like a somewhat better PBR. So, success? The beer was a little overcarbonated, maybe. Next time, I'll shoot for the lower end of Screwy's recommendation. Otherwise, it's certainly beer, so I can't complain.
  4. bpgreen wrote: MedWonk wrote: bpgreen wrote: In my opinion, you should try to brew a little cooler than that. Really? Aren't the MB yeast packets supposed to be between 68 and 76? Wouldn't putting the temp lower risk stopping fermentation? The Mr Beer booklet does show 68-76 as the ideal temperature range. I like a cleaner fermentation, so I brew at lower temperatures. It may take longer at lower temperatures, and once the first week is past, it's fine to let temps rise, but the Mr Beer yeast will ferment fine in the mid 60s. It's more tolerant of higher temperatures than a lot of other yeasts, and fermenting at higher temperatures will ferment faster, but when you get into the mid 70s or so, you're likely to get some esters even with the Mr Beer yeast. Cool. I'll keep this in mind for my next brew, not least because fermenting at a lower temp will be a lot easier.
  5. bpgreen wrote: In my opinion, you should try to brew a little cooler than that. Really? Aren't the MB yeast packets supposed to be between 68 and 76? Wouldn't putting the temp lower risk stopping fermentation?
  6. I think the temperature was fine. There were a couple of times where the temp dropped to about 66* (couldn't have been at that temp for more than 12 hours), but most of the time I've maintained the temp 70* to 72*. Whoever came up with keeping the LBK in a cooler and controlling temp with bottles of water was a genius.
  7. So, I'm making the simple booster WCPA recipe, and after 3 weeks of fermentation, I have two FG readings of 1.010, and a decent tasting flat pale ale (which I was pleasantly surprised by). The OG reading was 1.034. Does that sound like a good FG?
  8. So, I just finished with the first part of the WCPA recipe that comes with the MB kit (WCPA HME + Booster), and it's in the keg fermenting (I think). I measured the gravity of the brew just before sprinkling the yeast into the LBK, and it was 1.034. It seems a little low, but would that be because of only using one can of malt extract?
  9. How long will an open packet of dry yeast keep in the fridge?
  10. What would the benefit be of adding more yeast?
  11. I have to say, I'm very impressed with how fast you guys respond on this forum. Thanks for the replies!
  12. And I'm assuming when conditioning, the temperature is kept within the range for the yeast used, right?
  13. So, I know lagering in the sense of brewing with a lager yeast at lower temperatures, but Mr. Beer seems to be using it differently. Is lagering in this case meant to refer to just conditioning? Or does it also include carbonating the beer? For example, if it says to lager for at least one month, do they mean carbonate and condition for at least one month, or they simply mean condition for one month after carbonating?
  14. So, I'm new brewer, and I have a question about how long to dry hop. The Mr. Beer recipes tell me to drop in the bag of hops right after boiling and adding the malt extracts. I've read that people dry hop for 7 - 14 days, but if I plan on letting the brew ferment for 21 days, what would happen if I let the hops stay in there for 21 days? The Mr. Beer FAQs are really adamant about not opening the keg while the brew ferments, so I'm hoping to avoid that, but if it comes down to opening the keg, how long can it be open without ruining the brew? A minute? Less?
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