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RickBeer

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Everything posted by RickBeer

  1. There are already two packets of LME and 1 packet of booster in this recipe. I might consider using two cans of the St. Patrick's Irish Stout, no LME, and no booster.
  2. Any strip will indicate the temperatures in the range. If the temperature is below or above the range, it usually indicates nothing. You can test this by simply putting the sticker in the refrigerator. I just tested my sticker on an empty LBK, hitting it with a hair dryer. Immediately showed nothing. Removed hair dryer, and the top temp (93) immediately showed up. Hair dryer again, nothing. This isn't rocket science. People lower temperatures by putting in frozen water bottles and rotating them out, and raise temperatures by putting in hot water bottles and rotating them out.
  3. Suspecting is not the way to brew beer. You can get a stick on thermometer at a store that sells aquariums, and you'll know. If it's in a cooler with the lid shut, there is no way it's that cold. Here's the Fermentis data sheet - https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/SafLager-S-23.pdf
  4. The manual I linked to should be your guide. The Brewer's Association has no agenda other than ensuring the brewing industry succeeds. That should be your bible. Whether you do everything to the extent they suggest or not, it's the ideal. As I said, I was told by long time brewers that kegged that a certain faucet, specifically a Perlick with flow control, could not be disassembled, and had no need to be disassembled. Wrong on both counts.
  5. Many owners of kegging systems don't practice good sanitation. Proper cleaning of the lines is necessary, as well as regular disassembly of the entire faucet, clean and sanitize, then reassemble. I had some very experienced brewers tell me that a certain high end tap was not able to be disassembled. I then sent them a picture of it disassembled, and they were astonished... The manual that I posted a link to (and will again below), recommends cleaning the lines every 14 days. Among other things, each faucet should be rinsed with clean water at the end of the day and if you have faucet plugs they should be stored in a glass of sanitizer and then inserted into the faucet at the end of the day. 99/100 homebrewers don't do that, maybe 999/100. Page 54 talks about faucet hygiene, starting at page 55 it discusses system maintenance and cleaning, including replacement of plastic lines every 1 to 2 years. http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/DBQM17.pdf Keep in mind that a pub or brewery pours very often, which flushes lines and faucets. Homebrewers don't, which makes it even more necessary to focus on good sanitation. This is the main reason that I haven't switched to kegs. Between my wife and I, we don't consume enough beer to make it worth the effort to maintain a kegging system, not to mention the wasted beer that would result from cleaning the system properly on a regular basis. That's why I stick with bottling. That may change in retirement, coming soon, we'll see.
  6. If you properly cap on foam, it should be a long shelf life.
  7. No, you do not need a beer gun. Think of how a growler is filled. A piece of tubing is put on the tap, sits at the bottom of the growler, and fills from the bottom. Keep in mind, that's for something that is going to go flat in a few days. And, of course, the growler is full of oxygen, and that beer is going to oxidize soon. A beer gun allows you to purge the bottle of oxygen with a shot of CO2, then fill it. That's why it can last longer.
  8. S-04 is good for an English brown, but not for Caribou Slobbers. S-04 will leave some residual sweetness that S-05 would not. None of these suggestions - S04, S05, or Notty will really cause any issues.
  9. You can't go wrong with S-05, because it adds nothing to the beer. I made it with Nottingham one time, and enjoyed it, but went back to Windsor because that's what is recommended.
  10. Beyond being brown, they have little in common. Nut Brown is an English Brown Ale. Low malt flavor, low hop aroma, a little chocolate and nutty. Moose Drool is a chocolate, malty, sweet, brown.
  11. Right. Northern and Midwest are now again owned by a Private Equity company. They were owned by one prior to selling to AB-InBev.
  12. I have made this a few times, but I have never purchased anything from Northern Brewer. MooseDrool is what everyone is copying, by Montana's Big Sky Brewing. You can find clone recipes online.
