Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

piscator

Community Members
  • Content Count

    208
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by piscator

  1. This is an interesting reply. If my fermentation is three weeks in primary, and then we go direct to bottle, perhaps the dry hops should go into the fermentor near the end, say day 15? What I do notice is the loss of the Simcoe aroma compared to the brew pub product. Same taste, but less piney aroma.
  2. Now that I have a 2gal recipe that's really super, I want to make it in 4gal batches. The fermenter and boil kettle are no problem, but hopping might be. Hop utilization is a something I'm not so clear on. IE, would hopping be relative to the volume of water? If 1oz of a particular hop is good for 2gal of water, do I just double of the hops for 4 gals of water during the boil? And what about dry-hopping? Double that also? This is time thing. No extra time to make twice the beer. That's the goal anyway.
  3. As in theory of? Thankfully not. Haven't posted since January, but still making beer. As I completed more partial grain recipes, the pipeline of extract brews became less and less desirable. When I was doing extracts, I would rate them on the scale of 1-10 with ten being something I really liked. After a half a dozen or so partial grains, even the favorites had slipped down, relatively speaking, to where I wouldn't bother making them again. There's a local brew pub that shares recipe information, but for 600 - 1300 gallon batches. Up to you to work it out for 2gal or 5 gal. One of those has been a real success for me, because I nailed it in a 2gal batch. 1lb Munich crushed 1lb 60L crushed 3lb Light DME Steep the grains 60min @ 160F, 3.5gal of water. Crank up heat, started adding DME right away Bring to boil, get past hot-break (not much problem 2-3min) Toss in 1oz German Magnum, start timer counting from 60min. At 30min, toss in 1oz Cascade. At 10min, toss in 1oz Simcoe Off heat and chill at 0min to 80F rapidly as possible. Pluck out expended hop bags and discard. Pour kettle contents into fermenter, bring level up to "Q" if necessary. Add 1oz Simcoe and Cascade in hop-bags for dry-hopping. Pitch Wyeast 1056 when temp hits 78F, aerate. Second day, have a cookie tray under fermenter. Sometimes needed, sometimes not. 21 days in fermenter, prime 1tsp cane sugar per 16oz bottle. 40 days at 60F for conditioning. OMG!!!
  4. Took FIVE weeks to carbonate...guess that means moving that first sample date back into March. Probably one yeast cell per bottle.
  5. I do not trust any "cloud" apps. Internet goes down, you twiddle your thumbs. Excel spreadsheet on my "Uber-desktop" with a nice big 32" flatscreen monitor. Qbrew as a tool, and a record, but it won't display everything I've ever done, like Excel.
  6. I ran this on Screwy and found I was short just about everywhere. The target ABV is 6.5% with an IBU of 70. To get there, it looks like I need more DME and more steeping grains than 4.0lb and .5lb. If I up the DME to 6.0lb and the two steeping grains to 1.0lb each, it comes very close.
  7. "mashani" post=315021 said:Pre-heat your steep water, add the grains in the bag, and immediately put it in the oven. Leave it there for 60 minutes. (no need to steep 30/leave it another 60). Edit/Note: If you were mashing a lot more grain then the temps matter more if you want it to be more or less fermentable, but for this purpose, just get your water to 157-160ish, turn it off, add the grains, put it in your oven and you will be golden. Got it and thanks again.
  8. Yep, it is amber from the tap. I don't know why they call it an IPA. Pretty darn tasty, and I'm more of a malt guy. But this stuff is good. They make it in 300 gallon and 1000 gallon batches, so while I was able to get the ingredients list...volumes were somewhat hard to figure.
  9. This is the same kit I've just started using. It's a 2.5 gallon (water) steep and boil, so a 4 gallon brew kettle works fine. A nice little digital meat thermometer by Oneida (BBB) for $20 helps a lot. I poured my batch into to LBK's chilled them down on ice and pitched the Nottingham rehydrated yeast after spitting that in two also. I filled each LBK with 1.0 gallon of ice water and chilled the word down to 160F before the pour. Result in the LBK was 100F, which then I chilled down with ice to 75F before pitching. This thread shows the process: http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/8-new-brewers-and-faqs/309522-milk-stout-partial
  10. Thanks. A half pound each of Munich and 60L in a bag. And to be sure I've got it right, steep that alone in 2.5 gallons of water for 30 minutes and then move the kettle to the preheated and turned-off oven for sixty more minutes. Bring it out, back on the stove, drain and remove the bag, and then bring up to boil, flame off and add in the DME using Frozen's method and when it's all dissolved and dark, flame back on, up to temp and start my hop boil. That sounds like a plan!
