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azmark

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Everything posted by azmark

  1. I brewed one of my first batches the Steel Jan way! It came out great! If you thought a Mr Beer kit was quick, this speeds it up even more.
  2. thump one of the bottles of water, you might see it freeze before your eyes.
  3. Fun times with no wort bittering..... http://www.homebrewtalk.com/bittering-hops-in-15-minutes.html
  4. Aroma, and maybe 15% of the bitterness? Some even say the "having to boil hops with wort" is a myth. Boil up some hop tea, and taste, my guess is that it will be pretty bitter.
  5. 4 cups of hot wort into 2 gal of chilled water will give you a pretty good pitching temp. A full pot of hot wort into maybe ~1 gal of (what temp?) water will most likely give you well over 80* water. What were saying is, extra water in the boil is not that big of a deal. Pitching yeast in too hot a temp will defiantly give you some off flavors. These may condition out over time, but it may take well over the recommended 4 weeks.
  6. The draft brewer just looks like a keg + regulator + lines and adaptors. You'd still need co2, fridge, taps.
  7. Next batch, make sure to pitch the yeast in fairly cool wort. It should be close to your fermenting temps. 68-72*. Pitching too hot, 80-95* will not cause the yeast to die, they will love it, and go crazy reproducing in the hot tub, unfortunately they will also create a bunch of nasty tastes and smells that you really don't want in your beer.
  8. 5. http://www.amazon.com/Capella-Flavor-Drops-Big-Squeeze-Servings/dp/B005KFTDLW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1419954632&sr=8-3&keywords=bacon+flavor Try a drop in your next beer.
  9. American Lager bitter? yagottabepullingmyleg
  10. The yeast will find that sugar. So, no real problems. (insufficient aeration, proper temp for pitching, stressed yeast, etc. could cause off flavors, but you will get beer)
  11. There are spreadsheets and apps you can use for correction. The one below is close enough that you'll probably have a greater margin of error from reading your hydrometer. http://seanterrill.com/2012/01/06/refractometer-calculator/
  12. give the bottles a little agitation, and wait two more weeks.
  13. Over time the essential oils will break down. Much of that is due to oxidation, so the less o2 you get at bottling the longer it will last.
  14. Not a Brewmaster but I'll give it a shot.... 1. If you have a longer boil to do, for getting more bitter out of your hops, DME may be better. LME tends to darken the longer the boil. 2. DME works great as a top off for all your recipes. Buy in bulk it will last longer, then when your recipe calls for x lbs of malt, and you only have (or can only purchase) x-1 lbs of LME, you can make up the difference with your stash of DME. DME also nice to have around if you are making a yeast starter.
  15. Let us know how yours turns out. I think mine still have a couple more weeks before they come into their own.
  16. azmark

    Banana Beer?

    http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/banana-bread-ale-90074/ For the Mr Beer brewer that wants to try to convert an all grain recipe.
  17. Distilled or RO is fine for Mr.B batches as the minerals are already in the HME. Even if you have your Water Co.s report, you can't be sure what's in your water. The reports are just yearly averages. They may get water from different sources, and average out over the year. They may do quarterly flushes with high amounts of chlorine.
  18. For a high abv ipa the rule of thumb should be thrown out the window. Let it carb and give one a try. If it's mainly bittering hop additions, the time wont matter as much. Taste and aroma is what will fade over time.
  19. Two things make it easier..... 1. Smaller batch size. 2. Pre hopped malt extract. 1. Makes life easier as you have to boil less, lift less etc. etc. 2. Keeps you down to a minimal boil time. Most other recipes will have you boiling 60min or more. Malt Extract, means someone else already took the great deal of time extracting all the sugars out of the grain. But other than that, many of the processes are the same, cleaning, sanitizing, temp control. And, you can still get sucked in spending much time, on a fun hobby.
  20. Let them sit outside the fridge for another 2 weeks. Let the yeast warm up and start doing their clean up work. Then back in the fridge.
  21. Very fresh LME or HME. (Hard to do with HME) No boil on the LME, just add right at flame out as with most Mr. Beer kits.
  22. I'm guessing this is for one LBK? I just did mine for a double batch, and split between 2 lbk's. So Our recipes are very similar.
  23. Well I cracked the first bottle over the weekend after two weeks in the bottle. Very well carbed, nice tan head, clear dark amber color. Still a bit of sweetness up front, hopefully that will mellow out more with a bit more time. But a good mid mouth bitterness that helped knock down the sweetness nicely. Little bit of alcohol in the finish, but worked more to clear the pallet than it was annoying. Great craft beer? No. But one of the top 3 batches I've brewed, even after just two weeks. This is the only beer I've brewed that I might confuse with a commercial craft brew. No yeasty taste or smell, no extract twang, plenty of hop bitterness.
  24. Inside room, inside the cooler, it should be fine. If you can keep it in the mid 60's the first few days, (wort temp) then you'd not have as much to worry about, as Bassman said. When you get back just get it to the low seventies for another week or so to make sure it finishes up. I live in AZ as well, and I'm sure my outside walls could vary from 50-85 depending on the time of day.
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