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RickBeer

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Everything posted by RickBeer

  1. If you read the cold crashing thread, that question is answered right at #1. 1) When your beer is ready to bottle (determined by waiting 3 weeks and or testing with a hydrometer and getting matching readings 48 hours apart), pick up the LBK.
  2. No. If you use an EXCESSIVE amount of yeast in a batch (that's not excessive), you run the risk that the yeast get lazy and don't do their job. Use it all, don't worry about it.
  3. Yes. The whole packet is designed for a 5 gallon batch. The amount of yeast in that packet is roughly 4x the amount in a Mr. Beer yeast packet. Therefore, you could easily use 1/2 of it and save the rest for another batch. PROBLEM - how to keep the yeast from being contaminated and ruining the next batch. So use the entire packet. 😀
  4. Welcome Darren. You'll want to leave the hop sack in the fermenter the entire time. One option, when you bottle, is to use a pair of sanitized tongs to quickly remove the hop sack, and then put the lid back on. A better option is to cold crash, after ensuring the hop sack is at the back of the LBK. See my post regarding cold crashing. Also, for best results, follow the 3-4 rule. 3 weeks in the fermenter, 4 weeks in bottles. When fermenting, ideally you don't want the beer to get warmer than the high 60s, mid 60s is better. After bottling, keep the bottles at 70 or low to mid 70s for 4 weeks, then refrigerate for at least 3 days before drinking. Again, read some of the posts listed in my signature.
  5. That is clearly more than Buckeyeitis. Yes, it's likely from using unpasteurized fruit. You can bottole it, and not pull any of that in, and take the steps you suggested. The worst you can is a bad tasting beer, which you won't drink. Or, you can toss it. In cleaning the LBK, I would follow these guidelines AFTER washing it. http://howtobrew.com/book/section-1/brewing-preperations/sanitation/sanitizing-your-equipment First, when you're done dumping or bottling, dump the rest out. Rinse with water repeatedly (not real hot water, water your hands can take). Then, use a wash cloth and some unscented dish soap and cover every surface. Rinse well repeatedly. Then, follow the sanitizing guidelines. For the spigot, make sure to put some of the cleaning water, and rinse water, through it. Then, after sanitizing the LBK and running some of the solution through the spigot, rinse everything and disassemble the spigot (not just into spigot, washer, and nut, but separate the two pieces of the spigot). Gently use a skinny bottle brush and gentle scrub inside with unscented dish soap, then rinse. I would have no problem using a bottling wand. After use, flush it, then disassemble and wash every piece. For your next batch, maybe a local Wolverine can supervise... BOOM!
  6. You should keep the bottles in 70 or higher temps for 4 weeks, not 2, to properly carbonate. If it tastes good, you may not have an infection. Opening the LBK doesn't introduce anything, CO2 pushes OUT, not in. Why would you throw out an LBK? Or why soak in bleach? Why not use the bottling wand? Why soak glass bottles in bleach? So many questions. Of course, it could be that it has Buckeye-itis, which is when a pizza delivery driver attempts to brew beer... HA!
  7. RickBeer