  11. "Beer-lord" post=314646 said:Are you sure your hydrometer is calibrated correctly? If you use plan tap water at about 68 degrees, it should read 0. In answer to your question, a 1.014 OG is not good but I'm suspecting something else is wrong if you've had the same problem with other beers. 1.014 would likely be the final gravity of a beer that starts at 1.072. Or at least somewhere between 1.014 and 1.020. Got the same brew conditioning now. Leaned on it a little with a pound of Munton's Amber DME and 1.25 cups of honey (to empty the bottle). OG was 1.074 and FG was 1.012. She be tall. 15 days in the bottles and ready around the end of February.
  12. Walked into Brass and Bullets, our local powder, shot and reloading store and by gosh! They've doubled the floor space and the other half is entirely filled with beer making supplies. Can't think of a better combination that that.
  13. I'd like to have a try at duplicating this without going to an AG process. I can do steeps and hop boils for 5 gallon recipes, so whatever I try must be limited in this manner. To duplicate this craft beer, I need to emulate 1. 80% 2-row pale 2. 10% Munich 3. 10% Crystal 60 I've got the hops boil times figured out with Magnum, Cascade, and Simcoe at 60, 30, and 10, and then Cascade and Simcoe again dry-hopped. The yeast is Wyeast 1056. So the main question is how to get the malts in with extracts or steeping. Maybe 4lb of Pale DME or Extract, then steep something? Any suggestions would be most welcome.
  14. "LouieMacGoo" post=314060 said:This recipe may be dead for Mr. Beer but there is still a way to brew it. If anyone is interested. :evil: Pay attention to the "ICON" folks.... The BRA has been reincarnated in a howling new can.
  15. I'm wondering...hot break only refers to adding DME? Not LME or other extracts? Why so...if so? Didn't DME begin as LME spray-dried into powder? Frozen....I really like that hint. Good one.
  16. FOR 2013 7.5 gallons as of 3 January In the Kegs: #1 Imperial Milk Stout (5 gallons) 13 days to go #2 Kitchen Sink Dark Lager 20 days to go Next up: Tamarack's Hat Trick IPA (five gallons) FOR 2012 90 gallons: as of 31 Dec. Bottled: #1 WCPA (the brew that started it all) on 1/9/2012 (gone!) #2 Sticky Wicket Stout 1/27/2012 (gone!) #3 Bewitched Red 2/11/2012 (gone!) #4 Defib Dopplebock 2/12/2012 (2 bottles left) #5 Scottish Wee Heavy 2/23/2012 (gone) #6 WCPA #2 2/25/2012 (gone!) #7 Pumpkin Porter 3/7/2012 (dumped down the drain 5/14) #8 High-Country Huckleberry Draft 3/16/2012 (gone) #9 English Nut Brown Ale 3/16/2012 (gone) #10 Chocolate-covered cherries 3/28/2012 (gone) #11 Pilothouse Pilsner 3/30/2012 (gone) #12 Creamy Oatmeal Stout 4/6/2012 (gone) #13 Vienna Vanilla Cream Ale 4/17/2012 (gone) #14 Two batches of Scottish Wee Heavy (gone) #15 Golden Harp Ale 5/18/2012 (gone) #16 West Coast Pale extra 5/20/2012 (gone) #17 Dark Forest Stout 9/8/2012 (2 left) #18 Scottish Wee Heavy 9/10/2012 (14 left) #19 Sticky Wicket Stout 9/10/2012 (6 left) #20 English Ale (AA with Maris Potter UME)9/22/2012 (gone!) #21 Chocolate Porter 9/27/2012 (2 left) #22 Scottish Wee Heavy 9/29/2012 (16 left) #23 Scottish Wee Heavy (modified) 10/13/2012 (14 left) #24 Diablo IPA Deluxe 10/22/2012 (10 left) #25 Northern Pale Ale deluxe 10/22/2012 (10 left) #26 Bewitched Amber Ale deluxe 10/22/2012 (10 left) #27 West Coast Pale Ale (double batch) 10/22/2012 (30 left) #28 #52 Linebacker Doppelbock 11/23/2012 7.9% abv (16 left) #29 English Strong Ale 12/1/2012 6.7% abv (16 left) #30 King's Nectar 12/8/2012 10.3% abv (16 left) #31 Snow Drift Dark Lager 12/14/2012 4.4% abv (16 left) #32 Whitehouse Honey Amber 12/21/2012 7.9% abv (16 left) #33 Scottish Wee Heavy 12/31/2012 6.7% abv (16 left)
  17. "Jason_1977" post=313535 said:I just want to make crystal clear I understand. I'm new to brewing, new tothe lingo, etc, my 1st batch is brewing now & will reach the 2wk point in the LBK. It's already got little bubbles rising from the bottom......Made me excited.... ~ANYWAY 3 wks in LBK Fermenting 2 wks in Bottle room temp. 2 wks in the fridge? To condition? Or are people saying conditioning is simply another 2 wks in the bottle BEFORE the fridge.......I've been reading the threads soaking up as much as I can, this keeps throwing me off because I have read the directions over & over & now I'm on this forum getting instructions contrary to what the manufacturer says to do. That's why I ask & am making sure....lol That terminology used to get me also. Carbonating and conditioning...same-same. One comes before the other but they are done at the same temp, whether it be room temp or cellar temp, like me. Cellar temp is 10 degrees cooler so it takes longer. Put them in the fridge and everything stops. Of course, you can take it out again and continue, but nothing happens at 40F. For me, its 3-4 weeks in the fermenter, and then a minumum of 40 days in the cellar. 60 is better. [attachment=10235]Pipeline.jpg[/attachment]
