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Everything posted by USMCMatt

  1. According to the owner of Yweast he's "comfortable holding it for a month"
  2. "It didn't really make an attempt to address prehopped extracts" now that makes a lot of sense, thank you for breaking that down bp (except the math part, wat?)
  3. Ok I thought as much, just getting confused looking at the numbers. After adding the HME to both and adjusting the HME under hops to 1oz it looks more like what I was expecting.
  4. You *could* but there's a lot of worry about contamination. Ice factories are anything but clean, even if it's drinking ice. A sanitized bag that won't melt might work but that's a lot of chances of things going wrong.
  5. bpgreen wrote: If you're using 1 HME, 1 UME and a pound of DME, you're going to end up with a beer that is pretty malty. One thing to note is that the way Qbrew calculates IBUs doesn't work very well when you're using HME and adding a lot of unhopped malt. If you add the HME by itself under the malt (grain?) tab as 1.21 lb and the hop tab as 1 oz with a 5 minute boil, you'll get the correct IBU number. Make a note of that. Then add the UME and DME. The IBUs probably dropped. This is because of the way Qbrew calculates IBUs. It assumes that you're doing a full volume boil with all ingredients. Since higher gravity wort reduces the efficiency of the hops utilization, Qbrew assigns a lower number. But the actual IBUs are the ones you got when you added teh HME by itself. Interesting but confusing. 1.210 under grains and again but 1oz under hops? Is this the QBrew method for all MrBeer HMEs? Also I am looking for something a tad more malty. Do you think this is a little overkill? Should I cut down the DME a bit in your experience?
  6. Kealia wrote: Did you take it off the GRAINS tab? It should be in both. I did take it off the GRAINS tab: Now it's in both. So all HME's you add to both sections?
  7. gbryant wrote: Q-brew is not one hundred percent accurate for IBU's using Mr. Beer HME's the general consensus is to enter the HME can as a five minute boil. This does not mean use should only do a five minute hop boil if you are actually boiling hops. There are other things you need to think about if you are doing a hop boil. If you are just trying to represent the IBU of the can of HME, then select the St. Pats from the drop down menu and select a five minute boil. Using only one can of HME with a can of UME and a pound of DME is probably going to make for a pretty malty beer. You might want to consider a hop boil. Are you saying to do a hop boil in water before killing heat and adding my cans?
  8. Ok switched it over, but now I can't believe that this is going to be 4% abv.
  9. St. Pats is a HME Creamy Brown is a UME Maybe that's it, never used MrBeer stuff in a brew program
  10. QBrew, Hops and achieving bitterness Quick question regarding hops in QBrew, I'm attempting to use Qbrew for the first time for MrBeer only stuff. I'm planning on making the Oatmeal Stout on Friday and using QBrew to finish it off. The Grains fyi are st pats, creamy brown, and 1lb dark DME I'm confused on how it handles Hops in the mix. How do I handle the boil setting? I only have 5 in there because that's what I'm seeing from other MrB Qbrewers, but I look to be way outside of the style. Can anyone clear all this up for me?
  11. Again you don't want yeast to be churning away at the top of it's recommend temperature range, it'll start producing harsher flavors. However at the end of a fermentation it's ok to ramp up the temp slightly right before bottling.
  12. Yeah I'm sure we can handle his "problem"
  13. SmokeDiver3zero wrote: Looks good - try some Pomegrante Mead, it's better! Cheers! :chug: Got a recipe for this?
  14. Joechianti wrote: how do you know they are food safe? USMCMatt wrote: Because the giant sign in the store says they are as well as the FDA labels on the container, and the plastic code molded into the bucket, and the literally thousands of homebrewers that use them and every LHBS on the planet. Matt, seems like an airtight case there, but OJ got off on stronger evidence than that. haha everyone in the office is wondering why I just burst out laughing
  15. Yes but always try to stick to the lower range of the ferment temps. My fermenting chamber is always at 66
  16. haerbob3 wrote: how do you know they are food safe? Because the giant sign in the store says they are as well as the FDA labels on the container, and the plastic code molded into the bucket, and the literally thousands of homebrewers that use them and every LHBS on the planet.
  17. Something tells me you're not going to be able to wait the 4 weeks haha
  18. I'd say it's the less messy'ist option you can take, it's very clean and a million times easier to wash and clean then a carboy.
  19. I already heard BIAB day is a shorter brew day because there's so much less to clean and such, is this not true?
  20. Docniel wrote: USMC Mat, the airlock is in the lid right?? How much one step do you use for sanitizing? Do you have a spigot on there too for ease of transferring to bottles or secondary? I have moved on and for bigger things use botter bottles now, but.. lids are like $1 and if it's a DIY, you drill a hole put a grommet in and add an airlock On these I don't I just use a auto siphon, but drilling a hole and putting one in is super easy, just get a plastic spigot assembly from any homebrew store/place or again lowes, etc. I use a whole packet myself but then I use the water to clean other things as well and double duty it to cut down on time.
  21. You can get all the pickle buckets you want at any Firehouse Subs for a $2 donation. That being said you shouldn't use them for making beer, wine or anything else. Just go to Lowes and get their food grade ones for like $3
  22. haerbob3 wrote: Great burner have one but seriously it takes about 20 mins ok ok maybe I was embellishing
  23. Maybe add a little Dark DME? I definitely use a different yeast like Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale. Or if you'd rather use a dry yeast the Safale S-04 Dry Ale Yeast
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