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Everything posted by jivex5k

  1. The only time I rehydrated I ended up killing the yeast... Probably shouldn't have used the upper temperature limit of 96F for rehydration though lol. I haven't had any problems with dry yeast attenuation though, but I don't have a control experiment to test it against. I think my biggest concern is keeping a stable ferm temp at this point, but I don't have the money to invest in a fridge/temp controller. I have a cooler with ice bottles but, you know, it's hard to keep it stable like that. So it seems like oxygen won't be a big help on the recent batch that came out poorly because I used dry yeast from danstar, my brewing buddy seemed to think it suffered from DMS and Fusels. Not sure how I got DMS in a non dry-hopped extract brown ale...but I know it fermentated hotter than I'd like it to have at one point. I have an IPA going right now, I upped the amount of frozen bottles in the cooler this time, want to keep it around 64F.
  2. Oh cool...well I have been washing yeast lately so it would be best to get one anyways, save money in the long run. But that's good to know I don't have to bother shaking my fermentation bucket when pitching danstar.
  3. I've found Danstar yeast to be an extremely fast finisher as well, usually right around 1 week total primary fermentation if not less. I used to be a liquid yeast only guy, but I've come to enjoy dry yeast much more.
  4. "BigFloyd" post=390074 said:I use THIS flow regulator attached to a small industrial O2 tank a friend gave to me along with an acetylene tank. A 0.5 micron stone from Austin Homebrew makes the tiny bubbles. I usually don't oxygenate when using dry yeast. With liquid yeast in ales, I hit it for 50-60 seconds on 1.5L. Double that time for lagers. Interesting. Why don't you use it for dry yeast?
  5. Just checked out their website, looks like they realized they had this problem: "**RB NOTE – We have changed suppliers on these regulators and they now come with a 1/4? barb" So that's cool, at least they are paying attention.
  6. I'm interested in getting one as the next step I can take to improve my beers. I'd be interested in any personal testimony on specific setups you guys have and enjoy. I brew 5 gallon batches, not that it would matter much, just more time needed running the o2 i'd assume.
  7. Just a little extra protein. In fact, earwigs are considered a delicacy in many cultures.
  8. I did it once, killed the damn yeast, I re-hydrated too hot but the instructions said to do so. I probably was at the upper limit of the suggested re-hydration temp though. Since then I don't bother, I just throw it in my wort and let it sit for 15 minutes, stir the crap outta it after that.
  9. "losman26" post=380989 said: Let me know how it turns out. I have a starter of this that has an expiration date of 6-13. I did a 1.8 starter, expecting it not to do much, and it is going crazy. This is definitely gonna be washed later on for future use. I racked it today, finished at 1.011, OG 1.050. Yeah it fermented very strongly for 4-5 days, tons of co2. Didn't finish as dry as I'd like it to, but not bad. Preliminary tasting shows very little yeast character, it's really going to let the dry hopping come through strong, right now it tastes like a well balanced pale ale.
  10. Holy hell that's one orange beer!
  11. I used to worry about this a lot, and about splitting the yeast in the proper amount. Spend 17 bucks on a 6.5 gallon bucket, or better yet get a bottling bucket. Then you can just siphon the wort into the bucket while leaving the break in the kettle, top it off to 5 gallons if needed, pitch the yeast and stir it up. Then split it between the two lbks.
  12. "losman26" post=380421 said:I'll probably go with the 1056 or the WL California ale because of the temp range. Has anyone tried the Lallemand West coast yeast? I'm using it right now for an IPA, fermentation took off like crazy after 24 hours. It's been a week since I pitched, going to take hydro readings today but it's probably pretty close to finished.I can't say much about the flavor or anything though since the beer isn't finished, but it ferments vigorously.
  13. I used it on an Imperial IPA, got to 1.008, was very satisfied with the attenuation. Very neutral as Rebel says, leaves a lot of room for hops to shine.
  14. Interesting.... Seems like the ratios are really flexible depending on whether you want more cider or mead qualities. I'm just gonna throw caution to the wind and follow my heart!
  15. Alright, I am overloaded with contradictory information and could use the helpful guidance of someone who has experience. I want to make a cherry cyser, like zombie killer if you know what that is. I know it's slightly carbed, which I know how to do with bottle no problem. Here are my questions: 1. Pasteurized Apple Juice or Unpasteurized? Seems like some use pasteurized but others say make sure it's cold pasteurized if you can. I'm not against juicing apples myself to make my own juice. 2. Heating up the juice? Some recipes call for it, but I swear I remembering hearing you just throw in the juice and let it rip. This might be for ciders only though and not cysers which require honey to be added. I assume the heat is to ease the addition of the honey so it melds better?? I think that's all I need to know. I don't have a recipe either but I want to make a 2.5 gallon batch so heres my quick recipe: 2.5 gallons of self juiced apple juice .75 lbs of Florida Orange Blossom honey 1 lb of cherries, crushed?? Ferment for 2-3 weeks, move to secondary for 6 months, taste throughout. Am I way off here? Just flying by the seat of my pants. Oh and will letting it sit in an LBK for 6 months have any negative consequences? I don't have a 2.5 gallon glass container.
  16. Well the first thing I notice is a lack of dry hopping. IMHO this is essential to every IPA, it adds so much hop character to the taste and aroma. It really makes a huge difference! The second thing I stop on is the lack of hop boiling. I realize HMEs are already hopped, but hop aroma and flavor fade quick, so if you got extract shipped from Australia who knows how old it is. You can't boil HMEs, but you can boil UME, and learning to do a hop boil would significantly increase your hop profile. The third thing I notice, but am mostly just guessing, is the ginger seems to be in direct competition with hops. Ginger is really strong and gives a super crisp taste to your beer, seems like that's the same space hop profiles would show up. Easiest solution? Dry hopping.
  17. jivex5k

