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HoppyDaze

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About HoppyDaze

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  1. All of this info will help a lot. I really appreciate it!
  2. bpgreen wrote: HoppyDaze wrote: bpgreen wrote: HoppyDaze wrote: I want to make sure i get this right. Do you do a 1 hour boil for DME then at flame out add HME? I have 2 cans of HCCD that I want to use along with 1lb of DME and want to make sure Im doin this right. I am also adding .5oz of East Kent Goldings. That's the process. Thanks bpgreen!! Just wanted to make sure it was still a 1 hour boil and not something else Wait. Not so fast. I just realized you're not doing a 60 minute hop boil. There's no need to boil the DME for 60 minutes if you're not boiling hops for 60 minutes. So what you are saying is the boil time is set by the hop characteristic I am looking for. Say I what to add hops for a little more flavor. I see the chart says 20 min would be the optimum boil time for this. I guess I get that. I guess my question is does the DME need to be part of the boil process or can I add it at flame out? Sorry if I am making this sound more complicated than it is
  3. bpgreen wrote: HoppyDaze wrote: I want to make sure i get this right. Do you do a 1 hour boil for DME then at flame out add HME? I have 2 cans of HCCD that I want to use along with 1lb of DME and want to make sure Im doin this right. I am also adding .5oz of East Kent Goldings. That's the process. Thanks bpgreen!! Just wanted to make sure it was still a 1 hour boil and not something else
  4. I want to make sure i get this right. Do you do a 1 hour boil for DME then at flame out add HME? I have 2 cans of HCCD that I want to use along with 1lb of DME and want to make sure Im doin this right. I am also adding .5oz of East Kent Goldings.
  5. I am using the Coors lite home draft and I filled it about 3 inches from the top of the spout. This is the first time using it and so far its working great. I thought about tap-a-draft but its way more expensive than buying the Coors/Miller Home Draft. For $20 you get beer, bottle and tap. Midwest wants $35 just for the tap itself.
  6. Well I pitched the whole pack for my 2.5gal batch and from what I am reading that this is not a bad thing...the more yeast cells the better!!
  7. Thanks for the replies!! Im pretty excited about this one since its my first all grain...so far things are going well..20 mins to mash out!
  8. My first AG BIAB is on the stove and i have not used a liquid yeast before. I just took the yeast pack out of the fridge. My question is, do I need to let it warm up a bit and then activate the pack or do I do it now.
  9. Looks great geno!! A barleywine is definately one thats on the list do soon. Adding a mead to that list also!
  10. I wouldnt sweat it...as long as it was clean before you started mixing you should be ok. RDWHYAHB!!
  11. Go overboard with hops? Not possible in my book!!
  12. My 5gal ale pail, that I have had for years, came with an "italian" spigot which is a little larger than the one that MB is going to offer. I have added them to all of my LBK's so I can use any of them for bottling. I just had to make the hole a little larger. It is extreamly easy to attach the bottling wand. I usually batch prime where I will transfer about half of my beer into another LBK, add the priming solution (cooled sugar water) and then add the rest. That way the action of the beer flowing into the LBK will mix the priming sugar evenly into the beer. just my 2 cents
  13. It looks like your on your way! As long as you know it is suppose to taste flat and that time will only improve your beer you will do good.
  14. I know OC is a cleaner but I dont think its to be used as a sanitizer. I use it to clean my equipment and then use star san.
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