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reyrey1332

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About reyrey1332

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  1. that's what I thought...and it's actually only 2 gallon batches...so even less than half the normal 5 gallon. I just don't want to do a step that was completely unnecessary...now if it would make a substantial difference in the taste of my beer, I would do it. But, it seems like starters are mainly for higher OG beers and 5 gallon batches or more...
  2. Hey guys, Need some advice...I'm just now getting into using liquid yeast. I still only brew 2 gallon batches because I simply don't have the space or equipment to go 5 gallon yet. I even use the Mr. Beer kegs from time to time, even though I have converted to all Northern Brewer ingredients. My liquid yeast is the Wyeast smack packs...it says it contains 100 billion yeast cells. It's my understanding the ballpark avg of yeast count for a 5 gallon batch is around 200 billion yeast cells, and that is why most brewers make a yeast starter when using liquid yeast... My question, is if I only brew 2 gallon batches...do I even need to make a starter??? Will the Wyeast Smack packs alone work for a 2 gallon batch of beer???? Jeff
  3. a gallon of spring water you buy at the store is like .78 cents That is worth it to me to know your water isn't going to be the reason for off flavors.
  4. Fair enough, but I would think if you made those same exact killer beers with Spring Water...it would probably be mind blowing beers.
  5. I only cold crash if I use fruit. Basically just gauge how cloudy your beer is after fermentation. If it's too cloudy for your taste then cold crash for 3 days before bottling. If it's clear enough, than don't.
  6. I just cringe when anyone says they use tap water to brew...ugh. I don't care how good you think your tap water is, it still is a bad idea. Beer is over 85% water. That is the main ingredient. Use high quality Spring water. Tap water, you never know what the hell is in it...
  7. nope the sweetness is due to fermentation not being completed. The instructions actually tell you it should taste like flat beer but not sweet at all. If its still sweet, you keep in in the keg for a few more days.
  8. MB will always stick to the minimum times...it is a marketing gimmick. They will sell more units if their boxes say you can have beer in as little as 4 weeks...when, in reality it takes a min of 6 weeks...but we all know 8-10 weeks is even better for great beer. But, who would want to buy it if it said on the box you had to wait that long??? It's all marketing...
  9. You can take the one in the fridge out and let it warm back up in the closet...it won't hurt it. The yeast goes to sleep when you put it in the fridge, but once it warms back up the yeast wakes up and starts working again. That's the purpose of warm conditioning, to keep the yeast working in your beer to improve taste and flavor...once you throw it in the fridge you put them to sleep.
  10. You also say you have 6 bottles carbonating and 1 conditioning??? That 1 is where? In the fridge? Carbonating and warm conditioning go hand in hand and is basically different parts of the same process. I feel the terms carbonating and warm condition just confuses new brewers. I wish Mr. beer would just state to bottle for 4 weeks at room temps. That would avoid confusion. You hear about the 2/2/2 rule? That's 2 weeks fermenting, 2 weeks carbonating, and 2 weeks conditioning....it should be called the 2/4 rule. 2 weeks fermenting, and 4 weeks in the bottle at room temp. Just bottle them up and leave them alone for a min of 4 weeks. If you can even go longer, your beer will only taste better.
  11. After only 5 days in the bottle you gave it no time to carbonate. It takes 2 weeks to carbonate, sometimes 3. If you are using the PET bottles you will know when they are rock hard. But, just to be safe keep them in the bottle for a minimum of 4 weeks...and you want to keep them at a steady room temperature, preferrably the temp you fermented at. But, this is also where your temp fluctuations pose a problem. You need to keep it warm enough to keep the yeast working...
  12. You have a lot of issues here. For one, the fluctuation in fermenting temps is bad. You want to keep the fermenting temps within the range acceptable to the type of yeast you are using. But, most important of all is to keep the temps as stable as possible to avoid stressing the yeast. A fluctuation of 50-80 is way too much!!! Second, you simply have no patience. If you follow the Mr. B instructions to a T, you will have shitty beer. It will be drinkable, but it will taste like shit. At the minimum it takes 6 weeks to produce great beer with Mr. Beer.
  13. It's going to taste better too!
  14. 1 lb of DME replaces 1 bag of Mr. Beer booster or equals one can of UME. You want to mix DME in warm water and bring it to boil...do not add DME to already boiling water. You need to bring the DME past boiling but be very careful for spill over...you will have to remove from heat or keep stirring to avoid this
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