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About J-Rock

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  1. I use the generic Oxi-clean stuff from the dollar store to wash my bottles in a bottling bucket. Soaking them in there for a few helps remove labels. Once rinsed with water it's into StarSan for sanitizing.
  2. Good info here. My last Pale Ale and IPA have suffered from chill haze (AG brews), and I used whirlfloc and Irish Moss. Enough time in the fridge and it clears up, but it would be nice to not have to wait. Would a protein rest during mash help with this? I use a spoon to stir the wort while chilling and have noticed some "stuff" clumping and accumulating at the bottom, but still manage to get some into the bucket before pitching the yeast. How do you whirlpool after removing the chiller? Do you just periodically lift the lid and stir?
  3. I picked up an extra bottling bucket and lid (no spigot) and I keep a 5 gallon batch of StarSan Sanitzier on hand, plus some in a spray bottle. This is very convenient and can last you 6 months or more depending on how often you brew. After I sanitize my fermenters, I pour it back in the bucket. Also, I used distilled water for the sanitizer because of all the crap in the water here. Keeps it clear.
  4. Thanks, though I should clarify that the chips were still in there during the crash, so it's 6 days in total. I'll wait it out.
  5. I recently brewed a semi-clone of Firestone Walker's Pale 31 Pale Ale. The recipe I found called for 1/2oz of oak chips for dry hopping (5 gal batch). The guy at my LHBS said there was no point in so little and recommended 2oz for a 5 gal batch. This beer does not have a strong oak flavor, so I took his advice. I split my 5 gal batch between 2 LBK's with a little less than 1oz of oak chips in each. I steeped the oak chips in hot water (170+) for 10-15 minutes to sterilize, then put it in a muselin sack with .25oz ea of Cascade, Centennial, and Galena. It dry hopped for 3 days at room temp, then cold crashed for 3 days. At the time of bottling, the oak flavor was strong. Much stronger than I wanted. This was my first time working with oak chips. Will this flavor subside as the beer conditions? Thanks.
  6. I brewed a 5 gallon all grain porter today. Getting used to some new equipment and my OG was really low, measured 1.032 when target was 1.054. I was following this recipe and was fly sparging for the first time, and it didn't go as well as I'd hoped. http://brewblog.beerbarons.org/index.php?page=brewBlogDetail&filter=kmegal&id=83 I did make a 2000ml yeast starter that sat on a stir plate for 4 days, and took my gravity reading before adding the starter to the wort. The brew smelled good, but I'm concerned about how low the OG was. Should I boil some DME to get some more sugar in there? If so, how much? Thanks.
  7. I agree, don't dump it. Give it another week in the LBK, and it may take time to condition out in the bottle, but it's still beer, and will eventually be drinkable. My first batch, Cowboy Golden Lager, took at least 6-8 weeks for the cidery taste to condition out, but it was worth the wait. A few months ago I brewed a Bavarian hefeweizen and the first bottle was bad, very banan'y and medicine'y, after time the medicine'y taste has gone and the banana is mellowing. It's going to take more time, but it'll get good. Keep us posted, and let us know how bad it isn't
  8. Yeah, it sounds like HSA is not going to be an issue. I think I'm going to go with a bottling bucket and hose to ensure safe transfer so I don't spill and/or burn myself.
  9. "FedoraDave" post=285211 said:I have a question for J-Rock. Not related to HSA. You say you're going to convert your kettle as a mash tun, transfer the wort to a bucket, clean out the tun/kettle, transfer the wort back into the tun/kettle and then proceed to the boil. Do I understand that correctly? If this is what you plan to do, how are you going to maintain your mash temperature for an hour? I can't see a stainless steel kettle not losing ten or twenty degrees unless you reapply heat somewhere during that time, and there's a danger of scorching or uneven heating, and thus poorer efficiency. Building your own mash tun from a ten-gallon cooler and some hardware from Lowe's would cost less then fifty bucks, and take you only an hour to put together. You can find plenty of schematics online for a project such as this, and you avoid a lot of hassle. Thanks for the info guys. While HSA doesn't sound like it will be an issue, I forgot that I'll be having to transfer quite a bit more wort than I previously have, so pouring could be a safety issue. A bottling bucket with a spigot and hose is cheap enough that I'll probably go that route. Dave, because my current kettle isn't quite big enough for full volume boils, I am looking to get an 8 gallon stainless steel kettle/mash tun, with a valve, thermometer, and false bottom. I already have a propane stove I use to mash/boil on. So the idea is to mash in the new kettle/mash tun, use my old kettle to heat my sparge water on the stove (as a hot liquor tank, am I right with my terminology here?), then run the sparge water from there through the mash tun to sparge/rinse the grains and collect in a bottling bucket. Once the grains are rinsed, then clean out the mash tun, remove the false bottom, transfer the wort and boil in it. Sorry if that wasn't clear from the start. I thought about converting a cooler, but I really need an 8 gallon kettle for boiling anyhow, so I was looking at getting one I could use for the mash and then the boil.
  10. I've been doing 2.5 gal BIAB in my 5gal kettle. I'm looking to get an 8gal Mash Tun to do full volume boil 5gal all grain brews. My plan is to convert my current kettle into a HLT in order to feed sparge water into the mash tun, and collect the wort in a bottling bucket. After the sparge, I'd clean out the mash tun and use it as a boil kettle. Someone told me that when transferring the wort into the brew kettle, you want to avoid aerating it. I could get a bucket with a spout and hose to carefully drain into the brew kettle, but is that really necessary since the wort is going to be boiled for an hour? Would there be any problem with pouring the wort into the kettle? Thanks.
  11. I've re-carbed undercarbonated beer a couple of times. Check out this thread: http://community.mrbeer.com/forum/18-advanced-brewing-techniques/193537-re-priming-under-carbed-bottles
  12. I have done several batches without boiling and have never had a problem, you should be fine.
  13. Congrats. I too enjoy the feeling knowing that my beer is fermenting, and the smell too Most will tell you to give it 3 weeks in the LBK before bottling, and at least 4 weeks in the bottle before going to the fridge.
  14. Just wanted to post an update. I bottled this last weekend. Splitting this into two 2.5gal (actually about 2.25) batches worked great. Pre-boil, starting, and final gravity readings were almost dead on. Almost 3 weeks in the LBK, 2 days cold crashed. After only 1 week in the bottles I threw one in the fridge, WOW! This beer is delicious. My first BIAB was a huge success, I'm really excited for this, such a big improvement over my extract brews. Thanks to all for the help along the way. :chug:
  15. You could pick up a 2nd LBK and brew 5 gallons at a time
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