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piscator

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  1. This is an interesting reply. If my fermentation is three weeks in primary, and then we go direct to bottle, perhaps the dry hops should go into the fermentor near the end, say day 15? What I do notice is the loss of the Simcoe aroma compared to the brew pub product. Same taste, but less piney aroma.
  2. Now that I have a 2gal recipe that's really super, I want to make it in 4gal batches. The fermenter and boil kettle are no problem, but hopping might be. Hop utilization is a something I'm not so clear on. IE, would hopping be relative to the volume of water? If 1oz of a particular hop is good for 2gal of water, do I just double of the hops for 4 gals of water during the boil? And what about dry-hopping? Double that also? This is time thing. No extra time to make twice the beer. That's the goal anyway.
  3. As in theory of? Thankfully not. Haven't posted since January, but still making beer. As I completed more partial grain recipes, the pipeline of extract brews became less and less desirable. When I was doing extracts, I would rate them on the scale of 1-10 with ten being something I really liked. After a half a dozen or so partial grains, even the favorites had slipped down, relatively speaking, to where I wouldn't bother making them again. There's a local brew pub that shares recipe information, but for 600 - 1300 gallon batches. Up to you to work it out for 2gal or 5 gal. One of those has been a real success for me, because I nailed it in a 2gal batch. 1lb Munich crushed 1lb 60L crushed 3lb Light DME Steep the grains 60min @ 160F, 3.5gal of water. Crank up heat, started adding DME right away Bring to boil, get past hot-break (not much problem 2-3min) Toss in 1oz German Magnum, start timer counting from 60min. At 30min, toss in 1oz Cascade. At 10min, toss in 1oz Simcoe Off heat and chill at 0min to 80F rapidly as possible. Pluck out expended hop bags and discard. Pour kettle contents into fermenter, bring level up to "Q" if necessary. Add 1oz Simcoe and Cascade in hop-bags for dry-hopping. Pitch Wyeast 1056 when temp hits 78F, aerate. Second day, have a cookie tray under fermenter. Sometimes needed, sometimes not. 21 days in fermenter, prime 1tsp cane sugar per 16oz bottle. 40 days at 60F for conditioning. OMG!!!
  4. Took FIVE weeks to carbonate...guess that means moving that first sample date back into March. Probably one yeast cell per bottle.
  5. I do not trust any "cloud" apps. Internet goes down, you twiddle your thumbs. Excel spreadsheet on my "Uber-desktop" with a nice big 32" flatscreen monitor. Qbrew as a tool, and a record, but it won't display everything I've ever done, like Excel.
  6. I ran this on Screwy and found I was short just about everywhere. The target ABV is 6.5% with an IBU of 70. To get there, it looks like I need more DME and more steeping grains than 4.0lb and .5lb. If I up the DME to 6.0lb and the two steeping grains to 1.0lb each, it comes very close.
  7. "mashani" post=315021 said:Pre-heat your steep water, add the grains in the bag, and immediately put it in the oven. Leave it there for 60 minutes. (no need to steep 30/leave it another 60). Edit/Note: If you were mashing a lot more grain then the temps matter more if you want it to be more or less fermentable, but for this purpose, just get your water to 157-160ish, turn it off, add the grains, put it in your oven and you will be golden. Got it and thanks again.
  8. Yep, it is amber from the tap. I don't know why they call it an IPA. Pretty darn tasty, and I'm more of a malt guy. But this stuff is good. They make it in 300 gallon and 1000 gallon batches, so while I was able to get the ingredients list...volumes were somewhat hard to figure.
  9. This is the same kit I've just started using. It's a 2.5 gallon (water) steep and boil, so a 4 gallon brew kettle works fine. A nice little digital meat thermometer by Oneida (BBB) for $20 helps a lot. I poured my batch into to LBK's chilled them down on ice and pitched the Nottingham rehydrated yeast after spitting that in two also. I filled each LBK with 1.0 gallon of ice water and chilled the word down to 160F before the pour. Result in the LBK was 100F, which then I chilled down with ice to 75F before pitching. This thread shows the process: http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/8-new-brewers-and-faqs/309522-milk-stout-partial
  10. Thanks. A half pound each of Munich and 60L in a bag. And to be sure I've got it right, steep that alone in 2.5 gallons of water for 30 minutes and then move the kettle to the preheated and turned-off oven for sixty more minutes. Bring it out, back on the stove, drain and remove the bag, and then bring up to boil, flame off and add in the DME using Frozen's method and when it's all dissolved and dark, flame back on, up to temp and start my hop boil. That sounds like a plan!
  11. "Beer-lord" post=314646 said:Are you sure your hydrometer is calibrated correctly? If you use plan tap water at about 68 degrees, it should read 0. In answer to your question, a 1.014 OG is not good but I'm suspecting something else is wrong if you've had the same problem with other beers. 1.014 would likely be the final gravity of a beer that starts at 1.072. Or at least somewhere between 1.014 and 1.020. Got the same brew conditioning now. Leaned on it a little with a pound of Munton's Amber DME and 1.25 cups of honey (to empty the bottle). OG was 1.074 and FG was 1.012. She be tall. 15 days in the bottles and ready around the end of February.
  12. Walked into Brass and Bullets, our local powder, shot and reloading store and by gosh! They've doubled the floor space and the other half is entirely filled with beer making supplies. Can't think of a better combination that that.
  13. I'd like to have a try at duplicating this without going to an AG process. I can do steeps and hop boils for 5 gallon recipes, so whatever I try must be limited in this manner. To duplicate this craft beer, I need to emulate 1. 80% 2-row pale 2. 10% Munich 3. 10% Crystal 60 I've got the hops boil times figured out with Magnum, Cascade, and Simcoe at 60, 30, and 10, and then Cascade and Simcoe again dry-hopped. The yeast is Wyeast 1056. So the main question is how to get the malts in with extracts or steeping. Maybe 4lb of Pale DME or Extract, then steep something? Any suggestions would be most welcome.
  14. "LouieMacGoo" post=314060 said:This recipe may be dead for Mr. Beer but there is still a way to brew it. If anyone is interested. :evil: Pay attention to the "ICON" folks.... The BRA has been reincarnated in a howling new can.
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