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About jaydubwill

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    Brewmaster in Training
  1. Pensacola here. I started out with the cooler and ice bottles also before springing for a chest freezer and Johnson temp controller. Another method is to use in the spring before the temps skyrocket is to put the LBK in a shallow pan filled with water. Drape a towel over it with the ends in the water and the whicking/evaporation will keep the lbk a few degrees cooler than the room it's in. A fan can help in the process.
  2. wow, 100+ views and only a few replies. For starters, kick the booster, honey and sugar to the curb and use dried or liquid malt extract. They sell an unhopped malt extract right here on the Mr. B website as well. This will increase ABV by adding more fermentable sugar from malt, the basic building block of all beers. It eliminates the undesirable side-effects of the adjunct sugars like being cidery as you noticed. That should condition out with time by the way. I would leave them for another month at room temp, pop it into the fridge for 4~5 days then try it again. I've had beers take months to condition out to something drinkable. I once added six pounds of fresh chopped peaches to a 2 1/2 gal. Mr. B. wheat beer. It tasted good...after 6 months.
  3. Chris, Just like Oly said, the 90 minute boil would be to drive off any DMS from the Pilsner malt. No need for a 90 minute mash. Full conversion will probable take place after 40 minutes; 60 for sure. You can always check using the iodine test. Drip a few drops of the wort into a plate with iodine. If it turns black it isn't fully converted. If there is no change or gets lighter, then your good. Getting back to the 90 minute boil, I was listening to a pod cast of The Jamil Show (Jamil Zainasheff), and he said he no longer does a 90 minute boil even with pilsner malt and never had a problem with DMS. Just leave the lid off when boiling and it evaporates fairly quickly. I just did an all grain Altbier followed by a Kölsch, both of which use a lot of pilsner malt, using only a 60 minute boil and I didn't taste anything off. Now to talk about something else important is the temperature at which you mash the steeping grains. Generally the lower the temperature the more fermentable and thinner the beer will be, but since you are steeping primarily for added body and mouthfeel, I would probably go with 154~155F. or even a two step mini mash starting at 151 for 30 minutes then bringing the temp up to 155 for 30 minutes. Of course if the recipe states a particular temp, go with that. One last thing to think about is the mash thickness. The general rule of thumb is 1.25 quarts of water per lb of grain. Sorry, I know it's a lot to think about.
  4. "BlackDuck" post=284799 said:For all those of you that use whirlfloc tablets....the dosage is one tablet for 5 to 10 gallons. Can one tablet be cut in half and be a sufficient amount for the LBK?? Yes, they are a little crumbly but not terrible so, if that makes sense.
  5. I'm drinking the Mr. B Oktoberfest now. I brewed it straight up with the booster. Its got a nice dark red color to it but also a significant twang. If I were to do this one over I would drop the booster and use a second can of OVL instead.
  6. "Duff" post=284604 said:If you put something like a CD jewel case under the front of the LBK it can help keep trub away from the spigot and improving the clarity. "T8r Salad" post=284594 said:Please advise Borg experts: I was told to only use Irish Moss when doing an All-grain brewing and not for pm or extract brewing. Where is the truth here? TIA I would doubt that is true. I have been going through the BYO Hop Lover's Guide and all their extract with steeping grain recipes seem to have irish moss. I use both whirlfloc and cold crashing and get pretty clear beers. The whirlfloc, which is concentrated irish moss, coagulates the break material so it would be of limited use for extract brews that already have minimal hot or cold break material (protein). For extract brews I would look into gelatin first, then isinglass to help drop yeast, hop particles and protein floaties out of suspension. And don't forget to leave the last ounce or so of beer in the bottle or you'll end up pouring all the yeast into your glass.
