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About TomToro

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  1. That's going to help, Mano! Gives me something to use as a guideline. Thanks much and your avatar has to be one of the best SNL skits ever. The other I like is with the same gentleman as 'The Colonel'. "manosteel9423" post=252205 said:Hey Tom...I've never used the pellets, but stouts are usually a bit lower on the carb while wheat beers are usually a bit higher. Screwy Brewer has a good priming calculator and he lists the appropriate CO2 volumes for most styles right underneath it, but his calculator doesn't account for your pellets. http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html#bpc EDIT As a rule of thumb, when looking at the style chart, I would say that anything listed under 2.0 CO2 volumes would be classified as "low" carbed. Anything between 2.0 - 3.0 would be "medium" carbed and anything above 3.0 would be "high" carbed. Obviously, that would be a pretty vague way to predict your final outcome, but I don't think these pellets are meant to come out with an exact volume.
  2. "meopilite" post=252303 said:Do you think you'd be able to buy a beer making kit if it was illegal? The only law about it is the 100 gallon/year limit. But, who is gonna know how much you brew? I figured it was legal, but wondered what the volume allowed was. Now that I know it's 100 gallons per adult, I'm pretty darn safe. As to your second question, I was 'stupidly' posting my progress on Facebook, lol. Thanks for the help, Everybody!
  3. My buddy has been joking about the law calling and telling me to stop. Is brewing beer in these small batches for personal use legal in the U.S.? I'd never sell the stuff and give most away anyway to family/friends. Is there a limit as to how much we can brew ourselves?
  4. Just bottled 88 bottles using Brewer's Best carb pellets. I usually use 3/4 tsp of corn sugar. I used 5(high) in 3 brews (ginger's ale,Lime lager,marzen) and 4(med) in 1 (oatmeal stout). Q: Anybody have good or bad luck using these pellets? Q: Since I can adjust how much carbonation easily, is there a list of which beers need high, med or low carbonation? I know it's subjective to individual taste, but in general for different type, what is 'normal' for an example a stout? I used medium just because I've had a stout with high and didn't like it. Thanks, Tom
  5. Looking for an extract recipe (ale) that offers low carbs (5 or less), with a decent taste and around 4-5% abv. Anything like that exist? Not too worried about the calories, but I'm sure that will be low anyway. The best I've done so far is a marzen. Started at 1.050, ended at 1.002. Less than 10 carbs and 6.9%. That's the lightest beer I've made. Also wondering how in the world it got so low on the fg. I put a whole safale 5 in and the orange zest. Thanks, Tom
  6. I bottled my 7 gallon ipa and 60 bottles later, I'm out of empties. Cheapest I've found is $14.99 for 24 12oz. Anybody found anything cheaper online? I used up all my .10$ deposits and everybody I know use the screw tops. I have about 15 gallons left that will be ready next month. Any Ideas? Thanks, Tom
  7. I know there's been other threads on this, but I still have some questions. I've been using table sugar for bottle priming. My store told me to try corn sugar for carbonating because of off tastes and he said corn sugar ferments 100%. I prime the hard way and put 3/4 teaspoon in each 12oz bottle and it's been taking around 2 weeks to carbonate (I've checked a couple of batches). Q: Do I use corn sugar exactly the same way that I use cane? Do I use 3/4 teaspoon still? Q: Does it carbonate any slower or faster than the table sugar I've been using? I let bottles condition 4 weeks minimum from bottling date. Q: If I wanted to thin out a very malty beer, would I be better off (taste wise) if I use corn sugar vs. booster, honey or brown sugar? Which would give me the least cidery taste and ferment the best? Thanks, Tom
  8. I'm trying to get a handle on conditioning times for different types/gravities of beer. Is it safe to assume that most larger (higher gravity OG) beers take a lot longer to condition (in the bottle and/or the fermenter) than a lower gravity beer or is that too generalized? If it is o.k. to assume this, then are there certain conditioning times that can be associated with certain og gravities? eg.1.050-8 weeks conditioning or whatever? Is there a chart somewhere that suggests conditioning times in the bottle for various beers?
  9. I bought the Full Moon Marzen recipe kit and followed the instructions: 1 high Country Canadian Draft HME 1 golden wheat ume 2 cups honey 1 medium orange rind grated yeast The description says 1.071 OG and 7% abv if it ferments down to 1.018. When I punched this list in, I got 1.054 OG and Hopville estimates 1.012 FG for around 4.8% abv Q:Did Mr. Beer drop the ball on this one and forget one HME or UME or did I do something wrong?
  10. 1.What is orange zest? 2.Can I make it from a regular orange (peel it or shred it or how) 3.How much of the finished zest should I use for a wheat beer in the 2gallon lbk? 4.Is fresh zest better than the stuff I can get at the brew store? 5.When do I add the zest? Boil(?minute)?, Cooled wort?, After fermentation like a dry hop (in a muslin sack)? Thanks, Tom
  11. First batch of american ipa was less than good. Very bland. Didn't do it right. Many mistakes including lack of patience. Tasted my second batch today and I'm pleased. Good floral scent(dry hopped for a week with 1/2 oz of cascade),too small hop flavor, a little too much alcohol taste (tastes like a 90 minute Dogfish), no bitter(didn't do any hop boil) and clean finish with no cider taste(very surprised since I overdid the adjunct ratio). 2-2-2. Only took 8 out of 20 in the fridge and tasted a couple. The rest I'm going to age for another month at room temps (68 to 70) to see if age makes the taste better. But very drinkable. Even my wife had one and didn't complain. Next up, Mad Dog IPA that I did better IMO. 22 min boil with 1 oz centennial, 1 week with 1oz cascade. I'll do 2-2-2 again, but again only with a six pack. The rest (16)I'll age at a month longer.
  12. KZ wrote: No not a bad thing, just adjust your dry hop schedule accordingly. So once it stalls on the sg for a couple of days, dry hop for a week then bottle?
  13. ZiggyZag wrote: That yeast mut be beast! Can you figure out which one it is? How much ? WYeast American Ale, but wasn't the 2 Why did you check the gravity so soon? A lot of Trub? Lots of stuff at the bottom and a thin foam on the top how quick dod Karousen start and how high? Started the next day about 1/2" or so. How is kraousen at 3rd 4th day? Seems to be getting thinner. As long as Ferm temps were in range , should be ok. Still want to let it go at least two weeks, maybe give it another 2-3 days and dryhop. Speedy Beast Brew! O.K, thanks for the help. I'll let it go the two weeks and I'll check again in a week.
  14. I made a 2 gallon batch of Pale Ale with Mr. Beer Ingredients on 2-23-12: 1 HME West Coast Pale 1 UME Pale Export 1/2 cup honey 1 booster 1oz cascade 14 min boil Wyeast American Ale (can't remember the number) and used it all. And my OG was at 1.055. I was supposed to be at 1.047, but I figure the honey and booster kicked it up some. Ferment temps were at 70 very steady. Today my SG was at 1.010. By the way, it tasted great already. Very light, but with a good taste. My other beers never taste this good at this point. Q:Is this a bad thing for it to be this low, this soon? I was going to dry hop some cascade a week before I bottle. Q: Should this change the time I put my dry hop in? When would you suggest I do that so I don't get the veggie taste? Thanks, Tom
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