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Everything posted by JonEleven

  1. Glad you are alright! I have been hearing a lot of these stories as well... weird. Is anyone else expecting zombies? I mean you here enough about these and face eating stories and you start to wonder if you should start preparing for the worst... just sayin!
  2. Every time this happened to me I had used a significant amount of store bought LME. Turned out that was the problem. Mr. Beer malt extract seemed to be okay and of course all grain works out fine (too fine in some cases!) but I don't think I'll be using store bought malt extract again unless I have specific need of a brew finishing with a high gravity.
  3. +1 to the general thanks Just do a longer mash and a super efficient sparge maybe? You can do it!
  4. You sound like you did pretty much everything right, nice to see you researched before jumping in!
  5. Nice little guide I will definitely try this
  6. I actually re-primed once with an apfelwein that I had brewed. I drank some of it and then decided it would be better carbonated so I opened a bottle poured some out and then primed it with apple juice. It worked great, nice and fizzy, just make sure to sanitize!
  7. Congrats on the stout! You do not have to sanitize the measuring cup if you will be boiling anything you put into it. You probably should sanitize the can opener because you will not be actively boiling the HME. The chances of contamination are low, but it is so simple to sanitize by just throwing it into the LBK with everything else. It's not worth losing 2 gallons of beer over.
  8. That is true so long as you don;t use TOO much of it. I have done a lot of experimenting with this over the past few months and I'll just say... there is a limit to how hoppy you want your bread to be. So long as you are doing Mr. Beer recipes it shouldn't be a problem but I tried a trub bread made from an IPA I brewed and man that thing was bitter!
  9. I just broke 2, picked up a case and the bottom fell out. In retrospect it was great I ONLY lost 2, but I was pissed. They exploded, glass and beer everywhere. Some glass made it 10 feet away!
  10. I'd say it depends on the yeast you are using. Personally for most ale yeasts I think that 60-70 is better than 55-65 though
  11. Whoa! That's awesome! The best I ever saw around my area was 12 cans of HME plus the LBK, and it was being offered for free Unfortunately I saw the add moments too late
  12. Go back and check your time machine, you missed the mark by about 6 months.
  13. I'm not really sure I follow... You will just end up with beer that probably will have less sweet caramelly characteristics. I have made a few with little to no crystal and they turned out great.
  14. So you are saying you want to dry hop the beer? That should work out fine, but you won't really get any taste just aroma from them. So long as you are doing a 2 gallon batch just using both cans should be fine but adding some booster would bring the alcohol content up a little, maybe go with half a pack? Safale S-05 is a good clean yeast or if you have any leftover mr beer yeast that should work as well. It shouldn't taste too light so long as you are using all of that malt.
  15. I don't know too much about the science of it but personally I have had the best results at about 1.4 quarts per pound
  16. I've never used maple syrup but just thought I'd chime in, if you hit gold that first time why not stick to the ingredients you used? You could toy with fermentation temperature or length, but as they say, if it aint broke don't fix it!
  17. Northern Amber Ale on that list was very good, I boiled the hops to bring the IBUs up to about 35 and it is tasting great!
  18. Yes I have noticed certain brands have different characteristics as well. One common thing with alexanders every time I have used it though is that my yeast under-attenuates and it has happened on my past 3 beers, some worse than others. However, in general the more grain I used the closer I seemed to get to projected FGs. Definitely agree on the control aspect as well, very appealing!
  19. I had been getting some high final gravities in my past few beers, all with different yeasts and had been wondering why. I had heard from time to time that the extract you are using can be the culprit. Now let me preface this with the statement that this is not a knock against ALL extracts but simply gave me proof that the alexanders brand at my LHBS is more than a little subpar. I brewed a 2 gallon batch of a belgian style beer all grain with an OG of 1.062 and since i was springing for the wyeast trappist yeast I decided to throw together a little batch of patersbier with some extra pale extract I had lying around with an OG of about 1.04. I bottled the patersbier after two weeks when it was pretty stable at 1.013. Now at about 2.5 weeks I just took a gravity reading on the normal belgian style ale and I'm down to 1.005. 90% Attenuation. I know many of you may be thinking I have a bug or something but the taste is great and it is stable at that gravity. Furthermore I have read that 90% attenuation is not unheard of for a belgian trappist yeast. Anyway, the only difference between the two beers aside from the batch size was the pale extract vs using american 2 row grain. they were kept in the same room for fermentation and used the same package of yeast. It just goes to show you that sometimes that low attenuation can be caused by the extract. Go all grain!
  20. Thank you! Haha that brewsculpture looks great but definitely is out of my price range! And thanks for the further advice on kettles I think I will definitely go for a 10 gallon minimum. And bayou classic seems to be popular I think ill go for that. I was also thinking since summer is coming I should look on Craigslist for an old fridge to pair with a johnson controller to control the fermentation temperatures
  21. Yeah that totally makes sense, and I would prefer to have the option of doing either, especially since I already have experience with BIAB
  22. Thanks everyone for the kind words! And yes added to the list should definitely be a wort chiller and a mill, hadn't thought of either of those yet! I do already have a couple of ale pails lying around so I will be able to put them to good use. I may indeed go over to morebeer, I have been there once before and they were very helpful. Just out of curiosity is everyone suggesting the 10 gallon kettle just so I can do BIAB and have the ability to move to larger batches if necessary or is there something I am missing where a 7 gallon kettle with a mash tun wouldn't do the trick? Which do you guys think is better either way, mash tun or BIAB? I only have experience with small scale BIAB. Also is there anything special I should know about propane burners or will most any do the trick? Thanks again for all the great advice!
  23. Well my time has finally come, and even though I still need to complete a few more summer courses I got to attend my graduation ceremony at UC Berkeley yesterday woo! Anyway my father has generously offered to take me out to buy all new brewing equipment as a graduation gift and I am just wondering what some recommendations would be for someone looking to move to at least 5 gallon all grain. I know I will be needing a propane burner as my electric stove doesn't really cut it well even now. Then also a 6 or 7 gallon pot. Some sort of mash tun... and I'm kind of blanking on the rest. Any further advice and recommendations would be awesome! And if you have specific brands you know to be good that would be great too. Thanks all!
  24. I was going to say, I have missed my expected OG by worse and I have no excuse other than my own stupidity! Seems like you did alright
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