  7. Reading some quick reviews say this beer is already overly hopped but has a nice citrus flavor. The directions for this says it makes 6 U.S. gallons, so not knowing how it tastes first hand id probably brew it up as is and split it between two lbks. It might be interesting to use two different yeasts if you want to do a little bit of experimenting,
  8. I don't know if it's the Florida humidity or sunshine, but I had a similar problem when I starting bottling. It turned out I simply wasn't using enough priming sugar, even though I was using the calculators trying to figure out residual CO2 levels and all that. It looks like you are using about 13 teaspoons for eight 1-liter bottles. From reading your post they've only been in the bottle for 1 week? Give it another week or two then pop one in the fridge for a couple days. For me, I increased my priming sugar (also using corn sugar) to 16 teaspoons (2/bottle) and it's worked like a charm. As far as opening up the bottle and adding a little more sugar and/or fresh yeast, I tried it and it didn't work. I eventually borrowed a friends corny keg and CO2 bottle and force carbed my first three batches.
  9. One of the aspects I enjoy most about beer is that it can take a lifetime to learn about it but just a sip to reap the rewards. I would start by browsing through the BJCP guidelines and try to pick out some commercial beers you may have drank. They have style examples listed at the bottom of the sections. I usually pick up a six pack or three every month and try to get beers I haven't tried before. While drinking one I'll read-up about the style on the BJCP site, and about the beer itself at beer advocate, and usually the company's website.
  10. but if you do want to brew within style then check out the BJCP guidlines. In Qbrew simply change the style pulldown menu to whatever style your brewing up. Keep in mind all this does is change min and max recommendations for gravity, bitterness, and color. Should you be looking for a book, check out Brewing Classic Styles: 80 Winning Recipes Anyone Can Brew by Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer
  11. "genotype" post=270200 said:I find that if I scoop the box often, I can mostly avoid the cat urine lol, my cat just goes outside, thankfully. Let us know what you decide and how this turns out, I'm always interested in a good porter.
  12. "swenocha" post=270204 said: "jhnh1010" post=270183 said:I was thinking more along the lines of a beer your almost ashamed to tell your friends you like. :gofish: OK... OK... Though the other two are what I'm most likely to drink, I'll go with this one as the one that I'm surprised I like and on occasion have in my fridge: No lie... it's the best Pale American Lager out there... +1 Schlitz 1960 formula is some good macro. Poured cold in a pilsner glass this may be the best summer beer out there...incredible quaffable.
  13. "russki" post=256899 said: "jaydubwill" post=256867 said:Hey russki, how about an update? Have you bottled yet? Last week I racked mine to secondary at 40F for a month before bottling. I'm going 2-4-4 on my Helles, and even though I pitched at lager temps (51F) I still did a diacetyl rest at the end of the second week. What schedule are you doing? This one has been bottled for a while now - I do my lagering in the bottle rather than secondary. After carbing at room temp for 2 weeks, it's been in the fridge for about 10 days. I'm gonna give them another couple weeks before trying the first bottle.and?!?! I'm still a couple weeks away from trying my Helles, but am interested in how yours turned out.
  14. "TNT" post=269615 said: "jhnh1010" post=269569 said:I could not get mine to move at all still stuck at .020 I just don't understand why it stopped. Tasted my hydrometer sample and it tasted ok. I'm still very much a noob, so please don't take offense to my stupid question... take it with a grain of salt: Is it possible that the hydrometer was sitting on the bottom of the test tube and not completely floating? I only ask because I caught myself in that situation once. The hydrometer would spin freely, but it was just slightly touching bottom. I was a bit too worried about overflowing the test tube. Therefore, the reading would not change even after a couple days of testing. When I finally got a clue and noticed that it wasn't completely bouyant, it was a "lesson learned moment" for me. The beer was ready, I just didn't have enough sample volume for an accurate FG reading. I'm more conscious of it now. :blush: That could be a problem. I usually tap mine on the top to make sure I've got 1/4 ~ 1/2 inch or so of 'bob' to the hydrometer. Too much trub in the sample can also throw it off, as well as residual carbonation if bubbles are sticking on the bottom pushing it up. I'll let the sample sit for a few minutes then give it a spin to knock off any bubbles before taking a reading.
  15. Someone was theorizeing on a differnt post that the amount of unfermatables was higher in extracts as compared to all grain worts. I'm wondering if 1.020 for your 3+ lbs of LME was just all she could do. I was googling stuck at 1.020 and it seems really common for extract brewers to hit that wall.
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