Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community


Community Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About KokomoSam

  • Rank
    Brewmaster in Training
  1. KokomoSam


    I haven't made this recipe, but i have been eyeing Palmer's Belladonna Took's Oaked Mild for a light fall beer.
  2. Next time you might try using something like this http://www.simplebiabcalculator.com/ for calculating strike temp for free. Or of course BeerSmith is also a great tool.
  3. My first introduction to the 2-2-2 method was from the Mr. Beer Fans website. In that version 2-2-2 means 2 weeks fermenting at 65-75 degrees, 2 weeks carbonating in the bottles at 65-75 degrees, and 2 weeks cold conditioning at fridge temps, so I can understand the confusion and this method is better then the original Mr. Beer instructions there was still a chance of having unfinished fermenting beer or under carbonated beer or just your beer. The first three in 3-4 is increased from 2 to make sure that fermentation is complete without a hydrometer measurement. It is all about making sure you have a good beer brewing experience. For the four in 3-4-1, patience is usually rewarded. In my experience my beer tastes better the longer I have aged it.(with the exception of some VERY hop intensive beer) I sometimes extended this to 6 weeks at room temperature for high ABV beers or beers with lots of fruit, spices or adjuncts.
  4. "russki" post=381746 said:More mead pr0n... I was at a farmers market this weekend, and picked up some Tupelo honey; not very common in the Midwest - I actually have not seen it for sale around here before. Apparently, a local apiary trades some of their honey with one in Florida, or so they tell me. Anyway - today I mixed up a quick no-boil 1 gallon batch: 3.25 pounds of raw Tupelo Honey 1.5 tsp yeast nutrient RO water to 1 gallon 5g pack of Lalvin 71B-1122 yeast, rehydrated OG: 1.125 [img size=500]http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/7902/2wo4.jpg is that tape holding on the stopper?
  5. "Dibs" post=381363 said:Going to try and do this recipe I found that is Gumballhead-like, but since I don't have a mash tun I'd like to try and do it BIAB if possibe. I had a couple of questions: 1. Since it only calls for about 5 lbs of grain, I'm guessing I can do it in a 12qt. pot since my mash volume should be somwhere around 1.5 gallons? For BIAB you will need more water or you will get VERY low efficiency 20% -30%. I know. I tired what you are talking about and it doesn't work. For my equipment and a Mr. Beer sized batch I start with a bit more then 3.5 gallons of strike water. I once did a Mr. Beer sized BIAB batch in a 16 quart (4 gallon) pot and I made a mess. I now use a 6 gallon pot for 2.4 gallon BIAB batches and I would recommend at least a 5 gallon pot. Here is a link to a 2.5 gallon BIAB Guide that I personally found very helpful. "Dibs" post=381363 said: 2. Can I do a continuous sparge instead of a batch sparge? I'm thinking since I will loose some water to grain abosrption, I can just sparge with a tea kettle @ 170 to get the volume over 2 gallons and do my hop boil? If I'm a little short after the boil, I'll just top off with water? I might be confused, but you don't do a "sparge" as such with traditional BIAB. You start with the full volume of water. You can do a mash out by bringing the water to 170 and leaving it at that temp for 10 minutes before you start a boil. You can try to do a combo BIAB/ with Sparge, but personally I haven't had much luck with that method. You are correct that if you end up short of your volume you top off before you pitch your yeast. "Dibs" post=381363 said: 3. Any idea on the conversion from 2.75 to 2.13 (LBK size)? I plan to put it in Beersmith tonight but was just curious what some of you would do with the amount of grain and hops after conversion. Since your recipe calls for 75% efficiency, the difference is small and this is your first BIAB, I would be tempted to leave it as is and assume a lower efficiency. If you want to adjust, Beersmith has a tool to help you or just do the math.
  6. I had a similar experience, the fridge got way to cold. My basement fridge is odd sometimes. My beer didn't freeze solid, but it did stay below 32 degrees for some unknown amount of time while I had a batch cold crashing. I bottled the beer, waited 4 weeks only to find flat beer. I guess it wasn't cold enough to freeze, but it was cold enough to kill my yeast. Talk about a "cold crash" :freeze: Like you said.... opps.
  7. "russki" post=379523 said:That's pretty weird for S-04; usually it drops like a rock in a few days. I would personally just put both of these away for at least a few months - I'd be surprised if it doesn't clear. Or you can always cold crash. The one confession I need to make as a possiblity of problems with teh S-04 is I probably pitched too much yeast. I meant to put half a packet in and put probably as much as 3/4. I was just eyeballing and and messed up. Could over pitching contribute to this? if if yes, what are the corrective actions?
  8. Day 37: Should I start to worry about stuck fermentation in the S-04 batch on the right? There is still a small stream of bubbles coming up the jug, but it is not clearing and there is a good bit of trub forming.
  9. Day 26: sweet mead yeast on the left and S-04 on the right
  10. "ManimalCrackers" post=375681 said:KokomoSam: I always love pictures of aging mead. Just to be clear, all of the ingredients in those two bottles are from the same initial batch, the only difference being type of yeast used in each? Yep. Both jugs are the same except for the yeast. The Sweet Mead yeast had already started to drop out and the S-04 has not so that seems to be the main difference. I can still see about the same level of bubbles coming from each though.
  11. 19th day of fermentation. Sweet Mead yeast on the left and S-04 on the right.
  12. "RageKage" post=370838 said:Great. Think I'm gonna go with: 1 oz of Falconer's @ 60 1/2 oz Cascade @15 1/2 oz Cascade @ 0 Dry hop with 1/2 oz of Falconer's. Am I going overboard? Did you make this? 1 oz at a 60 minute boil on top of the already hopped malt extract would make a very bitter beer.
  13. So just to make sure I have this covered. I want to post where I am looking for email addresses and verify I am looking at the right place / places to change my email address as there are more then one spot that you can enter email addresses at mrbeer.com. For the community it seems pretty simple... Profile => Edit => Edit Users Information => E-Mail For Mr. Beer main site it seems like it could be more complicated as there is more then one place ACCOUNT LOGIN => Edit Shipping Address OR ACCOUNT LOGIN => Edit Billing Address What I need to verify, is there someplace else that holds email?
  14. "BlackDuck" post=370541 said:I got my Pear Cider today from MB. Has anyone made this stuff yet? I didn't get directions with it so I looked on the MB site and found directions for the NEW and the OLD refills. The old refills have you add sugar and the new one do not. So I got on the live chat with Brianna today and she said the new ones do not need the sugar added. However, you can add sugar to increase the ABV and dry it out a little. I'm not looking for a sugar/sweet bomb in my ciders. I kind of like them a little drier. So I'm gonna throw some sugar at it. Anybody else make either the new apple or pear ciders? What are your thoughts and comments? I think the standard BORG answer applies. Make it straight up the first time to wee what it is before you tweek. Thanks guinea pig!
  15. "JohnDubya" post=369844 said:Thanks Kokomo, me likey pron, beit beer or cider.... :woohoo: I am glad I am not the only one... Here is the Wyeast Sweet Mead yeast at over a day.. much less active, but still cool.
  • Create New...