  18. The package says "no-rinse" so I think you'll be fine.
  19. And with a really tall beer like King's Nectar, the ABV builds past 10% and the yeast takes much longer to finish it off. I went 28 days on that one and was rewarded with an FG of 1.008 (from 1.088). And she's carbing oh-so-slowly.
  20. Thanks all. What I appreciate most here is the wealth of experience available. Doing the PM leads to the inevitable conclusion that far more variation is possible because of the ability to select any from of extract, steeping grain, and/or hops. This particular brew smelled great, prompting my wife to come by, see the thermometer and ask, are you making some form of candy? Oh, yeah!!!!
  21. As noted in another post, a kit I purchased required more equipment (bigger brew kettle and thermometer) and a steeping process followed by a hop boil. Like going halfway to an all-grain solution. Took three hours from start to finish. 30 minute steep, 60 minute boil The thermometer I picked up was an Oneida digital for $20 from BBB. What a neat tool. Has a timer, so you can hit "go" when the steep and the boil reach their proper temp levels. Here's the pics. Theboil.jpg[/attachment] When the timer hit 50 minutes, in went the Millenium bittering hops. [attachment=10120]Fifty-threeminutestogo.jpg[/attachment] At this point, I opened the package of Nottingham yeast and hydrated it in 4oz of boiled and cooled water. When the timer wound down to 10 minutes, in went the Williamette aroma hops. I had to modify my plan for pouring the wort. No way was I going to be able to control five gallons of hot wort suspended over a 2.35 gallon LBK. Instead of adding water and yeast in the brew kettle, I just added enough ice to bring down the temp from boil to 160F in about two minutes. Then I filled each LBK with one gallon of ice water. Adding in the wort brought the temp in the LBK up to 100F and I was all out of ice. However, it's winter...in Montana...and snow is in abundant supply. Got both jugs cooled to 75F. Took the OG of 1.068. Split the hydrated yeast in two (sanitized quarter-cup measure) and dumped it in. Twelve hours later, those kegs were foaming up to beat the band. [attachment=10122]Unlimitedsnow.jpg[/attachment]
  22. Thanks for all the notes here, Gents. This came out super-charged with the yeast slamming into action. Both kegs erupted within twelve hours and I lost a little bit of wort, but when things settled down, the wort line was right ON the money level-wise. Started a new post with pictures >>>>> Milk Stout Partial.
  23. Okay, I was perusing the shelf at the LHBS and a Brewers Best Milk Stout caught my eye. Opened the box, saw a couple of cans and said, Aha! I can do this one. Got it home and looked more carefully. Uh-oh, bigger pot need cuz I need to heat 2.5 gallons. And uh-oh, gotta control the temps to keep from leaching tannins from the bag of grains I failed to notice at the bottom of the box. And now a 60 minute boil with pitching bittering and aroma hops at various times. And how the heck am I going to divide this finished wort into two 2.35 gallon fermentors and pitch the one package of yeast accurately? Got the last figured out. I'll mark the inside of my new ($50) 16 quart stainless kettle at the 4.0 gallon mark. Do my boil with 2.5 gallons as directed and then add in ice-water at the end to the 4.0 gal mark, wait until I get her down to less than 75F with the new digital thermometer ($20), pitch the yeast in the big pot, stir well and then pour equally into my two prepped LBK's, while leaving whatever sludge that's in there behind, and then top off the LBK's to the normal 2.35 mark with cold water. The ice water comes from the same tap line as my un-softened cold water tap but is at -10F. Ice soaks up 144x the BTUs of cold water, so I probably wont need all that much ice. But what exactly is this process called. Steeping? Partial Grain?
  24. I figured an FG of 1.008 at the meniscus. Screwy tool says 10.3. We'll see if it carbonates. If so, there must be some yeast alive.
×
×
  • Create New...