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About manosteel9423

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  1. "JimH" post=380816 said: "manosteel9423" post=380653 said:Thanks guys. Not too worried about carbonation. I added more yeast at bottling, so it should carb with no problems. The one bonus was, even though my spice bag had broken and the spices all went in commando, this might have been the clearest beer I've ever bottled!! LMAO! Take the positives in life! It is certainly a learning experience! I learned very early in this obsession, Jim, that no matter how careful you are or how diligent, you will always have some issue or another to overcome. Unless something goes woefully wrong (like pouring Iodophor solution in my beer! ) I try to just roll with the punches and problem solve the issues. This one was a drop in the bucket compared to some, so no big deal. And Screwy...I didn't have the patience to wait long enough for all the ice the melt, so I guess I got a quasi-Eisenbock since there was still a layer of ice left in the LBK after the transfer to the bottling bucket. I'll be sure to let everyone know how it turns out! :barman:
  2. Welcome aboard, Joe! Let me ask...are you using the Mr Beer guidelines for priming sugar? If so, you may have over-carbed your beer a little bit, causing your issue. Let us know whether you bottle primed or batch primed and how much sugar you used. That will help with the diagnosis. Also, what is the recipe, time and temp in LBK, time and temp carbing/conditioning and how many days was the beer in the fridge prior to pouring?
  3. Thanks guys. Not too worried about carbonation. I added more yeast at bottling, so it should carb with no problems. The one bonus was, even though my spice bag had broken and the spices all went in commando, this might have been the clearest beer I've ever bottled!! LMAO!
  4. Well, chalk this one up to another "Oops" moment! :blush: I tossed my LBK full of the spring seasonal into my garage fridge a few days ago for the cold crash. I had done this many times before with no issues, but somebody must have messed with the controls on the fridge at some point over the last few days because yesterday morning when I went to grab a bottle of water out of that fridge, it was frozen solid. At first, I didn't think much of it, I just turned the fridge down a bit and moved on. However, as I was preparing, several hours later, to bottle my precious beer (and make another batch at the same time using some yeast slurry from the soon to be empty LBK) the thought occurred to me that this one might have gotten a bit too cold! Sure enough, I went out to the fridge, grabbed the LBK, and heard a faint "crunch" as the ice inside it cracked!! I brought it in the house and opened the lid. I had about an inch of ice beer on the surface. The rest was still liquid. I decided to continue with my brewing process, using a fresh package of yeast, and save a bit of the 11.5g satchet of yeast to use in the batch priming process just in case the yeast in the frozen LBK had bit the proverbial bullet. A few hours later...the beer had thawed and I proceeded with the bottling process, adding a couple of grams of yeast along with the priming solution. I'm sure it will turn out fine, just thought I would share the experience and ask the Borg if anyone had ever had a similar experience?
  5. Short answer...no. The lid of the fermenter has slots in it designed to allow air out during fermentation so there is no build up of CO2 inside the LBK. Those same slots will leak liquid if the LBK is turned upside down or on its end. EDIT: Sorry, its not the lid itself that has the slots, its the LBK where the lid screws on, but the answer remains the same...do not ferment on its end. Unless, of course, the batch is small enough that the liquid doesn't reach the lid, but that wouldn't be very much beer...maybe a gallon?
  6. There was a post around here somewhere about a guy who had left his beer in the fermenter for about a year and he bottled it...don't remember the outcome, but the best advice is always to bottle, wait four weeks and try one. If its terrible, then you'll know why, otherwise, you have beer!
  7. I tossed my LBK in the fridge for the cold crash yesterday, plan to bottle this weekend. Despite some of the reviews, I'm actually looking forward to this beer!
  8. "Kealia" post=372229 said: "asnider" post=372209 said: "Bbohanon" post=372198 said:Just tried mine..2 weeks in lbk, 3weeks in room temp bottles conditioning. What were your OG and FG readings? 2 weeks in the LBK seems pretty short for higher gravity beer. Not really. With a good pitch rate and controlled temps there is no reason that 2 weeks isn't plenty of time to ferment and clean up. The 3 week 'recommendation' is a safe one to make for those that don't have a hydrometer but it's not "necessary". I put that in quotes because some like to use a 3-week cycle for their beers and they believe that 3 weeks makes a difference to them. I don't question that or challenge their belief, but I think even they would agree that it's choice, not necessity. +1 Primary fermentation, even in a higher gravity beer, is usually done within 7-10 days. I have rarely had a beer that wasn't ready to bottle after two weeks. That said, when I took the hydro sample on this one over the weekend and it came in at 1.018, I thought I'd leave it for an extra week or so to see if I get another couple of points out of it. T-58 can be funny that way sometimes...
  9. +1 to BlackDuck. I like my IPAs young, so I would probably have finished this batch off by now! Haha. Seriously, though, you won't get the full use of that big dry hop if you don't start drinking it soon. The aroma will diminish over time and with that OG, I doubt it requires an extended conditioning time. Drink away and report back on the results!!
