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RickBeer last won the day on March 14

RickBeer had the most liked content!

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About RickBeer

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    Brewing Guru

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    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
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    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. There are already two packets of LME and 1 packet of booster in this recipe. I might consider using two cans of the St. Patrick's Irish Stout, no LME, and no booster.
  2. Any strip will indicate the temperatures in the range. If the temperature is below or above the range, it usually indicates nothing. You can test this by simply putting the sticker in the refrigerator. I just tested my sticker on an empty LBK, hitting it with a hair dryer. Immediately showed nothing. Removed hair dryer, and the top temp (93) immediately showed up. Hair dryer again, nothing. This isn't rocket science. People lower temperatures by putting in frozen water bottles and rotating them out, and raise temperatures by putting in hot water bottles and rotating them out.
  3. Suspecting is not the way to brew beer. You can get a stick on thermometer at a store that sells aquariums, and you'll know. If it's in a cooler with the lid shut, there is no way it's that cold. Here's the Fermentis data sheet - https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/SafLager-S-23.pdf
  4. The manual I linked to should be your guide. The Brewer's Association has no agenda other than ensuring the brewing industry succeeds. That should be your bible. Whether you do everything to the extent they suggest or not, it's the ideal. As I said, I was told by long time brewers that kegged that a certain faucet, specifically a Perlick with flow control, could not be disassembled, and had no need to be disassembled. Wrong on both counts.
  5. Many owners of kegging systems don't practice good sanitation. Proper cleaning of the lines is necessary, as well as regular disassembly of the entire faucet, clean and sanitize, then reassemble. I had some very experienced brewers tell me that a certain high end tap was not able to be disassembled. I then sent them a picture of it disassembled, and they were astonished... The manual that I posted a link to (and will again below), recommends cleaning the lines every 14 days. Among other things, each faucet should be rinsed with clean water at the end of the day and if you have faucet plugs they should be stored in a glass of sanitizer and then inserted into the faucet at the end of the day. 99/100 homebrewers don't do that, maybe 999/100. Page 54 talks about faucet hygiene, starting at page 55 it discusses system maintenance and cleaning, including replacement of plastic lines every 1 to 2 years. http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/DBQM17.pdf Keep in mind that a pub or brewery pours very often, which flushes lines and faucets. Homebrewers don't, which makes it even more necessary to focus on good sanitation. This is the main reason that I haven't switched to kegs. Between my wife and I, we don't consume enough beer to make it worth the effort to maintain a kegging system, not to mention the wasted beer that would result from cleaning the system properly on a regular basis. That's why I stick with bottling. That may change in retirement, coming soon, we'll see.
  6. If you properly cap on foam, it should be a long shelf life.
  7. No, you do not need a beer gun. Think of how a growler is filled. A piece of tubing is put on the tap, sits at the bottom of the growler, and fills from the bottom. Keep in mind, that's for something that is going to go flat in a few days. And, of course, the growler is full of oxygen, and that beer is going to oxidize soon. A beer gun allows you to purge the bottle of oxygen with a shot of CO2, then fill it. That's why it can last longer.
  8. S-04 is good for an English brown, but not for Caribou Slobbers. S-04 will leave some residual sweetness that S-05 would not. None of these suggestions - S04, S05, or Notty will really cause any issues.
  9. You can't go wrong with S-05, because it adds nothing to the beer. I made it with Nottingham one time, and enjoyed it, but went back to Windsor because that's what is recommended.
  10. Beyond being brown, they have little in common. Nut Brown is an English Brown Ale. Low malt flavor, low hop aroma, a little chocolate and nutty. Moose Drool is a chocolate, malty, sweet, brown.
  11. Right. Northern and Midwest are now again owned by a Private Equity company. They were owned by one prior to selling to AB-InBev.
  12. I have made this a few times, but I have never purchased anything from Northern Brewer. MooseDrool is what everyone is copying, by Montana's Big Sky Brewing. You can find clone recipes online.
  13. Just a tip - I find, as do others, that Windsor yeast is awful. Poor attenuation, and has horrible flocculation (beer is cloudy). I just did a clone of MooseDrool, and it's got crap floating all over despite being cold crashed. I'm going to look for something different in the future.
  14. Do a Google search and you'll find they aren't available in Canada.
  15. OP has noted that dots are not available in Canada...
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