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RickBeer

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RickBeer last won the day on September 23

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About RickBeer

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    Brewing Guru

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    Male
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    Ann Arbor, Michigan (GO BLUE!)
  • Interests
    Brewing 5 gallon extract recipes, skiing, my family, U of Michigan.

    I enjoy answering questions on forums and paying it forward. Please ask on the forum - not in PMs.

    Also, I don't accept Friend requests, they really serve no purpose on the forum. If you participate on the forum, consider yourself a friend :).

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  1. http://brulosophy.com/2015/06/01/safale-us-05-vs-danstar-bry-97-exbeeriment-results/
  2. Sugar is sugar. Honey, brown sugar, white sugar. The more sugar you added, the drier the beer.
  3. There is no reason to start that warm. 64-72 range. https://wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/british-ale Downloading QBrew will allow you to see the impact of adding two pounds of sugar to your recipe. This will be a very dry beer
  4. Note it must be POWDERED peanut butter. Peanut butter has fat in it and the beer will spoil. I would not do the powdered sugar at all. And no, you can't add it in after. It would be giving the yeast food, and activity would go crazy. If it was in bottles, they would explode.
  5. That would be a reason to despair. Of course, if one was a Buckeye, that would be a reason to commit suicide. Of course, I'd have to take time out from my pizza deliveries if I was a Buckeye. Spartans deliver subs...
  6. Very malty and apricoty... Nope, watery and weak. A crappy batch of beer is nothing compared to what many are experiencing today. Not a big deal, just some grain and a can of apricots.
  7. I've been on this forum since 2012. First batch was mid-year, and I've been brewing since. Over 300 gallons brewed in over 130 batches. Yet, I still screw up... Evidence of that sits in front of me, a glass of uncarbonated Apricot Wheat with a 3.3% ABV. I brewed at the end of January, had some surgery, and then brewed at the end of February. Then, with Covid-19, I didn't think about brewing again until May, and didn't actually brew until late June. I do BIAB, and buy my grains locally from a place that is also on the web. During the pandemic, they closed to retail customers, so I waited. And waited. Then I noticed they had raised their prices significantly, whereas other online stores had not. As I contemplated buying when they were about to reopen, I priced out what I wanted there, plus at a few other places, and realized I could buy significantly more grain at MoreBeer. So I placed my order, and then began the travesty that is this batch. Because I do BIAB, I can mill the crap out of my grains with no impact. So I stuck a few cups in a blender, and had at it. However, I neglected to actually look at the results, i.e. pour them in a bowl and look at whether I had cracked every grain. Something in my head wrongly said "don't over grind". Wrong. That batch came in with an OG of 1.030 instead of 1.050. Yikes. Of course genius doesn't have any DME, so I let it ferment, my wife likes low ABV beer. When I added the apricots, I noticed a few chunks. Today, when bottling, those chunks clogged things up, and 3 bottles had to be done via the spigot directly, and at least 2 bottles were left in the LBK when the spigot clogged, which is why I am now drinking an uncarbonated, low alcohol, apricot beer at 9:30AM. I have since brewed an Oberon clone, a Two-Hearted clone, and another batch of Apricot Wheat, and all were pulverized. And I hit my numbers on each batch. Morale of the story - when you skip months of brewing, go back to your process, and if you have a new thing to understand, don't ruin a batch learning.
  8. I don't understand the turning around. You want the spigot elevated up for both fermenting and cold crashing. This flows the trub away from the spigot, and when you cold crash it stays there.
  9. No. But once you cool and transfer to a fermenter, it needs to be out of the light.
  10. No, because what skunks beer is the HOPS. Wort has no hops. Once you add the hops, you need to avoid UV light as much as possible. If you took a batch of beer that was ready to ferment, and exposed it to sunlight, you ruin it quickly.
  11. Yup. A huge number left in the the summer of 2013. Many went to another forum, but that died off and has probably 1/2 dozen active participants out of nearly 1,000 members. Many also left brewing totally - this hobby has a huge dropout rate, and that was before craft beer really impacted it, dramatically increasing the dropout rate. That's why homebrew stores are hurting.
  12. There are already two packets of LME and 1 packet of booster in this recipe. I might consider using two cans of the St. Patrick's Irish Stout, no LME, and no booster.
  13. Any strip will indicate the temperatures in the range. If the temperature is below or above the range, it usually indicates nothing. You can test this by simply putting the sticker in the refrigerator. I just tested my sticker on an empty LBK, hitting it with a hair dryer. Immediately showed nothing. Removed hair dryer, and the top temp (93) immediately showed up. Hair dryer again, nothing. This isn't rocket science. People lower temperatures by putting in frozen water bottles and rotating them out, and raise temperatures by putting in hot water bottles and rotating them out.
  14. Suspecting is not the way to brew beer. You can get a stick on thermometer at a store that sells aquariums, and you'll know. If it's in a cooler with the lid shut, there is no way it's that cold. Here's the Fermentis data sheet - https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/SafLager-S-23.pdf
  15. The manual I linked to should be your guide. The Brewer's Association has no agenda other than ensuring the brewing industry succeeds. That should be your bible. Whether you do everything to the extent they suggest or not, it's the ideal. As I said, I was told by long time brewers that kegged that a certain faucet, specifically a Perlick with flow control, could not be disassembled, and had no need to be disassembled. Wrong on both counts.
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