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  1. "jbags" post=389753 said:Generally best to do a starter with the liquid yeast anyway - does two things. 1. Confirms yeast viability as the liquid are prone to failure particularly in the hot months. 2. Shortens lag time. I know folks say liquid yeast produce better beer but I simply have not noticed any discernible difference so I just opt for reliability, durability, and consistency of dry yeast. To each their own. But when I started doing yeast starters with liquid yeast, my Homebrew went to another level. Don't get me wrong, I've made some great beers with dry yeast. But starters make a big difference IMO. Plus, I just keep washing it and recycling making more starters. I'm a firm believer in reducing lag time to produce better, cleaner tasting beer. I definitely think dry yeast works best when rehydrated. But is it as good as a starter from liquid? That's up to each individual to decide.
  2. I used this same yeast a while back for a 9% Strong Ale that turned out awesome! I can't comment on the bag inflation because I couldn't locate the smack pack. I just assumed they forgot to add the nutrient pack. But it was discovered upon opening. I cut it open and added to my yeast starter. I had a full krausen overflow @ 8 hours. This was the only Wyeast pack I ever had a problem trying to smack or find the nutrient pack. Maybe you just didn't break the pack?
  3. Welcome back! Sometimes life just gets in the way and we find ourselves not brewing. But the brewing itch always returns with promises of great tasting homebrew!
  4. Holy crap! :ohmy: I now know who will be the MrBeer BOM for August! :whistle: :cheers: :party:
  5. Plus those other forums would never devulge the secret correlation between beards and great homebrew. They keep useful information like that secret and hoard it. But not so here on the Borg! We share everything. Some times it's too much information though. No need for more post about showering with Inkleg. It's bad enough he post pictures of naked cats! :pinch: LOL!
  6. "Inkleg" post=386233 said:Mash just settled in at 151° The 1oz are 12-14 days total and the .25 are with 5 days left in the dry hop. I would love to be there when you do the hops boil. Just thinking of the smell is releasing endorphins in my brain and my chops are dripping thinking about the taste of that first pour! Happy brewing!
  7. Welcome to the Borg! You've discovered a great forum and and some great folks! Dive into recommended reading and you will be making great beer in no time!
  8. This is getting put on my to brew list. I find my self doing a lot of Belgian styles lately. They take a while to mature. But they are so worth it. I'm drinking a Belgium Blonde right now that borders on the edge of a Strong Ale. It's pretty delicious! Plus I didn't have to pay out the cornhole for it like I would a commercial example. But I really want to create a Belgium that can be enjoyed as a session beer that will keep me upright for a while. I think this might do it.
  9. Brewing during summer months can be tough. Water bottles in a bevareage cooler or a homemade swamp cooler get things done. The best way is a fridge and a Johnson controller. I'm lucky enough to have a brew room in the basement that stay 64 deg yr round. I have a friend that built a brew chamber out of 2x4s, plywood, some foam insulation, a small window A/C unit, a Johnson controller and a heat lamp for winter temps. It works pretty slick in his garage. I'm thinking of building one myself!
  10. A spray down cleaning of the condenser fins can make a world of difference. I have to do mine every year or my A/C barely keeps up. A comb set for the fins can be used if some of them are bent or smashed. Also, beware of the capacitors inside the unit. They store a lot of energy. Give them plenty of time to discharge if you go poking around them.
  11. Thanks for posting the recipe Jim! My batch was scaled up for a 5 gal batch. I only added the 60 min addition for the hops and I used the White Labs version of the Hefe yeast. We opted to ferment at a cooler temp to get more clove and dark fruit esters. I think it worked out very well. It's a really great brew. Enjoy!
  12. "azmark" post=381259 said:I just get em crushed, even a grinder will produce some powder. I don't turn the husk into dust. If you don't produce tannins through a grinder, you wont this way either. I can agree with that. even mills produce a bit of powder. The point I was trying to make was not too over crush. Once you have turned the husk to powder, you risk tannins in your brew. I had to point this out to the new guys that might be trying steeping or AG mashes. Over crushing can sometimes lead to worse results than sparging or mashing with higher temps. I just had to point out the tannin risk.
  13. When I did LBK sized batches, i pitched a full pack of dry yeast. I've pitched just one pack for lower gravity beers on 5 gal batches that have resulted in great beers. I am a firm believer in rehydrating though. IMO it reduces lag time, and makes better beer. Its always better to over pitch than under pitch. But if you want to take your brews to another level of quality, use liquide yeast and do a starter. I firmly believe that this helped step my brews up from very good to great. It reduces lag time and beers attenuate better and faster. I can take most beers from brew to glass in 3 weeks by force carbing in a keg after a few days of fermenting. Most of my beers reach estimated FG in 5 days. I brew a wheat and a cream ale that I can drink in 14 days mostly because of the yeast starter I do. Anyway the point I'm trying to make is that if you pitch extra yeast cells, your beer will brew faster and be ready to keg or bottle sooner. If you use dry yeast, you can help things along by rehydrating. But there is a limiit on over pitching. too much yeast will make them lazy and the give up too early and end up with under attenuated brews. Mostly it comes down to fresh, healthy yeast and having enough celss to get the job done. But sometimes you have to under pitch to get desirable esters in certain beers. This can not be rushed.
  14. I disagree on grinding grains to powder. Using a coffee grinder or anything as such should be discouraged. Just because you're only steeping doesn't mean that you won't end up with tannins. IT WILL HAPPEN if you pulverize the grain to flour. Over crushing will produce tannins, even when steeping . Unless you like astringent brews, then by all means proceed.
  15. If you want piney, go with Simpco or Chinook as heavily added late additions or dry hopped. But keep in mind that these additions are best drank young.
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