  13. Just a tip - I find, as do others, that Windsor yeast is awful. Poor attenuation, and has horrible flocculation (beer is cloudy). I just did a clone of MooseDrool, and it's got crap floating all over despite being cold crashed. I'm going to look for something different in the future.
  14. Do a Google search and you'll find they aren't available in Canada.
  15. OP has noted that dots are not available in Canada...
  16. Admins? We don't need no stinkin' admins!
  17. As long as it's sanitizer with a shelf life like StarSan. Mr. Beer sanitizer should not be stored for more than one week in a bottle. I wouldn't worry about a freshly washed measuring spoon, and you do not sanitize the vanilla.
  18. I would say that the Mr. Beer yeast that came with the can is fine to use.
  19. I'd suggest that in the future you sit down and plan what you want to do. For example, brew a 2.5 gallon batch in an LBK (which will hold 2.5 gallons just fine). Or a 2 gallon batch. Then find a recipe that you like online (there are thousands of extract recipes), convert it to the size you're going to brew, come up with a list of ingredients, and then go buy the ingredients (or order online). I come up with my recipes and the list of ingredients, and because my store is online also I cost them out. I then go and pull my grains for recipe #1, crush them, and seal the bag, labeling it. Then I go do #2. And so on. When I check out, if the bill is different I have them review what they entered wrong... Just buying stuff while at a store is backwards.
  20. So here's a reinforcement of this principle. Last week I tested my Apricot Wheat FG, a week after adding the 2nd can of apricots. It was right on. So I cold crashed it. And, apparently forgot to write down the reading, or the temperature. Not a big deal, I know it was in the 1.012 - 1.014 range, and would have been 64 degrees. But, this reinforces WRITING EVERYTHING DOWN.
  21. Me too. Except we rinse good, then fill with water UNTIL we are ready to wash at the end of the day. More efficient than washing 1 at a time, and nothing dries in bottle.
  22. Write down everything. Write down everything. Write down everything. 😀
  23. I find this easy to use - http://www.biabcalculator.com/ I found my rates different. Instead of 1.25 gallons per hour boiloff, I get 0.7, probably due to my stove not being as hot as a big propane flame. I also find my grain absorption to be different, instead of .045 gallons per pound, I use .075 gallons per pound. Of course, without exact measurements one doesn't know whether it's boil off, or absorption, but I seem to now routinely get 3.45 gallons pre-boil and around 2.6 - 2.75 gallons post boil, with 2.5 gallons going into the LBK. I found I needed to double crush my grains, and change QBrew's efficiency from 75% to 65%. I don't sparge at all, but I do squeeze.
  24. Like it should, because the yeast are eating the sugar as they are supposed to.
  25. Winner, winner, chicken dinner. There should be no difference in carbonation regardless of what you use (except for cost or ease of use) between table sugar, carbonation drops, sugar dots, sugar cubes, honey, LME, ... HOWEVER, time after time people post that the carbonation drops yield less carbonation. And people have done side by side tests. Conclusion - they don't contain the amount of sugar they say they do. People also fail to take into account how much residual carbonation may be left in the wort before bottling. The reality is most newer brewers don't carb by style. A British ale has much less carbonation than a German Weizen for example. Could be as much as little as 1/3rd the carbonation, or up to 1/2 the carbonation. I for one use table sugar and batch prime. I do NOT measure my final wort available (most don't), I figure I have 2.5 gallons (320 oz), and put in between 50 and 65 grams of sugar, based on style. Most batches I get about 25 oz less wort, so that's 8% less wort, which means I'm going to get 8.5% more carbonation than I had planned. And, most people couldn't tell the difference between 2.0 and 2.3 or 2.5 volumes of CO2. And to conduct a test you'd need to have the right instruments to read the level of carbonation, which are quite expensive. It's called a Gehaltemeter, and costs around $1,500. Hooks to the brite tank at a brewery, which is the tank that fermented beer is stored in to carbonate, and then either serve or keg/bottle.
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