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SteveCon

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About SteveCon

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  1. FD is the man, he has given me great advice over the last year and got me out of the doldrums last fall when I was experiencing burnout. :cheers: :barman:
  2. That is a great idea on the saving a little one step in a cup. I usually clean out my sink real well plug it and pour my one step from my LBK into it as as a sanitizing sink so to speak. I used to use iodine, but not anymore. I also have a spray bottle of star san for most of my sanitizing needs on the fly.
  3. +1 on hydrometer, and if you beer isn't real high in ABV then you are probably ready to rock and roll on the bottling. What did you brew?
  4. "JohnDubya" post=365932 said:If your already doing a boil, a 7 minute boil is good for aroma. If not already doing a boil, dry hopping also works. Your choice. Hell do them both.
  5. Going mad scientist, and in my opinion there is nothing wrong with that. I've put three HME's together and it turned out to be a damn good beer, to bad they don't make those HME's anymore. I say go for it and let us know the results. I'm sure others will have differing opinions or maybe the same. It's your beer my friend. edit Looking over some of the recipes Patriot has been used with American Ale and American Light HME's so go for it and let us know how it goes. S-33 would be a fine yeast to use for this beer.
  6. You can't go wrong with dry hopping Cascade for any PA or IPA. As far as the hops u used for flavor/aroma I've never used them so not an expert there.
  7. A little over a week in and my gravity is 1.017, started at 1.060 I believe. Probably going to dry hop a 1/4 oz Cascade and 1/4 oz Centennial this weekend. I tasted the sample and it didn't have the bite like most IPA's we'll see where it sits in another week an a half. I really want to see what it's like straight up, but my hop head tendencies want to dry hop this beer.
  8. "mashani" post=364300 said:I'm still waiting to brew mine, but sounds like I'm adding a dry hop or a hop stand... I've got plenty of hops that will go well in it I think. @Kellia, I've never had T-58 get stuck, so ??? Following suit on that idea.
  9. "dbrowning" post=363198 said: "SteveCon" post=363196 said:willsr Wrote: SteveCon wrote: I had to idle my extract down to 3.25 to get my OG. I shouldn't have to remove a 1/2 lb of extract to get my OG. What does this mean? How I am reading it, you didn't use all the extract because it would have made your OG too high. Your OG was stated 1.060, what would it hurt if it was higher? And if so, why not just use it all and add more water? Ok I guess I wasn't very clear, I was a little :party: . What I mean is in my brewing program I had to reduce my malt content to 3.25 lbs to get my OG of 1.060. I should have seen 1.066 at 3.75 lbs of extract for 2 gallons of beer. Sorry for the confusion. I can see a 1 or 2 point drop, but not 6 points. Hope that clarifies my previous post. thats still kinda clear as mudd Why did you leave out some of HME Why not brew as designed? U R killing me Please re-read the part about reducing the malt in the program. The whole can was used.
  10. SteveCon wrote: I had to idle my extract down to 3.25 to get my OG. I shouldn't have to remove a 1/2 lb of extract to get my OG. willsr Wrote: What does this mean? How I am reading it, you didn't use all the extract because it would have made your OG too high. Your OG was stated 1.060, what would it hurt if it was higher? And if so, why not just use it all and add more water? Ok I guess I wasn't very clear, I was a little :party: . What I mean is in my brewing program I had to reduce my malt content to 3.25 to get my OG of 1.060. I should have seen 1.066 at 3.75 lbs of extract for 2 gallons of beer. Sorry for the confusion. I can see a 1 or 2 point drop, but not 6 points. Hope that clarifies my previous post.
  11. "Trollby" post=362867 said:Mine went crazy, I looked at it 6 hours in keg and Krausen is already 1.5" - 2", bet this is going to blow off --- edit --- Anyone dry hop? I will now, probably with 1/2 oz of Cascade or Centennial.
  12. Brewed mine today and a little agitated. The OG was 1.060 and the wort was sweet nothing like an IPA. We'll see what the finished product has to say for itself. I had to idle my extract down to 3.25 to get my OG. I shouldn't have to remove a 1/2 lb of extract to get my OG in Brewmate.
  13. "Jim Johnson" post=362726 said:i am doing small bib partial mashes now but am limited in the size by equipment to keep at temp. it's the only real reason i haven't tried a ag bib yet. thinking it over the thought occures that i could get a roasting pan w/lid put 2 red bircks in the oven and pre heat for a couple of hours at 150. put the roasting pan in and the bricks should serve to make the oven stable at 150 heat loss from the pan should be minimal in just 1 hour. even if it dops to 150 it's still in mash range and i don't think it'll actually fall more than a couple of degrees anyway. [attachment=12801]roastingpan.jpg[/attachment] some of these things hold more than my pot (32q) You have the picture. All my BIAB batches are 75% grain 25% extract. What I do is preheat my oven to 170 degrees and use a 8-10 quart pot with a lid to do my mash. This works great for LBK size batches which is all I do anyways. This is the flow, preheat oven 170, figure out strike water amounts and temps, put bag into pot pre-boiled (I do this to remove the chlorine) water that say is at 190 degrees or so, let temp come down to strike temp, add grains and stir real well, cover and put into oven, after 2 mins I shut the oven off and let sit for an hour. Mashani turned me on to doing partial mashes like this when I first started out. I do a batch sparge and I use roughly the same amount of water I use for the mash for my sparge in my boil pot. I let is sit for 10-15 mins and do a mashout with my first runnings. I usually get between 70-75% efficiency and have got 82% once. It works for me as I do everything off a stove top.
  14. I've noticed that my temp increase vary depending on the yeast you use. I predominantly use US-05, Notty and now BRY. They all seem to jump about 4-6 degrees with ambient temps in mid to low 60's. I have noticed if your ambient temps are in the higher 60's the jump is on the higher end of that 4-6 range. If I remember correctly S-33 jumped up 6-8 degrees, but is has been a while since I've used S-33, and mashani had a post that stated T-58 jumps close to the 10 degree range, so you seasonal purchasers beware of you pitching and ambient temps.
  15. I take it you are doing BIAB and a partial mash? I think it would be a great idea to use that unit if you can get you temp control managed and down pat.
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