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About smgarrett

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. All hail Pope Jamil (Mr. Malty)! But yes, for the most part, a yeast starter isn't necessary for a LBK-size batch.
  2. Welcome aboard zorak1066! As far as I've read, you can reuse the yeast as a nutrient. I've yet to try it though. There is a yeast nutrient called Servomyces, which is just a strain of yeast bread to have a lot of zinc. The yeast cake you'd be using won't be the same thing, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just as long as it's boiled for 10 minutes or so.
  3. +1 to that. When I brewed the Winter Dark, my LBK began throwing up all over itself in less than 24 hours. And I used US-05, so it's definitely not the C/MB yeast.
  4. Sometimes the beer gods (Ninkasi included) demand a sacrifice, whether it be beer, blood, or otherwise. At least you got that out of the way for now. I know we can all relate to the catastrophic brew days, don't let it get you down. Between you sanitizing, the yeast, and your white blood cells, I'm guessing your beer will be fine. Good luck just the same though.
  5. hmmm WCPA and booster you say? If you're wanting to use booster and ginger, my first thought would be to make a ginger wit. I've yet to make a wit, so I don't have any experience. I can tell you that from my experience, about 3/4 tsp of dried ginger root added 2 minutes prior to flameout works rather nicely. The ginger is definitely there, but it isn't overpowering. That's my 2 cents.
  6. I just saw the same email. I may have to take advantage of that.
  7. Welcome to the obsession cbaker41. 1) Do you happen to remember if those two bottles were the last ones you filled? If so, then you just got a little extra yeast in there. This is nothing out of the ordinary, and most of the yeast will settle out in time. 2) You don't need to do much while the beer is carbonating. Just try to keep the temperature within the range of the fermentation temperature, but if it goes a bit over or under, you should still be alright. I like to put the bottles in a box, and cover with a trash bag. I've never had a bottle bomb (thank the beer gods), but I don't want to clean up a mess, or deal with broken glass everywhere. Just an idea. 3) I'd keep the bottles in the fridge for at least a couple days, but you don't need to leave them in there for weeks before drinking. You're essentially just chilling the beer long enough for the yeast to settle out. One more thing, when pouring the beer, it's a good idea to leave the last inch or so in there. That's where most of your yeast will be, and yes, it can change the flavor of the beer a little. Hope that helps, good luck.
  8. I don't have a whole lot of experience yet. I haven't had a problem yet. I read something that said that some yeast strains, probably Belgians like mashani mentioned, will go into permanent dormancy if the temp goes below ~62F.
  9. Very nice review Kealia, you pulled off that story quite well. Still, I'll take an actual (good-looking) redhead over the BAA any day. Nothing personal C/MB.
  10. Yeah, mine was very clear too. That did impress me. Cold crash or not, I think this new yeast clean up much nicer.
  11. Just cracked open my first BAA today, after ~3 weeks in the bottle. It was nice and clear, and had a lovely dark red color. It wasn't terrible, but I wasn't overly impressed either. It had some malt flavor, but still tasted rather thin. Even with the added malto-dextrin, I thought I tasted a slight twang characteristic of several MB beers I've brewed, but it was far less pronounced. Who know, maybe it's all in my head. If I brew this HME again, I'm definitely adding a pound of DME, and I may even do a short hop boil to up the complexity a bit. But all-in-all, I could see this being a fairly decent session beer for me.
  12. "dbark" post=294707 said: "smgarrett" post=294465 said:It's funny, I actually want more complexity. Don't get me wrong, it's nice to do the actual brewing part in less than 20 minutes. But, I'm getting pretty antsy to move up to 5 gallon batches. Of course, the grass is always greener on the other side isn't it? I've been checking out primary and bottling buckets. They are inexpensive. I've also been getting geared up for 5 gallon batches. I'll start out with extract and get comfortable with that. Then I'll do a parital mash and slowly move up to AG. I gotta say Northern Brewer has some quality extract kits on their website. All I need to move up to 5 gallon batches is get the buckets and an auto siphon. I have everything else. I'm glad I've waited though because it seems like I learn something new everytime I brew a batch. Yeah, I know what you mean. There's a few things keeping me from taking the plunge. Lack of space and funds are the big ones. The buckets and other small bits aren't expensive at all. t's the carboys, and kettles that can start to get expensive. When I do move to 5 gallons, I want a large enough kettle to do BIAB, and that has a spigot so I don't end up with 3rd degree burns. That combination translates to a $150+ purchase. But, one day soon. In the words of Wayne, "It will be mine, oh yes, it will be mine."
  13. Uh oh, looks like you may have competition for your beer then.
  14. Yep, it's the new and improved Fromunda Downunda. I'll be making my final verdict today, when I try my first BAA.
  15. Call me crazy, but I have a feeling your modified version is going to be a little bit better Swenocha.
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