  10. "rippsnorter" post=371909 said:Oh so you're a full 1% over the advertised abv. What was you're reasoning for using that amount of yeast? This was my first successful batch so I'm trying to soak up as much knowledge as possible Not to jump into the conversation, but the 11g satchet of yeast is designed for a 5 gallon recipe. Many Mr Beer brewers will use half a package for an LBK sized batch because its to scale. Pitching the entire package is not an issue, but if you can get two batches out of a packet, then why not do so? However, if you aren't able to use the other half within a week or so, then there is no point saving it since it loses its viability rather quickly once opened. I used the entire package for mine, but its the first time I have pitched 11g of yeast into an LBK sized batch since the last seasonal...over a year ago...but that was a true lager (Imperial Pilsner) and lagers require higher pitching rates anyways. Of course, I also plan to dump my second batch of this seasonal right on top of the yeast cake from this one, so I'll still get two batches out of one packet, so... :banana:
  11. Thanks for that info, k9. I have been researching AG and specifically no chill for quite a while and I have finally gathered all of the equipment I need to make the plunge. Its good to know that there are some people here on the Borg that are also using the method...makes me feel a bit better about how it will turn out for me. For me, the decision wasn't really about the money, because I could make a wort chiller for about $25 and the water cube cost me about $15, so not a big difference (of course the cost of water is an issue as well, but not something I'm taking into account here). The big deciding factor for me was the time, effort and the ability to do a RWS...I just think its better to use the actual wort for the starter. I figure I will save myself about an our on brew day, have a real wort starter ready to pitch within 24 hours, aerate the wort as I pour it from the cube to the fermenter and should be able to leave the majority of the kettle trub behind in the cube, clearing the beer better than you can with a quick cold break with a chiller. As long as I follow sound sanitation procedures, I don't see the downside.
  12. "k9dude" post=371853 said:I don't brew Pilsner's (with the exception of the one Mr. Beer Seasonal), so I guess that's why it's never really been an issue for me using the no chill method. I do think in the future I will try to chill my wort down to at least 165F to 170F before crunching on the aluminum foil and setting in the oven over night. My beer is too precious to me to take a chance on it being harmed! That's an interesting no chill method, k9...putting it in the oven. My first AG beer is being brewed next weekend and I will be doing no chill in an HDPE water container. Its a 5 gallon container, that holds about 5.5g of liquid. I'll be transferring my wort from the kettle, via a built in spigot, directly to the container right after the boil finishes. Then putting the water cube in my fermentation closet at ~65*, expecting the wort to get well under the 175* range within an hour or so, eliminating the concern for excess DMS. You would think that the oven would be so well insulated that it would take longer for the wort to cool while in there, wouldn't it? The heat from the pot wouldn't dissipate as quickly, right? Just curious to get the thoughts of someone that has been doing it for a while. Also, do you mind sharing if you do RWS (Real Wort Starters) for your beers? This, to me, seems to be one of the bigger benefits to the no chill method. Using a sample of the actual wort for a 24 hour starter while it chills would seem to be an ideal way to make a starter.
  13. Kealia is right that you can still get DMS while the wort chills if it doesn't cool quickly enough, so covering it and steeping the coffee could produce some DMS, but its unlikely. DMS is only produced at high temperatures and its my understanding that once the wort cools below about 180*F it is no longer a problem. Even while sitting in open air, the wort will cool below 180* in about an hour or two. Considering the small amount of wort we are talking about, its highly unlikely that any noticeable DMS would accumulate in the wort during that short a period. As for the question at hand...20 minutes in a covered pot really should not be an issue at all.
  14. "rippsnorter" post=371411 said:So I was just gonna bottle blind today, but I finally got a good hydrometer in the mail from MrB, so I decided to test it. Its been cold crashing for 3 days and is at 50°. The gravity reading I got was 1.010. The temperature adjusted reading I got using the Screwy Calc is 1.0095. Does that sound right? Seems a lot lower than what most are getting Edit: Sample got up to 65 and I retested. 1.009. Wish I knew what my OG was. Most were getting around a 1.064, using that number I should be around a 7.2 abv Its strange that we are getting such variations in the FG on this beer within the Borg. I just took an SG reading and got 1.018 (OG was 1.060 thanks to a small spillage). Based on the early reports, I would have expected that to be a solid FG, however, I think I'll ride this one out another week and see where it ends up. It is currently 15 days in the fermenter. Having tasted the sample, I can understand the disappointment in the bitterness of the beer, but I don't get all the outcry over a lack of aroma. Even uncarbed, there was a definite aroma to this beer. I was going to dry hop 1/2 oz of Cascade, but have decided against it. While I'm sure that most of the aroma I am getting is from the spices that were added and not the hops, I want to see what this one is like when fully carbed and poured into a glass before I go messing with it too much. I think that sometimes we forget what a difference full carbonation can have on the aroma profile of a beer. All this complaining from gravity samples might be completely unfounded.
  15. Ripp...its not unusual for beer to have some CO2 in it prior to carbonation since that is one of the things that the yeast creates during fermentation. However, its far from properly carbed for the style. I recommend using a priming calculator...like the one on Screwy Brewer's website. It will take your fermentation temps and calculate your residual CO2...what you have in the beer now...and give you the proper amount of sugar to add to reach your target carb level.
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