    Older grain

    It's fine. In fact, milled grain would also be fine if it was kept airtight and in a cool environment (most say 3 months at least). Unmilled grain will store for a year in sealed containers.
  8. http://brulosophy.com/2015/06/01/safale-us-05-vs-danstar-bry-97-exbeeriment-results/
  9. Sugar is sugar. Honey, brown sugar, white sugar. The more sugar you added, the drier the beer.
  10. There is no reason to start that warm. 64-72 range. https://wyeastlab.com/yeast-strain/british-ale Downloading QBrew will allow you to see the impact of adding two pounds of sugar to your recipe. This will be a very dry beer
  11. Note it must be POWDERED peanut butter. Peanut butter has fat in it and the beer will spoil. I would not do the powdered sugar at all. And no, you can't add it in after. It would be giving the yeast food, and activity would go crazy. If it was in bottles, they would explode.
  12. That would be a reason to despair. Of course, if one was a Buckeye, that would be a reason to commit suicide. Of course, I'd have to take time out from my pizza deliveries if I was a Buckeye. Spartans deliver subs...
  13. Very malty and apricoty... Nope, watery and weak. A crappy batch of beer is nothing compared to what many are experiencing today. Not a big deal, just some grain and a can of apricots.
  14. I've been on this forum since 2012. First batch was mid-year, and I've been brewing since. Over 300 gallons brewed in over 130 batches. Yet, I still screw up... Evidence of that sits in front of me, a glass of uncarbonated Apricot Wheat with a 3.3% ABV. I brewed at the end of January, had some surgery, and then brewed at the end of February. Then, with Covid-19, I didn't think about brewing again until May, and didn't actually brew until late June. I do BIAB, and buy my grains locally from a place that is also on the web. During the pandemic, they closed to retail customers, so I waited. And waited. Then I noticed they had raised their prices significantly, whereas other online stores had not. As I contemplated buying when they were about to reopen, I priced out what I wanted there, plus at a few other places, and realized I could buy significantly more grain at MoreBeer. So I placed my order, and then began the travesty that is this batch. Because I do BIAB, I can mill the crap out of my grains with no impact. So I stuck a few cups in a blender, and had at it. However, I neglected to actually look at the results, i.e. pour them in a bowl and look at whether I had cracked every grain. Something in my head wrongly said "don't over grind". Wrong. That batch came in with an OG of 1.030 instead of 1.050. Yikes. Of course genius doesn't have any DME, so I let it ferment, my wife likes low ABV beer. When I added the apricots, I noticed a few chunks. Today, when bottling, those chunks clogged things up, and 3 bottles had to be done via the spigot directly, and at least 2 bottles were left in the LBK when the spigot clogged, which is why I am now drinking an uncarbonated, low alcohol, apricot beer at 9:30AM. I have since brewed an Oberon clone, a Two-Hearted clone, and another batch of Apricot Wheat, and all were pulverized. And I hit my numbers on each batch. Morale of the story - when you skip months of brewing, go back to your process, and if you have a new thing to understand, don't ruin a batch learning.
  15. I don't understand the turning around. You want the spigot elevated up for both fermenting and cold crashing. This flows the trub away from the spigot, and when you cold crash it stays there.
  16. No. But once you cool and transfer to a fermenter, it needs to be out of the light.
  17. No, because what skunks beer is the HOPS. Wort has no hops. Once you add the hops, you need to avoid UV light as much as possible. If you took a batch of beer that was ready to ferment, and exposed it to sunlight, you ruin it quickly.
  18. Yup. A huge number left in the the summer of 2013. Many went to another forum, but that died off and has probably 1/2 dozen active participants out of nearly 1,000 members. Many also left brewing totally - this hobby has a huge dropout rate, and that was before craft beer really impacted it, dramatically increasing the dropout rate. That's why homebrew stores are hurting.
  19. There are already two packets of LME and 1 packet of booster in this recipe. I might consider using two cans of the St. Patrick's Irish Stout, no LME, and no booster.
  20. Any strip will indicate the temperatures in the range. If the temperature is below or above the range, it usually indicates nothing. You can test this by simply putting the sticker in the refrigerator. I just tested my sticker on an empty LBK, hitting it with a hair dryer. Immediately showed nothing. Removed hair dryer, and the top temp (93) immediately showed up. Hair dryer again, nothing. This isn't rocket science. People lower temperatures by putting in frozen water bottles and rotating them out, and raise temperatures by putting in hot water bottles and rotating them out.
  21. Suspecting is not the way to brew beer. You can get a stick on thermometer at a store that sells aquariums, and you'll know. If it's in a cooler with the lid shut, there is no way it's that cold. Here's the Fermentis data sheet - https://fermentis.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/SafLager-S-23.pdf
  22. The manual I linked to should be your guide. The Brewer's Association has no agenda other than ensuring the brewing industry succeeds. That should be your bible. Whether you do everything to the extent they suggest or not, it's the ideal. As I said, I was told by long time brewers that kegged that a certain faucet, specifically a Perlick with flow control, could not be disassembled, and had no need to be disassembled. Wrong on both counts.
  23. Many owners of kegging systems don't practice good sanitation. Proper cleaning of the lines is necessary, as well as regular disassembly of the entire faucet, clean and sanitize, then reassemble. I had some very experienced brewers tell me that a certain high end tap was not able to be disassembled. I then sent them a picture of it disassembled, and they were astonished... The manual that I posted a link to (and will again below), recommends cleaning the lines every 14 days. Among other things, each faucet should be rinsed with clean water at the end of the day and if you have faucet plugs they should be stored in a glass of sanitizer and then inserted into the faucet at the end of the day. 99/100 homebrewers don't do that, maybe 999/100. Page 54 talks about faucet hygiene, starting at page 55 it discusses system maintenance and cleaning, including replacement of plastic lines every 1 to 2 years. http://www.draughtquality.org/wp-content/uploads/DBQM17.pdf Keep in mind that a pub or brewery pours very often, which flushes lines and faucets. Homebrewers don't, which makes it even more necessary to focus on good sanitation. This is the main reason that I haven't switched to kegs. Between my wife and I, we don't consume enough beer to make it worth the effort to maintain a kegging system, not to mention the wasted beer that would result from cleaning the system properly on a regular basis. That's why I stick with bottling. That may change in retirement, coming soon, we'll see.
  24. If you properly cap on foam, it should be a long shelf life.
  25. No, you do not need a beer gun. Think of how a growler is filled. A piece of tubing is put on the tap, sits at the bottom of the growler, and fills from the bottom. Keep in mind, that's for something that is going to go flat in a few days. And, of course, the growler is full of oxygen, and that beer is going to oxidize soon. A beer gun allows you to purge the bottle of oxygen with a shot of CO2, then fill it. That's why it can last longer.
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