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Brew-tality

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Posts posted by Brew-tality


  1. Yea guys I used the cylinder scoop from Mr Beer. I used 2 of the large(1 1/4 tsp) scoops for my 1 liter PET bottles. This is not the point though folks. My main worry was that chilling the beer prematurely to stop it form overflowing and then returning it to warm conditioning might have caused some problems with the quality/taste of the beer. I realized that I probably used a little too much sugar when the bottle overflowed when I tried to relieve some pressure. thats why I refrigerated it for a while, to slow the yeast, and stop the overflow. thanks for all the help though guys.


  2. Astrobeerman wrote:

    Chilling and reconditioning (putting them back in the cool area for carbinating and conditioning) doesn't do any harm......yeasties can be woken back up....lol

    Overall I think you over analyzed the situation......with removing pressure.....trust your method of madness....lol

    Haha, thanks astro. I figured I was just overthinking the whole thing. thanks for the reassurance...


  3. they were the standard recipes, but I steeped grains in each and dry hopped them as well. They fermented at right around 66-68 degrees. And I put 2 scoops of sugar into each bottle using the Mr Beer cylinder sugar measure. Also, i use the 1 liter PET bottles. what im mainly wondering is, did the act of chilling the beer, then re-conditioning it do any harm???


  4. Yea i like brewing beer just as much as drinking it. I only have room for 2 lbk's though. Thats all the space the ol' lady was willing to give up, haha. I dont plan on keeping them in constant rotation. Just whenever I have some extra cash to burn, I'll brew some beer. It's fun, much more than I expected it to be. Even with all the waiting, I'm still constantly checking to make sure temps are maintained, bottles arent bursting, and I'm always on here finding new information. I love it...


  5. Got 2 batches in bottles right now. Whispering wheat and Canadian draft. Dry hopped each with 1 oz cascade for one and centennial for the other. Bottled it up on the 25th. 2 days later the bottles were rock solid. I tried to relieve some pressure, and the bottle just sprayed everywhere.

    What I did to remedy the overflowing was put the bottles in the fridge to slow the yeast, then relieved pressure and put back in the cupboard for warm conditioning.

    did I ruin my beer??? I let both batches ferment for 2 weeks and used 4 grams of yeast in each fermenter. Bottle primed same as I did with my first batch. something just seems to have gone wrong...


  6. berryman wrote:

    If This is what you are using, that's what I've been using every since about the second batch I made and have had good luck with it. I haven't done any 1 lt. PET's in a while though. I always over fill it and then tap off the excess to the mark.

    Yea berryman thats what I have. Good to know it works well. I dont wanna overcarb and have bottle bombs. The ol' lady would kill me, haha.


  7. Are you talkin about the blue monn belgian white??? You might wanna go with chance drums idea. Not too sure on it, but its all about experimentation man. Also, I LOVE the belgian white...

    If it turn out anything like that, let me know. I just did the whispering wheat with a basic grain steep and im gonna dry hop with centennial hops, so make sure to comment on your results.


  8. hey guys I just got my second kit that came with one of these cylinder sugar measures. Do these things work alright??? It says 2 scoops in the big cylinder is good for the 1 liter PET bottles. But I added the same amount of sugar to my first batch for bottle priming and had to keep relieving pressure from the bottles to avoid bombs. Just wondering if anybody has good info on this. And just FYI, I dont want to batch prime, so dont bring it up please. I;m just looking for a good solution for bottle priming. If the cylinder measure works alright, then cool. If not, let me know what you do...

    Thanks.


  9. Just finished brewing up 2 batches about an hour ago. I did the HCCD with a grain steep of Carapils, and WWWB with the same steep. So I got about 5 gallons brewing right now. Pitched 4 grams of dry yeast in each. Thanks to FedoraDave for the steeping info. Got it saved in my documents for easy access, as well as his advice on hop boils. What a lifesaver. I'll be sure to post in the first pour sticky when its ready. Guess its time to go update my 2012 brew log...


  10. ok cool. I have 4 packs of the MR B dry yeast. I'll just try pitching 2 packs in each of my 2 kegs and see how that goes. The first batch I made only used 1 packet of yeast and it came out ok. So using 2 packs per batch should improve the beer???

    And P.S. pete rose haircut, I see we both just became "Beer Wranglers" haha. congrats...


  11. Ok guys. my shipment arrived today. How should I store the extra cans of HME and booster that I;m not using? yeast is in the fridge, grains are unopened and still in the box that they came in. Put hops in the freezer. but what about the cansand booster???


  12. pete rose haircut wrote:

    Brew-tality wrote:

    Well crap I wish I would have found this thread before I made my order. I would have snagged some extra yeast as well...

    I wasn't aware of the yeast issue either for my first 2 batches & they turned out fine, I use additional yeast now.


    I'll have to start doing the same pete. I'll just try making starters the day before like cavalrymash suggested.

    Thanks


  13. Well a few days ago I ordered another kit with enough refills to make 8 gallons of beer. I'm excited cuz I'll have 2 kegs finally.

    I have one question though. I just ordered some grains and some hops from northern brewer, along with some hop sacks. I got 1 lb of Breiss Carapils and 1 lb of belgian caravienne, and 2 oz. each of cascade and centennial hops for some dry hopping.

    My question is, for the dry hop do I just throw the hops in the fermenter alone, or do they need to be in a hop sack???

    Thanks in advance...

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