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About Dustin

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. "Screwy Brewer" post=300915 said:Dustin, The only real way to tell if your fermentation is done is to get the same FG reading for 2-3 days in a row. But if you don't have a hydrometer letting it go 21 days won't hurt anything, unless you're in a hurry to brew another batch. I've got a hydrometer lol I typically do not make a habit of taking gravity readings many days in a row unless I am worried about the process. In this case and with the drastic change in gravity in only 8 days I will just let it sit another week and bottle. Thanks
  2. Thanks Dave, and usually I ferment at least 14 days sometimes 18 - 21 depending on gravity. I was just super psyched that the majority of the fermentation happened that fast and my efficiency was so good especially being out of brewing for 6 months I thought my skills would have diminished.
  3. Hello folks, its been a few months since my last visit here. I had to take the summer and fall off of brewing and I just brewed my first batch since May. My question is I achieved FG in record time 8 days and I am asking if this sounds normal to any of you. Here are the details. This is a basic all grain batch. 10lbs of US Two Row 2 lbs of Crystal 20L 8 oz maltodextrine (last 2 minutes of the boil) 1 oz US Golding (60 min) 1 oz Crystal (45 min) 1 oz US Golding (10 min) 1 wyeast smack pack with activator of American Ale Yeast In qBrew my estimated OG was 1.066 and I actually got 1.060 so that is pretty good. qBrew estimated my final gravity at 1.016 and only after 8 days of fermentation I am sitting at 1.010 right now which should be right around 6.7 ABV which is exactly what I was shooting for but is 8 days way to short of a time to get that much gravity change? I estimated my mash efficiency at about 83%. I just tested the gravity and tasted it and it all looks, tastes, and smells great. I guess this yeast must just act very fast because 8 days seems super quick if you ask me. Just looking for your thoughts.
  4. "bucknut" post=277941 said:Born in Columbus, lived there til I was 25 then went into the Navy. Still have family there though and visit them when I can. I live now in Georgia but have always considered myself a Buckeye! OH
  5. I live in Dayton and work at The Ohio State University. Go Bucks!!!
  6. I think those people may expierence leaks because I've used my for a hell of a lot longer than that. I also use plastic pop bottles much longer than 5 batches and they are still going strong. Basically just use them as long as you are still getting good results. There is no set time you have to get rid of them. If your seal is bad then change them out.
  7. I made two 5 gallon batches of Kolsch and it is my favorite thus far.
  8. Dustin


    "k9dude" post=264418 said:I usually go for about 1 lb for a LBK batch so I would think maybe 2 to 2 1/2 lbs per carboy. That is about what I was thinking but I have seen some insane recipes calling for 4 pounds or more and I was thinking that is way too much. Thanks for the help. I was going to go about 1.5 lbs per carboy so I was on the right track.
  9. I know the topic of fruit has come up in the past and I apoligize I just dont have the time too search all the old post to find my answer I was hoping someone could just give me a ball park figure regarding approx how much fruit pounds or ounces I would add for fruit wheat beer. I will be adding fresh fruit and I know how to prepare the fruit I am just looking for a good ammount to add so that I dont end up with CoolAid or barely being able to taste it. Just a good medium. I did a 10 gallon batch of standard 50 50 2row and wheat malt split between two carboys so I am looking at doing a rasberry in one carboy and starwberry in the other carboy. Thanks
  10. "Screwy Brewer" post=263352 said:Another thing to try is fill your mash tun using 1.25 mash thickness then mash as usual and lauter into your 9 gallon boil pot until it's nearly full. Then fill another two or three gallon pot with the remaining sweet wort and bring it to a boil. Of course you don't want to lauter off any more wort unless it's around 1.020 to prevent extracting tannins. The idea being to replace the boiled off wort from the nine gallon pot with boiling wort from the smaller pot as needed. After cooling down the wort just add in some makeup water to the fermentors, that will keep your OG within a point or two of a full boil. That is a legit idea right there since I am up to my eyeballs in boil pots.
  11. Sounds good. I just have this big mash tun now and I am really tired of brewing two seperate 5 gallon batches when I can just brew one 10 gallon batch and cut the time in half. I have about 7 recipes now that I really like and I am fully content brewing very larg batches of this beer so brew days are further apart. This way I can probably brew once a month istead of two or three times. As much as I love brew day I've learned very quickly that moving to all grain is a lot more time consuming but worth it because the final product in my opinion is much better. Thanks again.
  12. But you can just make up for that by adding grain and hops to cover the extra water added at the end right? I guess I could just to an 8 gallon batch put into two separate carboys.
  13. Quick question. I now have a large enough mash tun to make 10 gallon batches but I only have a boil pot capable of doing 8.5 maybe 9 gallon boils. So would it still be ok to do a boil that is not full volume and just add a gallon or so water in the carboys when I fill them with the wort? Well I know its ok but what sort of drawbacks would arise from doing it that way. I've spent enough money and I really don't want to go by yet another boil pot. Thanks in advance.
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