    day 4

    I know this feeling all too well.
  18. If I'm talking about ones I can actually get: 1. Jai Alai 2. Two Hearted 3. Simcoe Double IPA 4. 75 Minute IPA 5. Stone IPA If I'm talking about the best I ever had the pleasure of tasting: 1/2. Pliny the Elder / Header Topper - yeah it's a tie, both amazing 3. Ruination 10th Anniversary 4/5. Simtra Triple IPA / Gangster Frog IPA
  19. Awesome, thanks for the insight! I was gonna just pitch on to my yeast cake but after reading and thinking and hemming and hawing I've decided it would be best to wash the yeast first. Plus then I can save more than I need for that batch, and maybe, just maybe do what Screwy does and keep jars of various yeast in my fridge. This Danstar West Coast strain is a beast, definitely one I want to use again.
  20. I see you need to boil a gallon of water, and cool it. What do you keep that much boiling water in, and how do you cool it? Do you just leave it in the pot overnight?
  21. "HermCardona" post=379092 said:Thanks! At least there's hope. I only took the chance because my previous two batches of Staggerback took more than 10 days before the PET bottles began to get hard. I bottled three PET bottles to use as tasters and they were still completely soft. Thanks again! You want to give them 14 days to fully carbonate, and then leave them for another 14 to condition and clean up any off flavors. Then put em in the fridge for a couple days before opening for the best beer experience.
  22. After two days? You probably didn't lose too much carbonation, but as Gymrat said whatever little amount had built up is released and you probably broke even at best. Mr B tends to recommend too much carbonation IMHO anyways, it will probably be perfectly carbonated, especially for a stout.
  23. "Gymrat" post=378939 said:I dont dry hop the whole time because I dont want to lose aroma through the air lock during active fermentation I didn't mean today, I meant when it's done fermenting. Just planning ahead.
  24. I've come up with a solution, I'm gonna rack it to my secondary and dry hop in that, then I can use the yeast cake without worrying. I'm excited about this actually, never pitched onto a yeast cake and the yeast is rockin and rolling hard right now. I'm expecting it to finish fermenting in 3-4 days so I'll have another IPA fermenting very shortly. :chug:
  25. "DetroitBrew" post=378926 said:Yeah all my beer is fermented at 64-70 degrees. Im about to start lager yeast shortly but just concerned on what to do right now. I guess just let it sit and cool, i ont know. I actualy have it chilling out right now in the fridge Yeah let it get down to like 64 if it's ale yeast. Lager yeast requires a much colder temp, I believe around 45 - 50F, but every strain is different so consult the yeast strain itself for the optimal temp range.
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