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Everything posted by azmark

  1. why dump it? will be an odd bird tho, that's for sure.
  2. you can use it,,,you just have to make sure to rinse about 1000x's. Chlorine, Bleach, and sents can cause your beer to have some crazy off flavors. and they might not even taste soapy. they can taste medicinal, or plasticy So look out for those tastes as well.
  3. "swenocha" post=363155 said:If the choice is Booster or another sugar, I would choose Booster any day of the week. I'm not as much of a hater on Booster as many on here. Now, I'm not planning to run out and buy more, but when I have it on hand, I have used it successfully many times. I don't feel that it causes cidery flavors in and of itself. It works well when used in moderation, and when used with the correct styles. I used it, for instance, with the CAL when doing a true lager and it was perfect. It also works as a nice adjunct for a hi-grav when you have 85% or so of your bill as malt, IMHO. Finally, I've used it for Belgians if I didn't have a candi syrup or something. It's not the best choice for that, but it is serviceable. +1 Have used booster a bunch of times and not once have I ever tasted anything close to cidery. Booster used to = newb with starter kit + adding a cup of sugar + hot fermentation temps + 1 week ferment + 1 week contition
  4. Booster is a good way to add abv without throwing off the flavor too much. LME will add some malt taste even if you use the light LME. It also helps with the body, which can be a bit watery in an extract brew.
  5. The current Seasonal White IPA is a bit Blue Moonish, they should still be available.
  6. There are hop bombs, there are malt bombs, Bud Light Platinum is a alcohol bomb. Basically it has very little malt or hop presence at all. If anything the main taste would be corn. These type of beers are very hard to reproduce by a home brewer. Main difficulty is they are a lager, so you'll have to really be able to control your temps if you want to shoot for it. You might want to head over to a brew pub, try a scotch ale, a brown, etc, until you find a more produceable brew that you like.
  7. A little extra malt would help, but what is added for priming is extremely little.
  8. The Cara... grains are not going to add taste or color to your beer, so your good to go.
  9. "Chuck N" post=361644 said:You can also try priming with DME instead of sugar.
  10. Most calcs will assume full attenuation. Your adding late to not achieve full attenuation and leave some honey taste. So the best you can do is guesstimate. Also, you might want to rethink 3 days. What you really want to do is to add it after active fermentation.
  11. fermcap An anti-foam agent that can be used during fermentation to eliminate messy blowoff. As soon as fermentation is over, this insoluble compound settles out and remains behind when the beer is racked. It will not affect the finished beers flavor, appearance or head retention. Can also be added during the boil to reduce the risk of boilovers. Use a few drops per gallon for boil, or two drops per gallon for fermentation. Comes in a one ounce eyedropper bottle. Keep refrigerated until use.
  12. "manosteel9423" post=360834 said: Diane is usually a bit chattier than that, but who knows if its even the same Diane. Regardless, it would appear that there is no backorder at the moment and that they are in stock and ready to ship. Are we sure it's always the same person talking as Diane?
  13. He's got the beard, he'll make great beer.
  14. azmark

    mr beer

    "Jim Johnson" post=360240 said:i've ran it to this in my lhbs. like the song says "the world is full of stupid people". what i don't understand is how is a MrB hme any different than the one they sell? other than amount, theirs being 5 gal.. Refreshments/RCPM reference?
  15. Extra time in the lbk, gives the yeast time to finalize their clean up. (yes, same will happen a bit slower in the bottle) then settle out. If you are in a big hurry yes, it can be bottled. Can it help with a little extra time in the lbk, most likely yes.
  16. More lingo for you. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gruit Gruit. The herbs and spices used in beer before the use of hops was the accepted standard.
  17. Lots will brew straight up so good comparisons can be made, but I don't think adding 1/2lb of Carapils will throw thing too outa wack.
  18. That's usually what I shoot for, but was wondering if I should bump this one up toward 70+ to see if I can't bring out more of the character of the yeast. Temp range for the yeast is up to 75*, so setting the fermentation chamber to 70 would keep wort under 75, and bring out all the estery flavors. A specialty ale yeast selected for its estery, somewhat peppery and spicy flavor. It is an good choice for wheat and Belgian-style beers. Since this yeast forms a solid sediment at the end of secondary fermentation, it is widely used for bottle and cask conditioning. It has excellent performance in beers with alcohol content up to 8.5%, but is able to tolerate high alcohol conditions up to 11.5%. •Flocculation: Medium •Attenuation: High •Ideal Fermentation Temperature: 59-75 F (15-24 C)
  19. "timmsram" post=358731 said:WOW, that was fast guys! Thank you for all the advice & suppport right out of the gate! AWESOME! I haven't bought too much in the way of "extras" since I wanted to see how the first couple of batches went. I was afraid it would be turn out to taste bad and I'd have wasted my $$. Just being cautious, plus I tend to start on a project or hobby & then go nuts and full bore. Usually, its modifying cars or trucks, so my wife is just rolling eyes at yet another hobby! Well have to come back with her opinion when she gets to taste this hobby!
  20. What temp is everyone going to try with the t58 yeast?
  21. Anything larger than 12oz makes the "Homebrew pour" a very hard thing to do.
  22. "richtazz" post=357844 said:That late in the carb/conditioning stage, I'd say they will be fine as long as they are in the dark. After all, commercial beers are transported in the summer in non-temp regulated trucks that get a lot warmer than 82* f. Those beers are pasturized and have no active yeast in them.
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