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RickBeer last won the day on April 8

RickBeer had the most liked content!

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About RickBeer

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    Brewing Guru

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    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
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    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. Beyond a few true lager recipes, Mr. Beer isn't going to have recipes specifying temp ranges that require additional equipment. They do sell some additional equipment, but no beginning brewer is going to do that.
  2. Haven't looked at the recipe. but don't add the fruit at the beginning. Ferment at 62 (you can see the range if you Google S-04), because WHEN you add the fruit it will be very active. A week in, puree the fruit in a sanitized blender, remove the lid carefully, gently pour in, and replace the lid. It will then kick into high gear again.
  3. The LBK can hold 2.5 gallons. If you have an active fermentation, it will likely overflow some. For example, Nottingham yeast with 2.5 gallons will likely overflow unless on the low end of the temp range.
  4. The reality is that this forum has very little activity. Haven't counted, but if there's 20 people posting I'd be surprised. Facebook is more commonly used than forums like this, but it's not the place for support IMO, but I don't run Mr. Beer. Homebrewing stores are closing. Beer business isn't what it was. Mr. Beer has to be hurting compared to a few years ago. Just my guess.
  5. Both have apparently left Mr. Beer. I'm never going to join a Mr. Beer FB group. I barely use FB, mostly for my HOA association and a few relatives. I rarely post to it, more see what relatives post. FB is not anonymous, this forum is.
  6. Dry hopping has a huge impact on hop aroma, vs. flavor. Of course our sense of smell does impact our sense of taste.
  7. SInce you mentioned "cheating", let me reinforce that one of the key qualities of a successful homebrewer is PATIENCE. Making beer takes time. Cutting corners rarely saves time, especially without increasing risk of crappy product. Sure, you can turn a 5 hour brew day into a 4:48 minute brew day, but you're not going to make it a 3 hour brew day. The more you move fermented beer around, the higher the risk that you screw it up.
  8. And air is bad. Oxidation ruins beer.
  9. I have one of these (just remembered). The 1/2" OD hose is too big to fit inside it. And too small to fit on the outside. A standard bottling wand fits inside it, which is 5/16" OD. Therefore, a hose that is 5/16" OD should work.
  10. Thanks. Take a look at the links in my signature if you haven't already. That's a question fraught with danger, because there are at least 4 Mr. Beer LBK spigots in existence. The "oldest" Mr. Beer LBKs used a hose that slipped OVER the spigot, and that hose then slipped over the bottling wand. Mr. Beer ships their bottling wands with a small piece of hose for that purpose. The next version of the spigot the bottling wand went up into the spigot, so no hose was needed. I have no idea what the newest version of the spigot uses. You've got 3 options: 1) When you next empty the LBK, remove the spigot (which should be removed and disassembled, then cleaned, each batch anyway), and take it to the store and see what fits best. 2) Call Mr. Beer Customer Service M - F. 3) See if you can identify which spigot you have and have another customer tell you what they use. I have the spigots which are white, swivel side to side, and the hose goes over the spigot. That hose is 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD.
  11. An extra week does help. That's going from 2 to 3 weeks. Week 3 is the extra week. Follow the 3-4 rule. 3 weeks fermentation (ideally 65 degree wort temp) followed by 4 weeks in bottles (ideally 70 or a bit higher), followed by at least 3 days in the fridge for the beer you will drink in 3 days. DME is stronger than LME, because the water is removed. The ratio is: 1 pound of LME = 0.8 pounds of DME. 1 pounds of DME = 1.25 pounds of LME Adding 1 pound of LME is the max I would do, that's why I said 3/4 pound. 1/2 would be fine also. The lighter the beer, the more noticeable the addition is.
  12. Zero reason to ferment 4 weeks. Adding a cup of sugar dries out the beer as you noted. Add it the next day is not something I would have done. No reason to use S-05 instead of Mr. Beer yeast. A pound of DME is pushing the high side. I might go with 3/4 pound and NO SUGAR.
  13. Simple answer. You can't. Can you turn a 2 gallon HME recipe into a 3 gallon batch? Yes. Can you do that without changing the flavor profile? No. Adding LME /DME and hops will allow you to brew a 3 gallon batch with the same ABV if you figure it out. What it will not have is the same malt profile, the same hop profile, therefore it will not have the same flavor or aroma. Since you don't know what hops Mr. Beer uses, and can't replicate what's in the can, you can't up it by 50% and make the same. Will it be good? Possibly? But it won't be the same. You can also fit a max of 2.5 gallons in a Mr. Beer LBK. In reality, you'll get out about 2.25 gallons of usable beer at best, and that's with cold crashing. On a similar note, find any commercial beer you like. Now, you want to make it via Mr. Beer's HME recipes. Not possible. None of the Mr. Beer cans will replicate a commercial beer. HOWEVER, you can look for clone recipes of commercial beers, ones that are made with LME/DME and hops, and configure a 2.5 gallon recipe to maximize a Mr. Beer LBK. Or you can use a bigger fermenter...
  14. There's a thing called Darwin's Law... Applies to homebrewing also. 😉
  15. You shake the fermenter to mix the solution. THEN you put in your utensils. If someone shakes it with the utensils inside, they're probably not long for this hobby... Scratches are very bad.
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