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OikoEco

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Everything posted by OikoEco

  1. "asnider" post=377461 said: "OikoEco" post=377457 said:Curiosity got the best of me and I sampled one at 2.5 weeks in the bottle. Since this essentially a wheat beer (albeit a bit of a unique one), that's probably not a problem. Wheats usually condition out quicker, don't they? Yeah, but I was a little worried about the high OG (and ABV) and the possible effect it may have on conditioning time. In general, though, you are right - a low gravity wheat should be drinkable in about 2 weeks (IMHO, anyways). :-)
  2. Curiosity got the best of me and I sampled one at 2.5 weeks in the bottle. Carbonation was good - had about an inch of head in the glass which disappeared after about 2 or 3 minutes (I helped by drinking it). It was very clear....probably the clearest batch I've ever made. That's ok by me, I don't care too much about clarity anyways. The taste was surprisingly very good. I was expecting decent to good, but this was very good. Definitely definitely definitely NOT an IPA by any means (not sure what MrB was thinking on that one), but it is a very good Belgian-style (hybrid?) beer. I could pick up the citrus very well, and there was a very faint fruity/bubble gum-like undertone to it. I dry hopped cascades but I couldn't detect a hop presence at all. I expect it to get a little better in the next couple of weeks, but I think I can bet on it not having much hop presence at all. Not as expected, but overall I'm pleased with it.
  3. "asnider" post=374379 said: "rippsnorter" post=374316 said:Tried my first one at 9 days in the bottle last night (because im impatient). I hope the others are better. It was sweet, almost syrupy, and not well carbed, although i expected the light carbonation because i only added half of the priming sugar. Maybe the yeast hadnt finished eatng the sugar. We'll see in 3 weeks 9 days is pretty early. Hopefully it'll condition out in a few more weeks and taste much better. This one may need to condition longer than recommended. I noted a general sweetness in my batch when I bottled it last weekend. I'm pretty sure the sweetness was primarily from the yeast and lemon and not from the malt. I'll try one in 2 more weeks but it may need to condition a minimum of 5-6 weeks.
  4. Looks good, Kealia! I'll be popping one open in about 3 weeks!
  5. 5/17 : Tonight was bottling night, after 3 weeks in the LBK. My FG came in under 1.015 for an estimated ABV of 6.5%, which I think was exactly what MrB advertised. I'll take it. I pitched 2 packs of yeast (22 g) in a double batch (4.5 gallons). I didn't do any tweaking other than dry hopping 1 oz cascades. My fermenting temps were consistent in the low 70s. I got about 40 12oz bottles, except one slightly truby bottle that I decided to drink on the spot just to see if it was drinkable. Yes, yes it is drinkable. It's actually quite good. Do you like lemon/citrus? Get ready for it. While this is good, it is no way an IPA. Even with the dry hop I struggled to detect any hop flavoring and aroma. The lemon peels really took over this brew. I'm not complaining - it's interesting - but not an IPA. Granted, this initial review was conducted on an immature trub sample so it may not be representative of the finished batch. Still, I think I'm gonna like this one. [img size=500]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/null_zps7c4bfd8b.jpg [img size=500]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/null_zpsc40e3995.jpg
  6. I just took a gravity reading last night. Sitting right at 1.020 at 1.5 weeks into fermentation. Gonna let it go another 1.5 weeks in the fermenter and hopefully it'll drop a few more points.
  7. I have BrewPal on my phone where I can enter and store all of my recipes. It estimates OG and FG based on ingredients and I can even enter in and save my observed actual OG and FG hydrometer measurements. I know some guys like to keep it old school and work with hard copy notebooks, but I've found this electronic record keeping invaluable. The only 3 things that I have with me 100% of the time are my wallet, cell phone, and wedding ring.
  8. Yup, I remain optimistic here. Whatever we want to call in the end is fine with me as long as it tastes good.
  9. Between the hop stand and a recent dry hop addition, I've added a whole ounce of Cascade hops to my double batch (2 cans HME = 4.5 gallons). It needed it. I dry hopped 0.5 oz cascades the other day and when I lifted the lid of the fermenter I could sense the other 0.5 oz I had in there but it was still lacking in hop presence. Hoping this latest dry hop addition helps out. Got another 12 days til bottling day.
  10. Awesome! Love the brew closet! That is impressive! Also like the organization. Brewing forces us to be more organized (or at least think about being organized).
  11. Looks great! I take it that, with all the elbow joints, it passed its leak test with a 100%. Whatever works! Materials in my area are pretty expensive so I shelled out $50 and bought my immersion chiller online. They really make a difference!
  12. What do you mean by "large"? Volume or ABV? Volume = most folks typically don't go higher than 2.5 gallons. ABV = the sky may be the limit. I've heard of folks getting close to 10% ABV from LBK-sized batches. Of course, there are some 'special considerations' that need to be made for those higher ABV brews.
  13. "whistlepig" post=367869 said:what is this dry hop about? I bottled mine - straight up no additions - yesterday. After just over three weeks in the LBK, the sample seemed pretty mellow in terms of hoppiness. I think it will be good, IIRC my final gravity was 1.03ish. Looked a little hazy, guess I kind of expected with a white beer. guess... Dry hopping involves adding hops to the fermenter or keg after fermentation has begun. It's a great way to boost hoppy aroma, but it doesn't add any bitterness to the beer. For best results, dry hopping is typically done after the peak in fermentation (after 7 days in the fermenter, for example). Most of us just throw the pellet hops in commando style (no hop sack). I always try to keep some cascade hops on hand just for that purpose. Anywhere between 0.25 and 0.5 ounces is typically used to dry hop an LBK-sized batch. :chug: Cheers!
