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  1. Great thanks Ossian! One other lingering question I had, was should I upgrade the yeast or will the fromunda yeast be ok? Thanks
  2. fro.glow, first thanks for your service, and second for asking a question that has been on mind too. I too am getting ready to launch my second batch. It is MB's Shameless Stout recipe which has a HME, UME and booster. I was thinking about adding "some" DME in place of the booster. How much was part of my question, so it sounds like maybe 1#. From some of the responses, it sounds like I should keep the booster and DME, yes /no? From what I understand the booster doesn't really do anything but raise the ABV. Will adding the DME also make me add hops too? I was going to save that for my third or fourth batch...just trying to take baby steps so I can experience the contribution of each complexity added to the brewing process. Thanks
  3. Thanks for the info Knightmare! One follow-up question, you mention full bottles. I filled to the bottom of the neck...is that full enough? Or should I have gone higher. Thanks
  4. I have had my WCPA in bottles for a week now. The temp they have been sitting at is 63/64 degrees...is that too cold? I fermented at about 67. But due to the fear of bottle bombs, I have them in a different location now. I periodically swap in a warm jug of water, which gets the temp up to 67 for a while. But it also recedes back to 63 before the next bottle is put in (the cooler). Is it bad to be cycling the temp up and down like I am doing? Does the risk of a bottle bomb decrease with time...so I may be able to move them now? Or will the increase in temp raise the risk? BTW, they are swing tops...I have heard they are less prone to blowing...true? Thanks again for all the help.
  5. OK, looking for a little more first batch hand-holding here. First I would like to thank everyone for the help given so far. It is so great to be able to run off to the computer and jot down a question or verify a thought. I just bottled my first batch, WCPA+booster. My final reading was the same it was a week ago, and it was in the LBK for 16 days. My plan is to follow the 2-2-2 advice I have gotten on the Borg. Which leads to my first question, if you are going to "warm condition", is there really any difference between priming and conditioning? Is there anything else special I should be doing (except starting my next batch)? Second question is how critical is temperature during the two stages. I assume it isn't that critical for conditioning since you can cold or warm condition. But it looks like the spot I will be doing my carbing is a couple degrees cooler then where I was fermenting. It will be 63-64 versus 66-68. Plan is to leave it in the same spot for conditioning. Does there need to be some change between the two stages? Bad plan? Or will it be ok? Thanks again for the help.
  6. What is the preferred technique for sanitizing swing-top caps? Do you pull them off every time you bottle, soak and carefully put back on without touching the gasket? Or do you leave them on and spray with Star San before closing? Or...what? Thanks
  7. Thanks for the input. I will let 'er ride until next week and take another reading. Thanks
  8. Hi bp, It is the standard WCPA ingredients that come with the kit, 1 can of HME and a bag of booster. This is my first batch...so nothing fancy...yet. Thanks Rick
  9. Ok guys, I got my hydrometer and took a reading last night which was the 7th day in the LBK. I got 1.012. I know the point of taking it was for getting a differential later, but does that seem low for only a week? Can it go much lower...or do you think fermentation has completed? Thanks
  10. Thanks guys, good point. I will be stopping at the local home-brew store tomorrow for a hydrometer. Since I am coming up on the end of my first week, I guess a reading now and next week will be a good indicator of how important that second week is too. Any insight on hydrometer purchases? Will any ole one due, or should I belly up for best one?
  11. Thanks for the input. One question on using the hydrometer. If I understand its use correctly, you take a before and after readying. So for the batch I have in the LBK now, it won't do me any good since I obviously missed a before reading...correct? Thanks.
  12. Hi All, I am in the process of my first batch. Like a lot of the recent newbees, I got my Mr Beer for Xmas. You regulars must really hate this time of year...seems to be a burst of starter questions! I have seen a lot of advice that I should let the fermentation run longer then the suggested 7 days. So I was going with 2 weeks, but the more I read I see some recommend 3 weeks. Which if it leads to better beer..I am all for it. But that brings up a question, is there a risk to leaving it in the LBK too long? If one was to have the patience...is it always best to leave it even longer? What should be the max time? BTW, it is the West Coast pale ale. Thanks!
  13. Cam...thanks for asking my question! I have been thinking about posting this very same question. I am almost a week into my very first batch. Got the kit for an Xmas present...and now I am gonna see where it takes me. But back to the question at hand. The instructions say a low limit of 68...is that the low end of the perfect range or the absolute bottom end? I too have the themostat set for 68, but the temp on the LBK stays at 66. Will fermentation still occur...but just at a slower rate, or am I completely hosed? I planned going for two weeks either way. Are there any other suggestion for raising the temp? One other idea I had was an electric heater in the room I have the LBK in...but I wouldn't want to run that while I am not home. What is worse, having the temp at 66 and constant or going back and forth from 66 to 68+ when I am home and back to 66 when I am not? Thanks for the help!
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