Jump to content
Mr.Beer Community

teutonic terror

Community Members
  • Content Count

    1,315
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About teutonic terror

  • Rank
    Brewmaster

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Air circulation is not that crucial. If you are wicking the water up over the LBK's you will have a good deal of evaporational cooling if you leave the cooler open The cooler will do the bulk of the work once you get the temp down. Most important is to make sure you change your cold packs out on a regular schedule. Try freezing some 12 or 16 oz water bottles to put in the voids between the LBKs. Check every 6-8 hours until you establish a schedule of how often you need to change your ice packs out. I would try the water bottles and leave the cooler closed once you get your temps under control. Good Luck!
  2. It could have been from the move and jostling them around a bit. I have had a small ring of krausen form in the tops of the bottles on a couple of batches of mine. No bottle bombs though!
  3. Sorry for the loss Spuckey! I had the bottom just pop right out of a 12 oz'r on me one night. Had the headphones on upstairs while bottling a batch and it sounded like somebody hit the outside door. I couldn't figure out what the sound I heard was until I went downstairs and saw beer running down the side of the cabinet! Never tipped over either! Azmark, I would almost bet that yours breaking of below the cap like that is stress from the wing capper. That's why I got rid of mine and bought a bench capper. I had one do that in three straight batches.
  4. Welcome jastew! Usually I use about a half a scoop in the empty LBK then fill with lukewarm water. Lukewarm water so the odors don't set in the plastic! Fill it all the way up and let it sit for a day or two. Empty it out then rinse with lukewarm water. If you have to scrub the inside use a micro fiber cloth and use it only for your LBKs. Oxi Clean Free doesn't leave a residue or any off odors if you rinse it well. I usually use Kroger's brand because it's a lot cheaper and works just as well! Good luck!
  5. Either will work fine, just be sure to spray it with sanitizer first!
  6. Either will work fine, just be sure to spray it with sanitizer first!
  7. Thanks Beer-lord! It's a procedure I've seen mentioned several times here and elsewhere that I've been wanting to try. My recipe isn't bad, but I'm looking for the aroma and flavor to have a definite "pop", if you know what I mean! Also, I'm in the tweaking and revamping mode because I'm dis-satisfied with my finished product lately. I'll give it a try for 30 minutes and if I'm not satisfied with the results, I can revert back to dry hopping!
  8. Finally gonna try the new forum out! I'm going to do a Nelson Sauvin SMaSH this coming Friday. This is a recipe I've been tweaking for a few months now and I think i have it close to where I want it. One thing I'm going to do different is steep the hops at flameout instead of dry hopping. I've never used this procedure and I have a few questions. I've done some reading on this and I've seen where some people add the hops after the wort has cooled below 180F. Is this necessary or can I add them after taking the wort off of the flame? Also, with BeerSmith they have an "Aroma" hop option on the recipe setup. I take this is the hops steep option. It also allows you to adjust the time for the steep. I think 60 minutes would be extreme, but I also think 10 minutes would not be enough time. Any experience or suggestions on time?
  9. Welcome to the forum Carlos! The sediment is normal for bottle conditioned beer. It is the small amount of yeast left in suspension falling out and clearing your beer. It is needed for proper carbonation. You can drink it in your beer if you like, myself, I pour and leave it in the bottle because I find it bitter! Enjoy the obsession!
  10. I've got a stainless 24" scale I use. I've set the measurements for all three of my brew pots by the most common volumes I use for strike water, mash water for BIAB and post boil volume! I do either 2.5 or 5 gallon batches! Sure does make it quicker to fill things up and estimates of batch size!
  11. I, like Dave, can only get specialty grains by the pound so I have to vacuum seal the leftovers. Vacuum sealing is the best IMHO. I do put mine in the beer fridge though mainly because my basement has been known to have a rodent occasionally! Haven't noticed any adverse effects.
  12. "Wings_Fan_In_KC" post=388998 said:I'd definitely use an auto siphon and racking cane to get the beer off the trub when it's ready to go into the bottling bucket without picking up too much of the pellet poo. (LOL at that!) What he said! I bottled a stout today that I had in secondary and only had a little dusting of yeast in bottom of the bucket.
  13. "Thanks to all of you, I'm now crazy." We're all a little off kilter, SO you're in the right place! I don't think anybody's first batch turned out Fantastic! I know mine was really bitter and green appley. Not quite the beer I was used to or expecting. That was before I met the BORG! You've done well with the additional equipment. Good luck with your future brews and listen to these guys, they're good! :cheers:
  14. "Jim Johnson" post=387743 said:won't you have to boil longer with the pilsner? not sure where you are i live in the south and cook outside (covered porch). not sure i'd could stand an additional 30 min outside. i'm fairly drippy after 60min. Yep Jim, right hear in, at the moment, steamy Virginia! I believe we slid down to the rainforest this summer. Hasn't quit raining and humid as hell! 95F on my covered patio at the moment and about 92F or so tomorrow. I don't mind the heat. I still tolerate it very well so the extra 30 mins is no problem! Thanks for the input guys! This is probably my finished product! BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com Recipe: Brown Pilsner Brewer: JohnEC Asst Brewer: Style: Specialty Beer TYPE: All Grain Taste: (30.0) Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Boil Size: 6.95 gal Post Boil Volume: 5.20 gal Batch Size (fermenter): 5.00 gal Bottling Volume: 5.00 gal Estimated OG: 1.047 SG Estimated Color: 6.2 SRM Estimated IBU: 18.4 IBUs Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 % Est Mash Efficiency: 72.0 % Boil Time: 60 Minutes Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 6 lbs Pilsen (Dingemans) (1.6 SRM) Grain 1 66.7 % 3 lbs Munich 10L (Briess) (10.0 SRM) Grain 2 33.3 % 0.25 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4.20 %] - First Hop 3 5.0 IBUs 0.75 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4.20 %] - Boil Hop 4 8.3 IBUs 0.75 oz Hallertauer Hersbrucker [4.20 %] - Boil Hop 5 5.0 IBUs 1.0 pkg Nottingham (Danstar #-) [23.66 ml] Yeast 6 - Mash Schedule: Single Infusion, Medium Body, Batch Sparge Total Grain Weight: 9 lbs ---------------------------- Name Description Step Temperat Step Time Mash In Add 11.25 qt of water at 167.4 F 152.0 F 60 min Sparge: Batch sparge with 2 steps (1.74gal, 3.48gal) of 168.0 F water Notes: ------ Created with BeerSmith 2 - http://www.beersmith.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Looking forward to a little different tasting beer! Thanks again! :cheers: :cheers:
  15. I ordered some hops last week that still aren't here. So, I need something to brew. I've got 8 oz of Hersbrucker and I was thinking about 5 lbs of wheat malt, 4 lbs of Munich with a .25 oz FWH, .50 oz 20 min addition and .50 addition at 10 minutes. Gonna use Nottingham yeast. Also considered 5 lbs of pilsner rather than wheat. Sorry this looks like this, using my phone without BeerSmith. Input is welcome! Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...