  14. "manosteel9423" post=367225 said:Just a question to those who have already brewed this...I have two cans that I plan to brew in the next couple of days. I had planned one straight up and one with a dry hop (probably cascade but I haven't decided yet). My question is have people been steeping Carapils or something similar with this HME? Can't decide whether I should or not. With the addition of the spices (in bag or commando), it is definitely lacking in hop aroma at the time the yeast is pitched, IMO anyway. It still smells great, but the citrusy-lemony aroma is overpowering any hop presence. I don't think you would go wrong with a Cascade dry hop. I did a double batch (4.5 gallons) and I added 0.5 oz cascade at the time the yeast was pitched, and I'll add another 0.5 oz cascade dry hopped at or around day 10 of fermentation. As far as steeping carapils goes, that may be my only regret of not doing these as separate batches. I did not do a carapil steep but I'm still several weeks away from telling if my decision was a good one. Time will tell.
  15. I've been bottle harvesting WY3068 from my latest hefe. After pouring out 95% of the beer, I save the bottom 5% and layer of yeast and pour that off in a glass vial. After a day or so of settling in the fridge, I decant the vial and do it all again to build up the yeast in the vial. The photo below is one vial of WY3068 from about 4 or 5 bottles of beer that I made. I like this process because it is less truby (I still harvest from the fermenter too). I've now got quite the collection of harvested WY3068. [img size=500]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/HomeBrew/1210E5E7-9616-448A-8AE4-75292A94E305-5732-000008D6DC0C6FF5_zpsb8c62929.jpg Bottle harvested WY3068. The amount in the vial is from about 4-5 bottles of beer.
  16. I had a lot of activity within the first 6 hours in the fermenter. But now, a little over 24 hours later, the air lock is dead. I ain't scurred - I trust this yeast. The whole basement smells like fresh citrusy beer being made. I like it. The wife doesn't (see below). [img size=500]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/8ec64b75-04f9-438a-9a0c-10ee2b6bb9bc_zpse93cc30f.jpg SWMBO note on the fridge. I've been banned from brewing in the kitchen. I've been seeing a lot of folks reporting their FG around 1.020. If my experience is similar, I should get an ABV around 5.9%. Cheers!
  17. Finally. Got. Mine. Fermenting. I did things a little different. I made a double batch of about 4.5 gallons in my 5 gallon fermenter. Added 0.5 oz of cascade with the HME to the fermenter. Pitched 2 packets of T-58. Probably a little overkill but oh well. Smelled great. OG came in right at 1.065. Only took 5 hours before I noticed some fierce activity in the air lock!
  18. In those rare circumstances in which I think one of my brews needs a fancy label, I resort to GIMP to do all my photo editing and graphics. It's a pretty easy to use and free software. Like others, just print on regular paper (laser printer preferred) and apply as you wish. I use a laser printer and milk. Milk works great. But I'm pretty lazy so I only label about one out of every 5 batches or so. The rest just get a sticker on the cap. [img size=400]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/HomeBrew/BeerLabel_ASPHINCTERSAYSWHAT_zpsb7da4d2d.jpg [img size=400]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/HomeBrew/6EFBCAAB-58EA-4D20-8006-E1820A785F6B-1676-0000005FE62901A7_zpsc4c70a59.jpg [img size=400]http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/s478/oikoeco/HomeBrew/BE724293-2B8F-4704-8AD7-C1E1C15C4FE4-10359-00000485BFD5B7A7_zpse6127350.jpg
  19. Wow. I missed my chance to brew this past weekend. Hopefully I'll get mine fermenting this weekend.
  20. [img size=300]http://blog.tuxforge.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/yum.jpg
  21. "m3n00b" post=362068 said: "OikoEco" post=362042 said:When I have room in my pipeline, I brew about once a month, alternating between LBK-sized and 5 gallon batches. One month I'll do an LBK-sized batch, the next month I'll do a 5 gallon batch. I usually always "tweak" my brews anyways so I find that there's really no difference in the amount of time it takes me to brew an LBK-sized batch from a 5 gallon batch. I'll probably be brewing the white IPA seasonal this weekend. I've got 2 cans of it sitting on my shelf and I'm contemplating throwing both into my 5 gallon fermenter to brew them both at the same time as a 5 gallon batch (realizing that I may compromise ABV a little bit). It'll probably be a game time decision. You'll compromise flavor as well. Why not brew a 4.5gal batch? Yeah, if I do this it'll be slightly less than a full 5 gallon batch. Not sure. I may hang on to the second can in case I want to tweak it a little bit.
  22. When I have room in my pipeline, I brew about once a month, alternating between LBK-sized and 5 gallon batches. One month I'll do an LBK-sized batch, the next month I'll do a 5 gallon batch. I usually always "tweak" my brews anyways so I find that there's really no difference in the amount of time it takes me to brew an LBK-sized batch from a 5 gallon batch. I'll probably be brewing the white IPA seasonal this weekend. I've got 2 cans of it sitting on my shelf and I'm contemplating throwing both into my 5 gallon fermenter to brew them both at the same time as a 5 gallon batch (realizing that I may compromise ABV a little bit). It'll probably be a game time decision.
  23. "JohnSand" post=361628 said:Oh, head or not, it got drunk! LOL
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