Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

VanceFox

Community Members
  • Content Count

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by VanceFox

  1. Joechianti wrote: Re: Beer Machine Refills: Help me understand this, if you would. The description on the website is not very detailed. For $18 including shipping you get 3 bags and each bag can make an entire LBK batch? I think I can see 3 packs of yeast in the photo, and maybe a sanitizer pack, too. Is one of those bags basically equal to a MB refill kit? What's in each bag? DME, booster, or what? How much does it weigh? Even if you took one bag and added a DME to it, that's a good deal. It looks like a dry equivalent to the hopped malt extract standard recipes from MB without the booster. I may order it just for S&G but I find it odd and annoying that I'll have to call them to do so. It's most likely to prove that I'm old enough to purchase alcohol even though that product is not such... yet.
  2. So I ran across this website looking for other places to grab ingredients and keep total costs low: MoreBeer Free shipping on orders over $59 and they have a section for 11 beers under 50¢ a bottle. Since I already loaded myself through Amazon's 4 for 3 MB refills I bookmarked this site for my next order. Keep in mind these are for 5g batches so you'll have to grab some mason jars for storage of the unused half... unless you have 2 lbks. Figured I'd share the knowledge for those still looking at MB as the only source...
  3. Like he said. If you only have 4g, pitch 4g. It'll make beer. Also, MB isn't the only place where you can get yeast if you don't have a home brew shop near you. Amazon Brewing Yeast
  4. stevecon wrote: Thanks for the lesson on attenuation. I have done my homework on adjunct ratios. In the future I'm going to pitch a packet per can of HME/UME. If that isn't a good ratio please advise. I'd say pitch 6g (3 packs or ~1/2 11.5g pack) for most batches and a full 11.5g pack for any higher alcohol recipe, but that's me. I'm pretty sure it's a lot easier to underpitch than overpitch.
  5. devildude19 wrote: It's on the inside. I noticed it was only on a few of the bottles so it may have been sediment from the last bit I bottled. I tasted one I had in the fridge and it had a black licorice flavor to it. Not real bad but it was there. Other than that the color, clarity, carbonation and overall flavor was OK. I'm kinda assuming they just need more time to condition. The saga continues.... Did you clean your bottles and spigot before bottling? Did you clean the lbk and all utensils before brewing? I don't remember a licorice flavor in the wcpa...
  6. Beerlabelman wrote: Hi Fellas, let me jump in here. What I believe is happening here IMHO - is you are tasting the sweetness of the wort. Now, after 4 weeks, you have beer, but it's lost some sweetness - very young beer. No worries, like my beer brothers here have already stated, give it time. :sombrero: Flavors blend & change over time. Keep aging, keep sampling. Report back with results. :barman: The guys here know everything, & what they don't know they make up. :laugh: I think he tasted after primary fermentation was complete... But yes, I've noticed that the beer does taste different at bottling than after a couple weeks.
  7. APAL wrote: Alright, thanks guys. Maybe I should just dump it. Never dump beer. Unless it's infected.
  8. If that measure is based on their suggested amounts, you might not want to follow it... MB prime suggestion will overcarb the beer. Some might like that, others will not when they're uncontrollably belching. I use the cooper carb drops. One drop per 12oz bottle.
  9. As everyone has said, the wcpa doesn't produce too much visible signs of fermentation. You have to look very carefully and you should see small bubbles rising. The best way to verify is to shine that light on the bottom of the keg and you should see a small white looking layer. That's the trub and is a good indication that you did it right. Cold crash and bottle after 2-3 weeks (2 weeks is ok for that standard recipe since the majority, if not all of it, of the work is complete) and let sit for a minimum of 3 weeks. Saying that I know you'll probably taste one after a week like I did and realize that the beer just doesn't taste right...
  10. I'd pitch 6g of yeast at a minimum... Isn't a blue moon a more malty beer and not so bitter? I'd throw a half pound of dme in the recipe to help balance out those hops.
  11. It'll make beer, but you may not get the flavor you thought you would get with the honey. I did the wcpa standard for the first brew and from that one on I learned two things: 1) Standard recipes don't do it for me as far as flavor. I still buy them but add, at the very least, 1 pound of unhopped malt. 2) Mr Beer needs to change their priming suggestions. Sticking with their suggestion makes beer that will make you belch for a day straight.
  12. Docniel wrote: :blush: Laughing at my self DUH! On a side note, I like to recycle and since we're talking about bottle priming, can you reuse the metal bottle caps that don't twist off? I mean if they aren't deformed. Based on how a bottled is capped... how can you pull a cap without bending it over the crown?
