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About NC4Runner

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  1. Yeah, that's what I'll do. And if they don't blow, then I should assume a lot longer conditioning to get that carbonation down?
  2. Well, they were bottled into bottles (mostly glass some plastic) so the beer's not in the LBK, but I get what you mean. I can try and put all those bottles in a garbage bag. I can't believe I did this. :/
  3. I did it this time. I batch primed by my Defibrilator Dopplebock with corn sugar last night. But I rushed it. I now realize that I used 12.5 tablespoons in 1 cup water, boiled, instead of 12.5 teaspoons. That comes out to 37.5 teaspoons. Are these things going to blow? Should I toss 'em? Anything I can do at this point?
  4. Thanks for the super quick replies! You guys rock. Now I can bottle the Defibrillator Dopplebock 7.0 with my mind at ease. :-)
  5. Hi - need a quick answer if possible since I"m about to bottle. First time using corn sugar in my batch priming. Do I boil it in 1 cup water first like I do with table sugar? Thanks!
  6. Hey all, I'm going to bottle two batches this weekend -- a straight up Defibrillator Doppelbock 7.0 and a straight up Wicked Monk. I've only used table sugar for my bottling so far and have been doing batch priming into a Slimline. Anyway, I recently got some corn sugar and wanted to get the Borg's thoughts/comments on my calculations of how much corn sugar to use in these two batches. I used Screwy's batch priming calculator at 70 degrees fermenting temp and 2.13 gal batch and here is what I came up with so far: Defibrillator Doppelbock 7.0: To figure out CO2 amount, I looked down the list and used "dopplebock" with a suggested CO2 of 2.26-2.62. I split the difference and got 2.44. Using this number in Screwy's calculator, I got 12.5 tsp. Wicked Monk: Wasn't sure what kind of beer to use for this but I went with a German-style Weizen (Weissbier) since the recipe has 2 cans of the old Witty Monk Witbier HME. In Screwy's list, the German-style Weizen (Weissbier) has a CO2 of 3.6-4.48. Again, splitting the difference I came up with 4.04. Using this number in Screwy's calculator I got 25 tsp. So: Defibrillator Doppelbock 7.0: 12.5 tsp Wicked Monk: 25 tsp How do both of those look?
  7. I bottled this last night. I had ended up tossing in 0.25oz Cascade dry hops about 2 weeks into fermentation. Total fermentation was about 3 weeks in all. Anyway, as I mentioned above, my OG was 1.056 and my FG was 1.008 which gives me a 6.8% ABV. I tasted my sample and it was good - much more hoppy than straight up ADIPA. Pretty smooth, actually. I think the UME helped out with the mouthfeel. I imagine the Safale US-05 probably helped too -- there was a lot more trub than my other batches using the fromunda yeast. I look forward to tasting it in a few weeks! Now, to brew up my Difibrilator Dopplebock and my Bombay Bliss IPA. Then, I'll start experimenting with all the stuff I got on sale from Sears and Bargain Outfitters!
  8. Congrats on your first brew! I'm pretty new at this too (have 6 batches in various stages) and I can definitely say that it tastes much better with time. My first batch was very cidery after 12 days in the bottle. After 24, it was totally different. Welcome aboard!
  9. Thanks for all the feedback! I'll definitely post back my results in a few weeks. I'm thinking about adding some dry hops about a week into the fermentation, but can't decide which hop to use. Maybe some more Cascade since those seem to be the hops in many of the IPAs that I like. I agree that straight up ADIPA is not very hoppy - at least not for my taste. I like Dogfishhead 60 and 90 minute IPAs and also Stone's IPA so the more hops the better! :-)
  10. Well, I brewed this one tonight so we'll see how it goes. Based on the recipe, I had hoped to have an OG of 1.061 but ended up around 1.056, probably due to the UME loss during the boil. I had added about 1/2 can of the Mellow Amber UME to 8 cups water at start of boil and ended up at the end with probably 3 cups left. Used Safale US-05 dry ale yeast all 11.5 grams. Looking forward to tasting it!
  11. Okay, so this is a pretty minor tweak to ADIPA but I wanted to get the Borg's thoughts. I like really, really, hoppy brews. I've got 2 cans of the ADIPA and one can of the Mr. Beer UME Mellow Amber. You'll see several hops in the recipe. I also have some Galena hops but they aren't used in the recipe. Let me know if you think I should substitue the Galena for something else. Thanks in advance! North State IPA --------------- Brewer: Me Style: American IPA Batch: 2.13 galExtract Characteristics --------------- Recipe Gravity: 1.061 OG Recipe Bitterness: 75 IBU Recipe Color: 12° SRM Estimated FG: 1.015 Alcohol by Volume: 5.9% Alcohol by Weight: 4.6% Ingredients ----------- MrB. American Devil IPA 2.42 lb, Extract, Extract MrB. Mellow Amber UME 1.20 lb, Extract, Extract Cascade 1.00 oz, Pellet, 20 minutes Centennial 0.50 oz, Pellet, 60 minutes Mt. Hood 1.00 oz, Pellet, 7 minutes Safale US-05 Dry Ale Yeast 1.00 unit, Yeast, American: Temperature Range: 59°-75° F 11.5 GRAMS Notes ----- Recipe Notes: Batch Notes:
  12. I was at my LHBS (American Brewmaster) and they appear to have DME called "British Spraymalt" like British Amber, British Light etc. Here is the DME's on their website: http://www.americanbrewmaster.com/index.php?cPath=4_23_26 Is that actually Muntons? The labels look like they say Munton's Spraymalt but the labels look different than the Muntons sold on Northern Brewer for example, like this: http://www.northernbrewer.com/shop/brewing/brewing-ingredients/malt-extract/dry-malt-extract/munton-s-dme-amber.html Are they the same thing or different? Thanks!
  13. +1 on the Slimline. I use 3/8" tubing that I got from Lowe's for about $2 total and use that to rack from the LBK to the Slimline. Then I use the bottling wand to bottle from the Slimline. I can confirm that the bottling wand will fit in the Slimline spigot. Just slowly twist the bottling wand as you insert it into the spigot and it will fit. I just bottled my 5th batch tonight and I've used this setup for all 5 batches and its worked great. Make sure you loosen the Slimline cover or take it off while you bottle -- otherwise, the beer flow will slow and eventually stop.
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