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RickBeer last won the day on April 8

RickBeer had the most liked content!

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About RickBeer

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    Brewing Guru

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    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
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    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. Yeah, but no. You want to do some research on fusel alcohol and how it affects people.
  2. The can by itself is 3.1%. That cup of sugar you added ads 0.9, for a total of 4% ABV. No headaches from that. The lack of head retention is common with HME batches. Adding wheat LME/DME, or carapils will provide a good head.
  3. They need to go in the boil.
  4. No. Irrelevant what you use for priming. Use the least expensive, table sugar.
  5. Screwy provides instructions. There is nothing to import. You copy the updated database, then proceed to add an HME or build a recipe.
  6. Make sure you add the other file of data. That has all the Mr. Beer refills, under Mr. Beer / Coopers.
  7. Or you could use QBrew and see what your intended changes are going to yield. It's a great way for brewers to play "what if" scenarios for planned brewing. Otherwise, you're guessing. Also, keep in mind, you will have doubled the cost to make the beer. American Porter - 2.13 gallons, per QBrew, yields 3.1% ABV with IBU of 41 and SRM of 21. Change to 1 gallon yields 6.5% ABV, IBU of 63, and SRM of 36.
  8. If you brew a regular can of Mr. Beer with the specified amount of water, you would end up with roughly 3.1 ABV. If you put more water than specified in the LBK, you will end up with a lower ABV and impact the flavor profile. If you brew with just LME or DME, and no hops (can of HME is LME and hops), you will end with no beer (by definition), and the result will spoil because hops are the preservative. You can download QBrew, plus the update, from here - http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/2010/09/qbrew-homebrewers-recipe-calculator.html. You can then put in the specific can (follow the directions including how a can of Mr. Beer gets entered in the HOPS section, and to do that first). Once you have the can entered and specify a 2.13 gallon batch, change the batch size to 1 gallon and see what changes. In short, it will be more hoppy, more malty, higher ABV, and not as intended or even close to as intended.
  9. I agree. He states that his 4th edition is out - 2017 - but doesn't state how old his online version is. He should add that to his home page.
  10. The Mr. Beer packet is the size it is because no more yeast is needed for a 2.13 gallon batch. A full packet of S-05 is for a 5 gallon batch. Reading Palmer's book is great. However, the free online version was published in 2000, but he started it in 1995 and finally self-published the print copy. It's over 20 years old. The 4th edition was released in 2017 (3rd edition was in 2006), and contains quite a few updates. You can buy it on Amazon or get it from your local library. Changes from the 3rd to the 4th edition, per Palmer - 200 more pages, 5 new chapters, and more pictures and diagrams than every before. Imagine the changes from the first to the third editions. In a 2010 interview, Palmer said - "Stop getting the thing off the internet." referring to the first edition years after the 3rd edition was printed. It's a great source of info, but does contain several no longer popular "rules". I have read a few books, most from the library.
  11. Beer is never poisonous. They are fine. 2 years later still drinkable...
  12. Or you have an infection. How long did you ferment for? What temp was the wort?
  13. Brewing requires patience. Build that pipeline!
  14. No difference in products. We recommend 3-4. 3 weeks fermenting, ideally with wort temp of around 65, followed by 4 weeks in bottles carbonating and conditioning at 70 or higher. Then 3 days in the fridge for what you are ready to drink, leaving the rest to continue to condition. You could go 14 days, then take hydrometer readings 24 hours apart. The full 21 days ensures the yeast has time to cleanup, which you cannot measure with a hydrometer.
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