  13. alb wrote: OK thanks, I did as you suggested, using water. You were right, the lid was stuck tight. I could smell the wort as soon as I cracked the crust holding the lid down. Mmmm! That's gonna be good! Just make sure to re-tighten, but not too tight.
  14. alb wrote: I haven't touched it! For all I know it's glued to the floor. I figured the less I mess with it the better. Next time I'll put it on a cookie sheet, I guess. Thanks for the reassurance! Wet a cloth with a light solution of starsan and clean it up around the airlock... You can, and should, crack the lid without opening it just to make sure that the solids aren't creating an air tight lock in your lbk. Move the lbk out of the way a little and clean up the area. If you don't have starsan, use the one step. Or use water...
  15. My last brew did a nice overflow... oh well... I bottled it anyway. If you don't want it... I'm sure plenty of people here will take it.
  16. Also, you don't have to just buy that variety kit. I just purchased that kit, an adipa, witbier, and a wcpa deluxe coupled with a 3.3# can of cooper's amber lme for $81 shipped 2 day. I'll take that any day
  17. Brew-tality wrote: I just got the black wing capper today. Does anyone know which brands of bottles work best with it, besides the glass Mr B bottles??? Anything with a 29mm cap... which is pretty much any pop top bottles you'll find in the 12oz variety.
  18. gophers6 wrote: There's been a number of folks on this board who have had poor results with the Muntun tabs. Never heard anything bad about the Cooper drops. Except you need 1 per 12 oz so there's no size for a 1/2 liter. It'd be tough to cut them in half. What have you heard bad about them? What result is poor? No carbonation or off flavors?
  19. Docniel wrote: VanceFox wrote: I like carb drops. I buy a 60 pack for about $5 from my local. One drop per 12oz bottle. Can't beat it. Oh, and it really speeds up the bottling process. I got some yesterday from a co-worker of mine whose transferring to Japan and off loading stuff, how much would the 500 ml need (also got for free), 1 1/2 drops?? I just put one into each bottle this morning, think that will work? You'll be undercarbed. But... those drops are great for the 12oz bottles. For anything different I'd go with Muntun's carb tabs. Cutting those drops will never be consistent.
  20. manosteel9423 wrote: That sounds like alot of work, Vance! Isn't it easier to just open the can and pour it in? ;p Just placed an order here on MB as well...20% coupon code made it VERY worthwhile to stock up on some stuff!! Yeah, it is... But the extra work helps out the in end with lower costs per case. I have the same code from my registration. Expect your post to be removed though, or at least edited. They don't like people advertising coupon codes on their forums.
  21. manosteel9423 wrote: Since we're giving away shopping secrets...a site called everythingbutwine.com offers lots of MB stuff (including individual cans of UME!) and they have free shipping on orders over $25. Great for those smaller orders. Great place, I just don't like the high cost of a small can of lme. I can get a 3.3# can for slightly less then 2x the cost of getting the MB 1.2# lme and put the remainder in mason jars for later use.
  22. I personally would wait another week to allow the yeast to finish if you still have "floaties"... and then cold crash for 2 days to knock a lot of the cloudiness out of suspension before bottling. I have that lager on deck for the next brew. Do you keep the lbk in a consistent (decent) temperature and dark environment?
  23. Go to your local home brew shop and purchase a pound (if you can) or a can of light liquid malt extract (lme) and a package of SAFALE US-05 yeast and a big bottle of StarSan. Use the StarSan to sanitize all your tools and the little keg. Mix the booster in the water and then the can of wcpa and a pound of the lme. Use this as your wort. Follow all directions but instead of using the Mr Beer yeast, put it in the fridge and use 6 grams (~ 1/2 package) of the US-05 yeast. I wish I did this as my first brew. EDIT: Oh, and get a small funnel to prime your bottles with sugar or get a bag of carb drops.
  24. Just don't go and check out Amazon's MB selection... You'll find a little paragraph that says buy 3 get one free and then you're screwed... You'll buy 4, even if you have enough ingredients for your next 2 batches already on the shelf... Oh, and if you need lme you can get cooper's lme (light/dark/amber/wheat) for only like $13 shipped 2 day if you get the free month of "prime"... Oh and don't forget if you want to make it easier to bottle those 12oz things you can get 60 carb drops for $6 shipped 2 day under that prime too... Yeah, I'm screwed.
  25. I just pitched 3 packs of MB yeast into a modified blonde ale. Fermentation took off around 4 hours... I don't mind the MB yeast but I'll never use just one package again. The standard wcpa came out ok (although I overcarbed thanks to MB's suggested prime) but fermentation took a long time to kick start. The US-05 took 1 hour, although I pitched the full 11.5g into a fully custom pilsner recipe. My .02 from a beginner? I use it because it's there.
×
×
  • Create New...